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Found 755 results

  1. Hi everyone, I've been fighting a bankruptcy chapter 7 for almost a year and got it off LexisNexis, Experian and Equifax but TransUnion is growing to be a thorn in my side. The bankruptcy is from 2014, and I am disputing the accuracy on dates, file/case number, and address. I've sent about 3 letters requesting all the investigative material after they sent me the standard "verified" letter. Obviously they keep sending me a copy of my report with the same "verified" remark so I filed a complaint with the CFPB, attaching all letters I sent, as well as a letters from the bankruptcy court, copy of my LexisNexis report showing no bankruptcies in it, as well as the responses received from TU after each letter. TU sent the following response to my complaint: We have reviewed your complaint along with the information you provided regarding this issue. As a result of our research, on [DATES], an investigation was initiated into USBK Court Eastern New York #XXXXX per your requests. In response to the investigations, the disputed information was verified or updated accordingly and the results were forwarded to you for review. On [DATE], an investigation was initiated into the USBK Court Eastern New York XXXX account appearing on your TransUnion credit report per your request. At that time, a letter was forwarded to you advising that our records show that we previously completed an investigation into the identified item and that the data furnisher verified the information as accurate on your credit file. Please note that TransUnion has verified that the bankruptcy information reported in your credit report accurately reflects the public record of the United States Federal Bankruptcy Court, and is currently reported on your credit report as permitted by federal law. The Fair Credit Reporting Act allows: Bankruptcies to be reported for 10 years from the date of filing. However, it is TransUnion’s policy to report discharged or dismissed Chapter 13 bankruptcies for seven years from the date the bankruptcy was filed. Voluntarily dismissed bankruptcies, regardless of the chapter filed, are reported for seven years from the date the bankruptcy was filed. Therefore, as permitted under federal law, it will remain on your file until 2/4/2024. In addition, on [DATES], letters were forwarded to you advising of TransUnion’s Investigation Procedure per your requests. The current mailing address you provided with your complaint, is not listed in our records. If you would like for TransUnion to update your current address, you must submit copies of two (2) of the qualifying documents listed below to this address: P.O. Box 2000, Chester, PA 19016-2000. Electronic statements printed from a website cannot be accepted for proof of address. Driver’s license or State ID card (current and unexpired). Pay stub, Bank/credit union statement or cancelled check, College letters (campus housing), Government issued ID card, Medicaid/Medicare cards (if address is present), Stamped post office box receipt, Utility bill (water, gas, electric, or telephone). Or one (1) of the following: Signed letter from homeless shelter, Prison identification letter. When providing proof of your current mailing address, please ensure; Bank statements, utility bills, cancelled checks, and pay stubs are not older than 2 months. PO Box receipts and signed letters confirming residency are not older than 1 year. Any advice about how to go about this? Thanks
  2. When you take a consolidated loan...do they pay off the debt BEFORE the card or loan is closed or AFTER it is closed? If you cant get a personal loan is this your next best option...? How does before or after affect the credit if its closed, but paid? Is that a good way to go if you have less than a certain amount? How does one loan payment, if you have a car loan and student loan... affect the credit then? Can you obtain credit again during the loan payoff or only after...? How are you treated by the credit card companies...? Really curious about this process.
  3. In early 2016, I lost my job in the oil field. It was a very good job, and I made good money. I received a decent package when I was laid off, and starting looking for a job. Sadly, the entire oil patch was going through the same thing, and it took my 18 months to find a job that paid 1/5th of what I had been making. It took another six months after that to find a job that allowed us to keep our heads above water, and now I'm back in the saddle and we're doing much better. Around the 18 month mark, we had to let some of our credit cards go. They had pretty high balances, but we were doing fine until that point. It was always our intention to try to pay them when I found a job, because we did incur the debts and I felt pretty bad about having to let them go. Also, we'd worked so damn hard to get our credit straightened out and it was very nearly physical pain to let it go to hell again. But when I got to the point where we could actually start looking at making payments again (around that two year mark), well ... OCs were sort of like, too bad, we've already charged them off and sold them. I decided to try to ride it out and see what happens. We haven't applied for new credit, but we've maintained three or four cards, our car payments, student loans and a personal loan in the time that's elapsed. Fast forward to last month, and I was sued by Midland for a small-ish debt. I responded, but haven't heard anything back yet. The thing is, we're trying to move in to a new rental, and the RE agent is telling us it may be impossible for us to do so with our credit scores (my FICO scores are low 600s and I make the bulk of the income; DH's are mid 500s). Soooo I was wondering (and I'm no newb but I am sick of dealing with this crap) if I should try to settle some of these with a couple of caveats - primarily that they are PFDs and the remaining debts are never sold. I still have two years to ride out the SOL, and I cannot wait that long to move or buy a car (that needs to be done next year). Should I try to settle these debts? I'm morally opposed to paying bottom feeders like Midland and Portfolio, but I need to get my scores back to a reasonable point, and the damn collections from JDBs are what's really screwing it up. Also, I'm concerned that since half or more of my debts are now owned by Midland, if they are in any way successful with this lawsuit, they will charge full steam ahead and go after me for all of them. I can see it really opening the flood gates, so to speak. What would you do in this situation? TIA, TQG
  4. A "backdoor number" is one that gets you past frontline CSR's directly to Credit Analysts / Credit Departments / Account Managers / Account Specialists (different lenders call 'em different things) - these people/departments have decision-making abilities far beyond frontline CSR's; they can take and review requests for reconsideration of denied CC apps or CLI requests, APR reductions, etc. and implement their decisions. I can continuously update this first post with the latest information if everyone will post to this thread. I'll make the change and acknowledge. We truly appreciate your participation. Amazon (store card): see Synchrony (GE) AMEX: (Oasis Program) AMEX: 866-314-0237 (new app status) AMEX: 800-582-6471 (recon with frozen EX for pin) AMEX Business charge cards - (877) 399-3083 AMEX Credit Bureau Unit: 800-874-2717 (Must have a current credit report before calling. They will ask for the account number from the credit report, which is different from your card number) Barclays: 888-232-0780 (Customer Care) Barclays: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst) BBVA Compass Bank: (American Express Card issues only) 866-246-2924 Best Buy: 877-420-0001 Best Buy: 888-908-9890 (Credit Analyst, existing accounts only) BofA: 888-260-4696 (secured accts.) BofA: 800-824-5895 (secured & partially secured accts.) BofA: 800-881-4730, 866-226-8225, 800-247-7975 (Credit Analyst, existing accounts only) BofA: 866-618-4585 (Sr Credit Analyst) BofA: 704-386-5687 (Office of the CEO) BofA: 888-500-6270 (Credit Dept. Fax) BofA Business: 877-665-5023 (Analyst/UW) BofA Business: 877-665-5023 (New applications) BofA Business: 800-442-1043 Cap1: 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist) Cap1: 800-951-6951 (cust. relations) Cap1: 800-548-4593 (application department; status) Cap1: 800-889-9939, 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist) Cap1: 877-513-9959 (Account Retention?) Cap1: 800-258-9319 (Debt Recovery) Cap1: 866-280-0118, 800-955-1455 (EO) (Nerfed in general) Cap1 Secured Platinum: 800-219-7931 (deposit taker, can speak to credit analyst) Chase: 800-432-3117 (App status) Chase: 888-270-2127, 800-527-7419 (App recon) Chase: 800-453-9719 (Business card lending) Chase: 888-245-0625 (Credit Analyst - Recons) Chase: 888-622-7547 (Chase Executive Ofc. in IL) Chase: 800-955-9900 (Product change status questions) Chase: 888-298-5623 (Consolidation - M-F 8am-10pm EST) Chevron/Texaco Biz Card App Status: 888-243-8358 Citi: 800-645-7240, 800-288-4653 (Citi BankCard) Citi: 800-750-7453, 888-201-4523 (Business) Citi: 718-248-0847 (EO) Citi: 800-695-5171 (New Accounts UW) Citi: 605-331-1698 (EO - CC division) Citi Credit Bureau Dispute Fax: 866-713-5028 Comenity: 800-303-1368 (Consumer Relations - Recon) Discover: 888-676-3695 (New Accounts) Discover: 866-305-7691 (Direct Line TO CS) Discover: 866-222-0536 (EO) Elan: 800-364-9648 (CC underwriting, business and personal) Equifax: 800-846-5279 (Direct to Rep) Equifax Executive Office 404-885-8000 Experian: 800-493-1058, 800-208-9232 (9AM-5PM ET, need report number from EX) ExxonMobil Biz Card: 800-903-9966 FIA: See Elan FNBO: 800-444-6220 GEMB: 877-294-7541 (escalated help desk) Haverty's/Sync: 800-333-1082 Home Depot Store Card: 800-677-0232 (Credit Analyst) Home Depot Store Card: 423 467 6957 (App Status/Recon) Home Depot MC (Commercial): 800-720-0649 Home Depot: 800-685-6691 (Commercial) Hooters: 801-545-6705, 800-850-4668 HSBC: 866-574-4421 (App Status) HSBC: 866-719-3897 (Credit Analyst) JC Penney: 800-542-0800 Juniper: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst) Juniper/Barclays: 866-750-6031 (Corp. Offices) Key Bank: 888-201-4523 (App status) Key Bank: 800-254-2737 Key Bank MC: 800-288-4653 Key Bank Credit Research Fax: 216-357-6400 Lowes: see Synchrony (GE) Macy's: 800-627-2909 (Credit Dept. - new credit, inquiries on upgrade to Visa, credit reporting issues) Macy's: 800-543-9617 (Recovery Services) Marvel: see Synchrony (GE) Meijers MC: 801-517-5560 National City: 800-762-0974 (Credit Dept.) Nationwide Visa: 866-757-2720 (App. status) Nordstrom: 800-964-1800 (CLI) Orchard: 800-395-6090 (May get answered in Spanish by bilingual CSR's. If this happens and you don't speak Spanish, either try again later or try saying "Habla ingles?" or "Ingles, por favor" to let them know you're an English-speaker) Philips 66: 866-289-5630, 800-610-1961 PNC Bank: 800-762-2117 (Business CC) PNC Bank: 877-562-0150 (Business UW) Sam's Club: 800-301-5546 (Underwriting) Sears: 800-599-9710 (App status) Shell Fleet Card: 800-223-3296 (App status) Shell: 800-223-3296, 866-438-7435 Shell: 800-377-5150 Staples: 800-767-1291, 800-282-5316 Sunoco Corp. Card: 800-935-3387, 800-278-6626 Sunoco: 800-310-4773 Synchrony (GE): 800-240-0512, 800-480-0205 (Biz) Synchrony (GE): 800-588-4290 (Consumer) Synchrony (GE): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW) Synchrony (GE): 888-885-6937 (Verification) Synchrony (GE): 800-333-1082 (Haverty's) Synchrony (GE): 866-519-6441 (Marvel CC, Sr UW) Target Biz Card: 800-440-5317 Tiffany: 800-770-0800 Transunion: (312) 466-7719 (Corporate Office Resolution Team Voicemail) Transunion: (610) 546-4600 (Corporate Office, need extension or last name to search directory) USAA Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 ext 38763 (secured product specialist) US Bank: 800-685-7680 (Underwriting) US Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 (underwriters for secured product) Valero: 877-882-5376 Walmart (Sync): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW) Walmart (Sync): 877-969-5302 (Verification) Wells Fargo: 866-677-1128 (CC Executive Office) Wells Fargo: 844-576-6424 (Executive Office) Wells Fargo: 877-514-3717 (Amex Propel Credit Svcs) Wells Fargo: 844-879-4824 (Direct # for Product Change Credit Svcs) Wright Express: 888-743-3893
  5. Hey all, I would like to reintroduce myself and say hello before I pose my questions. I am recently divorced and have been left with defaulted credit cards that though have been in my name but used by the ex. I take ownership of the situation but it's been a tough pill to swallow. I know there is no such thing as quick credit repair but with my work schedule and busy life outside work I find it hard to put time aside to fight the credit battle. Now that I have moved on from my bad marriage on to my new life I would love to be in a position where I could buy a new house but my credit says otherwise. My scores have been floating around 580 even with many positive trade lines and they continue to drop. I have been speaking with a gentleman named Dave from a company called 740Plus Credit and of all the places I have spoke they seem to be the most professional. I really hate the idea of paying for a service but I feel like I am out of options. Question 1: Does anyone have any experience with this company? I would attach the agreement he wrote up but I cant figure out how to attach it Question 2 would be: What other options would a guy in my position consider? I am a 45 year old professional who makes decent money but my life stands still because of my bad choices. I know this might be vague, I'll answer all questions that need answered but I ask please to give solid advice. Thank you
  6. Over the past 24 months, I have experienced many life changes. In my efforts to return to the land of credit worthiness, I need to address several adverse issues on my credit file with the 3 major reporting agencies. I would like to seek advice on how to handle the following derogatory comment on my file. I had taken out a pay day loan. Given many financial challenges, I was not able to pay back the $5,000. I did make a couple of payments, but on August 2018 they wrote off my account and sent it to collections. I reached out to the originally creditor to settle my credit obligation, but they informed me it was sent to a collection agency. I contacted the collection agency about this debt, but they informed that they no longer handled this debt collection. However, they provided me the contact information of the collection agency who does. Which brings me to my question, should I try to settled with the new collection agency or file a request with the credit agencies to get this item removed? It seems that the trail to track down this debt is not simple. In the case, I work with the new collection agency, do they have the ability / power to remove the adverse credit? I look forward to your comments.
  7. So I have a Credit One card and recently got a CLI bump on it so I'm up to $550, but after reading some posts here, I'm hearing that it looks bad to have it. I don't necessarily need it because I have a Cap 1 Platimun ($850), a Wells Fargo ($600 secured) &, a Discover IT ($500 secured). The Credit One is the youngest of all the cards, only a year old. I had another credit one card about a decade ago that charged off and a weird thing happened. After months of paying on time with this new card, the old account reports as closed, but with 2 years of all positive payment history. I'm grateful for that... don't know how it happened, but cool. So I got this new card just to boost my overall credit, but now I'm thinking that was a mistake(except for the change in reporting of the older account). I understand that when I close it, it will remain a "stain" on my account for 10 years. Is it that big of a deal, though? Can somebody give me some examples of how having it there can affect my credit... score, chances of approval for credit, credit limits... etc.? Will closing the account make much difference in the short term since it will still be a stain?
  8. Due to a serious lapse in judgment I acted on the "spend $45 on a new Sam's Club membership/get $45 back" Amex offer, and we joined when I was among the mud people last week. The store was awful. The selection is much smaller than Costco's, and the merchandise itself (aside from national/known brands) is largely lower-end/riffraff stuff. One entire aisle of refrigerated/frozen items was empty. Merchandise displays were messy. We bought two bags of frozen berries and left. Then the email for using the Amex offer never arrived. I looked at my receipt, and the membership was processed as a renewal, not a new membership, even though we haven't been members for over a year (we joined for free once before, shopped once, and never returned), so the purchase didn't qualify for the Amex offer. A couple of days later I logged into my Sam's Club account online, and sent a brief, polite request for a membership refund, and cited their published terms and conditions which state: "The Sam’s Club Membership has a 100% satisfaction guarantee. If at any time a member is not satisfied with their membership, Sam’s Club will refund the entire membership fee." The response: Nowhere in their satisfaction guarantee does it state that you have to go to a store to get the membership fee back. I let them know that I am in a different city for the next several weeks and I do not have a Sam's Club location that is convenient (there is exactly one in the entire San Diego metro area, and it's in a neighborhood where I wouldn't leave my car unattended). The next closest store is in Murietta, which is practically in Oregon. I indicated that if they didn't want to refund my money based on this second written request I would resolve this by disputing the charge with Amex. Three days later, no reply. I just got off the phone with Amex, and now I am done with this Chocolate Goodness retailer forever.
  9. Hi everyone! Just joined the community after hearing great things on an number of personal finance forums. I'm trying to rebuild my credit so that I can get a good mortgage hopefully by the end of 2020. Specifically, I'd like to increase my score from 568 to above 700 -- I know that's ambitious. Some positives. Several weeks ago, I paid off the remaining balance on my CC debt. I'm now in the middle of consolidating my student loan debt, which racks up to about $42K. I'll begin making monthly payments as soon as that process is complete. The not so good. The student loan debt mentioned above. I also have four collection / chargeoff accounts at Cap 1 (x2), Discover, Wells Fargo and Discover. I don't know where to start. I've recently tried applying online for a number of secured credit cards with Cap 1, Discover and Citi but have been denied due to my past issues. Are there any banks that will accept me? What are my other options? Any advice is welcome and I'm ready to do whatever it takes to reach or move closer towards my goal. For what it's worth, salary is between $100K and $120K and paying about $1.3K in rent every month.
  10. Hello again, I fell off the credit repair wagon for a while, hard to believe it has been 5 years since I have been here. I am once again looking to get my reports clean and rebuild my credit in the hopes of buying a home next year. Currently I have an open vehicle loan with a sporadic history of late payments, but has now been current for the last 4 months. Student loans that I am going to contact for rehab. 4 Charged off CC in collections, 2 are just beyond SOL and the other two will be beyond SOL later this year. One is with my bank and still shows in my online banking acct. The car loan was my only open TL so I just applied for and was approved for a cap1 and a milestone card each with a $300 limit. I am debating between a secured card with a higher limit from my local CU or paying on the toy cards for a few months and trying for another unsecured. Priority 1 is keeping the car and the new cards current to start building a positive payment history As far as the CO's I have a feeling the Wells Fargo one will stick like glue and I am wondering if that alone will be an issue for a mortgage. I will probably be going the FHA route due to lower credit scores. Any thoughts on how to best approach this with the hopes of an upcoming mortgage loan? Currently TU 575 fako EQ 553 fako EX 526 fico
  11. SORRY IF THIS IS TOO LONG WINDED! I'm in my early 20's looking to clean up my credit due to some naiveness as an 18-year-old. My goal is to get to a point where I can be approved for higher level credit cards and eventually buy a home. I've read most of the posts in the newbie section and am preparing to start sending letters, but I wanted to run my strategy by someone first and hopefully get some advice. The collection I am referring to is below: Afni, Inc. ( Cox Communications ) - Reporting on TU and EQ Amount: $523 (same as the amount from Cox) DOFD: (not reported on Afni collection) my statements show - 12/2015 Date Opened: 04/2018 First Reported: 05/2018 *note* I do not recall ever receiving a dunning letter from Afni *note* before CB I didn't know what I was doing and called Afni to ask what this was and how to get rid of it. Was told I had to pay it and they couldn't remove it but only mark it paid in full. Never paid it and was offered a settlement by them which I did call and discuss with them but ultimately never sent a payment. My state law says this doesn't reage the debt, thank goodness. Arizona sol is 3 years for an oral contract or open account and 6 years for a written contract or credit card. I never signed a contract with Cox, they have a user agreement. I'm assuming the agreement meets the qualifications for a written contract so the sol is through 12/2022. If I'm mistaken in this then I don't think the agreement is legally enforceable ( doubt this is the case ). I'm hesitant to pursue the 1-2 punch because I would like to keep the option of paying the OC directly open in the future (I can submit a payment online) and want to keep the CRA out of it for now. Further, I'm unsure what the likelihood of a lawsuit is in this case if it's within the sol so I don't wanna push it. So, my strategy is to send a simple DV the CA to request information they hopefully don't want to provide and find out if they own the debt outright: "[Your name] [Your return address] [Date] [Debt collector name] [Debt collector Address] Re: [Account number for the debt, if you have it] Dear [Debt collector name]: After reading an article recently about the occurrence of incorrect information being reported to credit reporting bureaus I've become concerned. For this reason, I would like to utilize my rights under the FDCPA guidelines to request that validation of all information pertaining to Acct name, acct # listed on my report is correct and valid. I also request the name and address of the original creditor, the original debt's amount, and proof that I owe this debt to you be provided. Or, please delete this in accordance with my civil rights protected under Federal Law. Be advised it is inconvenient for me to accept phone calls or any other method of communication other than US mail regarding this matter. Please communicate accordingly. Sincerely, Me Dawg" If they own the debt outright then I'm most likely going to send a more detailed DV targeted at JDB along with DV to the CRA. If they are a true CA I will most likely use the Pay OC strategy. Any input or advice would be very helpful!!!
  12. I am a Texas resident and have 3 accounts that are past the SOL but the OC is still showing a Past Due balance and reporting it every month. All three OCs have not sold the debt off and are still the OCs. Because of this I think it is hurting my scores a lot more than other old debts that haven't reported anything in the past few years. Accounts are with NFCU Credit Card, Conns Credit Installment Loan, and SYNCB/SMRTCN (Synchrony Bank/PayPal). What should I do? Should I dispute and if so what tactic and letters should I use since these are OCs and not CAs? They are past the Texas SOL. I have disputed these is the past with basic dispute letters but nothing has been removed just verified.
  13. I'll try to keep the back story short. Basically I started a new business venture a couple years ago that didn't pan out like I planned and I increased my DTI and utilization significantly during this time in order to just keep up. About six months ago, I purchased another business (got out of the failing biz) and sold some assets to pay down debt and invest in this hopefully 🤞more successful venture. One of those cards was my Chase Sapphire preferred. Fast forward a month after a large payment towards the balance (not a full balance payoff but about 60%) they chopped my limit substantially!!! This was going to be my preferred personal card going forward for the rewards. I thought maybe I'll finally get to take a vacation some day and use points and this was one of the best cards out there and I already had it my portfolio. My question is, has anyone had any success or have any tips for getting the limit restore or at least increased? From researching CB it sounds like Chase is a real beast to deal with which is unfortunate. They were always really good to me in the past. Other info that might be helpful: I have both my personal and business checking with them I have a Chase Amazon Visa with a super low limit that has been at 0% utilization for at least couple years now My business card is an Amex Blue Business with a $18K limit and 0% utilization. Chase declined me for a business line of credit due to NO CREDIT (for the business that is) and told me to reapply in 6 months My PenFed personal credit card is the only one with a high balance now and I'm working on that one little by little I did establish a pretty good relationship with a business rep at my local branch and I thought about going in to see if he could help (he's reversed some fees for me in the past on the business account) but I don't want to try that first without more research. Thanks in advance for the advice!
  14. Recently, paid off balance of closed Amex account (closed by them) and was offered the optima card to rebuild relationship. Should I open to rebuild and if so ask for deletion of the original amex account ?
  15. Hello, I have create a situation for my self that my monthly expenses exceed my monthly income so I been missing payments to my credit cards. I was thinking of cashing out one of my mutual funds and pay off two of my cards to reduce my monthly overhead, Best buy has offered me a settlement offer where I would pay them half of my total statement within 90 days and they would charge off the rest, but they would still show on my credit that this was paid but not all of it. And I still have to reach out to chase to see what options I have with them. My question is, is this a good idea right now I am way behind on the payments and killing my credit but not sure what is my best options. Any suggestions or recommendation? Also I own my home so I didn't want to so a bankruptcy.
  16. This discussion had come up several times recently, so I thought we would have a clear thread on this subject. Who does this help? People with clean reports. What does it do? It helps you eek out every point possible from the utilization portion of FICO scoring. What do you do? Let $2 report on 1 card and have the rest report $0. Why $2? Because you want non-zero utilization reporting on 1 card that is included in FICO utilization calculations. Experimenting with amounts lower than $2 has often resulted in the balance being credited to $0, so $2 is the smallest "non-zero" amount to use reliably. Are there any cards that this won't work for? Discover is $3 minimum. They will credit $2 to $0. Cards over $50K are not counted in utilization and also do not count. I verified all of this with BobWang via email. I'm not going to post the emails, but if for some reason that is not good enough, I will forward the emails to Breeze and let her verify the authenticity of this information.
  17. Hi everyone. I’m trying to repair credit for myself and my husband so we can get a good mortgage hopefully by next summer. We have some dings from job layoffs and not having emergency funds, but I have spent a year and a half getting our budget set up so we have a good buffer and should job loss happen we would still be able to pay our bills for a while. So, credit repair is the next step. I am hoping for some advice. I’ve been trying to do things on my own and I feel like I still am kind of clueless. I sent some verification letters but a mortgage lender told me having those disputed notes on my file is no good. Good? Stuff from my credit report: Capital One Quicksilver $1500CL, paid on time and utilization under 9%, opened 3/2017 Capital One Quicksilver One $500CL, paid on time and utilization under 9%, opened 11/2017 Comenity store card $610CL, paid on time and currently $98 balance, not sure if I should pay that down more - I hate to keep buying stuff and I want it to report, opened 10/2017 Self Lender that was paid off in 2/2019 so now it reports as closed Capital One auto loan, balance around $14,500, paid on time, opened 12/2018 All of my student loans report paid on time. The bad stuff from my credit report: Credit One chargeoff, reporting $0 balance, DOFD 1/1/2015 - I paid the CA for this one, both OC and CA are still showing right now (just paid it off for a settlement amount this month) Old Navy paid for less than full balance and closed in July 2013, reports past due through end of 2013. It says “account paid for less than full balance”. Not sure DOFD. Kohls chargeoff, DOFD 4/2013 Barclays chargeoff, reporting $0 balance, DOFD 2/2015, paid the CA for this one as well - both OC and CA report, similar to the Credit One account above. This also says “consumer disputes after resolution”. First Investors auto reposession 8/2015. Reports $0 balance. PRA $999 old Cap One card, DOFD 3/2015 Midland for Barclay, paid for less than full amount, CR has not updated yet Midland for Credit One, paid for less than full amount, CR Has not updated yet Penn Credit electric bill collection, placed 4/2016, planning to pay this week Professional Debt Mediation collection, planning to pay in the next few months, placed 2/2015 My husband has 2 open, paid on time Cap One cards (newer than mine), the auto loan, and then 3 collections that I am planning to address this year. Should I write letters to the original creditors to ask them to remove things? Should I just continue to pay off the CAs? I know PRA will now delete once it’s paid. Are there other letters I should write or steps I should take? I guess I just get confused as far as whether it’s beneficial to actually send all the validation stuff, or whether it’s actually harming my report. Thanks for any advice.
  18. Trying this again since i have more info- I have a lease from 4 yrs ago that’s been reporting as a collection. It was an eviction due to them getting sick of me paying two weeks into the month with late fees attached . I called the property today because i think the amount they are listing is incorrect. Apparently there is a new management company and i got this response..can i use this to my advantage? I do know NCC has the debt and is still reporting the original company I rented with as the owner. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.. ——————————————- We have recently purchased the community and changed management teams as of 01/04/2019 therefore, your account and file information was part of XYZ Company. I would have to refer you to them to find out what collection agency they placed your file with and how to get this resolved with them as the debt, if any, is owed to them. Please reach out to XYZ Company here in town and inquire about your home, 11-406, here at Axxxx and they should be able to provide you with Katherine’s information to reach her or another person in their management team that could assist you in finding the collection agency used to resolve this matter. Please see the ledger attached, this is all I have record of. Thank you, Laura J Property Manager
  19. Hi, Here I am trying to get back up. I had gone through some unfortunate circumstances while I was assigned overseas back in 2016. By the time I came back into the US, all my accounts were closed by CG but not CO. While trying to manage damage control, I was able to get few accounts saved from CO but most were CO by CG. Long story short, I managed to pay off Amex PRG and NFCU CLOC back then. Whatever was left eventually became CO past 120 Days marker. I have contemplated the idea of BK Ch7 and still meet mean tested standard. I did not go that route because I wanted to go back to school for Master and did not want to put hurdles in my way for any SL. I have finally gathered the courage to clean my files and start off with rebuilding while attempting to pay some of the prime lenders off by asking PFD. The reason I wanted to go this route is to later explain to any potential lenders that, despite default, I kept my obligations nad paid them off. I hope it testify to my ethics. (Please correct me if I am dreaming).While I rebuild, I ask all of your help to better plan my strategy. A bit about my currents goals and profile. I have three SL that have been in deferment with nothing late. I also have a vehicle lease that has 5x30 markers that is now current. I am starting off with two Secured CC. Since eventual graduation into an unsecured line is my ultimate goal, I am considering Discover It and NFCU Secured CC. I do realize that I have CO from NFCU. I called them to find out if I am still eligible for a secured CC while having a CO NFCU CC. The Rep told me I am, however, I was not quite satisfied from his explanation. Please guide me if I should attempt this. I had AMEX accounts in which PRG was paid in full, while two are CO. I am not sure if I am Black Listed by AMEX. AMEX have been sending me Optima offers to accept which I never accepted. Because I thought having CO (including two of AMEX) on CRAs, I won’t get it. Since I have family members who could add me as an AU, I, now, want to try this and see if I could be added as an AU. It will serve two objectives; a) It will show if I am blacklisted by AMEX. If I am, it will then help me draw a strategy as to how to resolve it by engaging EO. b) If I am able to get the card, it will help me rebuild my credit while giving me an opportunity to build a profile with AMEX without getting banned. Here is what I have on CRAs at the moment. Amex PRG 120 Days Cancelled by CG PAID IN FULL Amex BSP CO Canceled by CG $2494 Amex ED CO Cancelled by CG $2244 BOA CO Closed by CG $2800 Barclays CO Closed by CG $1180 Capital One CO Closed by CG $2110 (Deleted by the DF) Chase CO Closed by CG $5634 NFCU FVR CO Closed by CG $8000 NFCU CLOC 1X 90 DAYS MARKER PAID IN FULL Penfed CO Closed by CG $6111 Synchy CO Closed by CG $5600 Thank you for reading, all feedback, suggestions, guidance, and criticism is welcome😊
  20. We’re trying to rebuild my husband’s credit. He’s had two Capital One credit cards which he’s been paying in full and on time each month, but we realized they’re not being reported to the credit bureaus. He’s called Capital One and keeps getting the run around and being told they they’ll report, but they never do. I have good credit and a different Capital One card that is reported to the bureaus each month. Since he has poor credit, are they simply not reporting because they’re discriminating? I know they’re not legally required to report, but does he have any options or leverage here? Is it better to cut his losses and apply for a new card? Has anyone had a good experience with specific credit cards to help rebuild credit? Or should I add him as an authorized user?
  21. I have been working on improving my credit score the past couple of years. I started with a score in the high 400's with 6 charge-offs reporting on my CR. During this time I managed to arrange PFDs for all of them. Unfortunately, 2 OC's from the charge offs are still currently reporting from 2014. They are reporting with a balance of $0 and missed payments. I have sent 2 goodwill letters and proof of payment from debt collector on behalf of the OC to both remaining OC's with no response in the last 2 months from either. My FICO scores for TU/EQ now seem stagnant around the 665 mark. I currently have my car loan with $1700 remaining. I opened 2 secured cards last year which are Capital One with a $700 limit and Discover which already returned my deposited and increased my credit line to $1500. I am looking for any advice as to how I can increase my credit score from this point. Should I continue sending goodwill letters to the 2 remaining OCs? Should I open yet another secured card or apply for an unsecured?
  22. Sorry if it's been posted but I searched in the search bar and didn't come up with anything. I recently got a secured cc to start repairing my credit. My question is, if I make my first payment early will that affect me positively or negatively? Thank you in advance.
  23. Hello- I haven't posted in a while, thanks to the help I received from this outstanding community. Currently I am involved in a CR dispute with my car loan company, and I need some advice. A few months ago I received a call from the loan company notifying me that they've discontinued my automatic drafts from my checking account, due the fact that they didn't have my current address on file. I thought that this was strange, but arranged to pay the amount in arrears immediately. It was then when I inquired and was told that they reported me to the collection agencies. So they unilaterally ended my automatic payment plan because they didn't have a correct address, and because of they didn't get in contact with me they reported me to the agencies. They said that they attempted to contact me, but I have no record of that. And honestly if they did, I was really busy with building a house (I had to assume construction control - another story lol) in addition to my regular job and family concerns. I did not have the time, and did not think that I would have to concern myself with my automatic car loan drafts. This reporting by my car loan company has reduced my score over 40 points. They did this solely due to their ridiculous rule (which the agent mentioned to me on the phone that they are trying to change) - not because of my ability and intent to pay (I can prove the funds were in my account at the time). I need some advice on correspondence to send to the agencies to get this removed from my reports. Thank you in advance.
  24. Is a lease considered an open account or written contract? Logic is telling me written but I’ve here due to how leases are paid, it could be open. I’m in Virginia so it’s 3 vs 5 yrs difference. thanks!
  25. Hello all! My statement period ends on the 20th of the month, the company reports to the bureaus on the 20th of the month, and my payments are due on the 17th of the month. What date of the month should I actually pay my statement so as to achieve the max credit boost? Thanks in advance ladies and gents!!

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