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Hello good folks,
 
Background: last October, Comcast locked my account because *a stranger* (mistakenly) paid for it with a credit card, and later disputed the charge with their credit card company and did a chargeback. Comcast made it so I couldn't use any type of credit/debit cards to pay. It took some give months to even expose this issue, as agents didn't know why my account was locked. I cancelled my account but they still wouldn't let me pay. Eventually, they sent it to collections, which very promptly hit my credit history with a "Collections" derogratory record.
 
Unfortunate timing, because I'm in the market right now for a mortgage. Without this note, my credit history is close to perfect, with FICO8 of 835+, and VantageScore3 of 810+.  With this, the scores drop to about 710 and 760 respectively. Meaning, either mortgage denial or higher interest rate, leading to huge sums wasted.
 
My questions are:
1) What is the best way to get this rectified and get this record off my history?  
            - Is it possible to do a "pay for delete"?  
            - Should I be talking to Comcast or to the collections agency?  
            - Is there something I need to to in the interim, like disputing the record?  
            - What would be the fastest way to deal with this? Ideally, I want to apply for a mortgage in the next week if possible. If not possible, in the next 3-8 weeks.  
 
2) Are there particular mortgage lenders that use a more favorable scoring so this one single negative record doesn't hurt my mortgage rate?  
            - My understanding is, FICO8 has this 120+ point drop for the first negative record, while other scores (like VantageScore3) doesn't drop so dramatically. Is this correct?
 
Thank you very much in advance.

So my DH had a Citi/Best Buy card that was charged off in 2017. After beginning our credit repair process, I noticed the account was reporting the payment history inaccurately on Equifax and Experian. We disputed many times, then ended up suing them for FCRA violations. They settled the case by forgiving the debt and deleting the account from all reports.
 
But now they’re back! In 2020, they sent us a 1099-C for an amount just a little bit shy of the balance. I believe it was just the principal balance, which amounted to $4,600. Well, as you know, it’s tax season. And who decides to send us another 1099-C for the same account/debt? Titty bank. They put the full amount of the debt this time; which was about $600 more than the first 1099-C they sent.
 
I have consulted my lawyer because it seems illegal for them to write off the same debt twice. He has advised we should sue them again. While I’m sure we can win the case, litigation and settlement takes about a year to do, based on our past experiences. It ended up costing us an extra $1,200 in taxes this year. What do y’all think? Should we spend more time and effort on this situation? I’m pretty sure Titty also violated terms in our settlement agreement for the FCRA case as well, in regards to them not pursuing further collection activity.
 
Any advice would be appreciated.

I have come across a credit topic involving data point information that concerns AmEx's D* policy (which no longer exists) which triggered and raises an important question that may be of interest to anyone who has an AmEx credit card in their relationship history with AmEx.

This is to give credit and courtesy to an excerpt from the @cashnocredit post...
 
 
"I had an Amex in 1974, which closed in the early 80s. Opened a new one in 2011 but they didn't backdate me then. Had no record of it (which was always paid on time)."
 
Question? 
 
Does AmEx have all your previous applications and cards approved and store all positive and negative data indefinitely?
 

I decided to continue another year of my glorified spreadsheet. 2022 was a disappointment in the shenanigans dept. Most of the dive hotels I stay at did remodels during the pandemic. Not too many WTH moments. Disciplining myself to go under 5/24, allowed me to add a Chase CSP and CFU to the mix in 2022. The various dumpster dive apps I use paid off. To the tune of about $2000 in value.
 
Inflation being what it is, I'm more hyper sensitive than ever on what spend goes on what card, to maximize spend multipliers.
 
Credit Cards:
Amex Gold & Every Day MR 441,390
Amex Delta SkyMiles 205,415
Citi MileUp MC American Airlines 69,345
FNBO Amtrak Guest Rewards MC 135,948
Chase CSP / CFU Signature Visa UR 101,559
Chase IHG Traveler MC 66,064
BofA Customized Cash Rewards Visa (3% Travel) $0.88
Citi Double Cash MC (2% CB / TYP Everything) 21,186
Citi Premier MC Thank You Points 34,280
Choice Privileges Visa Signature 360,660
WF Active Cash Signature Visa (2% CB Everything) $87.44
 
Shopping Portals and Apps / Stacking Opportunities:
DOSH (CB) $18.56
Rakuten Amex MR Earning. Pays out quarterly. Points Pending: 6857
Fetch Rewards (GC) 27,439 Points
Ibotta (CB or GC) $7.65
Upside (CB or GC) $14.15
CoinOut (CB or GC) $8.65
Payce (CB) $18.97
Receipt Hog (CB or GC) 3156 Coins
Receipt Jar (GC) 2013 Points
Receipt Pal (GC) 4725 Points
Shell Fuel Rewards (Earning AA Miles 2miles/gal.)
Starbucks / Delta SkyMiles (Earn 1 SkyMile for every $1 spent at Starbucks)
AA Simply Miles
Airline / Hotel Dining and Shopping Portals
 
 

Hi Everyone!
 
I have one last bad account, unfortunately a repo, that is still on my Experian and Equifax reports. Before Experian changed their report format, at some point last year the repo account said "on report until April 2023." Well, it's April and it's still showing. Could it be until the END of April? Would it be worth calling Experian's backdoor number and asking about it? Maybe sweet talking them to delete it early? lol
 
What do you guys think? In comparison, this account was scheduled to drop off my Transunion report in January and was gone in December. Equifax is the worst and it show dropping from the report in July. 
 
Thanks guys!

Is it true that navy federal doesn’t have an option to pay for the principal of loan as an option? They said once you get an auto loan through navy federal that it won’t let you just pay the principal when you put extra money towards it but that the extra payment will go towards the interest,

Coupla months ago I caved and added that "CapitalOne Shopping" extension to my Chrome browser.  It scours the interwebz for discount & promo codes you might not know are out there for websites you're shopping at.  Most of the ones it finds are expired or otherwise inapplicable, but it has found at least one that saved me $20 when I was buying nutrition supplements from Garden of Life.
 
Also there was a limited-time offer last week for 30% cash back at CVS.com.  I scored ibuprofen 500-count ($5.60 off because CarePass), Sundown fish oil 300-count (buy 1 get one for 99¢ but they do that so often with Sundown that they may as well just cop to having marked up the price 100% the rest of the time), for $52.40, and just now got the confirming email from C1 that they are indeed processing my fifteen yes FIFTEEN DAMN DOLLARS cash back.
 
Maybe these cards o' theirs (mine are both $0 annual fee) aren't as useless as we thought...
 

Long story short! I got a call from a debt collector saying that I owe $4K for a default back in 2006 due to bad decisions I made. 
 
Caught me off guard, last month i got a call from a debt collector enquiring about the debt I owe. I inadvertently told me that i had an identity theft and resolved it with bank , but got to know I was wrong (I had a similar named credit card from a credit union and had a identity theft a few year ago and i thought the call was from them trying to resolve.) 
 
The lady said they have a judgement against me in PA and when i searched the courts public record, indeed there is an open judgement since 2007.  Now they care calling me relentlessly. 
 
Any suggestions for me?

I'm just getting started on dealing with a medical bill that I was lied to about from the start and was told I wouldn't have to pay because it was a "preventive" procedure. Then I received a bill after the fact of $1,910. What happened was the doctor sent biopsies to an out-of-network lab without telling me, so that lab billed me. They lied and that's why I didn't pay for it. Now it's been turned over to a collection agency and just showed up on all 3 credit bureaus as an "open account" collection under the collection agency's name.   The collection agency is not an in-house collection department of the medical provider. My credit score is over 800, so I do pay all my bills on time and always have. But I refuse to pay this bill. I have good reason to believe the collection agency has violated several FDCPA laws. I could hardly understand the collection agent who called me a few weeks ago. She almost sounded drunk or like she was eating while talking to me. She definitely did not know what she was doing. As unprofessional as you can get. I told her I didn't know who she or her company was and I don't owe them any money. She couldn't even tell me who the original creditor was. I told her to call me back when she figured that out and hung up on her. Never heard back.  

So I know NFCU blacklists you if you BK them off or don't pay off a charge-off. It appears that I have an unofficial blacklist even after they have been made whole. 
 
In Sept 2019 we ended up defaulting on a bunch of things. Specifically for NFCU they repoed a vehicle with $6k owed which they cross collateralized and got all their money at the time. I defaulted on an NFCU card for $24k. I kept two CLOC's for $15k a piece. They are still in good standing with a zero balance. 
 
Recently I paid off the NFCU card in full in January as I wanted to get back in their good graces. 
 
So to recap:
Car Loan- repo, PIF
CC- Chargeoff- PIF
CLOC - $0 balance, good standing
CLOC- $0 balance, good standing
 
My current status is 621 score (Experian) through their credit score monitoring. My income is just shy of $500k, although I only run about $200k in direct deposit through NFCU. I have $30k in cash in different accounts at NFCU. $5k in savings. I tried the pre-approval page and it listed basically everything. But I wanted to play it safe and just use their secured card which graduates anyway and I'm not in a huge hurry. Insta denied. 
 
I don't know what else I have to do, everything is paid off, and paid in full. I didn't BK. I don't owe them a single penny, and I have multiple accounts in good standing. 
 
Any ideas? Should I call to get it reconned? 
 
Thanks!
 
P.S.- On a side note, would BOA be a good second choice for a secured card? I did burn them for a $11k card, which they got every penny back through a garnishment. So they are paid in full. I run the other $300k of income through BOA, so I know we've got a pretty good status there. We probably have roughly $50k with them. 
 
My credit report has a bunch I burned in 2019. I paid them all off in full in late 2022/2023. I still have 10 year old credit cards that I didn't burn Capital One, Discover and Barclays. Scores range from 610-621. 

Hello, its been a while since I've been on here but my boyfriend has never had any loans nor credit cards at 42.  And he finally went to finance his leased car and they gave him a 17% interest rate because he literally had no score. So I want to help build his credit using first the authorized user option and then a cc of his own. 
 
Is there a pinned topic all about Authorized Users?  Pros and Cons etc??  I read that somewhere but I can't find it. 

I had an old Chase credit card with date of first default 11/2016. It shows it was charged off 4/2019 so I have 9 months before it falls off. 
 
I'm currently with Chase with perfect payment history since I opened the card 10/2022 and use it everyday. 
 
Can I request to have them remove this from my reports being that I have a current card with them? I had done a settlement with them. If I can request to remove this, how do I do this (call them, write them)?
 
This is the last thing on my credit reports that is derogatory for the last 7 years. 

I bought a car from Carvana in 2019 and the entire buying experience was exactly what Carvana claims it is. It was a breeze and the best car buying experience I have ever had by a LOT.
 
Fast forward to 2022……wow things have changed……
 
I ended up trading in the original car and Carvana took possession of that vehicle in May 2022. I then spent the next five months living in Carvana hell where they literally screwed up EVERY step in the process. I spent countless hours on the phone screaming and yelling for EVERY step. The first two cars had problems and I gave them back. I finally kept the third car but the whole process was still a nightmare from beginning to end. While dealing with all of the chaos, I didn’t realize that Carvana never paid off my original loan. It just went unpaid until I realized the error in November 2022. After some more screaming on the phone it was finally paid in December 2022.
 
Now I have six months of late payments for a loan that shouldn’t have been open. I disputed but it came back verified which is what I expected.
 
How should I deal with this? Technically, from the car loan company perspective, those payments were late. Should I be asking Carvana to work this out with the car loan company?
 
The thought of another six months on the phone with these people is making me nauseous.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello:
 
I have a question about delinquent credit card accounts which were ultimately charged off.
 
Quick background:  
- Due to a contested divorce, I ended up racking up a great amount of legal fees which were charged on credit cards.   
- Fast forward, I enrolled several credit cards into a “credit card relief” program from which I successfully “graduated” a little more than a year ago.
 
At this point in time, I have a question with respect to when the accounts will be removed from my credit reports.   I am aware about the 7-year rule from the first delinquency date.    However, I’ve come across additional information which might further extend the drop-off date(s).
 
Allow me to provide two examples…
 
Credit Card #1:
-    1st late payment occurred in 05/2017.
-    Account remained late from that point forward.
-    Settlement agreement was reached in 11/2017.
-    Single payment was made and account was “legally paid in full for less than the full balance" in 11/2017.
-    Thus, the drop-off date is estimated to be 11/2024.
 
Credit Card #9:
-    1st late payment occurred in 07/2017.
-    Account remained late from that point forward.
-    Settlement agreement was reached in 01/2018.
-    Monthly payments (between Jan/May 2018) were made and account was “legally paid in full for less than the full balance" in 05/2018.
-    Thus, the drop-off date is estimated to be either a) 07/2024 OR b) 01/2025.
 
My question:  For the 2nd example (i.e., credit card #9) could you please verify what’s the correct drop-off date?   Is it either 07/2024 or 01/2025?
 
Thank you,
TB
 

Chase recently sent me offers to settle for less than owed on 2 cards I had with them. One is settling a $1,600 card for 406$ and one is a $7,600 card for $1,900. they are 3 years charged off. If I pay them off will it help my scores even though it’ll show paid for less than owed? Will it make it easier to dispute to attempt delete after payment of the debt. And last but not least will they send me a 1099c trying to tax me on the amount I saved from original debt? I live in Texas if that matters. Tia

Chase Sapphire Preferred gave me 2 years of FREE DoorDash delivery.
 
I got an email from Chase today stating, Your Chase Sapphire Preferred card now comes with a new restaurant delivery
benefit. As a cardmember, you can now get a complimentary DashPass, DoorDash's subscription service, for a minimum
of one year (normally a $9.99 a month). DashPass provides unlimited deliveries from thousands of restaurants nationwide
for a $0 delivery fee on DoorDash orders over $12 (other fees may apply). Activate by December 31, 2021.
 
Below that an "Unlock Benefits" clickable button.
 
I clicked it, signed into my DoorDash account (there was also a "create account" link too). After logging in it asked me to add my
Chase card as my default payment method. I did and then it stated that I had FREE DashPass until December 2021.
 
 

On recommendation from an acquaintance, I opened an account last month at CIT and moved most of my liquid savings there.

PROS:
4.05% APY
money moves decently quick once your accounts are linked (always send from the current bank, if you request from CIT, it takes an additional week to clear).
Compounds daily, credits monthly
No monthly maintenance fees
No minimum balance that I am aware of

CONS:
For an online-only bank, their IT department sucks.  The app is horrible and when it tells you "Authentication required," you have to uninstall and re-install the app on your phone.  I've already had to reinstall it twice, and I opened the account just over a month ago.
Customer service is almost non-existent.  When I called them, the system said about 23 minutes.  It then let me get in the queue for a call back.  38 minutes later, I got a call and the computer told me I was next in line.  I then proceeded to sit on hold for another 63 minutes.  I asked the agent if she was the only one answering phones, she said no.  She said she had no idea why it said 23 minutes nor why it told me I was next in line over an hour prior.

I guess they put all their money into returns and not IT or CS.

...and just turned me down for a savings account.
 

Is payment technology convincing you to over-tip?
 
It's not convincing me. I've said it before. Turning an iPAD in my direction, with you watching is not going to guilt trip me into changing my practices of how I tip.
 
 

Hi. I have multiple charge-offs on my credit reports. My credit has been derogatory since summer 2018. I have a little over 2 years remaining before all the negative items will completely be removed from my credit reports.
 
I would like to know whether I should apply for a secured credit like Opensky now or if I should apply for an unsecured credit card such as Credit One. Or, should I apply for both types. My goal is to rebuild my credit and start out by building new credit history with some "rebuilding" credit cards types.
 
Thank you for your assistance here.

I haven't been around for a while. but, actually I have, just under a different SN.
 
dice727 is actually me. (in case you missed it, the thread is here: https://creditboards.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=567281)
 
yes, for the many doubters, sadly everything posted in that thread is real. I posted under an alias with mom's permission because I had some pending legal issues and this account could possibly be tracked back to me.
 
so now 18 months later, all that's been resolved, I received my Chapter 7 discharge in June and am working on rebuilding my credit.
 
since I IIB'd pretty much every major creditor around and most of the good CUs, rebuilding is going to be an interesting process.
 
current snapshot:
FICO08s are EX 584, EQ 606, TU 573.
 
I have no personal revolving accounts open right now. I didn't reaffirm the mortgage, so that's not open either. I do have open student loans. I am an AU on one open Ann Taylor account of my wife from 2003 with no balance and $3650 CL. I do still have some older paid/closed accounts on my report which helps my AAOA along with the student loans.
 
going to use this thread to keep track of progress and notes.
 
feel free to interject any advice if you think there's something I should/shouldn't do! I rebuilt many years ago from a bunch of CO accounts, but pretty much just waited until 7 years passed and everything fell off before starting to rebuild. so this is new territory for me.

Well, I just got one of the better scam emails. An email direct from Paypal for an invoice I never authorized. And yet, it had my actual name and the originating address was paypal.com
 
Don't be fooled. Like the guy in this article, I called the number on the email after first logging in and verifying the phony invoice was pending. It became obvious the guy I was talking to was feeding a line of crap designed to scare me while he had little info other than the ph. no. I used to call him. Hung up.
 
So, a little searching and guess what. Found this:
 
This PayPal invoice scam almost got me. Here's how to spot it - Elliott Report
 
Pretty much an exact match! Annoying pieces of excrement.
 
 

Tried again for a CLI with Apple.  Here’s the Dear Jane email I received:
 
Goldman Sachs Bank USA could not approve your request for a credit limit increase because:
You have not used and paid enough of your Apple Card credit limit since your last credit limit increase  
Goldman Sachs Bank USA received your credit score from TransUnion Consumer Solutions.
Your credit score is a number that reflects the information in your consumer report. Your credit score can change, depending on how the information in your consumer report changes.
Your credit score (TransUnion FICO® Score 9) as of December 19, 2022:
825
Credit scores range from a low of 300 to a high of 850.
 
‘Have a decent line in excess of 20K, pay down every month before balance posts. It would seem odd if the algorithms think I’m not running anything through the card. Usual monthly spend is $1,200 or so. 
 
As an aside, TU FICO 8 is 817. 
 
Can’t figure out why I keep getting rejected. 

Long story short
 
I have $200,000+ in personal Loans and Credit Card Debt. I am about to stop paying and let them default in March. 
 
All the personal loans are new debt and are 6 months old. The credit card I have had for awhile. 
 
I got screwed trying to start a new business, and can't afford to pay these back. I make $78k a year. 

I have access to $150k cash
I don't own a home
 
Here are my debts
Wells Fargo Credit Card $15k
Wells Fargo Personal Loan $40k
Sofi Personal Loan $70k
Amex Personal Loan $9,500
Laurel Road Personal Loan $30k
Lightstream Personal Loan $20k
Discover Personal Loan $35k

I am trying to avoid chapter 13 bankruptcy. 
 
So my questions are..., based on your experiences, do you think I'll be able to settle all these debts with my $150,000? Or will they not budge since the debt is so new?
 
Will they just sue me right away and only take the full amount? 
 
Will they consider this fraud because the debt is only 6 months old? 
 
Please let me know what y'all think. Thanks!  
 
PS. Please don't judge, my life is ruined for awhile so I am looking for serious help. 

Happy Credit New Year!