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Found 39 results

  1. SORRY IF THIS IS TOO LONG WINDED! I'm in my early 20's looking to clean up my credit due to some naiveness as an 18-year-old. My goal is to get to a point where I can be approved for higher level credit cards and eventually buy a home. I've read most of the posts in the newbie section and am preparing to start sending letters, but I wanted to run my strategy by someone first and hopefully get some advice. The collection I am referring to is below: Afni, Inc. ( Cox Communications ) - Reporting on TU and EQ Amount: $523 (same as the amount from Cox) DOFD: (not reported on Afni collection) my statements show - 12/2015 Date Opened: 04/2018 First Reported: 05/2018 *note* I do not recall ever receiving a dunning letter from Afni *note* before CB I didn't know what I was doing and called Afni to ask what this was and how to get rid of it. Was told I had to pay it and they couldn't remove it but only mark it paid in full. Never paid it and was offered a settlement by them which I did call and discuss with them but ultimately never sent a payment. My state law says this doesn't reage the debt, thank goodness. Arizona sol is 3 years for an oral contract or open account and 6 years for a written contract or credit card. I never signed a contract with Cox, they have a user agreement. I'm assuming the agreement meets the qualifications for a written contract so the sol is through 12/2022. If I'm mistaken in this then I don't think the agreement is legally enforceable ( doubt this is the case ). I'm hesitant to pursue the 1-2 punch because I would like to keep the option of paying the OC directly open in the future (I can submit a payment online) and want to keep the CRA out of it for now. Further, I'm unsure what the likelihood of a lawsuit is in this case if it's within the sol so I don't wanna push it. So, my strategy is to send a simple DV the CA to request information they hopefully don't want to provide and find out if they own the debt outright: "[Your name] [Your return address] [Date] [Debt collector name] [Debt collector Address] Re: [Account number for the debt, if you have it] Dear [Debt collector name]: After reading an article recently about the occurrence of incorrect information being reported to credit reporting bureaus I've become concerned. For this reason, I would like to utilize my rights under the FDCPA guidelines to request that validation of all information pertaining to Acct name, acct # listed on my report is correct and valid. I also request the name and address of the original creditor, the original debt's amount, and proof that I owe this debt to you be provided. Or, please delete this in accordance with my civil rights protected under Federal Law. Be advised it is inconvenient for me to accept phone calls or any other method of communication other than US mail regarding this matter. Please communicate accordingly. Sincerely, Me Dawg" If they own the debt outright then I'm most likely going to send a more detailed DV targeted at JDB along with DV to the CRA. If they are a true CA I will most likely use the Pay OC strategy. Any input or advice would be very helpful!!!
  2. Just thought I would post this in order to save someone else some time. After waiting for about 2-3 months for my trade lines to post to no avail, I decided to make some phone calls to vendors who I thought may report to DNB. Here are my results: Quill - Still reports. Have to make a purchase of at least $50 and wait 19 days to pay it. (I hate this personally) Uline - Still reports. Not sure what their terms are. Grainger - Have not been able to get an account with them because they are saying you must be incorporated for at least 3 months until they approve an account with you. EzPromos - Do not report Amsterdam Printing - Do not report SupplyWorks - Do not report MSC Industrial - Do not report These are based on the individuals I spoke with in each respective business's credit department. If anyone has their purchases reporting with the vendors that I stated do not report, feel free to comment and start a discussion. Also, if anyone know of any other Net30 vendors that reports to DNB, lets start a thread.

  3. Hi everyone! Just joined the community after hearing great things on an number of personal finance forums. I'm trying to rebuild my credit so that I can get a good mortgage hopefully by the end of 2020. Specifically, I'd like to increase my score from 568 to above 700 -- I know that's ambitious. Some positives. Several weeks ago, I paid off the remaining balance on my CC debt. I'm now in the middle of consolidating my student loan debt, which racks up to about $42K. I'll begin making monthly payments as soon as that process is complete. The not so good. The student loan debt mentioned above. I also have four collection / chargeoff accounts at Cap 1 (x2), Discover, Wells Fargo and Discover. I don't know where to start. I've recently tried applying online for a number of secured credit cards with Cap 1, Discover and Citi but have been denied due to my past issues. Are there any banks that will accept me? What are my other options? Any advice is welcome and I'm ready to do whatever it takes to reach or move closer towards my goal. For what it's worth, salary is between $100K and $120K and paying about $1.3K in rent every month.
  4. 🤨WHAT SHOULD I DO NEXT TO BUILD MY PROFILE 🤔 5YRS/OLD BUSINESS ONLY 1 TRADELINE REPORTING TO D&B : SPRINT BUSINESS CELL PHONE PAYDEX 80 VIRTUAL ADDRESS THROUGH IPOSTAL 1800# THROUGH GRASSHOPPER NET 30 VENDORS QUILL ULINE SUMMAS _ CREDIT LINE $1000 BP UNIVERSAL GAS MASTER CARD _ CREDIT LINE $500 SPRINT BUSINESS PHONE GRAINGER SUPPLY WORKS DENIED FEDEX OFFICE Thank you for joining FedEx Office. During your enrollment; you requested a credit account for print. Using the information, you provided – we were unable to extend credit on behalf of your company. However, we did create a discount account for you. You can use this account number to receive a discount on printing at any one of our 1800+ FedEx Office locations and online.
  5. Utilization Consolidation Optimization only using EX HELP! Scores EQ538 TU587 EX638 Amex blue 10K / 4K bal Amex Every 10K / 7500 bal BOA Alaska Air 4500/ 3900 bal DISC 6300/ 4200 bal BECU 2K/ 1500 bal Cap 1 800/ 0 bal CITI 1K/0 bal Credit one 950/ 0 bal First Premier 1K / 0 bal First Premier 400/ 0 bal Student loan 9500/ 9270 bal I was at 690-710 on my scores then loaded my cards, killing my scores from over utilization. Along the way I was dealing with a federal agency penalty which before it got through with the appeal/contesting/adjudication the person I was dealing with retired, and the division of the agency closed now sending all penalties directly to Treasury. Soooo Treasury’s Bureau Of Fiscal Service is the taxpayers collection agency and they are tough. Sent me a notice of intent to garnish me (they can only take 15% after tax) and hit EQ and TU with a 40K collection! One of the listings said the account start date was 01/01/0001 that’s 1000 years before the crusades. So my credit repair person immediately verify challenges them. They have now come back twice updated with more info and amounts claimed, My insurance will cover part of it and I have a attorney doing the adjudication challenge with Treasury but the process is slow, maybe a year. So even though the debt is not being avoided by me, and hasn’t been confirmed, they are jamming me up on the bureaus. Im trying a third time verification with EQ TU maybe the govt shutdown will help them miss the 60 day window. But I’m dead on those bureaus. I tried my CU but they pulled TU and that’s how I found out about the Treasury listing. HELP: I know my EX score is low from loading up my cards, won’t a consolidation loan get my score back up? EX has 5 inquires 3/18 11/17 11/17 11/17 10/17 I’ve gotten the typical mailing from BestEgg and was about to click the button but waited, wanting more info. Here on Pulls it looks like they only pull EX? I need to figure out how, if it’s possible for me to do this. In the mean time I need to get a car, a person I’ve been working with says the finance person has banks that only pull EX. I have a good job, 70K at it 8 months, went to school last year to get the job. years of credit history, only 3 lates from over two years ago. Qs: 1. Where how to get consolidation loan to put out card fires. 2. Apply for consolidation or car loan first? 3. If I can get more then I need on consolidation should I take it and use extra to pay down balance then it will show less then 100% on my report and now count as bad? 4. Is there any hope I can pull this off? 5. The BestEgg prequalified offer is good only till Jan 9 so time is ASAP crucial, I haven't clicked through on it yet so they haven't run me, and they are emailing me to continue. Thank you for any and all help!!!!!
  6. Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum but was recommended to come here for advice. I'm currently a freshman in college and recently turned 19. I currently have two credit cards: Bank of America Cash Rewards (had for 12 months and $2500 limit) and Discover It Student Cash Back card (had for 3 months and $1250 limit). My current creditkarma score is 718 and I attached my credit factors from there. I'm always looking for ways to open more accounts and to improve my spending power and score. I never put anything on interest and don't plan to use a full balance on either of my cards every month at least while I'm in school. Balance transfer is also not a priority. I also have no student loans so in have no large balances to pay off. Rewards (whether cash back or points) are my biggest need in a new card, and low to zero annual fee as well since Im not spending a huge amount at the moment. I'm looking for a new credit card to apply for. Through my own research, I've found that Citi Double Cash card is a great for rewards for myself but it may be a little too far out of my reach (I applied for it about 6 months ago and they didn't even do a hard pull). I'd also like to start earning recognition by Amex and the BlueCash EveryDay card sounds quite good, especially the absence of an annual fee. But, of course, I'm not an expert and that's why I came here. Also I'm impatient and want to apply soon, but if waiting longer will be more beneficial in the long run, I can wait. My monthly spending during the school year is mostly comprised of food (evenly split between restaurants and fast food), spending on airfare and hotels, online shopping on amazon and Best Buy, and shopping at the local Walmart for groceries. I average about $300-$600 per month but it varies wildly. During the summer I actually work above minimum wage in Arizona so my cash flow will probably be about double. Also I expect to spend more on travel and food over the summer as well, with much less spent at Walmart and more spent at grocery stores. Since I'm still very new to this, I'm just looking for some advice. Should I wait longer before applying for a new card? Should I try for another student card? Are you bullish on Amex or should I try focusing on their travel and rewards benefits? Thank you for the help, Xenoz P.S. My only other dream from a credit card it for it to have contactless payment but I know this is very rare here in the states.
  7. I’m looking for more tradeline accounts with a net 30. Some are harder to get or they don’t report to D&B or Experian. Thank you
  8. I have been informed by all 3 credit bureaus that due to a lack of activity, they cannot generate a score for me. For years, I believed that I had toilet-bow bad credit because I've always been turned down for credit. I have had a lot of medical collections on my reports over the past 9 years or so and about 2 student loans (at 2 seperate times and one of which I paid off completely in about the year 2012 or so). Currently, I have less than $3,000 in debt, about 7 medical collections, 1 or 2 student loans, and about 17 hard inquiries total between all 3 bureaus. All collections on my credit report is at least 5 years old. About 3 of those hard inquries are within the last 2 months, the other ones are at least 6 months old (Had I known Carmax would pull my credit multiple times, I wouldnt've have used them to try and purchase a vehicle; this is where a lot of those hard pulls came from!). I currently have a decent income and have very few monthly expenses (no rent/mortgage, daycare, car note, etc.- just my phone bill, groceries (for 1), and very minimal budget for clothes, entertainment and misc. My question is, is there a non-secured credit card that I am likely to be approved for/is geared for people like me with old collections, a moderate number of inquiries, no credit score, but a decent income? I just recieved an OpenSky Secured card ($200 deposit and $200 limit) and I am waiting on my Capital One Secured card ($250 deposit and $350 limit) to come in the mail. Thanks in advance, everyone!
  9. I had a rental property that was part of a business dealing that went bad. The property was on the brink of foreclosure when we were finally able to settle and sell. Bank (and taxes, HOA, etc) all were paid in full. This was not a short sale, or settlement of debt. Realistically, when would I start to see my credit score increase? This house was the only negative on my credit report (unfortunately a large one) and was nearly 2-years behind when everything was resolved. Score dropped about 150 points when the payments were falling behind. Other debt is minimal. Just primary residence ($200k and 5 years of on-time payments) and a school loan ($6k remaining). Credit cards are used for daily transactions, but are always paid in full. No other late payments, collections, or anything of the sort for 15 years plus. Bank is showing the mortgage account as closed, but it doesn't appear that it was marked as "Paid in Full." Related question, I see that typically late payments fall off of the credit report 7 years after "first notice." Does that mean at the 7 year mark, that all vanishes, or is it a rolling 7-year (as the last late payment filing was 2 years after the first, so it would be 2 years from now?). Thank you.
  10. Hello, I'm a recent college grad and looking to boost my credit. Currently have an account with Discover IT, CL @ 6600 (they increased my limit 5000 4mos ago) and a credit union Master Card @ 500. According to the Discover FICO8 Scorecard, I'm currently 798. What additional credit cards or steps would you recommend to boost credit limit?
  11. Hello All, My oldest daughter is 18 almost 19, and has had a job for about 10 months now. She has had a checking and savings account for about that time as well. Both have over $1500 in each account. She is a student and works around 15-20 hours a week. What would be the best option for her in terms of starting her credit profile? Would a student credit card be best, or would it be best for me to add her as an AU one of my cards? I have a Cap1 QS with a $4600 limit that has no balance and is hardly ever used. Would it best for her to be an AU and pay it off every moths for six months or so and then apply for her own card? Thanks in advice for the advice!
  12. Hello everyone, I am a student who recently moved to the States for a student exchange. I have lived in Europe all my life, but I am half American (I have dual citizenship of the US and the Netherlands). I have an American passport and a social security number. For a lot of things (like getting a checking account, credit card or even an apartment) I need to be able to confirm my social security number and/or obtain my current credit score. However, this seems impossible to do without entering a US address. I have tried websites like Credit Karma and Nerdwallet but all of them require the entry of a US address. I have never before lived in the US so I can't fill this in! Is there anyone out there with a similar situation, or at least with some advice on how to obtain my credit score? I can't be the only dual citizen who's never been a resident here! Thank you!
  13. Living in Texas and law firm has Texas address. Was contacted by Rausch Sturm law firm who say they are representing portfolio recovery associates. They list the original owner of debt as Barclays credit card so I know it’s real. I want to pay the debt. It isn’t past the 4 year statute in Texas because original debt is from 2016. However, They do not indicate an offer. They just indicate I can contact them via phone or mail to discuss options. Should I wait till they make an offer? Should I call them or write a letter? I’ve seen websites discussing advantages of both calling and mailing so I’m not sure. I can afford to pay as much as 2000 of the listed 10k. Or can I do some kind of hardship payment plan? The law firm haven’t offered either option. Portfolio Recovery did, but I guess these guys have the debt now, so should I make a first offer or wait?
  14. Hello, firstly please if I’m creating this topic incorrectly guide me to the right way to do so as im not that familiar with writing in forums as I am reading them. So im trying to help my girlfriend open a bank account because last year we did the dumbest thing imaginable. We basically tried to scam her old bank TD bank with checks and it worked for a little bit until the checks bounced and they closer her account. At the time of this she was 17 years old and on a joint account with her foster mother. Now the only reason we did this stupid xxxx is because we were basically poor and needed money and didn’t quite understand the repercussions of our actions. I believe the account closed with $2000 owed. We don’t know what became of the balance as she’s not with that foster mother anymore. Now fast foward a year later to now, she’s been without an account since then and we’ve done some research on banks that don’t use Chexsystem. We’ve tried Chime bank, bbva, wells fargo, United bank, green dot actually sent her a debit card but then told her to destroy the card. We’ve tried capital one also. All those are banks that we’ve found online that offer second chance accounts and don’t use Chexsystem. All of them denied her. Is it because we tried back to back? Is there really any way for to even get an account anymore? Any help or advice would truly be appreciated and once again forgive me if im in the wrong place posting this and direct me to the right place. Thank you all.
  15. Back in April of 2018, I paid off a $2,000 dept to Bank of America and I believed I was officially cleared of any debts. Now it's September of 2018 and I decided to check my credit score and noticed it was a lot lower! Noticed the reports all came from Bank of America and I contacted them regarding the issue. They specifically told me I had a $36 debt that was not paid since when I paid off my debt to $0. Confused and inexperienced of knowledge about credit cards and how they worked, I paid the $36.00 and told them to close my bank so this does not happen again. 2 days later, I received a confirmation email that my account was closed. Thought it was over? Nope. Now it's November and I decided to check on my score.. noticed that my score went down again! And of course, the problem was Bank of America again. Contacted them once more and they told me that there is a charge of $38 on my account that needs to be paid. I told them I paid it and have the receipt to email if needed. They told me that they had ZERO record of payment nor notifications that my account was closed. Note, when I called them in September, I contacted them through their mobile app as I always do, to prove that it was actually their number I called. What should I do? Who should I contact to fix this? I'm a college student that is trying to better my score before I graduate. Thank you.
  16. Hello, So, I have two 30-day late payments on my Capital One Credit Cards (one on each card) from Nov 2017. Before I left on military orders on September of 2017 for training, I called them and told them I was being deployed and wanted to try and pay the annual fee a few months in advance, so I wouldn’t have any late payments since I wouldn’t have any contact with the outside world for literally 9 whole months. They said they don’t charge military members the annual fee, and they would waive it for me. After getting back on May of 2018, I pulled my credit report and saw I had 1 missed payment reported on each card. And I’m still confused to this day why. I thought it was probably just a mistake, and I was accidentally charged the annual fees. So I called them, and they said it was from some pending charges as well. I remember leaving with no balance though, and some of the charges don’t seem too familiar to me. Especially one place that I don’t think I’ve ever even been too. My memory is a little foggy though, since it was last year. Even to this day, and being with Capital One for years, I’ve never missed a payment. That is the only time to this day that’s happened. After calling several times, they said I could mail in a credit dispute with the description of the situation and how I’d like it resolved. I was going to mail in this letter (down below) along with my military orders, and the credit reports of the dates the late payments were reported. I’m hoping to be able to get this removed, as it’s affecting me of getting a better interest rate on a loan I’ve been shopping for. Any thoughts or suggestions? https://imgur.com/a/KemMr0r
  17. Basically, I'm wondering if it's worth it to pay collections if they don't accept my pay for delete offer to pay the entire bill. How will my score be affected if I pay it? Collections said the status would become paid in full. I'm dealing with Frontier communications (isp) and Credit Control Corp. Corp claims they are a 3rd party and that they do not ever sell the debt and that they're not exactly a collections agency. But they're the one's who reported a past due bill on to 2 of my 3 credit beaurues accounts. And everyone I've talked to there claim that their policy is to never ever delete anything. I asked what if someone is innocent, and their response was that it doesn't "ruin" their credit. These are the steps I've taken: Got fresh copy of all 3 credit reports Requested removal from experian (deleted) and equifax (not deleted) Requested proof of debt twice (they claimed they sent it twice, but I looked pretty diligently for it) Talked to 4 different reps and 1 supervisor, left voicemail for 2 other supervisors but never got a call back. Recorded most conversations and stated I was recording. Sent a pay for delete letter stating I'd pay the whole thing in exchange for deletion and that my offer is valid for 15 days.
  18. So I have a Credit One card and recently got a CLI bump on it so I'm up to $550, but after reading some posts here, I'm hearing that it looks bad to have it. I don't necessarily need it because I have a Cap 1 Platimun ($850), a Wells Fargo ($600 secured) &, a Discover IT ($500 secured). The Credit One is the youngest of all the cards, only a year old. I had another credit one card about a decade ago that charged off and a weird thing happened. After months of paying on time with this new card, the old account reports as closed, but with 2 years of all positive payment history. I'm grateful for that... don't know how it happened, but cool. So I got this new card just to boost my overall credit, but now I'm thinking that was a mistake(except for the change in reporting of the older account). I understand that when I close it, it will remain a "stain" on my account for 10 years. Is it that big of a deal, though? Can somebody give me some examples of how having it there can affect my credit... score, chances of approval for credit, credit limits... etc.? Will closing the account make much difference in the short term since it will still be a stain?
  19. Folks, you have 2 choices: You can either sit there wondering why other people have what they have and can do what they can do, while you don't and can't, OR you can learn how to get what they have. I chose the latter. Here's my testimony: 10 months ago, my credit was so bad and scores were so low, I couldn't even borrow from myself (joke). I watched my brother fix up his and his wife's credit 15 years ago. Since then, they bought 2 homes, 1 in Baltimore and 1 in Pittsburgh. He was telling me that he was at the point where he could walk into any dealership and walk out with a new car, just like that, with no money down. I admit, I was kinda jealous of that. ME ON THE OTHER HAND, I remember one time coming home from driving over the road and trying to rent a car (with cash) for the weekend, and I couldn't because they required a credit card, which nobody in their right mind would ever give me. I was actually delusional enough to apply for a credit card. I'm surprised they didn't call the cops on me! 😂 I remember having to pay a huge deposit just to get a cell phone. 4 months after making a decision to fix my broken credit report, starting a credit repair program, learning the laws that govern debt collection practices, actually doing the work myself, as oppose to hiring some lame credit repair company (*caugh* Lexington Law) who just wants to make money off my misery, and learning how credit works, my credit scores went up nearly 200 points. My credit never looked this good in my life! Now, I'm getting approved for everything I couldn't before. All because I made a decision. Stop making excuses and start making that decision. Go get that house, car, loan, vacation, whatever it is you want or need that you think you can't.
  20. Hi all -- I'm new and happy to be here. Having already arbitrated with a P-to-P lender via JAMS and received a deletion and cash settlement, I am now ready to take on USAA. The issues are procedural (failure to report account as disputed to CRAs during lengthy direct dispute process) as well as substantive (duplicate account reporting for several months, inexplicably verified by EX and OC). My questions are these: When preparing the Demand for Arbitration for JAMS, is it best to include Experian as an additional defendant, or to arbitrate with them separately if necessary? I believe their TOS requires use of AAA. Does anyone have experience arbitrating with USAA? My inclination is that they will not settle as quickly as the P-to-P lender, who required some fight from me, but not all-out war. USAA seems like a different story. Note: I know that USAA uses AAA as the arbitration forum for credit card accounts, but I have a USAA FSB agreement that references JAMS, and the result letters USAA sent me all specifically come from USAA FSB, not the credit card operation.
  21. Hi, My namer is Jonathan Taylor I am posting to get help with a debt that I owe, that will go into collections. I do not have the funding to pay it off. so I need to know what are my other options? Please help thank you
  22. Hi new member, I have a question, I'm currently on a payment plan with NRA collection agency for about $5k in medical debt. Which i should have paid off within the next 6 months. But I want to know would it be wise to do the HIPPA process now to try to get it just removed from my report. and I still be able to make my monthly payments. Also they said they would remove it complete once the debt was paid in full.
  23. Hello all, Pulled my CR for the first time in 10 years. I am 50yrs old and noticed I had no new activity for the last 5 yrs...just my monthly mortgage pmt for the last 20 yrs and my truck loan paid off in 2013. Out of those two accounts I do have a lot of late payments. Mortgage (Chase) has 30 lates between Nov-2011/Sept-2017 and paid off closed truck (Santander) has 12 lates from Nov-2011/Feb-2013. trying to clean report up I did an online dispute with transunion thru Credit karma disputing all my lates. just got an email with dispute results stating the following below. Went straight to my CR and the only thing that changed was my name format. Just didn't know what the next step would be to try to rid of lates or if I should wait to see if anything changes/updates. didn't know changes if any should reflect immediately? Thanks, Noob Item Results Result: Disputed Information Updated And Other Information Updated - The item you were disputing has been updated, and there have also been some updates to your account info. You’ll see all of these changes on your report. Dispute Reasons Accuracy: The amounts, other than balance and/or past due, are incorrect. The payment history/rating is incorrect
  24. So I made a mistake and financed furniture for my first place. I was young and idoitic and signed a contract that stated all sales final. The contract also stated that I had seven days to get a refund for the merchandise. The merchandise was not in store and the company had to order it online. After a good nights sleep something felt off and I searched the furniture store and noticed most people got furniture that was nothing like what they wanted. I called both the financing company and the merchant to make good on their seven day policy. I never reccieved any furniture and did not walk away with anything. The merchant gave me the run around and said there was nothing they could do. The account was closed May 1st but re opened and charged May 14th. I disputed the charges as the furniture was never attempted to be delivered. I also mailed a cease and desist to both the merchant and the fiance company within the seven day period. The financing company said that I could not dispute the charges and that the contract was binding. I let them know that I still had not reccieved anything from the merchant and the financing company disputed it again. I checked my credit and the balance on the credit card dropped to zero. Is this because it’s in dispute? The balance did not decrease the first time I disputed it. I was young and made a mistake I’d just like to know my options.
  25. Trying to find a cosigner to help my daughter with student loans. I was asked to find out if a cosigner on a student loan has their own debt to income ratio effected by cosigning. Thanks for any help.

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