Zippo

So how do you really consider the value of the car? The selling price may not reflect the actual value. Is there a good source to determine the actual value?

I'm sorry, I don't understand your question using your terminology. The car is one year old, with one owner, and MSRP was $137k. The proposed amount financed is $100k. I don't know the invoice amount, I could probably find out.

your Age? 39 Your Equifax Credit Score? Myfico Auto 08 - 654 Your Experian Credit Score? Myfico Auto 08 - 635 Your TransUnion Credit Score? Myfico Auto 08 - 680 How many years have you been on file with Equifax? 14 How many years have you been on file with Experian? 14 How many years have you been on file with TransUnion? 14 YOUR PREVIOUS AUTOMOTIVE CREDIT HISTORY Do you have an open auto loan? Yes Will this open auto loan be a trade-in? yes How many late pays within the last 12 months on the currently open loan? 5 - couple 60 day late How many late pays within the last 13-24 months on the currently open loan? 0 Your current open auto loan is financed with? Ford & Ally Your current open auto loan payment is? $1250/mo & $980/mo Estimated amount you may be upside down in this vehicle? None, will pay off any upside down Rate your payment history on this open auto loan from 1-10 (1=poor:10=Best) 4 YOUR REVOLVING CREDIT HISTORY Total number of revolving account(s) you have? 4 Total percentage utilized overall? 0% How many of your revolving accounts are store cards? 0 How many of your revolving accounts are major credit cards? (i.e. Amex, MC, Visa) 4 How many of your revolving accounts are known subprime credit cards 0 YOUR PERSONAL INFORMATION How long at your current residence? 4 years Do you Rent or have a Mortgage, or Live w/Relative or Other? Mortgage Your Monthly Rent or Mortgage payment? $3200 How long have you held your current job? 9 years Your total provable monthly gross income is? $25,000 Your provable monthly gross income is provable via what method? (i.e. computerized paycheck stub, or tax return) Paystub Is there additional monthly income? What amount monthly? No Describe the source. Is the additional monthly income provable? No Spousal income is not applicable. YOUR DOWNPAYMENT Please tell me your exact down payment in cash? (rebates and trade equity are not considered, please input a dollar value only.) Would pay sales tax and $5k down Does any credit repository contain any Public Record? No If yes, please very briefly describe. Does any credit repository contain any Collection Account(s)? no If yes, please very briefly describe. Had a few accounts that went to collections, but are not listed as collections at all. There were a few charge off credit cards, but all have been settled $0 balance. Please rate your overall creditworthiness on a scale of 1-10 (1=poor, 10= best) 5 Please rate your Installment credit history on a scale of 1-10 (1=poor, 10=best) 5 - one auto loan has 24 months of perfect payments (due to auto pay), the other loan has some 30 and 60 day lates, but has been current for the last 4 months Please rate your Revolving credit history on a scale of 1-10 (1=poor, 10=best) 5 Looking to purchase a Porsche Panamera. Trading in current $68k loan and replace it with a $100k loan. Had some business deals go bad, got out of those, payments will be on time for the future.

Applied online last week and received the 7-15 message. I called a couple of days later and was approved for $10,000. I asked to speak with an analyst and they said I would have to wait until I received the card in the mail. Wonder if anyone has had any experience getting an increase on a new account.

Up almost 20 points for me ;-)

You can view your tax account transcripts here: http://www.irs.gov/Individuals/Get-Transcript

Thanks. I just had never had that before.

Just curious. I went to a car dealership. Filled out an application. Chase approved 100% LTV on a $75k car but I was never even asked for income verification (no paycheck stubs, no tax returns, etc). Is that normal?

works for all 3

Not valid any longer. just worked for me

Payment history updates on a closed account as long as it has a balance you can still pay against (in this case it does). What I'm trying to figure out is if it will be better to pay the balance off, not risk any future late payments, and not have the closed account with balance tradeline or pay it off so that the 30 day late falls off the last 24 month window.

Recently I accidentally missed a payment on an account. This triggered them to report a 30-Day late and close the account. Should I pay the account off now, or make small payments for the next 24 months so that the 30-Day late isn't on the front page of the 'last 24 months history' when going to apply for a new loan in the future. What will be better for the score? to just have it paid off, or to let that 30-day age off the previous 24 months list? Thanks

Trying to help someone get a portfolio loan 589 / 478 / 540 Last week 608 / 526 / 552 some 30-day late just reported -- stupid mistake to let it get late. Overall scores are lower because of credit utilization, and spotty slow pays. No major charge offs, or big problems. House is $500k. Have 20% down. Any good options for this? Just Portfolio lending? Will they be OK with the scores? Income is there, just had some bad times with slow payments due to cash flow issues.

So I am not saying that was a good thing to do, or not. I also am not saying that I agree with the CA side of things. All I can say is... People do lie. I bet that the CA's hear a lot about people with cancer, this that or the other that do not really have it. Just use it as an excuse to not pay a bill. I do deeply feel bad for those that do actually have cancer and hear "I don't care about your cancer..." However, at some point I bet there are a lot of people saying things like that who really are as healthy as could be. For example, in my business. I have a customer who couldn't pay my company a huge bill they owe us. I understand that they are a middle-man and are waiting to get paid from their customer before we can get paid... Call us, tell us that, fine we'll understand what's going on. However the guy had his secretary call us and say that he was in the hospital with XYZ and nobody had access to the passwords but him. As soon as they could they would get us details for payment. Funny thing is, I ran into him on the golf course a few days ago.. Didn't appear to be in a medical coma to me... hmm.. So, the point is.. Possibly some of the root of the CA's being the way they are is because of the way the consumers treated them to begin with. i.e. if people would pay bills they owe on time then the CA's wouldn't have to collect. If those people didn't pay on time, why would they want to pay when a CA gets involved? To me it seems that a lot of problems people bring on themselves. Sure, you have cancer and can't help it.. That's understandable, and in fact the CA's should leave you alone. You get a credit card, don't pay the bill, let it charge off then avoid the CA's.. You should be bugged every 15 minutes, because it means people like me (who pays bills on time) have higher interest rates.. And the person with cancer has to be harassed because the CA has no idea if it's true or not.

Pretty sure the point of the confirmation number from your bank is to validate between you and the bank that you did your part. When the payment doesn't go through that is when they send a letter to your creditor they fix it. Had this happen to me. No big deal. Big bank sends letter saying Bank Error, creditor fixes. Pull doesn't always work either. This was, oh I'd guess sometime in 2007. Diners Club had 2 "events" where they pulled money out. They showed it on their site as being pulled, but it didn't come out of the bank for almost six weeks. NOTHING, not even checks is fool proof. In fact I would rather do online banking either push/pull and watch the transactions happen much faster than writing paper checks.