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Found 750 results

  1. SORRY IF THIS IS TOO LONG WINDED! I'm in my early 20's looking to clean up my credit due to some naiveness as an 18-year-old. My goal is to get to a point where I can be approved for higher level credit cards and eventually buy a home. I've read most of the posts in the newbie section and am preparing to start sending letters, but I wanted to run my strategy by someone first and hopefully get some advice. The collection I am referring to is below: Afni, Inc. ( Cox Communications ) - Reporting on TU and EQ Amount: $523 (same as the amount from Cox) DOFD: (not reported on Afni collection) my statements show - 12/2015 Date Opened: 04/2018 First Reported: 05/2018 *note* I do not recall ever receiving a dunning letter from Afni *note* before CB I didn't know what I was doing and called Afni to ask what this was and how to get rid of it. Was told I had to pay it and they couldn't remove it but only mark it paid in full. Never paid it and was offered a settlement by them which I did call and discuss with them but ultimately never sent a payment. My state law says this doesn't reage the debt, thank goodness. Arizona sol is 3 years for an oral contract or open account and 6 years for a written contract or credit card. I never signed a contract with Cox, they have a user agreement. I'm assuming the agreement meets the qualifications for a written contract so the sol is through 12/2022. If I'm mistaken in this then I don't think the agreement is legally enforceable ( doubt this is the case ). I'm hesitant to pursue the 1-2 punch because I would like to keep the option of paying the OC directly open in the future (I can submit a payment online) and want to keep the CRA out of it for now. Further, I'm unsure what the likelihood of a lawsuit is in this case if it's within the sol so I don't wanna push it. So, my strategy is to send a simple DV the CA to request information they hopefully don't want to provide and find out if they own the debt outright: "[Your name] [Your return address] [Date] [Debt collector name] [Debt collector Address] Re: [Account number for the debt, if you have it] Dear [Debt collector name]: After reading an article recently about the occurrence of incorrect information being reported to credit reporting bureaus I've become concerned. For this reason, I would like to utilize my rights under the FDCPA guidelines to request that validation of all information pertaining to Acct name, acct # listed on my report is correct and valid. I also request the name and address of the original creditor, the original debt's amount, and proof that I owe this debt to you be provided. Or, please delete this in accordance with my civil rights protected under Federal Law. Be advised it is inconvenient for me to accept phone calls or any other method of communication other than US mail regarding this matter. Please communicate accordingly. Sincerely, Me Dawg" If they own the debt outright then I'm most likely going to send a more detailed DV targeted at JDB along with DV to the CRA. If they are a true CA I will most likely use the Pay OC strategy. Any input or advice would be very helpful!!!
  2. I am a Texas resident and have 3 accounts that are past the SOL but the OC is still showing a Past Due balance and reporting it every month. All three OCs have not sold the debt off and are still the OCs. Because of this I think it is hurting my scores a lot more than other old debts that haven't reported anything in the past few years. Accounts are with NFCU Credit Card, Conns Credit Installment Loan, and SYNCB/SMRTCN (Synchrony Bank/PayPal). What should I do? Should I dispute and if so what tactic and letters should I use since these are OCs and not CAs? They are past the Texas SOL. I have disputed these is the past with basic dispute letters but nothing has been removed just verified.

  3. I'll try to keep the back story short. Basically I started a new business venture a couple years ago that didn't pan out like I planned and I increased my DTI and utilization significantly during this time in order to just keep up. About six months ago, I purchased another business (got out of the failing biz) and sold some assets to pay down debt and invest in this hopefully 🤞more successful venture. One of those cards was my Chase Sapphire preferred. Fast forward a month after a large payment towards the balance (not a full balance payoff but about 60%) they chopped my limit substantially!!! This was going to be my preferred personal card going forward for the rewards. I thought maybe I'll finally get to take a vacation some day and use points and this was one of the best cards out there and I already had it my portfolio. My question is, has anyone had any success or have any tips for getting the limit restore or at least increased? From researching CB it sounds like Chase is a real beast to deal with which is unfortunate. They were always really good to me in the past. Other info that might be helpful: I have both my personal and business checking with them I have a Chase Amazon Visa with a super low limit that has been at 0% utilization for at least couple years now My business card is an Amex Blue Business with a $18K limit and 0% utilization. Chase declined me for a business line of credit due to NO CREDIT (for the business that is) and told me to reapply in 6 months My PenFed personal credit card is the only one with a high balance now and I'm working on that one little by little I did establish a pretty good relationship with a business rep at my local branch and I thought about going in to see if he could help (he's reversed some fees for me in the past on the business account) but I don't want to try that first without more research. Thanks in advance for the advice!
  4. Recently, paid off balance of closed Amex account (closed by them) and was offered the optima card to rebuild relationship. Should I open to rebuild and if so ask for deletion of the original amex account ?
  5. Hi everyone! Just joined the community after hearing great things on an number of personal finance forums. I'm trying to rebuild my credit so that I can get a good mortgage hopefully by the end of 2020. Specifically, I'd like to increase my score from 568 to above 700 -- I know that's ambitious. Some positives. Several weeks ago, I paid off the remaining balance on my CC debt. I'm now in the middle of consolidating my student loan debt, which racks up to about $42K. I'll begin making monthly payments as soon as that process is complete. The not so good. The student loan debt mentioned above. I also have four collection / chargeoff accounts at Cap 1 (x2), Discover, Wells Fargo and Discover. I don't know where to start. I've recently tried applying online for a number of secured credit cards with Cap 1, Discover and Citi but have been denied due to my past issues. Are there any banks that will accept me? What are my other options? Any advice is welcome and I'm ready to do whatever it takes to reach or move closer towards my goal. For what it's worth, salary is between $100K and $120K and paying about $1.3K in rent every month.
  6. Hello again, I fell off the credit repair wagon for a while, hard to believe it has been 5 years since I have been here. I am once again looking to get my reports clean and rebuild my credit in the hopes of buying a home next year. Currently I have an open vehicle loan with a sporadic history of late payments, but has now been current for the last 4 months. Student loans that I am going to contact for rehab. 4 Charged off CC in collections, 2 are just beyond SOL and the other two will be beyond SOL later this year. One is with my bank and still shows in my online banking acct. The car loan was my only open TL so I just applied for and was approved for a cap1 and a milestone card each with a $300 limit. I am debating between a secured card with a higher limit from my local CU or paying on the toy cards for a few months and trying for another unsecured. Priority 1 is keeping the car and the new cards current to start building a positive payment history As far as the CO's I have a feeling the Wells Fargo one will stick like glue and I am wondering if that alone will be an issue for a mortgage. I will probably be going the FHA route due to lower credit scores. Any thoughts on how to best approach this with the hopes of an upcoming mortgage loan? Currently TU 575 fako EQ 553 fako EX 526 fico
  7. A "backdoor number" is one that gets you past frontline CSR's directly to Credit Analysts / Credit Departments / Account Managers / Account Specialists (different lenders call 'em different things) - these people/departments have decision-making abilities far beyond frontline CSR's; they can take and review requests for reconsideration of denied CC apps or CLI requests, APR reductions, etc. and implement their decisions. I can continuously update this first post with the latest information if everyone will post to this thread. I'll make the change and acknowledge. We truly appreciate your participation. Amazon (store card): see Synchrony (GE) AMEX: (Oasis Program) AMEX: 866-314-0237 (new app status) AMEX: 800-582-6471 (recon with frozen EX for pin) AMEX Business charge cards - (877) 399-3083 AMEX Credit Bureau Unit: 800-874-2717 (Must have a current credit report before calling. They will ask for the account number from the credit report, which is different from your card number) Barclays: 888-232-0780 (Customer Care) Barclays: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst) BBVA Compass Bank: (American Express Card issues only) 866-246-2924 Best Buy: 877-420-0001 Best Buy: 888-908-9890 (Credit Analyst, existing accounts only) BofA: 888-260-4696 (secured accts.) BofA: 800-824-5895 (secured & partially secured accts.) BofA: 800-881-4730, 866-226-8225, 800-247-7975 (Credit Analyst, existing accounts only) BofA: 866-618-4585 (Sr Credit Analyst) BofA: 704-386-5687 (Office of the CEO) BofA: 888-500-6270 (Credit Dept. Fax) BofA Business: 877-665-5023 (Analyst/UW) BofA Business: 877-665-5023 (New applications) BofA Business: 800-442-1043 Cap1: 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist) Cap1: 800-951-6951 (cust. relations) Cap1: 800-548-4593 (application department; status) Cap1: 800-889-9939, 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist) Cap1: 877-513-9959 (Account Retention?) Cap1: 800-258-9319 (Debt Recovery) Cap1: 866-280-0118, 800-955-1455 (EO) (Nerfed in general) Cap1 Secured Platinum: 800-219-7931 (deposit taker, can speak to credit analyst) Chase: 800-432-3117 (App status) Chase: 888-270-2127, 800-527-7419 (App recon) Chase: 800-453-9719 (Business card lending) Chase: 888-245-0625 (Credit Analyst - Recons) Chase: 888-622-7547 (Chase Executive Ofc. in IL) Chase: 800-955-9900 (Product change status questions) Chase: 888-298-5623 (Consolidation - M-F 8am-10pm EST) Chevron/Texaco Biz Card App Status: 888-243-8358 Citi: 800-645-7240, 800-288-4653 (Citi BankCard) Citi: 800-750-7453, 888-201-4523 (Business) Citi: 718-248-0847 (EO) Citi: 800-695-5171 (New Accounts UW) Citi: 605-331-1698 (EO - CC division) Citi Credit Bureau Dispute Fax: 866-713-5028 Comenity: 800-303-1368 (Consumer Relations - Recon) Discover: 888-676-3695 (New Accounts) Discover: 866-305-7691 (Direct Line TO CS) Discover: 866-222-0536 (EO) Elan: 800-364-9648 (CC underwriting, business and personal) Equifax: 800-846-5279 (Direct to Rep) Equifax Executive Office 404-885-8000 Experian: 800-493-1058, 800-208-9232 (9AM-5PM ET, need report number from EX) ExxonMobil Biz Card: 800-903-9966 FIA: See Elan FNBO: 800-444-6220 GEMB: 877-294-7541 (escalated help desk) Haverty's/Sync: 800-333-1082 Home Depot Store Card: 800-677-0232 (Credit Analyst) Home Depot Store Card: 423 467 6957 (App Status/Recon) Home Depot MC (Commercial): 800-720-0649 Home Depot: 800-685-6691 (Commercial) Hooters: 801-545-6705, 800-850-4668 HSBC: 866-574-4421 (App Status) HSBC: 866-719-3897 (Credit Analyst) JC Penney: 800-542-0800 Juniper: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst) Juniper/Barclays: 866-750-6031 (Corp. Offices) Key Bank: 888-201-4523 (App status) Key Bank: 800-254-2737 Key Bank MC: 800-288-4653 Key Bank Credit Research Fax: 216-357-6400 Lowes: see Synchrony (GE) Macy's: 800-627-2909 (Credit Dept. - new credit, inquiries on upgrade to Visa, credit reporting issues) Macy's: 800-543-9617 (Recovery Services) Marvel: see Synchrony (GE) Meijers MC: 801-517-5560 National City: 800-762-0974 (Credit Dept.) Nationwide Visa: 866-757-2720 (App. status) Nordstrom: 800-964-1800 (CLI) Orchard: 800-395-6090 (May get answered in Spanish by bilingual CSR's. If this happens and you don't speak Spanish, either try again later or try saying "Habla ingles?" or "Ingles, por favor" to let them know you're an English-speaker) Philips 66: 866-289-5630, 800-610-1961 PNC Bank: 800-762-2117 (Business CC) PNC Bank: 877-562-0150 (Business UW) Sam's Club: 800-301-5546 (Underwriting) Sears: 800-599-9710 (App status) Shell Fleet Card: 800-223-3296 (App status) Shell: 800-223-3296, 866-438-7435 Shell: 800-377-5150 Staples: 800-767-1291, 800-282-5316 Sunoco Corp. Card: 800-935-3387, 800-278-6626 Sunoco: 800-310-4773 Synchrony (GE): 800-240-0512, 800-480-0205 (Biz) Synchrony (GE): 800-588-4290 (Consumer) Synchrony (GE): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW) Synchrony (GE): 888-885-6937 (Verification) Synchrony (GE): 800-333-1082 (Haverty's) Synchrony (GE): 866-519-6441 (Marvel CC, Sr UW) Target Biz Card: 800-440-5317 Tiffany: 800-770-0800 Transunion: (312) 466-7719 (Corporate Office Resolution Team Voicemail) Transunion: (610) 546-4600 (Corporate Office, need extension or last name to search directory) USAA Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 ext 38763 (secured product specialist) US Bank: 800-685-7680 (Underwriting) US Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 (underwriters for secured product) Valero: 877-882-5376 Walmart (Sync): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW) Walmart (Sync): 877-969-5302 (Verification) Wells Fargo: 866-677-1128 (CC Executive Office) Wells Fargo: 844-576-6424 (Executive Office) Wells Fargo: 877-514-3717 (Amex Propel Credit Svcs) Wells Fargo: 844-879-4824 (Direct # for Product Change Credit Svcs) Wright Express: 888-743-3893
  8. Hello, I have create a situation for my self that my monthly expenses exceed my monthly income so I been missing payments to my credit cards. I was thinking of cashing out one of my mutual funds and pay off two of my cards to reduce my monthly overhead, Best buy has offered me a settlement offer where I would pay them half of my total statement within 90 days and they would charge off the rest, but they would still show on my credit that this was paid but not all of it. And I still have to reach out to chase to see what options I have with them. My question is, is this a good idea right now I am way behind on the payments and killing my credit but not sure what is my best options. Any suggestions or recommendation? Also I own my home so I didn't want to so a bankruptcy.
  9. This discussion had come up several times recently, so I thought we would have a clear thread on this subject. Who does this help? People with clean reports. What does it do? It helps you eek out every point possible from the utilization portion of FICO scoring. What do you do? Let $2 report on 1 card and have the rest report $0. Why $2? Because you want non-zero utilization reporting on 1 card that is included in FICO utilization calculations. Experimenting with amounts lower than $2 has often resulted in the balance being credited to $0, so $2 is the smallest "non-zero" amount to use reliably. Are there any cards that this won't work for? Discover is $3 minimum. They will credit $2 to $0. Cards over $50K are not counted in utilization and also do not count. I verified all of this with BobWang via email. I'm not going to post the emails, but if for some reason that is not good enough, I will forward the emails to Breeze and let her verify the authenticity of this information.
  10. Hi everyone. I’m trying to repair credit for myself and my husband so we can get a good mortgage hopefully by next summer. We have some dings from job layoffs and not having emergency funds, but I have spent a year and a half getting our budget set up so we have a good buffer and should job loss happen we would still be able to pay our bills for a while. So, credit repair is the next step. I am hoping for some advice. I’ve been trying to do things on my own and I feel like I still am kind of clueless. I sent some verification letters but a mortgage lender told me having those disputed notes on my file is no good. Good? Stuff from my credit report: Capital One Quicksilver $1500CL, paid on time and utilization under 9%, opened 3/2017 Capital One Quicksilver One $500CL, paid on time and utilization under 9%, opened 11/2017 Comenity store card $610CL, paid on time and currently $98 balance, not sure if I should pay that down more - I hate to keep buying stuff and I want it to report, opened 10/2017 Self Lender that was paid off in 2/2019 so now it reports as closed Capital One auto loan, balance around $14,500, paid on time, opened 12/2018 All of my student loans report paid on time. The bad stuff from my credit report: Credit One chargeoff, reporting $0 balance, DOFD 1/1/2015 - I paid the CA for this one, both OC and CA are still showing right now (just paid it off for a settlement amount this month) Old Navy paid for less than full balance and closed in July 2013, reports past due through end of 2013. It says “account paid for less than full balance”. Not sure DOFD. Kohls chargeoff, DOFD 4/2013 Barclays chargeoff, reporting $0 balance, DOFD 2/2015, paid the CA for this one as well - both OC and CA report, similar to the Credit One account above. This also says “consumer disputes after resolution”. First Investors auto reposession 8/2015. Reports $0 balance. PRA $999 old Cap One card, DOFD 3/2015 Midland for Barclay, paid for less than full amount, CR has not updated yet Midland for Credit One, paid for less than full amount, CR Has not updated yet Penn Credit electric bill collection, placed 4/2016, planning to pay this week Professional Debt Mediation collection, planning to pay in the next few months, placed 2/2015 My husband has 2 open, paid on time Cap One cards (newer than mine), the auto loan, and then 3 collections that I am planning to address this year. Should I write letters to the original creditors to ask them to remove things? Should I just continue to pay off the CAs? I know PRA will now delete once it’s paid. Are there other letters I should write or steps I should take? I guess I just get confused as far as whether it’s beneficial to actually send all the validation stuff, or whether it’s actually harming my report. Thanks for any advice.
  11. Trying this again since i have more info- I have a lease from 4 yrs ago that’s been reporting as a collection. It was an eviction due to them getting sick of me paying two weeks into the month with late fees attached . I called the property today because i think the amount they are listing is incorrect. Apparently there is a new management company and i got this response..can i use this to my advantage? I do know NCC has the debt and is still reporting the original company I rented with as the owner. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.. ——————————————- We have recently purchased the community and changed management teams as of 01/04/2019 therefore, your account and file information was part of XYZ Company. I would have to refer you to them to find out what collection agency they placed your file with and how to get this resolved with them as the debt, if any, is owed to them. Please reach out to XYZ Company here in town and inquire about your home, 11-406, here at Axxxx and they should be able to provide you with Katherine’s information to reach her or another person in their management team that could assist you in finding the collection agency used to resolve this matter. Please see the ledger attached, this is all I have record of. Thank you, Laura J Property Manager
  12. Hi, Here I am trying to get back up. I had gone through some unfortunate circumstances while I was assigned overseas back in 2016. By the time I came back into the US, all my accounts were closed by CG but not CO. While trying to manage damage control, I was able to get few accounts saved from CO but most were CO by CG. Long story short, I managed to pay off Amex PRG and NFCU CLOC back then. Whatever was left eventually became CO past 120 Days marker. I have contemplated the idea of BK Ch7 and still meet mean tested standard. I did not go that route because I wanted to go back to school for Master and did not want to put hurdles in my way for any SL. I have finally gathered the courage to clean my files and start off with rebuilding while attempting to pay some of the prime lenders off by asking PFD. The reason I wanted to go this route is to later explain to any potential lenders that, despite default, I kept my obligations nad paid them off. I hope it testify to my ethics. (Please correct me if I am dreaming).While I rebuild, I ask all of your help to better plan my strategy. A bit about my currents goals and profile. I have three SL that have been in deferment with nothing late. I also have a vehicle lease that has 5x30 markers that is now current. I am starting off with two Secured CC. Since eventual graduation into an unsecured line is my ultimate goal, I am considering Discover It and NFCU Secured CC. I do realize that I have CO from NFCU. I called them to find out if I am still eligible for a secured CC while having a CO NFCU CC. The Rep told me I am, however, I was not quite satisfied from his explanation. Please guide me if I should attempt this. I had AMEX accounts in which PRG was paid in full, while two are CO. I am not sure if I am Black Listed by AMEX. AMEX have been sending me Optima offers to accept which I never accepted. Because I thought having CO (including two of AMEX) on CRAs, I won’t get it. Since I have family members who could add me as an AU, I, now, want to try this and see if I could be added as an AU. It will serve two objectives; a) It will show if I am blacklisted by AMEX. If I am, it will then help me draw a strategy as to how to resolve it by engaging EO. b) If I am able to get the card, it will help me rebuild my credit while giving me an opportunity to build a profile with AMEX without getting banned. Here is what I have on CRAs at the moment. Amex PRG 120 Days Cancelled by CG PAID IN FULL Amex BSP CO Canceled by CG $2494 Amex ED CO Cancelled by CG $2244 BOA CO Closed by CG $2800 Barclays CO Closed by CG $1180 Capital One CO Closed by CG $2110 (Deleted by the DF) Chase CO Closed by CG $5634 NFCU FVR CO Closed by CG $8000 NFCU CLOC 1X 90 DAYS MARKER PAID IN FULL Penfed CO Closed by CG $6111 Synchy CO Closed by CG $5600 Thank you for reading, all feedback, suggestions, guidance, and criticism is welcome😊
  13. We’re trying to rebuild my husband’s credit. He’s had two Capital One credit cards which he’s been paying in full and on time each month, but we realized they’re not being reported to the credit bureaus. He’s called Capital One and keeps getting the run around and being told they they’ll report, but they never do. I have good credit and a different Capital One card that is reported to the bureaus each month. Since he has poor credit, are they simply not reporting because they’re discriminating? I know they’re not legally required to report, but does he have any options or leverage here? Is it better to cut his losses and apply for a new card? Has anyone had a good experience with specific credit cards to help rebuild credit? Or should I add him as an authorized user?
  14. I have been working on improving my credit score the past couple of years. I started with a score in the high 400's with 6 charge-offs reporting on my CR. During this time I managed to arrange PFDs for all of them. Unfortunately, 2 OC's from the charge offs are still currently reporting from 2014. They are reporting with a balance of $0 and missed payments. I have sent 2 goodwill letters and proof of payment from debt collector on behalf of the OC to both remaining OC's with no response in the last 2 months from either. My FICO scores for TU/EQ now seem stagnant around the 665 mark. I currently have my car loan with $1700 remaining. I opened 2 secured cards last year which are Capital One with a $700 limit and Discover which already returned my deposited and increased my credit line to $1500. I am looking for any advice as to how I can increase my credit score from this point. Should I continue sending goodwill letters to the 2 remaining OCs? Should I open yet another secured card or apply for an unsecured?
  15. Sorry if it's been posted but I searched in the search bar and didn't come up with anything. I recently got a secured cc to start repairing my credit. My question is, if I make my first payment early will that affect me positively or negatively? Thank you in advance.
  16. Hello- I haven't posted in a while, thanks to the help I received from this outstanding community. Currently I am involved in a CR dispute with my car loan company, and I need some advice. A few months ago I received a call from the loan company notifying me that they've discontinued my automatic drafts from my checking account, due the fact that they didn't have my current address on file. I thought that this was strange, but arranged to pay the amount in arrears immediately. It was then when I inquired and was told that they reported me to the collection agencies. So they unilaterally ended my automatic payment plan because they didn't have a correct address, and because of they didn't get in contact with me they reported me to the agencies. They said that they attempted to contact me, but I have no record of that. And honestly if they did, I was really busy with building a house (I had to assume construction control - another story lol) in addition to my regular job and family concerns. I did not have the time, and did not think that I would have to concern myself with my automatic car loan drafts. This reporting by my car loan company has reduced my score over 40 points. They did this solely due to their ridiculous rule (which the agent mentioned to me on the phone that they are trying to change) - not because of my ability and intent to pay (I can prove the funds were in my account at the time). I need some advice on correspondence to send to the agencies to get this removed from my reports. Thank you in advance.
  17. Is a lease considered an open account or written contract? Logic is telling me written but I’ve here due to how leases are paid, it could be open. I’m in Virginia so it’s 3 vs 5 yrs difference. thanks!
  18. Hello all! My statement period ends on the 20th of the month, the company reports to the bureaus on the 20th of the month, and my payments are due on the 17th of the month. What date of the month should I actually pay my statement so as to achieve the max credit boost? Thanks in advance ladies and gents!!
  19. I have been informed by all 3 credit bureaus that due to a lack of activity, they cannot generate a score for me. For years, I believed that I had toilet-bow bad credit because I've always been turned down for credit. I have had a lot of medical collections on my reports over the past 9 years or so and about 2 student loans (at 2 seperate times and one of which I paid off completely in about the year 2012 or so). Currently, I have less than $3,000 in debt, about 7 medical collections, 1 or 2 student loans, and about 17 hard inquiries total between all 3 bureaus. All collections on my credit report is at least 5 years old. About 3 of those hard inquries are within the last 2 months, the other ones are at least 6 months old (Had I known Carmax would pull my credit multiple times, I wouldnt've have used them to try and purchase a vehicle; this is where a lot of those hard pulls came from!). I currently have a decent income and have very few monthly expenses (no rent/mortgage, daycare, car note, etc.- just my phone bill, groceries (for 1), and very minimal budget for clothes, entertainment and misc. My question is, is there a non-secured credit card that I am likely to be approved for/is geared for people like me with old collections, a moderate number of inquiries, no credit score, but a decent income? I just recieved an OpenSky Secured card ($200 deposit and $200 limit) and I am waiting on my Capital One Secured card ($250 deposit and $350 limit) to come in the mail. Thanks in advance, everyone!
  20. Hi gurus here, I got a collection on my 3 CRA reports, for a utility late bill on an apartment which I moved out since 2015. My previous roommate continued using my utility account without my knowledge. Once I saw the collection, I contacted the roommate and he paid off the debt. But as you expected, since he paid off the debt already, i don't have much to argue with collectors. My credit score dropped 100 points (This is the only collection I had in my life) Before i found out this site, I've started with lexington laws service (yeah i might be very wrong) roughly a month ago, and they mentioned they sent out letters to all 3 CRAs already. But nothing changed on my scores yet. After reading valuable posts here, I want to dispute with CRAs myself this way: I have evidences to show I weren't living at that apartment since 2015. (I can provide my new apartment lease / utility bills during 2015 to 2019. I even moved to another state since 2017, and started a new job here), and my identity is used by somebody else. Is this a valid dispute strategy to go? Any advice will be appreciated!
  21. I am preparing to refinance my student loans, and want to ensure my credit is in the best shape possible before applying. My credit utilization is between 10-15%; however, I have late payments on my account that I feel may be unjust, and I'm seeking advice from individuals who have gotten negative items removed to see if you think I am eligible to do the same. In July of 2017, one of my small student loan services changed carriers to Heartland ECSI. The payment was roughly $35 per month, but when the loan changed hands my automatic payments stopped as well. This resulted in my payment being 3 months late (the first 3 months the new loan went into effect). I did not actively change the loan to another company, this was done between the two companies. To put this in perspective, I pay roughly $2000 per month in student loans and my annual income is between $120,000-$130,000; so it's frustrating that such a small payment is making such a negative impact. I'd like to hear if anyone has similar experiences and if you think I have a chance to get this removed. I greatly appreciate any input!
  22. I had a rental property that was part of a business dealing that went bad. The property was on the brink of foreclosure when we were finally able to settle and sell. Bank (and taxes, HOA, etc) all were paid in full. This was not a short sale, or settlement of debt. Realistically, when would I start to see my credit score increase? This house was the only negative on my credit report (unfortunately a large one) and was nearly 2-years behind when everything was resolved. Score dropped about 150 points when the payments were falling behind. Other debt is minimal. Just primary residence ($200k and 5 years of on-time payments) and a school loan ($6k remaining). Credit cards are used for daily transactions, but are always paid in full. No other late payments, collections, or anything of the sort for 15 years plus. Bank is showing the mortgage account as closed, but it doesn't appear that it was marked as "Paid in Full." Related question, I see that typically late payments fall off of the credit report 7 years after "first notice." Does that mean at the 7 year mark, that all vanishes, or is it a rolling 7-year (as the last late payment filing was 2 years after the first, so it would be 2 years from now?). Thank you.
  23. Credit One Bank - in January, they reported this account was charged off in June 2016. Now they're reporting a failed to pay (FP) in February 2018 on Experian. On Equifax they report OK in payment history every month from Dec2016 - Apr2018 with payment status: Bad debt & placed for collection & skip. On TransUnion it's reported with balance $0 and payment status: Charged off as bad debt. No payment history on TU. This debt has been paid in full to Midland Funding. How can they report failed to pay 2 years after charge-off? Can I dispute or sue them for this? I also have these collections on my reports: Convergent (OC Sprint) $1660 Original DOFD: Nov 2014 Date opened: Jan 2017 Account Status: EX - CLOSED. Payment Status: EX - Paid, was a collection account, insurance claim or government claim or was terminated for default. Balance: EX - Blank. Payment History: EX - FP from Feb2018 - May2018. Comments: EX - Account in dispute-reported by subscriber (they "verified" in April or May 2018). Portfolio Recovery (OC Capital One) $855 Original DOFD: 2015 (I think November - that was the time I had financial trouble and stopped paying CCs) Date opened: Jul 2017 Account Status: EX - CLOSED. EQ - CLOSED. Payment Status: EX - Paid, was a collection account, insurance claim or government claim or was terminated for default. EQ - Blank. Balance: - EX - Blank. EQ - $0. Payment History: EX - FP in Apr2018. EQ - OK from Feb2014 - Apr2018 Comments: EX - Blank. EQ - PAID COLLECTION. On TU this is reported as 08 Capital One Bank as Closed status, $0 balance, Paid Collection comment. Portfolio Recovery (OC Capital One) $605 Original DOFD: 2015 (I think November - that was the time I had financial trouble and stopped paying CCs) Date opened: Jul 2017 Account Status: EX - CLOSED. EQ - CLOSED. Payment Status: EX - Paid, was a collection account, insurance claim or government claim or was terminated for default. EQ - Blank. Balance: - EX - Blank. EQ - $0. Payment History: EX - FP in Apr2018. EQ - OK from Feb2014 - Apr2018 Comments: EX - Blank. EQ - PAID COLLECTION. On TU this is reported as 08 Capital One Bank as Closed status, $0 balance, Paid Collection comment. TU collections: 10 Centurylink Quest Corp $240 (CA was EOS CCA) DOFD: 2011 (account closed Dec 2011) Date Opened: Oct 2014 Account Status: Closed Payment Status: Blank Balance: $0 Payment History: Blank Comments: Account information disputed by consumer 11 Cox Communications $113 (CA was AFNI) DOFD: 2013 Date Opened: Feb 2018 Account Status: Closed Payment Status: Blank Balance: $0 Payment History: Blank Comments: Dispute resolved reported by grantor 11 Sprint $1660 (CA was Convergent) DOFD: Nov 2014 Date Opened: Jan 2017 Account Status: Closed Payment Status: Blank Balance: $0 Payment History: Blank Comments: Account information disputed by consumer Why do these TLs show as the OC on TU report even though they were all collection agencies and paid to collection agencies? The contact info on the TU report is for the collections agencies, not the OC. It looks like the Centurylink bill has been re-aged. CA shows open date 2014 but the OC account was closed Dec 2011. ALL of these collections have been paid in full to the collection agencies. What is the best path to get some or all of these things deleted?
  24. Hi Guys! I need help with a collection account that recently reported to my Experian report on 2/5/19, “Enhanced Recovery” purchased an old Sprint debt from May 2013. In California our SOL is 4 years. What can I possibly to get this account removed from my report ASAP! Account Name ENHANCED RECOVERY CO L,202752XXX Original Creditor SPRINT Open Date Invalid date Balance $1,302 Debt $1,302 Contact Information 8014 BAYBERRY RD,JACKSONVILLE, FL 32256,(800) 496-8941
  25. This is a 'continuation' of my original post in the medical billing forum for Wakefield & Associates that is not medically related - and mostly intended for WhyChat: So I received my Equifax report today and only have two tradelines on it. A current credit card, which is never late, etc etc. However, there is an entry from Jefferson Capital for an old debt from Verizon (not sure how it got to be $561 but that's not relevant here). I need your opinion on the following: I was able to retrieve my old credit reports from 2014 off of an old external hard drive. My most recent Equifax report dated 12/10 shows: (Jefferson Capital) DOFD: 01/2013 DMD 1st Rptd: 12/2015 BOTH of these are clearly and undeniably incorrect. The actual dates - from reports from 2014 are: (Verizon - OC) DOFD: 02/2013 DMD 1st Rptd: 08/2013 One is off by a month and the other is off by 2 yrs, 4 months. The most important one being the date of first major del. My questions are: 1) Should I do a regular DV with Eq asking for: "Please advise me as to the name and address of the original creditor, the name of the account holder, and the reported date of first delinquency,as any account I might have had at one time would be obsolete. Please advise me as to the correct name and current address of this creditor, the name of the account holder, and the reported date of first delinquency,as any account I might have had at one time would be obsolete. If you can obtain this information, I also would need the name of the person providing this data, and the manner in which it was provided in order that I may pursue additional legal remedies." https://whychat.me/initdispltrsol.html (With blue background/blue handwritten ink) (The above is what I sent to TU & Exp and am awaiting on their response.) 2) Or should I do a "jack attack" that I have seen on here where you dispute each and every entry? 3) What is the difference in sending by priority mail vs. certified. Both can be tracked and neither has to be signed for. About a $3 difference in cost of mailing. Just curious. Other info on this TL from Jefferson: From Verizon in 2014 Months Revd: 35 1 Creditor Calssification: Financial Blank Status: Collection Account Collection Account Type of Account: Open Open Type of Loan: Debt Buyer Account Telecommunication/Cellular Whose Account: Individual Account Individual Account Additional Information: Collection Account. Collection Your thoughts please as I plan on sending this out tomorrow if I can get to the Post Office before they close. I have to get either the Priority/certified numbers before I can send it. I would encourage anyone reading this to also read your link to Attorney Lawrence Rubin. I have read it, but need to go back and read it 'more slower' without any interruptions. Thanks again for your help and the Creditboards forum.

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