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  1. Hello, everyone. For the past week or so, I've been reading up on ways to deal with a CA that recently showed up on my credit report. I stumbled upon Why Chat's HIPAA program, read through it, and while it's quite clear, I just want to make sure it is the right thing for me. I'd also like to use it to ask potential follow up questions along the process. It showed up on my credit report June 28th, with a Date of First Delinquency of February 20th, 2017. At the moment, it only shows up on Equifax and Experian. It's from a hospital visit in California, and I am from and currently live in Arizona, and while I did have medicaid at the time, I was told that it would probably not cover it, but they'd let me go through with it anyway. I started to get bills from the Riverside County Medical department, but I initially ignored them, as I was an unemployed college student, and my mom advised me it wouldn't matter anyway; The bill was for $991. I'm now 23, and have been working hard on my credit score, this is the only blemish on my record, and I would love to get rid of it completely. I have a few old addresses on my credit report, but they're all from years before this account, and I've lived at my current address for around 11 years now. Do I still have to go through the deletion process for those other addresses? Other than that, I'm thinking my first step would be to fill out and send the "Initial HIPAA Dispute Letter" to the two CRAs that show the collection, is this correct? Thanks in advance for any help!
  2. Just thought I would post this in order to save someone else some time. After waiting for about 2-3 months for my trade lines to post to no avail, I decided to make some phone calls to vendors who I thought may report to DNB. Here are my results: Quill - Still reports. Have to make a purchase of at least $50 and wait 19 days to pay it. (I hate this personally) Uline - Still reports. Not sure what their terms are. Grainger - Have not been able to get an account with them because they are saying you must be incorporated for at least 3 months until they approve an account with you. EzPromos - Do not report Amsterdam Printing - Do not report SupplyWorks - Do not report MSC Industrial - Do not report These are based on the individuals I spoke with in each respective business's credit department. If anyone has their purchases reporting with the vendors that I stated do not report, feel free to comment and start a discussion. Also, if anyone know of any other Net30 vendors that reports to DNB, lets start a thread.
  3. Hi CBs, I'm a newbie and after reading all the newbie forums I hope I'm doing this right. This is my first post. I just received a Notice of Intention To File An IRS 1099 -C Form from a CA - Offices of Taylor and Associates. The notice says that they are the legal owners of the account referenced in the box below. The box includes the OC name (Bank of America), and account #, the CA name, charge-off balance $1719.21, Interest $2751.68, Total amount owed $4470.89, charge-off date 3/3/2004, and client claim number. Then the CA offers me two settlement options lower than what would be paid to the IRS. It's a one-time offer and apparently their last attempt (first I received) to settle this account before submitting the 1099-C to the IRS. I can make a one time payment of $670.63 or 6 monthly payments of $140.43. If no settlement is agreeable I am to detach the form below (1099-C form) and file it with my 2020 taxes. Some interesting facts about the notice: My first name used is a variation of my legal name but not my legal name. My last name used is my maiden name and I was married in 2004 (at the time this was apparently C/O). I pulled my credit reports and this does not show on any report. I don't even remember having a BOA account in 2004. So do I send a DV (CRRR of course)? I'm sorry if this is too long.
  4. Hey there everyone! I've been a lurker for way to long and decided it's time to get to rebuilding my credit. Thank you to everyone who has contributed on this forum! It has been a help to many and will to me also. So here are my details....🤕 Background About May 2014 I lost my job of 5 years and my apartment all in a 30 day span because life happens of course. I had some savings to stay afloat but it ran out and I couldn't run to a well paying job like the one I had fast enough. Hence, my credit went down the drain over the next year. Baddies I sucked it up and went to MyFico to get a real snapshot of my situation after pulling my three annual reports. At this time I have about 10 baddies on my CR s. Bank of America - CC that is a CO Hey there everyone! I've been a lurker for way to long and decided it's time to get to rebuilding my credit. Thank you to everyone who has contributed on this forum! It has been a help to many and will to me also. So here are my details.... Background About May 2014 I lost my job of 5 years and my apartment all in a 30 day span because life happens of course. I had some savings to stay afloat but it ran out and I couldn't run to a well paying job like the one I had fast enough. Hence, my credit went down the drain over the next year. Baddies I sucked it up and went to MyFico to get a real snapshot of my situation after pulling my three annual reports. At this time I have about 10 baddies on my CR s. Bank of America - CC that is a CO DOFD - 12/2014 DOLA - 01/2015 CL - $2,100 Deficient Balance - $2,342 Getting emails over the last few month directly from CCC trying to settle the account. Started at $1,200 or so now trying to settle account for around $700. Account falls off report in 2021. Capital One Auto Finance - Auto Loan that is a CO DOFD - 11/2018 DOLA - EQ shows 09/2018 and TU shows 07/2019 Deficient Balance - $11,767 after repo and auction Offered to settle for $2,354 in 08/2019 via lump sum or payments of up to 12 installments. Delta Community Credit Union - Auto Loan that is a CO DOFD - 08/2014 DOLA - EQ shows 08/2014 and TU shows 06/2014 Deficient Balance - $1,881 after repo auction Never offered to settle debt Dept of Ed/Nelnet - Student Loan DOFD - 04/2015 DOLA - 01/2018 Paid as agreed with only 90 days late derogs showing EQ 08/2015, 07/2015, 06/2015 TU 04/2015 - 08/2015 EXP only 08/2015 Discover Bank - CC that is a CO DOFD - EQ 04/2015, EXP 12/2017? DOLA - EQ 11/2014, TU 06/2014 Deficient Balance - $1,413 No offer to settle. CCC tried to get judgement in small claims court. CCC's attorney no showed and case was dismissed. Didn't even know about the case until maybe 2018 cause they sent court notice to prior address. Georgia Power - Utility Company DOFD - 06/2014 DOLA - 10/2015 Deficient Balance - $0 Paid balance in full after CO. Only shows on EQ on CR. Georgia's Own Credit Union - CC that is a CO DOFD - 08/2014 DOLA - 09/2014 Deficient Balance - $0 (prior $1,222) No offer to settle. Only reports to EQ and EXP. No reporting from CCC since 02/2015. Macy's - CC that is a CO DOFD - EQ 10/2014, EXP 12/2017 DOLA - EQ 07/2014, TU 06/2014 Deficient Balance - $0 Used to call like crazy but I went off on the CA and mentioned the FCRA and CFPB and they never called or sent a letter again back around 2015/2016. Portfolio Recovery - CA for OC DOFD - 02/2015 (date CA was assigned) DOLA - 08/2018 (stupidly made a payment to CA) Deficient Balance - $474 (started as $624) Made a payment in late 2018 to CA then stopped. Got a letter or two from them then they went away. OC was Synchrony Bank for a Care Credit CC. Progressive Insurance - Place with CA by OC DOFD - 04/2019 (date CA was assigned) Deficient Balance - $212 Assigned with CA Caine Weiner. Had a car repo'd and forgot to cancel the insurance. OC for car called file claim and insurance company cancelled policy once notified of the repo. In addition to the baddies I have about 8 old addresses listed under the CRAs Inquiries EQ 3 hard from two car dealers (10/12/2018, 10/16/2018, 10/19/2018) Never signed anything and it looks like dealer pulled over the phone when calling about trying to trade in car to avoid repo by Cap1 from above. 15 soft Mostly Credit Karma and Lexis Nexis from shopping auto insurance rates. TU 1 hard from 10/19/2018 car dealer 17 soft (same reasons as EQ) EXP 1 hard from 10/19/2018 car dealer 29 soft Same reason as above and some skip tracing via repo companies. Scores Fico 8 Scores EQ - 490 TU - 496 EXP - 523 Next Steps Taken Opt'd Out - 02/2020 Gearing up to get old addresses removed from CR Approved for Self Lender Account 12 installments at $48 Goals Get scores of to 600. No specific timeframe but, to be accountable 12-18 month in my case seems fair. Questions With derogs this old should I just rebuild for the year via Self Lender and maybe a Secure CC in 3-6 month and let the derogs fall off in late 2021? EXP has the complete wrong date of birth listed for me as 12/31/1987. Trying to age me I guess. Dispute this at the same time as the addresses showing proof via license? Should I settle any of these accounts? If any I would consider the Cap1 Auto loan since they offered $2358 and the balance is over $11k. PFD on the CAs or DV first? - 12/2014 DOLA - 01/2015 CL - $2,100 Deficient Balance - $2,342 Getting emails over the last few month directly from CCC trying to settle the account. Started at $1,200 or so now trying to settle account for around $700. Account falls off report in 2021. Capital One Auto Finance - Auto Loan that is a CO DoFD - 11/2018 DOLA - EQ shows 09/2018 and TU shows 07/2019 Deficient Balance - $11,767 after repo and auction Offered to settle for $2,354 in 08/2019 via lump sum or payments of up to 12 installments. Delta Community Credit Union - Auto Loan that is a CO DoFD - 08/2014 DOLA - EQ shows 08/2014 and TU shows 06/2014 Deficient Balance - $1,881 after repo auction Never offered to settle debt Dept of Ed/Nelnet - Student Loan DoFD - 04/2015 DOLA - 01/2018 Paid as agreed with only 90 days late derogs showing EQ 08/2015, 07/2015, 06/2015 TU 04/2015 - 08/2015 EXP only 08/2015 Discover Bank - CC that is a CO DoFD - EQ 04/2015, EXP 12/2017? DOLA - EQ 11/2014, TU 06/2014 Deficient Balance - $1,413 No offer to settle. CCC tried to get judgement in small claims court. CCC's attorney no showed and case was dismissed. Didn't even know about the case until maybe 2018 cause they sent court notice to prior address. Georgia Power - Utility Company DoFD - 06/2014 DOLA - 10/2015 Deficient Balance - $0 Paid balance in full after CO. Only shows on EQ on CR. Georgia's Own Credit Union - CC that is a CO DoFD - 08/2014 DOLA - 09/2014 Deficient Balance - $0 (prior $1,222) No offer to settle. Only reports to EQ and EXP. No reporting from CCC since 02/2015. Macy's - CC that is a CO DoFD - EQ 10/2014, EXP 12/2017 DOLA - EQ 07/2014, TU 06/2014 Deficient Balance - $0 Used to call like crazy but I went off on the CA and mentioned the FCRA and CFPB and they never called or sent a letter again back around 2015/2016. Portfolio Recovery - CA for OC DoFD - 02/2015 (date CA was assigned) DOLA - 08/2018 (stupidly made a payment to CA) Deficient Balance - $474 (started as $624) Made a payment in late 2018 to CA then stopped. Got a letter or two from them then they went away. OC was Synchrony Bank for a Care Credit CC. Progressive Insurance - Place with CA by OC DoFD - 04/2019 (date CA was assigned) Deficient Balance - $212 Assigned with CA Caine Weiner. Had a car repo'd and forgot to cancel the insurance. OC for car called file claim and insurance company cancelled policy once notified of the repo. In addition to the baddies I have about 8 old addresses listed under the CRAs Inquiries EQ 3 hard from two car dealers (10/12/2018, 10/16/2018, 10/19/2018) Never signed anything and it looks like dealer pulled over the phone when calling about trying to trade in car to avoid repo by Cap1 from above. 15 soft Mostly Credit Karma and Lexis Nexis from shopping auto insurance rates. TU 1 hard from 10/19/2018 car dealer 17 soft (same reasons as EQ) EXP 1 hard from 10/19/2018 car dealer 29 soft Same reason as above and some skip tracing via repo companies. Scores Fico 8 Scores EQ - 490 TU - 496 EXP - 523 Next Steps Taken Opt'd Out - 02/2020 Gearing up to get old addresses removed from CR Approved for Self Lender Account 12 installments at $48 Goals Get scores of to 600. No specific time frame but, to be accountable 12-18 month in my case seems fair. Questions With derogs this old should I just rebuild for the year via Self Lender and maybe a Secure CC in 3-6 month and let the derogs fall off in late 2021? EXP has the complete wrong date of birth listed for me as 12/31/1987. Trying to age me I guess. Dispute this at the same time as the addresses showing proof via license? Should I settle any of these accounts? If any I would consider the Cap1 Auto loan since they offered $2358 and the balance is over $11k. PFD on the CAs or DV first? Any guidance looking at my credit profile is appreciated!! 🤗
  5. I'm at a 802 credit score. I've never been in collections and while I have debt, it is all student loan debt that I am paying. I've never had to help someone with bad credit before. We are both in our late 20's. Her score is around a 630 transunion and 700 equifax. I finally got a new job and moved my fiancee from Texas to NY. We are interested in getting married and getting a house/moving for her degree in 1 to 3 years. She does have some credit problems that we would like to take care of. She's never had anyone tell her how to handle credit or anything, so she is oblivious to it all. She has medical collections because her mother told her that she paid her medical bills at the time, but she actually did not, and she took her at good faith for this. I am helping her learn but it takes time. She has about 1100 to 1700 total in collections. Trans-union and Equifax somewhat show the same thing just Equifax show's t-mobile and transunion does not. All of her collections other than T-Mobile are medical based. She has 7 collections total, with phoenix financial having 3 of them all from the same date. She also has a charged off card not showing in collections. Paying them off isn't a issue as she has more then enough to pay them all in full, but I want to get everything I can off of her account. All of these collections are from texas prior to her move here in NY. The amounts I posted below are not the exact amounts but close. First Electronic Bank - 600$ - Closed End of 2014 (5 Yrs Old) - Charged off as bad debt, profit and loss write-off - (Not showing in collections, only under closed accounts) Wakefield & Associates - $600 - Opened End of 2015 Merch & Prof CollBur - $15 Opened End of 2015 Creditors Bureau USA - $230 - Opened Mid 2018 - Consumer disputes this account information, meets FCRA requirements (She told me she's never disputed anything) Pheonix Financial Serv - $124+130+91 - Opened Mid 2019 Convergent Outsourcing - $367 OC = T-MOBILE Opened - Mid 2019 I'm reading through all the HIPPA stuff on this forum but it's a lot to take in at once, any advice for us? I want to keep communication on the phone at the minimum with any CRA.
  6. In 2016 and parts of 2017, I've had a few credit cards go into collections. 1. Credit Card from a bank is about $20,000.00 2. Credit Card from a store is about $5000.00 3. Credit Card from a bank is about $5000.00 4. Credit Card from a bank is about $3000.00 At the time I was not working and did not know about negotiating/settling . I am now working, making about a small $33K a year. Should I pay off this debt? Do I call the collection agency's and pay it off? What's the best route to take? Best
  7. I am looking for some advice. I am able to make all of my payments, but I feel like I'm spinning my wheels and getting nowhere. At the end of the month, I have approx. $290 leftover as "discretionary income", but this goes towards gas, groceries, etc. Any extra cash I get, I throw at my debt, but that means I have $0 to add to my savings. Since I have $0 savings, anytime I have an emergency (like a medical issue), I end up having to put it on a credit card, pushing me futher into debt. I would like to avoid bankruptcy, because I don't want to lose my car or house. With $16k in credit card debit alone, I'm wondering if that's my best option though? I know my federal student loans will keep haunting me for life regardless, so I'm honestly just paying the bare minimum to avoid harrasment/garnishments. I'm also practically underwater on my car. . . I was quoted it's worth at $6,900. CC 1 CC 2 CC 3 CC 4 Car Loan Personal Loan Federal Student Loans Mortgage Total Debt Balance $8,462 $4,673 $2,267 $1,230 $7,508 $8,099 $59,850 $101,358 $193,447 Interest Rates 18.00% 0.00% 23.15% 23.99% Payments per Month $150 $100 $70 $40 $295 $328 $217 $730 $1,930.00 Utilities, etc. per Month $580.00 Bring Home $$ per Month $2,800.00 Leftover $290.00
  8. Hi, this is my first post here as I'm kind of stuck in a situation and need help. After moving out from my previous apartment in Indiana, I forgot to pay the electric bill (Duke Energy) for the final month which I did not realize until 4 days ago when I saw a collections record on my credit report. Now I did not receive any communication from the CA or OC regarding the debt until I saw the CR. I have not yet talked to either the CA or OC, but I’m more than willing to pay the whole debt amount ASAP, but would like to get the collections record removed from my CR. I’m a foreign national and do not know much about such processes, but I don’t want a near $100 debt stain my credit score for years to come. I have read some of the discussions in this forum on this topic, and understand that I should first talk to the OC and get the debt settled. What I'm not clear about is what steps I should undertake after that. I would highly appreciate if someone could guide me with this or share their personal experiences in such situations. Thanks for helping out!
  9. Hi, I'm new here and got a notice from a credit agency on my private student loan. It's been 3 years since I last paid as I was contesting the amount and got sick. I signed for the loan in D.C. and the loan originated in OH. I now live in OH. I also stopped paying while I lived in NY (before I moved to OH). I just got a letter from a CA based in NY state (don't know if the CA state location makes any difference). My question is which SOL will apply? OH, NY or the shorter DC SOL of 3 years? OH has a number of SOLs, 6 years, 8 years so I'm not sure which SOL would even apply to the promissory note for the bank based in OH. How could I look this up at a law library. I'm not very familiar with the process if anyone could help with legal research ideas? I'm also contesting the validity of the loan because the promissory note states that the repayment period is 240 months and I think I have passed this point. Any help I can find would help a long way; very stressed out by this situation---there are so many ways this could go---if the CA goes through with a judgment and wage garnishment (I'm disabled and earn a very small part time income) can they revive the judgment every five years for 15 years (OH) even after the SOL expires on the private loan itself (3 yrs DC SOL, 6 yrs NY SOL, 6 or 8 yrs SOL OH)? I don't know if I should just ignore the CA or write them to dispute this loan (and risk waking the sleeping giant) or wake the sleeping giant with a dispute letter and prepare myself to go to court (have no idea how I would defend myself but would like to dispute amount of the loan, SOL etc). This all seems very risky. Can this debt sold to a credit agency be invalid?
  10. I have an account from Ocwen ( mortgage company )that have late payments from 3 years ago. the account is closed and paid in full but I have massive amount of late payments I been disputing this account for a year it finally The account was deleted from my Equifax report bringing that score up to 807. My fingers are crossed because my Experian have 3 more days to get deleted. But my TransUnion was updated as accurate leaving my score 709. My question is> If I dispute the TransUnion account again will Experian and Equifax update showing late payments again? I think this happened in the past but I not sure. Right now Im Exp. 800 Equifax 807 and Transuntion 709
  11. I have a new business and am looking to get a business credit card. I have a mid 700 credit score and I have a navy fcu credit card and a citi credit card that I have received within the past month. I also have three au accounts on my report. What card should I be applying for
  12. I have Ex 710 but my TU and EQ are crap. My driving record is clean and I'm over 40, my rate should be low but amfam is using my TU score and thus my premium is nuts. When I called a person working in my agent's office she said they draw from all of them which I know is not true because I just got a letter from my insurance company saying that they had just pulled me on TU to rate me. So rather than call all over the countryside and get the same answer from people because they don't know what I'm really asking or they don't actually know the information I'm looking for, I'm asking here because this is where the experts are. What auto insurance company pulls Experian? Thanks
  13. So I have a Credit One card and recently got a CLI bump on it so I'm up to $550, but after reading some posts here, I'm hearing that it looks bad to have it. I don't necessarily need it because I have a Cap 1 Platimun ($850), a Wells Fargo ($600 secured) &, a Discover IT ($500 secured). The Credit One is the youngest of all the cards, only a year old. I had another credit one card about a decade ago that charged off and a weird thing happened. After months of paying on time with this new card, the old account reports as closed, but with 2 years of all positive payment history. I'm grateful for that... don't know how it happened, but cool. So I got this new card just to boost my overall credit, but now I'm thinking that was a mistake(except for the change in reporting of the older account). I understand that when I close it, it will remain a "stain" on my account for 10 years. Is it that big of a deal, though? Can somebody give me some examples of how having it there can affect my credit... score, chances of approval for credit, credit limits... etc.? Will closing the account make much difference in the short term since it will still be a stain?
  14. Utilization Consolidation Optimization only using EX HELP! Scores EQ538 TU587 EX638 Amex blue 10K / 4K bal Amex Every 10K / 7500 bal BOA Alaska Air 4500/ 3900 bal DISC 6300/ 4200 bal BECU 2K/ 1500 bal Cap 1 800/ 0 bal CITI 1K/0 bal Credit one 950/ 0 bal First Premier 1K / 0 bal First Premier 400/ 0 bal Student loan 9500/ 9270 bal I was at 690-710 on my scores then loaded my cards, killing my scores from over utilization. Along the way I was dealing with a federal agency penalty which before it got through with the appeal/contesting/adjudication the person I was dealing with retired, and the division of the agency closed now sending all penalties directly to Treasury. Soooo Treasury’s Bureau Of Fiscal Service is the taxpayers collection agency and they are tough. Sent me a notice of intent to garnish me (they can only take 15% after tax) and hit EQ and TU with a 40K collection! One of the listings said the account start date was 01/01/0001 that’s 1000 years before the crusades. So my credit repair person immediately verify challenges them. They have now come back twice updated with more info and amounts claimed, My insurance will cover part of it and I have a attorney doing the adjudication challenge with Treasury but the process is slow, maybe a year. So even though the debt is not being avoided by me, and hasn’t been confirmed, they are jamming me up on the bureaus. Im trying a third time verification with EQ TU maybe the govt shutdown will help them miss the 60 day window. But I’m dead on those bureaus. I tried my CU but they pulled TU and that’s how I found out about the Treasury listing. HELP: I know my EX score is low from loading up my cards, won’t a consolidation loan get my score back up? EX has 5 inquires 3/18 11/17 11/17 11/17 10/17 I’ve gotten the typical mailing from BestEgg and was about to click the button but waited, wanting more info. Here on Pulls it looks like they only pull EX? I need to figure out how, if it’s possible for me to do this. In the mean time I need to get a car, a person I’ve been working with says the finance person has banks that only pull EX. I have a good job, 70K at it 8 months, went to school last year to get the job. years of credit history, only 3 lates from over two years ago. Qs: 1. Where how to get consolidation loan to put out card fires. 2. Apply for consolidation or car loan first? 3. If I can get more then I need on consolidation should I take it and use extra to pay down balance then it will show less then 100% on my report and now count as bad? 4. Is there any hope I can pull this off? 5. The BestEgg prequalified offer is good only till Jan 9 so time is ASAP crucial, I haven't clicked through on it yet so they haven't run me, and they are emailing me to continue. Thank you for any and all help!!!!!
  15. Hi everyone! Just joined the community after hearing great things on an number of personal finance forums. I'm trying to rebuild my credit so that I can get a good mortgage hopefully by the end of 2020. Specifically, I'd like to increase my score from 568 to above 700 -- I know that's ambitious. Some positives. Several weeks ago, I paid off the remaining balance on my CC debt. I'm now in the middle of consolidating my student loan debt, which racks up to about $42K. I'll begin making monthly payments as soon as that process is complete. The not so good. The student loan debt mentioned above. I also have four collection / chargeoff accounts at Cap 1 (x2), Discover, Wells Fargo and Discover. I don't know where to start. I've recently tried applying online for a number of secured credit cards with Cap 1, Discover and Citi but have been denied due to my past issues. Are there any banks that will accept me? What are my other options? Any advice is welcome and I'm ready to do whatever it takes to reach or move closer towards my goal. For what it's worth, salary is between $100K and $120K and paying about $1.3K in rent every month.
  16. 🤨WHAT SHOULD I DO NEXT TO BUILD MY PROFILE 🤔 5YRS/OLD BUSINESS ONLY 1 TRADELINE REPORTING TO D&B : SPRINT BUSINESS CELL PHONE PAYDEX 80 VIRTUAL ADDRESS THROUGH IPOSTAL 1800# THROUGH GRASSHOPPER NET 30 VENDORS QUILL ULINE SUMMAS _ CREDIT LINE $1000 BP UNIVERSAL GAS MASTER CARD _ CREDIT LINE $500 SPRINT BUSINESS PHONE GRAINGER SUPPLY WORKS DENIED FEDEX OFFICE Thank you for joining FedEx Office. During your enrollment; you requested a credit account for print. Using the information, you provided – we were unable to extend credit on behalf of your company. However, we did create a discount account for you. You can use this account number to receive a discount on printing at any one of our 1800+ FedEx Office locations and online.
  17. SORRY IF THIS IS TOO LONG WINDED! I'm in my early 20's looking to clean up my credit due to some naiveness as an 18-year-old. My goal is to get to a point where I can be approved for higher level credit cards and eventually buy a home. I've read most of the posts in the newbie section and am preparing to start sending letters, but I wanted to run my strategy by someone first and hopefully get some advice. The collection I am referring to is below: Afni, Inc. ( Cox Communications ) - Reporting on TU and EQ Amount: $523 (same as the amount from Cox) DOFD: (not reported on Afni collection) my statements show - 12/2015 Date Opened: 04/2018 First Reported: 05/2018 *note* I do not recall ever receiving a dunning letter from Afni *note* before CB I didn't know what I was doing and called Afni to ask what this was and how to get rid of it. Was told I had to pay it and they couldn't remove it but only mark it paid in full. Never paid it and was offered a settlement by them which I did call and discuss with them but ultimately never sent a payment. My state law says this doesn't reage the debt, thank goodness. Arizona sol is 3 years for an oral contract or open account and 6 years for a written contract or credit card. I never signed a contract with Cox, they have a user agreement. I'm assuming the agreement meets the qualifications for a written contract so the sol is through 12/2022. If I'm mistaken in this then I don't think the agreement is legally enforceable ( doubt this is the case ). I'm hesitant to pursue the 1-2 punch because I would like to keep the option of paying the OC directly open in the future (I can submit a payment online) and want to keep the CRA out of it for now. Further, I'm unsure what the likelihood of a lawsuit is in this case if it's within the sol so I don't wanna push it. So, my strategy is to send a simple DV the CA to request information they hopefully don't want to provide and find out if they own the debt outright: "[Your name] [Your return address] [Date] [Debt collector name] [Debt collector Address] Re: [Account number for the debt, if you have it] Dear [Debt collector name]: After reading an article recently about the occurrence of incorrect information being reported to credit reporting bureaus I've become concerned. For this reason, I would like to utilize my rights under the FDCPA guidelines to request that validation of all information pertaining to Acct name, acct # listed on my report is correct and valid. I also request the name and address of the original creditor, the original debt's amount, and proof that I owe this debt to you be provided. Or, please delete this in accordance with my civil rights protected under Federal Law. Be advised it is inconvenient for me to accept phone calls or any other method of communication other than US mail regarding this matter. Please communicate accordingly. Sincerely, Me Dawg" If they own the debt outright then I'm most likely going to send a more detailed DV targeted at JDB along with DV to the CRA. If they are a true CA I will most likely use the Pay OC strategy. Any input or advice would be very helpful!!!
  18. Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum but was recommended to come here for advice. I'm currently a freshman in college and recently turned 19. I currently have two credit cards: Bank of America Cash Rewards (had for 12 months and $2500 limit) and Discover It Student Cash Back card (had for 3 months and $1250 limit). My current creditkarma score is 718 and I attached my credit factors from there. I'm always looking for ways to open more accounts and to improve my spending power and score. I never put anything on interest and don't plan to use a full balance on either of my cards every month at least while I'm in school. Balance transfer is also not a priority. I also have no student loans so in have no large balances to pay off. Rewards (whether cash back or points) are my biggest need in a new card, and low to zero annual fee as well since Im not spending a huge amount at the moment. I'm looking for a new credit card to apply for. Through my own research, I've found that Citi Double Cash card is a great for rewards for myself but it may be a little too far out of my reach (I applied for it about 6 months ago and they didn't even do a hard pull). I'd also like to start earning recognition by Amex and the BlueCash EveryDay card sounds quite good, especially the absence of an annual fee. But, of course, I'm not an expert and that's why I came here. Also I'm impatient and want to apply soon, but if waiting longer will be more beneficial in the long run, I can wait. My monthly spending during the school year is mostly comprised of food (evenly split between restaurants and fast food), spending on airfare and hotels, online shopping on amazon and Best Buy, and shopping at the local Walmart for groceries. I average about $300-$600 per month but it varies wildly. During the summer I actually work above minimum wage in Arizona so my cash flow will probably be about double. Also I expect to spend more on travel and food over the summer as well, with much less spent at Walmart and more spent at grocery stores. Since I'm still very new to this, I'm just looking for some advice. Should I wait longer before applying for a new card? Should I try for another student card? Are you bullish on Amex or should I try focusing on their travel and rewards benefits? Thank you for the help, Xenoz P.S. My only other dream from a credit card it for it to have contactless payment but I know this is very rare here in the states.
  19. I’m looking for more tradeline accounts with a net 30. Some are harder to get or they don’t report to D&B or Experian. Thank you
  20. I have been informed by all 3 credit bureaus that due to a lack of activity, they cannot generate a score for me. For years, I believed that I had toilet-bow bad credit because I've always been turned down for credit. I have had a lot of medical collections on my reports over the past 9 years or so and about 2 student loans (at 2 seperate times and one of which I paid off completely in about the year 2012 or so). Currently, I have less than $3,000 in debt, about 7 medical collections, 1 or 2 student loans, and about 17 hard inquiries total between all 3 bureaus. All collections on my credit report is at least 5 years old. About 3 of those hard inquries are within the last 2 months, the other ones are at least 6 months old (Had I known Carmax would pull my credit multiple times, I wouldnt've have used them to try and purchase a vehicle; this is where a lot of those hard pulls came from!). I currently have a decent income and have very few monthly expenses (no rent/mortgage, daycare, car note, etc.- just my phone bill, groceries (for 1), and very minimal budget for clothes, entertainment and misc. My question is, is there a non-secured credit card that I am likely to be approved for/is geared for people like me with old collections, a moderate number of inquiries, no credit score, but a decent income? I just recieved an OpenSky Secured card ($200 deposit and $200 limit) and I am waiting on my Capital One Secured card ($250 deposit and $350 limit) to come in the mail. Thanks in advance, everyone!
  21. I had a rental property that was part of a business dealing that went bad. The property was on the brink of foreclosure when we were finally able to settle and sell. Bank (and taxes, HOA, etc) all were paid in full. This was not a short sale, or settlement of debt. Realistically, when would I start to see my credit score increase? This house was the only negative on my credit report (unfortunately a large one) and was nearly 2-years behind when everything was resolved. Score dropped about 150 points when the payments were falling behind. Other debt is minimal. Just primary residence ($200k and 5 years of on-time payments) and a school loan ($6k remaining). Credit cards are used for daily transactions, but are always paid in full. No other late payments, collections, or anything of the sort for 15 years plus. Bank is showing the mortgage account as closed, but it doesn't appear that it was marked as "Paid in Full." Related question, I see that typically late payments fall off of the credit report 7 years after "first notice." Does that mean at the 7 year mark, that all vanishes, or is it a rolling 7-year (as the last late payment filing was 2 years after the first, so it would be 2 years from now?). Thank you.
  22. Hello, I'm a recent college grad and looking to boost my credit. Currently have an account with Discover IT, CL @ 6600 (they increased my limit 5000 4mos ago) and a credit union Master Card @ 500. According to the Discover FICO8 Scorecard, I'm currently 798. What additional credit cards or steps would you recommend to boost credit limit?
  23. Hello All, My oldest daughter is 18 almost 19, and has had a job for about 10 months now. She has had a checking and savings account for about that time as well. Both have over $1500 in each account. She is a student and works around 15-20 hours a week. What would be the best option for her in terms of starting her credit profile? Would a student credit card be best, or would it be best for me to add her as an AU one of my cards? I have a Cap1 QS with a $4600 limit that has no balance and is hardly ever used. Would it best for her to be an AU and pay it off every moths for six months or so and then apply for her own card? Thanks in advice for the advice!
  24. Hello everyone, I am a student who recently moved to the States for a student exchange. I have lived in Europe all my life, but I am half American (I have dual citizenship of the US and the Netherlands). I have an American passport and a social security number. For a lot of things (like getting a checking account, credit card or even an apartment) I need to be able to confirm my social security number and/or obtain my current credit score. However, this seems impossible to do without entering a US address. I have tried websites like Credit Karma and Nerdwallet but all of them require the entry of a US address. I have never before lived in the US so I can't fill this in! Is there anyone out there with a similar situation, or at least with some advice on how to obtain my credit score? I can't be the only dual citizen who's never been a resident here! Thank you!
  25. Living in Texas and law firm has Texas address. Was contacted by Rausch Sturm law firm who say they are representing portfolio recovery associates. They list the original owner of debt as Barclays credit card so I know it’s real. I want to pay the debt. It isn’t past the 4 year statute in Texas because original debt is from 2016. However, They do not indicate an offer. They just indicate I can contact them via phone or mail to discuss options. Should I wait till they make an offer? Should I call them or write a letter? I’ve seen websites discussing advantages of both calling and mailing so I’m not sure. I can afford to pay as much as 2000 of the listed 10k. Or can I do some kind of hardship payment plan? The law firm haven’t offered either option. Portfolio Recovery did, but I guess these guys have the debt now, so should I make a first offer or wait?

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