kb1gra

Brian, I'm not the OP but I have a situation and I'm wondering your thoughts. Have put in an accepted offer of $300k. Home appraisal for mortgage came in at $590k. The purchase is a unique situation in that it is being sold by an estate which was running out of money to support it. There was very little interest in the property so they accepted a low offer as they couldn't wait forever. Are you saying that even with a $590k appraisal from the bank's appraiser, the max 100% value loan would be for the purchase price? I need at least a $100k equity line to purchase equipment and do renovations. We were relying on the appraisal meaning we could get 70% of 590, or 442k, minus the first mortgage of $150k. If that isn't true it dramatically changes our plans. Thank you.

FYI, some banks and credit unions do this automatically. Navy Federal will reduce your payment and/or move your payoff date if you pay ahead on your loan, and will also move your due date out. So if you made a lump sum payment of $10k it would reamortize without action from you. My payment started at $301 and is now like $241 and my next payment due date is next july sometime, and my payoff date moved up 6 months.

DCU has kept me stuck at $2000 since 2006. And I've been a member for 14 years. They want me to reapply and reage my account to get any more money, and it's my oldest card so I can't afford to. What is your credit situation? The reason I asked the OP is because it's always hard to tell if people have reasonable expectations. DCU approved me for $7500 about 2 and a half years post BK7. I have decent income and very little debt these days, but my scores were only in the high 600s/low 700s at the time. I would probably be a little disappointed with $2000 too after 14 years (assuming your income and history justify a better limit). My local CU that I've been with for 14 years or so still won't approve me for an unsecured card. I had cards with them before BK that were closed before I filed (so never IIB), I've had auto loans with them with perfect history, and I had a secured card with them starting on my discharge date until I closed it a couple of months ago. I've never made a late payment, bounced a check, or made waves at all with them, but they do not want to give me an unsecured CC for whatever reason. So... I'll just let them stick to what they are good at - checking and billpay. And when we move out of the area they will be kicked to the curb. EQ Fico as of last week, 712. Income 78k, never made a late payment in my life, have DD with them. Have $15k with navy, $15.5k with chase (sapphire preferred), $10k with Discover, Amex Plat, $7500 with Barclays (US Airways). Score is low because I had some high util for business expenses post, and have made a couple recent apps/plus I'm only 25 so my overall age isn't that good. There's no reason for them to give me toy limits other than to annoy me. They closed my card about 2 years ago in an act of AA after I PAID OFF a bunch of cards with a sign on bonus of $20k. Then when they saw how much money I was flushing through they decided to "graciously reopen" my $2000 account. I don't even know where the card is, I'm not giving them my time after that. I'm debating them for a car loan but the credit card thing still pisses me off.

DCU has kept me stuck at $2000 since 2006. And I've been a member for 14 years. They want me to reapply and reage my account to get any more money, and it's my oldest card so I can't afford to.

While I agree with much of what you said, I can't agree with this as it's factually wrong. Visa interchange effective June 2012: It's not guaranteed for every business, but many businesses are charged higher interchange for Visa rewards cards vs. standard Visa cards. It's also nowhere near 5-20% (unless the transaction size is insanely small.) I worked for multiple retailers that used authorize.net and I can confirm that the billing statements do not distinguish between card types. As of 2009, last time I worked there, it was $21/mo for the terminal, 10 cents per transaction, and a .25 batch fee daily at the end of the night. Authorize pays the interchange fees and their negotiated rate is lower than what was published above.

If you're a member with Alliant and that frustrated with DCU, why continue leaving your checking with DCU when Alliant's is very much a superior product? It's really easy to move the money over there, so there's really not much being "too lazy" to switch. And you're probably costing yourself a bit of money by keeping your checking in a non-interest bearing checking account. exactly. over the past few years, however, DCU has had some of the highest APY for certificates. I have several CDs with it but no checking. the FREE FICO score is probably worth most perceptions of maltreatment. Part of the laziness includes: needing to get new checks printed, as I still write several personal checks per month and online bill pay takes too long for some things (I keep horses and the farrier/vet does not want their check in a week, etc) and that my parents accounts are linked and I transfer money to their accounts regularly to help support them-- it is much easier for the money to just appear immediately in their account versus them having to cash a check or wait for an ACH. I also manage some of their accounts so I'm online and doing transactions with DCU nearly daily anyway so it's just easier to leave my checking there after all these years. I don't even remember my login with alliant-- they are not local so I can't deposit any money with them unless it's direct deposit so I never got into using them.

DCU has been really bad to me in the past-- engaging in AA, etc and I've been a member for 13 years now, since way before they went national. In 2010, they decided they would close my card because I had recently PAID OFF a number of other cards. I had something like a $200 balance. It was my oldest card. I was pissed at them and I let that balance sit and paid $15 a month on it because I was irritated with them. Well, lo and behold, I get a Navy card with a $15k limit and a car loan with Navy, and suddenly DCU has decided they want my money again and has graciously decided to reinstate my account, which was a measly $2000 line that I'd had since I was 18. They want me to reapply for any increases. I'm still not giving them any money; I have my checking with them solely because it's been like that for 13 years and I'm too lazy to change. They can take their toy limit and stick it where the sun don't shine after treating a longtime customer that way, like $2000 was so risky for them to have outstanding for someone with a 724 credit score. Screw them...I'll take alliant's cashback and my marriott rewards for all my business spend. They can stuff it. I wish my parents had moved their business from them as well-- they would have really felt the burn with 3 mortgages, 2 business lines of credit, and several credit cards pulled from them all over a $2000 credit card.

So, I am thinking purely in a hypothetical sense here-- what happens to someone whose relative is deceased and whose records of military service would have been destroyed in the archives fire sometime in the 70s? Basic service information has been recovered but details of service and separation is gone forever for roughly 75% of Air Force records for those discharged between September 1947 and January 1964. Thus, someone who is related to one of those relatives has no reasonable way to obtain a DD214 unless their relative happened to retain their original one from the 1950s. I have multiple family members who are retired air force (including a living uncle) but my grandfather's records are a known loss. I guess I'll just hang tight. I joined in Jan 2010 and have heard nothing.

I was approved instantly online for the Chase Marriott Premier Rewards (I think it's a VISA signature). When I call the application status, it says I will be notified of the decision by mail in 2 weeks. Does this card not have a credit limit? How do I know what I can spend if not? I plan to use for business travel of $4000/mo or so in Marriott stays so it is important to know how much I can spend.

To the best of my knowledge DCU will finance a salvage title. However, as the owner of a 2008 IS250 that is loaded and worth maybe $22k private party I would say he is not getting that great a deal. I'll sell him mine with a clean title and 45k miles since these vehicles have an engine defect that causes them to stall/refuse to start. Lexus says the only fix is to scrub crap out of the engine every 20k miles. Hope he is aware of what he is buying because I am trying to get out of mine.

It appears on most monitoring sites as "length of credit history" or you can use the date of your oldest account. Also, I imagine if you make 65-75k a month you would have no problem getting financed. I would think most lenders would think $780k a year is plenty to get financed for a $55k car.

I'm with Navy, but not near a branch. I was going to app through them first and see if they'd give me the 1.79%. I can go in person to DCU if needed, I've banked with them for a very long time, but their rates aren't as good and they've been stingy with me in the past.

No previous auto loans. Always bought cash. There's a $4000 installment loan, paid in full never late, from 2007-2009. Also, have a total of $43,000 in revolving credit limits though I know that doesn't count. I could potentially increase the down payment to about $3000 if needed to get the deal done at a promo APR.

Credit Application: Your Age? 24 Your Equifax Credit Score? 708 Your Experian Credit Score? 729 Your TransUnion Credit Score? 731 How many years have you been on file with Equifax? 7yrs 8 mos How many years have you been on file with Experian? 7yrs 8 mos How many years have you been on file with TransUnion? 7 yrs 8 mos YOUR PREVIOUS AUTOMOTIVE CREDIT HISTORY Do you have an open auto loan? No. Will this open auto loan be a trade-in? No How many late pays within the last 12 months on the currently open loan? N/A How many late pays within the last 13-24 months on the currently open loan? N/A Your current open auto loan is financed with? N/A Your current open auto loan payment is? N/A Estimated amount you may be upside down in this vehicle? N/A Rate your payment history on this open auto loan from 1-10 (1=poor:10=Best) N/A YOUR REVOLVING CREDIT HISTORY Total number of revolving account(s) you have? 11 Total percentage utilized overall? 13% How many of your revolving accounts are store cards? 1 How many of your revolving accounts are major credit cards? (i.e. Amex, MC, Visa) 10 How many of your revolving accounts are known subprime credit cards (i.e. Aspire, 1st Premier) 0 YOUR PERSONAL INFORMATION How long at your current residence? less than 1 yr Do you Rent or have a Mortgage, or Live w/Relative or Other? Live with relative Your Monthly Rent or Mortgage payment? $650 (boyfriend pays mortgage, I pay all household bills) How long have you held your current job? 7 months Your total provable monthly gross income is? $4134 Your provable monthly gross income is provable via what method? (i.e. computerized paycheck stub, or tax return) Paystubs Is there additional monthly income? What amount monthly? No. Describe the source. Is the additional monthly income provable? No. Spousal income is not applicable. YOUR DOWNPAYMENT Please tell me your exact down payment in cash? (rebates and trade equity are not considered, please input a dollar value only.) $1000 Does any credit repository contain any Public Record? No. If yes, please very briefly describe. Does any credit repository contain any Collection Account(s)? No. If yes, please very briefly describe. Please rate your overall creditworthiness on a scale of 1-10 (1=poor, 10= best) 8 Please rate your Installment credit history on a scale of 1-10 (1=poor, 10=best) 10 (I have student loans, monthly payment $130, never late) Please rate your Revolving credit history on a scale of 1-10 (1=poor, 10=best) 9 (never late, short history) New or Used vehicle you are considering: Please very briefly describe. 2012 model Mazda3, MSRP $26,500. Currently own a 2008 Lexus IS250 free and clear, however will be selling privately and purchasing with $1000 down on the new car.

The language in the original post from Consumerist makes me feel like this poster is 14 years old. Her "Sweet?" Watching Sesame Street? It all just seems like a troll post.