Jump to content

The last post in this topic was posted 2646 days ago. 

 

We strongly encourage you to start a new post instead of replying to this one.

Recommended Posts


Any problems with the A/C when it is turned off? How old is the battery? Are the battery posts corroded? Any problems starting? A simple voltage check can determine if it is a battery or alternator usually free at some places. Could also be something as simple as the engine idle speed isn't compensating for the AC.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If it's an intermittent thing where it blows cold air sometimes and then other times doesn't, can you hear the a/c compressor clutch kicking the compressor on and off when you DON'T get cold air?

 

Could be refrigerant leak (only if it NEVER gets cold anymore, especially since it sounds like you recently added refrigerant); could also be one of the pressure switches (compressor not always coming on when it's supposed to when freon pressure gets too low to satisfy whatever temp you have the AC set to) or a faulty compressor/clutch.

 

If the compressor isn't coming on when you don't feel cold air, you might try tapping gently on the accumulator under the hood to see if you can get the compressor to engage (if it does, it's likely a compressor and/or pressure switch issue).

 

Need a bit more info, but if it were your alternator you'd likely notice other problems (maybe you do) besides the AC, given that your entire charging system would be affected (i.e., the vehicle would have either reduced ability or NO ability to keep your battery charged and charging system functional over time while driving).

 

 

 

 

Sent using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

...Could also be something as simple as the engine idle speed isn't compensating for the AC.

Yep, especially if the issue only occurs at idle or low RPMs and never occurs while at speed riding down the highway (high enough RPMs to sustain the compressor load).

 

 

Sent using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry for not responding last night, was exhausted yesterday and hit the sheets early.

 

Is the engine getting to hot?

 

no, engine is not overheating. new radiator, hoses thermostat all within the past few years.

 

Any problems with the A/C when it is turned off? How old is the battery? Are the battery posts corroded? Any problems starting? A simple voltage check can determine if it is a battery or alternator usually free at some places. Could also be something as simple as the engine idle speed isn't compensating for the AC

 

no problems off, thought about the battery, and yes a voltage check showed had it replaced under warranty, but AC still kicking off

 

 

If it's an intermittent thing where it blows cold air sometimes and then other times doesn't, can you hear the a/c compressor clutch kicking the compressor on and off when you DON'T get cold air?

 

YES EXACTLY THIS

Could be refrigerant leak (only if it NEVER gets cold anymore, especially since it sounds like you recently added refrigerant);

 

NO leaks, had it recharged.

 

could also be one of the pressure switches (compressor not always coming on when it's supposed to when freon pressure gets too low to satisfy whatever temp you have the AC set to) or a faulty compressor/clutch.

If the compressor isn't coming on when you don't feel cold air, you might try tapping gently on the accumulator under the hood to see if you can get the compressor to engage (if it does, it's likely a compressor and/or pressure switch issue).

 

 

Where's the Accumulator?


Need a bit more info, but if it were your alternator you'd likely notice other problems (maybe you do) besides the AC, given that your entire charging system would be affected (i.e., the vehicle would have either reduced ability or NO ability to keep your battery charged and charging system functional over time while driving).

 

yeah, that's why I had the battery checked and changed

 

Yep, especially if the issue only occurs at idle or low RPMs and never occurs while at speed riding down the highway (high enough RPMs to sustain the compressor load).

 

That's when it happens; the alternator clutch disengages at high speeds, and then in stop and go traffic on the highway. - other times on surface streets, it stays on forever, and stays on for idling

 

( and especially if the mechanic is standing there looking at it; it knows a presence. )

there is a humming noise - not exceedingly loud, I just notice because it's my car.

Link to post
Share on other sites

(Toyota would have a TXV system, no accumulator and no cycling switch like most American cars have.) Compressor works for a few cycles when the car is cold, then engages only intermittently, is almost always because the clutch gap is too wide. This can usually be adjusted without replacing the whole compressor, but finding a mechanic willing to tinker with stuff like that can be difficult.

Link to post
Share on other sites

(Toyota would have a TXV system, no accumulator and no cycling switch like most American cars have.) Compressor works for a few cycles when the car is cold, then engages only intermittently, is almost always because the clutch gap is too wide. This can usually be adjusted without replacing the whole compressor, but finding a mechanic willing to tinker with stuff like that can be difficult.

Ah yes, it is indeed a thermostatic system on those cars (the "receiver" or "dryer" performs the accumulator function to reduce/prevent moisture buildup in the system). It could indeed be a clutch air gap issue preventing the compressor from engaging...too wide as mentioned can prevent the coil from operating the clutch (which engages the compressor). This would make a lot of sense if the air always blows cold when you first start driving the car (colder wire typically has less resistance...as time goes on and it heats up it may cause intermittent problems engaging the compressor once the resistance increases). Perhaps the coil itself is weak/faulty also.

 

It's possible that the problem could be the expansion valve itself, especially if there is significant moisture or dirt buildup in the system.

 

 

Sent using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

(Toyota would have a TXV system, no accumulator and no cycling switch like most American cars have.) Compressor works for a few cycles when the car is cold, then engages only intermittently, is almost always because the clutch gap is too wide. This can usually be adjusted without replacing the whole compressor, but finding a mechanic willing to tinker with stuff like that can be difficult.

Ah yes, it is indeed a thermostatic system on those cars (the "receiver" or "dryer" performs the accumulator function to reduce/prevent moisture buildup in the system). It could indeed be a clutch air gap issue preventing the compressor from engaging...too wide as mentioned can prevent the coil from operating the clutch (which engages the compressor). This would make a lot of sense if the air always blows cold when you first start driving the car (colder wire typically has less resistance...as time goes on and it heats up it may cause intermittent problems engaging the compressor once the resistance increases). Perhaps the coil itself is weak/faulty also.

 

It's possible that the problem could be the expansion valve itself, especially if there is significant moisture or dirt buildup in the system.

 

 

Sent using Tapatalk

 

I'm going to print this all out and take it with me. :good:

Link to post
Share on other sites

:blink:

 

so answer this additional symptom...

 

the car was sitting out , and had to run an errand in 112 degree heat.

 

and the AC was continuing as above, cutting out every 1/2 mile.

 

decided to take it thru the car wash to at least cool off the car itself, so the AC would be a bit more effective

 

and after the wash ..... the AC ran perfectly.

 

drove it for another 20 miles, and it only kicked off 2x.

 

Ice cold.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. ; just figured out where the condenser is from a U tube video.

 

I do wash this car regularly, it was a different wash which must of hit the front grill & undersides differently - the old car wash was bought out and they replaced all the equipment.

 

short of power washing the condenser, maybe just run it thru this particular wash a few more times?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Never try to power wash a condenser. On some models the fins are very thin and may bend down flat on you, requiring replacement or lots of tedious straightening.

 

Use pressure from an ordinary hose. First dampen the condenser and apply a strong detergent, wait some time for the detergent to loosen the grime then rinse with the hose, shooting straight through the fins.

Edited by mk_378
Link to post
Share on other sites

it looks pretty clean now that it's been thru the wash 2x - I think it was the first haboob that did it in .

 

but the fins look like they need straightening anyways - it's 16 years old, lots of bent fins , not enough airflow.

 

the AC still cuts and dies , but not as often

 

I"ve done this before years ago on a radiator, need to go pick up that tool

Link to post
Share on other sites

The last post in this topic was posted 2646 days ago. 

 

We strongly encourage you to start a new post instead of replying to this one.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Member Statistics

    • Total Members
      182,768
    • Most Online
      2,046

    Newest Member
    GoldenGurl
    Joined
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Guidelines