I just have a question on deciding if I should pay this in full or over the next few month.
I had to file chapter 13 in 2015.
I’ve been rebuilding since discharged in June 2019. I’ve done really good with CC’s since then. I was approved for 3k with PayPal credit. I only use it for purchases over 100 so I can get 0% for 6 months. I owe $1300 on it now. (Christmas) It will be interest free until June.
I needed a an installment loan so I got $3600 via Upstart. I refused more because I just need the trade line.
My question is do I just pay $350 over the next few months and put the money in savings or go ahead and just pay it in full?
The total credit lines for Credit cards including the PayPal is $8750
I owe less than $1400 total.
I’m going to let them draft the payment for the loan monthly and then just pay it in full at 13 months.
That’s my plan and it makes sense in my head. I just don’t know what to do about the Paypal account. Pay in full now or wait and get the extra interest from savings account.
any advice? I over think everything.
Early during 2019 I stopped paying all of my credit debt which consisted of credit cards and loans. I started off in 2017 with good credit-- scores in the 700s. I helped my boyfriend and got very much overwhelmed. Now in addition to working with a company named Peace of Mind whose brand is about forcing a creditor to prove that the creditor owns the debt in question, I want to do some of my own cleanups. I'm familiar with the Universal Data Form relative to how it is utilized. Question: Can I use the form to submit credit challenges to the three credit bureaus. I'm so ready to achieve that 850 middle credit score!
A "backdoor number" is one that gets you past frontline CSR's directly to Credit Analysts / Credit Departments / Account Managers / Account Specialists (different lenders call 'em different things) - these people/departments have decision-making abilities far beyond frontline CSR's; they can take and review requests for reconsideration of denied CC apps or CLI requests, APR reductions, etc. and implement their decisions.
I can continuously update this first post with the latest information if everyone will post to this thread. I'll make the change and acknowledge. We deeply appreciate your participation.
Amazon (store card): see Synchrony (GE)
AMEX: (Oasis Program)
AMEX: 866-314-0237 (new app status)
AMEX: 800-582-6471 (recon with frozen EX for pin)
AMEX Business charge cards - (877) 399-3083
AMEX Credit Bureau Unit: 800-874-2717 (Must have a current credit report before calling. They will ask for the account number from the credit report, which is different from your card number)
Barclays: 888-232-0780 (Customer Care)
Barclays: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst)
BBVA Compass Bank: (American Express Card issues only) 866-246-2924
Best Buy: 877-420-0001
Best Buy: 888-908-9890 (Credit Analyst, existing accounts only)
BofA: 888-260-4696 (secured accts.)
BofA: 800-824-5895 (secured & partially secured accts.)
BofA: 704-386-5687 (Office of the CEO)
BofA: 888-500-6270 (Credit Dept. Fax)
BofA Business: 877-665-5023 (Analyst/UW)
BofA Business: 877-665-5023 (New applications)
BofA Business: 800-442-1043
Cap1: 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist)
Cap1: 800-951-6951 (cust. relations)
Cap1: 800-548-4593 (application department; status)
Cap1: 800-889-9939, 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist)
Cap1: 877-513-9959 (Account Retention?)
Cap1: 800-258-9319 (Debt Recovery)
Cap1: 866-280-0118, 800-955-1455 (EO) (Nerfed in general)
Cap1 Secured Platinum: 800-219-7931 (deposit taker, can speak to credit analyst)
Chase: 800-432-3117 (App status)
Chase Personal CC Recon 888-270-2127
Chase Business CC Recon 800-453-9719
Chase: 800-453-9719 (Business card lending)
Chase: 888-622-7547 (Chase Executive Ofc. in IL)
Chase: 800-955-9900 (Product change status questions)
Chase: 888-298-5623 (Consolidation - M-F 8am-10pm EST)
Chevron/Texaco Biz Card App Status: 888-243-8358
Citi: 800-645-7240, 800-288-4653 (Citi Business)
Citi: 800-750-7453 (Business)
Citi 888-201-4523 (Personal)
Citi: 718-248-0847 (EO)
Citi: 800-695-5171 (New Accounts UW)
Citi: 605-331-1698 (EO - CC division)
Citi Credit Bureau Dispute Fax: 866-713-5028
Comenity: 800-303-1368 (Consumer Relations - Recon)
Discover: 888-676-3695 (New Accounts)
Discover: 866-305-7691 (Direct Line TO CS)
Discover: 866-222-0536 (EO)
Elan: 800-364-9648 (CC underwriting, business and personal)
Equifax: 800-846-5279 (Direct to Rep)
Equifax Executive Office 404-885-8000
Experian: 800-493-1058, 800-208-9232 (9AM-5PM ET, need report number from EX)
ExxonMobil Biz Card: 800-903-9966
FIA: See Elan
GEMB: 877-294-7541 (escalated help desk)
Home Depot Store Card: 800-677-0232 (Credit Analyst)
Home Depot Store Card: 423 467 6957 (App Status/Recon)
Home Depot MC (Commercial): 800-720-0649
Home Depot: 800-685-6691 (Commercial)
Hooters: 801-545-6705, 800-850-4668
HSBC: 866-574-4421 (App Status)
HSBC: 866-719-3897 (Credit Analyst)
JC Penney: 800-542-0800
Juniper: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst)
Juniper/Barclays: 866-750-6031 (Corp. Offices)
Key Bank: 888-201-4523 (App status)
Key Bank: 800-254-2737
Key Bank MC: 800-288-4653
Key Bank Credit Research Fax: 216-357-6400
Lowes: see Synchrony (GE)
Macy's: 800-627-2909 (Credit Dept. - new credit, inquiries on upgrade to Visa, credit reporting issues)
Macy's: 800-543-9617 (Recovery Services)
Marvel: see Synchrony (GE)
Meijers MC: 801-517-5560
National City: 800-762-0974 (Credit Dept.)
Nationwide Visa: 866-757-2720 (App. status)
Nordstrom: 800-964-1800 (CLI)
Orchard: 800-395-6090 (May get answered in Spanish by bilingual CSR's. If this happens and you don't speak Spanish, either try again later or try saying "Habla ingles?" or "Ingles, por favor" to let them know you're an English-speaker)
Philips 66: 866-289-5630, 800-610-1961
PNC Bank: 800-762-2117 (Business CC)
PNC Bank: 877-562-0150 (Business UW)
Sam's Club: 800-301-5546 (Underwriting)
Sears: 800-599-9710 (App status)
Shell Fleet Card: 800-223-3296 (App status)
Shell: 800-223-3296, 866-438-7435
Staples: 800-767-1291, 800-282-5316
Sunoco Corp. Card: 800-935-3387, 800-278-6626
Synchrony (GE): 800-240-0512, 800-480-0205 (Biz)
Synchrony (GE): 800-588-4290 (Consumer)
Synchrony (GE): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW)
Synchrony (GE): 888-885-6937 (Verification)
Synchrony (GE): 800-333-1082 (Haverty's)
Synchrony (GE): 866-519-6441 (Marvel CC, Sr UW)
Target Biz Card: 800-440-5317
Transunion: (312) 466-7719 (Corporate Office Resolution Team Voicemail)
Transunion: (610) 546-4600 (Corporate Office, need extension or last name to search directory)
USAA Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 ext 38763 (secured product specialist)
US Bank: 800-685-7680 (Underwriting)
US Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 (underwriters for secured product)
Walmart (Sync): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW)
Walmart (Sync): 877-969-5302 (Verification)
Wells Fargo: 866-677-1128 (CC Executive Office)
Wells Fargo: 844-576-6424 (Executive Office)
Wells Fargo: 877-514-3717 (Amex Propel Credit Svcs)
Wells Fargo: 844-879-4824 (Direct # for Product Change Credit Svcs)
Wright Express: 888-743-3893
Hi, I have been away for a few weeks dealing with this stuff, and I have been hesitant to post about this, but I've been not making much progress and I was hoping someone could help point me in the right direction (if there is a direction at all). This is really long but I don't want to mislead anyone about the complicated aspects.
In previous threads, I've said things to the effect of I was unlikely to need a mortgage in the next 5 years, but of course, that has changed. Nearly seven years ago I bought a house with my parent in that parent's name; I am not on the deed and I know this is the main takeaway from this post. As I've alluded in other threads, my house has an apartment and that parent unilaterally decided to allow my sibling to stay in the apartment without paying rent, and asked me to contribute more to cover this person and whoever they happened to be dating at the moment.
In what is a super long story, that sibling badly wanted my house (which I chose, and did all the closing work, and signed the first set of contracts, etc etc) as of this year. In my broader and weirdly close family, this house has always been a point of contention because I found it at an insanely low price, discovered that it was actually a rare legal two family, and fought for that to survive closing. It is also waterfront, and has gone up in value since we bought it.
At the beginning of this year, parent decided to do minor construction to give sibling more space, in the process eliminating parent's bedroom, parent has another house in another state that is now their primary residence. Sibling immediately initiated a campaign of constant complaining to parent, with what I suspect was an end goal of parent agreeing to "give" her our house. (I have put about $150K into it, sibling has paid rent a total of six times.) There is a lot more to this, but sibling successfully triangulated that parent to believe I am making sibling's life difficult out of envy or something. Parent buys this story, and was separated from me for the duration of the year due to covid in the house etc.
Part of my initial objection to construction was that I was certain my sibling would have a third child by this third partner imminently, making the construction obsolete. Parent said sibling was "not that stupid," but if they did that, they'd have to leave. Six weeks later, sibling both got covid and got pregnant. 😕 (My proposal was to rent the apartment and give sibling the proceeds.)
In July, parent asked me to meet them at the office of the lawyer who did the closing, and indicated they wished to sell the house, to which I said great, I would like to buy it. (I have a cosigner.) Parent and the lawyer asked me to borrow an additional $130K to "give" my sibling. At this juncture I decided to just get my own lawyer, because I did not feel the offer was made in good faith, and it seemed as though parent felt that honoring my right of first refusal was "favoring" me over my sibling, and that the offer was intentionally placed where they thought it was out of reach.
Then parent offered the house to sibling for over $200,000 less than the offer made to me. Sibling was unable to qualify for a mortgage, and cannot continue staying here with five people in a two room apartment.
Parent also continued to get angrier based on things my sibling claimed were happening, which were not happening (that I was bothering sibling in various ways). A few weeks ago parent came back and asked me to make an offer, but then left before even letting me do that. My lawyer has said to just wait, and has not responded to messages this week.
Parent then listed the house, and sibling taped an eviction notice to our door this week. That is all just stupid backstory, but the element of parent being unwilling to speak to me is a huge factor here, or I would have made the offer etc. I suspect sibling convinced their new partner that this was their house, and that is the motivation for creating conflict.
Two weeks ago I was referred to a mortgage broker who indicated me and my co-signer qualify for $20K over the higher asking price - but as I updated the broker about the eviction letter, they didn't want to do any more work on it unless I could guarantee parent was willing to sell it to me (which I understand). Theoretically a pre-approval can be for any house, but there may be an element of the income created by this house being part of what a price is contingent on? I'm just guessing. (Co-signer also needs to deal with a negative entry on their report but has a near 800 score per the broker.)
So as of today, me and co-signer have had our credit run once - and I know inquiries don't matter! But I am eager to get this resolved, and just learned sibling has tentative plans to move, which I suspect will make parent amenable to selling the house to me. But I don't know how to go about getting this letter.
As an aside, I'm really frustrated at this being so messy and last-minute, because we easily could have worked out a solution to which everyone was amenable. But this house has tremendous value to me both emotionally (it's me and my dead husband's house) and financially (the apartment replaces his income), so I don't want money from a sale, I just want to buy it.
I do not know where to start or how to get a pre-approval letter, which my lawyer has been waiting on to initiate anything. I understand the initial broker is spooked by my parent's behavior, which looks really aggressive. Knowing this parent, they are a massive people pleaser and terrified of confrontation, hence the horrific communication. This whole situation is just embarrassing and has consumed my year with anxiety and stress.
Sorry for writing all of that, but it's been occupying my thoughts and is part of why I haven't been around lately, and is also the lay of the land. Broker also alluded to an alternative deal structure that "wouldn't even require a mortgage probably," but I have no idea what they meant by that. It appears parent just wants to get money for sibling before the baby, and I have no intention of not contending I have a right of first refusal.
So the major question is "how can I get a pre-approval letter" and the secondary question is "does anyone have any insight or ideas of how to present my buying the house as advantageous to everyone?" I would have prepared for this, but sibling's demand for the house and decision to rush into having a baby with a stranger have caused all this impulsivity on the part of sibling and parent. I don't know anything about mortgages and I just want to resolve this and save Christmas.
I had a NFCU cc of $25,xxx (25k) charged off in Dec. 2018. During my small business startup and struggles I tried my best to stay afloat. I managed to keep my NFCU auto loan ($31k, balance $5,000, never miss/late payment) and NFCU cc ( $3000 never miss/late payment) current.
My Equifax lists:
12/2018 Charged off account
Date of Last Payment Aug 01, 2020 (I made NO PAYMENTS or arrangements since CO. I keep little money (under $100 in my checking savings. Low and behold In August 2020 I see a 'DR Adjustment' of $1000 from my checking. After investigating I learned that a commercial account deposit I had in 2016 was credited back to me and the acct they had on file was NFCU and they snatched the grand and sent me a letter 'thanking me' for my payment of $1000.
My state is NC, does this now effect my SOL? Is this legal for NFCU to take money from your checking account and update the CRA as you've made a payment when I did not initiate it?
After this eye-opening moment, I did some research and it's my guess that NFCU loan terms have 'cross-collateralization' verbiage.
When my NFCU auto loan is paid in full, will they send me the title or 'hold' it until the CO is paid off or settled for agreed amount? If I settle at a percentage of CO before auto loan is paid, will I get the title once auto loan is zero balance?
I reached out to NFCU collections and got an offer to settle the co acct for $4000, so including the $1000 they already debited, that 20% of the charged off amount to stop the collection process. I'm assuming even with all the lawsuits NFCU has been a part of since 2016 to present, PFD is not an option on the table as a counter offer. I have the means to pay $4,000 to them within 10 days, besides my CRA showing 'paid, settled for less', how will this effect my credit and score?
I know the general opinion on CB is that NFCU is GREAT and one should try to stay in their good graces, but it seems things there have changed for the downhill since 2017 and with a recent whistleblower lawsuit concerning their mortgage underwriting practices... their home loans advantage could also suffer in the near future. Personally at this stage, I'm not '$25k-in-love' with NFCU, but if you can offer reasons to sway my judgment, it will be enlightening.
All in all, I'm seeking advice to get my title once the vehicle is paid off and maintaining the 'most amicable' relationship with NFCU going forward holding a single credit card, checking, and saving accts.