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Hello, I've been playing with my cc debt for a while now. I've opened new 0% accounts as suggested on these threads. When the 0% is over I transfer it to another one with 0%, accounts that I already have open. Now with the situation that we are all in, it's going to be a little tougher to pay more than close to the minimums. We owe a total of $25k, I've also worked with my DH's available credit for the 0% cards. 
I am so tired of this debt! Our credit is good over 700's. I've thought about a personal loan since we receive lots of promotions on these, are these loans personally guaranteed? 
Years ago they weren't but so much has changed. 
Thank you for all the suggestions. 
 

First thank you for all the knowledge posted here, I have followed CB off and on for over 10 years. 
 
So here is me current credit Pic and I don't know what approach to take... except getting credit one and the AT&T charge offs removed.
Once I receive me new unsecured Cap 1 I'm hoping that gives me a score bump because I really don't have any open accounts as you can see. Discover said no to their secured card 😢 I have been a member of NFCU since 97 but my account is dormant just need to deposit money in savings to make active. But I was thinking I need to wait until I clean up my TU and bring scores up before trying for their secured card.
 
I'm assuming the student loans are hurting me but didn't want to contact them until I got better guidance from you all. 
I could desperately use some guidance from you all
 
 
Fico 8 eports & scores as of March 10 
 
Experian 558
Citibank AU $6500 limit $4977 =76% usage  - 9 years old never late - I disputed this account due to usage being high and it was removed- no change to my score 
Belk AU $9000 limit $1666 balance = 20% usage- 20 years old never late
Care Credit AU$4000 limit $0 -no usage - 8 years old never late 
Sears - closed AU no negatives 
 
CarMax paid closed $19,117 -opened 4/14 closed 7/15
 
Acendium student loan 44 lates CO $2872 updated 8/16
EDSOUTH student loan 10 lates CO $1750 account transferred to another office last update 8/16
EDU SERV OF AMER student loan CO $1984 account transferred to another office last update 12/14
FED LOAN SERV- closed exceptional payment history 5/15
GLESI/ Bank of America -closed exceptional payment history 2/12
 US DEPT ED/ GSLI closed CO $1017 seriously past due last updated 2/20
US DEP OF EDU/ GSLI closed CO $2701 seriously past due updaye2/2020
 
Inquiries 
Cap1 3/20 - unsecured card $300 limit in mail 
Discover 3/20 - declined secured card 
 
 
TU 509
Belk - same 
Care credit - same 
CreditOne -paid- closed unkown payment history -CO bad debt updated 1/17 
Discover -same
Sears-same
NFCU AU- closed updated 5/23 $20k limit exceptional payment history 
 
Carmax-same
All the same student loan info 
 
Collection 
AT&T  Mobility $1206  collection opened 9/18 updated 2/20
 
Inquiries Cap 1
 
 
EQ 535 
Citibank same 
Belk- same 
Care credit same 
Creditone same 
Discover same 
NFCU SAME 
 
CarMax same 
Credit union atl $3803 CO auto- opened 4/11 CO 12/14 - consumer disputes 
 
EDSOUTH GLESI SAME 
EDUC SERV AMER same 
FED LOAN SERV same 
FED LOAN SERV same 
US DEPT EDUC same 
US DEPT EDUC same
 
Inquiries 
Cap1 same  

Well as most of us know, BofA if nothing else, is at least fairly generous with their soft pull CLI requests on a regular six month basis. It has also been well established that BofA has a de facto MAX aggregate unsecured credit card limit of $99.9K for most mortals, however IIRC both Hege and PotO have exceeded this.
 
So my question pertains to MAX aggregate BofA unsecured credit card limits in relation to total income so that we can set better/more realistic goals and expectations with BofA and not waste our efforts in pursuing limits beyond the BofA underwriting paradigm.
 
My aggregate limits are just a fraction below 50% of total income, so how far should we push this?
 
 

So my ob office just called me back because I had a health question. The nurse told me I was due for an ultrasound but that they can’t schedule it because I’m in collections for $234. First, I had no idea we were past due but I’m not happy my nurse and probably my ob have access to my financial info. I feel like this could impact my care. I get being deactivated and not being able to schedule because of being past due. But the billing office should be the only one who has that info. If I called in, the receptionist should be the one to say they can’t schedule me until I talk to billing. It feels like a violation of privacy for the nurse to know bc it could impact how they see me and thus, how they care for me. Are drs and nurses allowed to know the billing info? 

Hello, I filed bankruptcy in 2016. Since then I haven't really done much to take care of my credit. Stupid, I know. The main issue I've had is running high balances but I recently pulled my credit reports to see if there was anything else going on. I found two medical collections on my report from after bankruptcy. However, I'm almost positive the services are from before my bankruptcy. For one of the accounts it reports on Experian as IIB with no balance but on Transunion it reports as active with a balance. I tried disputing it via credit karma but transunion came back saying it was accurate and now there's a note on it saying it meets FCRA (see attached image). 
 
For the other account I'm almost positive it was also a service from before bankruptcy. What's the best process to go about confirming this info? Should I send a debt validation or dispute it with the CRAs? I worry that won't do anything because it didn't help with the other case. 

Hello, this is my first post.  I’ve spent time reading some recommended posts from “start here” but some of it became a little confusing/overwhelming so hopefully I’ve read enough to make my first post.  
 
I first used one of my free annual credit reports in 2016 through Experian and the following information was reported negatively:
 
 
1) 60 days late as of Oct 2013
status: paid, closed. 
 
2) 60 days late as of Sept 2013
status: transferred, closed. 
 
3) Debt collector date opened 9/2014
Status: past due 
 
4) with an old bank account I had a few 30-day late months but was then current and it was never 60 days late.  The last time I was late was Nov 2012.  My account closed in 2014.
Status: paid, closed. 
 
5) sent to collections
collections opened 8/2012
status: past due as of 2015
 
6) sent to collections
Collections opened 8/2013
Status: past due as of 2015
 
7) Past due as of 11/2012
 
8) past due 12/2012
 
9) paid in settlement. last reported 7/2014
10) paid in settlement. last reported 7/2014
11) paid in settlement. last reported 7/2014
 
12) as of June 2011:  transferred, closed
 
 
I used Experian again in 2019 for an updated report.  I likely need some help finding the updated information please.   I printed my report in 2019 and it looks a lot different and it’s shorter.  
 
my current credit score as of today is 672 according to Experian. 
 
I met my figure husband in 2014 and he has helped me a bit but we don’t know all the right answers.  He has a high credit score and since we’ve been married he’s added me as an additional signer on his two credit cards.  We keep our usage of available credit low, usually around 10% and we pay in full every month.  I believe this has helped my rating climb from in the 500s to where it is now.  
 
QUESTION 1)
Now that my score is above 670, would it be helpful if I applied for my own credit card, and linked it to our bank account to pay in full every month, or do I get the exact same credit benefit form being added onto his cards?
 
QUESTION 2)
I read information on this form discussing the removal of old addresses.  I have two old addresses on my account.  I left both prior to 2014.  
On this same topic I have 2 old phone numbers linked to my account. 
I assume I need to keep all of my names (madden names, with and without middle initials Etc) but there’s one name listed for me as Alii not Ali, should that be removed too?

QUESTION 3)
I just looked at my free Annual report from Experian in 2019.  Should I use one of the other 2 soon and see what those reports say? 
 
QUESTION 4)
where should I go from here.  How am I to begin repairing past credit?  I’ve been solid the last half decade so moving forward things will be ok, i’m just still dealing with the past.  Maybe all I can do is wait until enough time passes but I’d be grateful for any advice. 
 

Even when you win you lose
 
 
https://www.propublica.org/article/why-your-health-insurer-does-not-care-about-your-big-bills

Hi, this is my first post here as I'm kind of stuck in a situation and need help. After moving out from my previous apartment in Indiana, I forgot to pay the electric bill (Duke Energy) for the final month which I did not realize until 4 days ago when I saw a collections record on my credit report. Now I did not receive any communication from the CA or OC regarding the debt until I saw the CR. I have not yet talked to either the CA or OC, but I’m more than willing to pay the whole debt amount ASAP, but would like to get the collections record removed from my CR. I’m a foreign national and do not know much about such processes, but I don’t want a near $100 debt stain my credit score for years to come. I have read some of the discussions in this forum on this topic, and understand that I should first talk to the OC and get the debt settled. What I'm not clear about is what steps I should undertake after that. I would highly appreciate if someone could guide me with this or share their personal experiences in such situations. Thanks for helping out!

Anyone have a recent account freeze because of fraud or involuntary account closure?
I still get emails from individuals who experience fraud or an account closure, which prevents them from accessing funds.
 
I have been posting this since - probably - 2007, and I still get contacted about it.
By now, I sound like a broken record, but here it is:
 
1)  Don't keep all your funds in one financial institution.
2)  Have a primary household account (Just for monthly/quarterly bills).
3)  Keep a separate account or debit card for point-of-sale and internet purchases.
4)  Split your direct deposit (if possible) between different accounts.
5)  Maintain a savings or checking (for emergencies only).
 
Recent email was from a business colleague who had her credit union account frozen on a Friday, because someone attempted a large debit card purchase.
Because of the recent banking holiday, she wasn't able to access funds until she went to the CU on Tuesday.
My suggestion was the list above.
 
 

Hello

I have about 140k in credit card debt which turned to 20+ interest after a couple of years of zero credit. 
Another 45k in student debt
FICO 2 is 732. Credit Karma etc are about 600 due to high debt. No derogs. All clean - long history - good mix of credit.
Have not paid uncle sam on my 1099 this year. About 19k.
Now the contract is over. I get to choose between credit card bills and food. 

- Do I call the credit card companies and tell them?
- Do I cut all the payments to credit card companies as they are due around the 10th of the month?

Am trying desperately to get a home equity loan to pay it all off. I have a good amount of equity and can pay off that loan through gig economy jobs (lyft, uber) until I get a new contract. it is even possible that I will get this contract back two weeks from now when the dust settles.
 
please advise. am in bind.
 

Hello, I am helping my daughter who has received collections notices from two (2) separate agencies for the same alleged debt. One was from TRS Recovery Services in early 2019, and the most recent was Transworld Systems. When she received the initial 2019 letter from TRS, she contacted her bank (this was supposedly for a returned check at Walmart, and their notice listed Telecheck Services as the 'current creditor'). The bank had no record of any such transaction. 
 
In January 2020, she received a collection letter from Transworld Systems for the same alleged debt. In this letter, they also claim that Telecheck Services is the creditor. The amount of the alleged debt is the same in letters from TRS and Transworld.
 
A certified letter was sent to Transworld listing the Transworld Systems account number, and the alleged creditor account number. This letter requested a Verification of Debt as prescribed in 15 U.S. Code § 1692g and demanded that all information related to this matter, their ability to collect, and the original creditor information, be sent.
 
We received the Return Receipt (letter was received by Transworld 10-days ago).
 
Today, we received a second letter from Transworld with a NEW account number (for Transworld). There is also a new account number tied to Telecheck Services, but the alleged debt amount is exactly the same.
 
This letter was dated 4-days after they signed for our certified letter, so they are ignoring our demand for a Verification of Debt.
 
My question is, what is the best way to address this issue. They are clearly attempting to extort money since the debt is nonexistent, and are not complying with the FDCPA requirements. 
 
I look forward to feedback.
 
Thank you.  

Lots of updates and new information to vet.  🥴
I'll post the state by state list before merging into a single PDF for credit unions, with bookmarks for each state.
Post any updates, comments or related info about AL CUs.
**The final PDF will refer individuals to the CU website to verify membership requirements.
 

I'm and 27 and still relatively new to this process, there's no much to learn. I have been trying to build my credit for the last 3 years and it's been a slow-ish process. It was going well until I got sick and my engineering job fired me without notice so my insurance was not invalid.
 
There is one medical collection that has posted to TransUnion of $308 from Wakefield and Associates. From what I can see on Credit Karma, this collection is not on Equifax.
Experian I can't tell if it is posted there or not. I can see a negative collection from Experience on Discover's Credit Score Card. However, I have an energy bill that was in my name in which half ($53) was unpaid by an old roommate that's still showing 3 years later though it has been paid off since 12/9/16, so it may be that showing as delinquent/collection on Experian. It doesn't show the itemized adverse account list on that platform.
I only requested my annual credit reports for TransUnion and Equifax to have one more to pull if needed during the year. I believe I intended to pull Experian but got mixed up since I had issues with receving them online and had to do by mail. 
 
I also just received the second and last medical collection of $568 in the mail from Account Resolution Services. This hasn't posted to of the CAs yet from what I can tell.
 
I'm attempting to use the HiPPA process for the $308 dollar collection. But when I went to put in the account number, which is what I did not have from Credit Karma, the CR is still showing the same account number format of 111111****  and I'm assuming that is not a valid account number to place on the dispute form. So now I'm confused. 
 
Can someone please assist me? I'm confused and feel as though I'm missing some vital pieces of information to understanding and executing this correctly since I've been reviewing this process for months and the picture is still not as clear as I would like it to be.
 
Above all,
Thank you for time!

Hello all! I have a few very specific questions about Chex, Tele and EWS. I'm interested in opening a bank account that fits the criteria below. I'm hoping someone knows the answers. Here is a bit of applicable information that will help you answer my questions. I have nothing negative in my past as far as EWS/Chex/Tele. However, I have really bad credit. I currently reside in Florida.
 
 
1. I know when your credit report/Chexs/EWS report is pulled by a specific bank; it leaves a record of that in the form of a hard or soft inquiry for 2 years for credit reports and 5 years for Chex/EWS.
Meaning anyone who gets a hold of that report afterwords knows from the "inquiry history" which bank ran a check on me. Does Telecheck have an "inquiry history" on their report as well? I could not find any information online on that.
 
If the answer is no then I'm ok with opening an account with a bank that does only a Telecheck. But I also wanted to know just in case......I looked at the "pinned threads" which lists which institution runs which check. However, there no information on accepting out of state/area residents. So my question is the following:
 
2. Are there any  banks/CU's outside my state (FL) that will accept FL residents who also do not run any checks (Tele/Chex/EWS/credit report)? I'm ok with online only banks as well in case anyone knows of one that fits my criteria. I'm ok with them verifying my identity using my SS card/DL/passport etc. but I dont want to be ran in the systems mentioned above.
 
3. Also, I looked at the pinned threads with a list of banks by state. I noticed that a lot of them say sometime along the lines of "they offer second chance checking" but doesn't specify any checks the bank/CU runs. Are these institutions ones that don't run any check if you open a 2nd chance checking or is the information not listed because its not known.
 
 

My searchfu doesn't seem to be working well these days as a search just on HSBC only yielded seven threads here...but I remember much discussion in years past,
 
What is the current consensus on HSBC?  Years ago, I had the Weekender card but it went by the wayside when CrapOne entered the picture (I try to avoid their cards at all costs).  I was looking to add something else on the Mastercard network to try and even out my balance, and the 3% for the first year for the Cash Rewards card doesn't seem too horrid.  It drops to 1.5% after the first year, so it becomes a sock-drawer card at that point.  The no FTF fee is worthwhile from the standpoint of other options whilst traveling just because options are a good thing.  No annual fee.  
 
Anyone with recent experiences care to chime in and potentially talk me off of the ledge? 

HI,
 
I had a credit card with Bank of America that first went delinquent in 2013.  It was charged off a year later in 2014.  BoA still owns the debt and I have been slowly paying it off every month.  It's going to take me at least 3 more years to fully pay off this debt.  Later this year will be 7 years since this account first went delinquent.  Will this account be removed from my credit report even though it's not paid off?  Thanks for the help.

Could someone please tell me what this means in lame mans terms  Response I got on an ARB I submitted. 
 
Dear Parties:
 
Claimant has filed with us a demand for arbitration. We note that the arbitration clause provides for arbitration by the American Arbitration Association (“AAA”).
 
Prior to the filing of this arbitration, the business failed to comply with the AAA’s policies regarding consumer claims. Accordingly, we must decline to administer this claim and any other claims between LVNV Funding LLC and its consumers at this time. These policies can be found on our web site, www.adr.org, in the Consumer Due Process Protocol (“Protocol”) and the Consumer Arbitration Rules (“Consumer Rules”), including the Costs of Arbitration.
 
Accordingly, we have administratively closed our file and will refund any payment received by the filing party. According to R-1(d) of the Consumer Rules, should the AAA decline to administer an arbitration, either party may choose to submit its dispute to the appropriate court for resolution.
 
If you believe we have declined this matter in error, please email ConsumerFiling@adr.org.
 
Pursuant to the AAA’s current policy, in the normal course of our administration, the AAA may maintain certain electronic case documents in our electronic records system. Such electronic documents may not constitute a complete case file. Other than certain types of electronic case documents that the AAA maintains indefinitely, electronic case documents will be destroyed 3 months after the date of this letter.
 
If LVNV Funding LLC advises the AAA in the future of its intention to comply with the AAA’s Consumer Arbitration Rules and if applicable, resolves any outstanding payment obligations, the AAA may consider at its sole discretion, accepting newly filed consumer cases going forward. Therefore, if the business wishes for the AAA to consider accepting consumer disputes going forward, the business must, at a minimum, register its clause on the Consumer Clause Registry on our website, www.adr.org/clauseregistry. Upon completion of the registration process and confirmation from the AAA that the business is now active on the Consumer Clause Registry, the business is responsible for informing all parties that Claimant may re-file their claim.

Well after many years of enjoying good credit and all that it afforded me I'm here. I repaired my once damaged credit and purchased a home for myself and my son. That was in 2014. Present day I am at the cusp of filing bk. I met with the attorneys office yesterday and went over everything with the paralegal. My home was purchased for $87k in 2014. It currently has a market value of supposedly $170k. I am way over my head in credit card debt due to severing ties with my long term boyfriend. We lived together and accumulated debt together, but it was in my name. After deciding it would be best for my mental health that he move out I am now stuck with the feeling that no matter how much I work I'm can't breathe. So now I'm here standing with overdue credit cards, a few months behind on my mortgage and being served by NASA FCU. I currently have $90k of debt which includes student loans.  Please give me your honest opinions. After going through everything with the paralegal I qualify for Chapter 13 due to the equity in my home. I in no way intended to not pay my debt. I take pride in keeping my nose clean and having repaired my few mistakes from my younger years I feel terrible. If I proceed with the Chapter 13 I'll be repaying for five years. I'll be able to keep my home as well. I was wondering what your thoughts are regarding letting the house go and filing Chapter 7? I ask because I work two jobs now. I go to school, but can't fully commit to school due to my bills. If I had the opportunity to complete my program I would be able to financially provide and save. At this point I'm not paid enough and it won't ever be enough. So I was thinking the Chapter 7 would allow me to complete school, start anew and save. Chapter 13 would allow me to keep my house and that's it. Technically, I can pay my mortgage up this month and it not be the issue. The issue is all the credit card debt that I can't keep up with.  Also, the fact that I'm being sued. I know that I could set a payment plan up with the lawyer, but there are so many others that could sue. I also know that I won't find another home for as low as I currently have. My mortgage is cheap in comparison to the current market. Any input would be greatly appreciated. 

I recently have been working on getting my credit score higher and also want to have $100k in available credit (maybe a dumb thing to do).  In doing so I have gotten about 6 new credit cards in the past 6 months.  All of them have zero balance, about $30000 in available credit, I recently noticed my equifax dropped 16 points.  I assume this is from the inquiries and new accounts?  avg account age is 2yrs 8 months.  Should I close any of the new accounts to increase my credit age?  Or just be patient and wait for the accounts to age and the inquiries to age.
 
I am looking to buy a car next year, and maybe refinance my mortgage, and really want a 750+ score before I do so

Good evening all, I'm hoping to get some pointers on the best way to get a lower interest rate even with my crappy credit, I'll do my best to include all relevant info, but forgive me if I leave something out.  So here's my situation currently.
 
About a year ago, (Feb. technically), I bought a 2015 Subaru WRX.  The price of the car was $19,999.  But they bullied me into getting every single back-end bell and whistle they offered, telling me my monthly payment would go up if I didn't get the extended warranty and a whole bunch of other bs that I tried fighting with them about, but they just didn't really listen and included it all anyway.  They knew I wanted the car, they knew I had poor credit, so they basically man-handled me.  So I got financed through Flagship Credit Acceptance at a cold hard 21%.  I have made a years worth (roughly) of payments now at a nice $500-$600 (official monthly payment is around $545/month) a month.  Since I got the car, my FICO has gone from a 500 to a 571.  On Credit Karma and similar sites it shows all of my payments being made on time.  (I was a few days late once or twice at the most).  But I'm hoping that this is enough to help me to refinance and get a lower rate so my balance actually diminishes, cause it's quite depressing to see it literally go nowhere pretty much.  My payoff amount is $21,522.31 the NADA value of the car is currently Clean trade in $15,150 and clean retail is $17,225.  I'm not sure which number lenders use in this case.  I have been at my job for 3+ years, I make roughly $50k a year, little less, and this is really the only debt I have besides a couple things in collections that I'm fighting with at the moment maybe about $2k worth.  
 
The only company I have tried with thus far I believe is OpenRoadLending and I tried back in July and was declined.  Well that's my situation.  I'm really hoping to get some pointers/advice anything to help me get out of 21% hell.  Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for any help.  I appreciate it.
 
Regards,
 
Jeff W

I got a letter from collections on a medical debt and plan to use the HIPPA method. I have a few questions if anyone could help me answer and validate my planned approach :
Debt Amount  ~ $4,700 Debt is Not showing up on Credit report DOS - Apr 2019 I know I owe the amount to OC but have not validated the debt with CA  
Planned Approach:
 The debt is not showing up on credit reports so I don't plan to send a letter to CRA  I do owe the amount to OC and plan to pay directly to OC. Should I also send a DV letter to CA?  When using the HIPPA letter template, I do have to insert the State's name. Is this my state of residence or the state where the service was performed.   Should I send the banker's check as a single amount or 4 check's (The bill is for 4 amounts totaling to $4700)  
 
 

I get my credit score from Experian and they are constantly promoting Experian Boost to add points to your score.  I don't like the idea sharing more information and I'm assuming that it'll only make a difference with lower scores?  Is this true?  My score is 835 now so I don't need a boost but I can't help being curious.  
Does anyone have a boost they can share?

Hi, I'm new here and got a notice from a credit agency on my private student loan.  It's been 3 years since I last paid as I was contesting the amount and got sick.  I signed for the loan in D.C. and the loan originated in OH.  I now live in OH.  I also stopped paying while I lived in NY (before I moved to OH).  I just got a letter from a CA based in NY state (don't know if the CA state location makes any difference).  My question is which SOL will apply?  OH, NY or the shorter DC SOL of 3 years?  OH has a number of SOLs, 6 years, 8 years so I'm not sure which SOL would even apply to the promissory note for the bank based in OH.  How could I look this up at a law library.  I'm not very familiar with the process if anyone could help with legal research ideas?  I'm also contesting the validity of the loan because the promissory note states that the repayment period is 240 months and I think I have passed this point.  Any help I can find would help a long way; very stressed out by this situation---there are so many ways this could go---if the CA goes through with a judgment and wage garnishment (I'm disabled and earn a very small part time income) can they revive the judgment every five years for 15 years (OH) even after the SOL expires on the private loan itself (3 yrs DC SOL, 6 yrs NY SOL, 6 or 8 yrs SOL OH)?  I don't know if I should just ignore the CA or write them to dispute this loan (and risk waking the sleeping giant) or wake the sleeping giant with a dispute letter and prepare myself to go to court (have no idea how I would defend myself but would like to dispute amount of the loan, SOL etc).  This all seems very risky.  Can this debt sold to a credit agency be invalid?

I have 2 loans for car at 5% and education (private) at 8% totallying around 12,000. Upon looking into consolidation loans and/or private bank loans I can not find a loan at less than 7% or 8%.
My fico is at 770 and will likely go to 800 after a recent dispute. 
If I use 0% intro rates, this would mean I would need to continue to open new accounts after  each 12 - 16 month 0% intro APR run. 
Should I use credit cards at 0% to transfer this debt ?
What are some other options if any? 

Hello Everyone!  I am hoping someone can confirm that I am on the right path. 
I am in Texas and I have 2 collection accounts with Capital Accounts(based in TN).
 
 
1. $72 
2. $380
 
I sent a debt validation letter to the collection agency and they responded back with a ledger of the services. They are both for dental services from 2013 and 2015.   I believe they have violated a few fdcpa violations but wanted to confirm before I respond.
 
1. "Interest"- the CA responded stating that the original balances were for $50 and $305. They blatantly state that the additional fees/ amount are for interest. They continue to add on interest, changing the balance by only a few dollars (typically $1-3 depending on the CRA).  They did not send me anything that shows that the original agreement between myself and the dentist had stated that interest would accrue. Is this not a clear violation of FDCPA 807 False or Misleading Representations- I thought that CA is not allowed to add interest to medical debt, unless it was stated in the original agreement with the OC. 
 
2. HIPAA/ Medical Collections- The OC apparently faxed the collection agency a ledge of what services were done. I never gave authorization.  violation?
 
3. Stature of Limitations is 4 years for Texas. I know this typically means they cannot sue me BUT do I have any leverage here? Based on the ledger they sent
       (a), current balance is $72, original balance was $52, 04/11/2013 was date of last payment made to the OC by my health insurance and the OC sold it to the CA
       (b), current balance is $380, original balance was $305, 10/13/2015 was date of last payment made to the OC from insurance company, and they wrote it off as bad debt 05/17/2017 and      sold it to the CA.
 
I am familiar wit the medical collections forum, but wanted to see if  I have valid points when writing a response to the collection agency. 
 
Thoughts?
 
TIA!!