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Found 751 results

  1. First off thanks in advance to all. Instead of making multiple threads, I will post my questions. question 1 If we have previously disputed account online, can we send in MOV letter by mail? Or should I dispute again by mail and have paper trail before sending MOV letter? question 2 If an account gets deleted, what happens if the next month the creditor reports the account again? Will it get re-inserted? question 3 Can a creditor stop reporting and have an account parked on your report? question 4 When sending a debt validation letter; can we just write down last door of ss number for security reasons? question 5 If one credit bearu deletes an account, can I use that proof to get another bearu to delete account? question 6 If an account is yours, but it’s reporting inaccurate; what violations can you use against a bearu to delete even if they know it is yours? Sorry if thread is long, I just want to make one thread instead of multiple threads.
  2. Basically, I'm wondering if it's worth it to pay collections if they don't accept my pay for delete offer to pay the entire bill. How will my score be affected if I pay it? Collections said the status would become paid in full. I'm dealing with Frontier communications (isp) and Credit Control Corp. Corp claims they are a 3rd party and that they do not ever sell the debt and that they're not exactly a collections agency. But they're the one's who reported a past due bill on to 2 of my 3 credit beaurues accounts. And everyone I've talked to there claim that their policy is to never ever delete anything. I asked what if someone is innocent, and their response was that it doesn't "ruin" their credit. These are the steps I've taken: Got fresh copy of all 3 credit reports Requested removal from experian (deleted) and equifax (not deleted) Requested proof of debt twice (they claimed they sent it twice, but I looked pretty diligently for it) Talked to 4 different reps and 1 supervisor, left voicemail for 2 other supervisors but never got a call back. Recorded most conversations and stated I was recording. Sent a pay for delete letter stating I'd pay the whole thing in exchange for deletion and that my offer is valid for 15 days.

  3. Has anyone had any success with Kohl's & Macy's goodwill letters? I just started helping a relative with her credit and she has 2 late payments to Macy's 15 months ago and 1 late payment to Kohl's LAST MONTH. Other than the above items and high utilization the rest of her reports are clean. Any suggestions? TIA
  4. I have an old closed/paid bank account that went derogatory back in 2012. This is my oldest account that was opened in 1999. Should I dispute the account as too old or try to dispute as never late to get the old late payments deleted? It hasn't been updated since 06/17 on EQ and 11/12 on EX and TU. 30: 09/12 60: 03/12, 04/12 90: 05/12, 06/12 Or since these will roll off within the next 12 months, should I just sit tight and let them age off? Is the value of the old closed account worth it? Thanks!
  5. I'm a newbie! I've learned quite a bit here. Over the last 3 years I've been really successfully at repairing my credit. We're planning to buy a house in 6 months and I really want the last two negative items off my credit report. 1) Is AT&T DirectTV. It's possible I didn't pay way back in 2008. But It says 2017. I absolutely 100% have not had any DirectTV in the last 5 years. I think they may have updated it when I disputed it via Experian online before? 2) Rash & Curtis. I was in the ER in 2008. But It's update to 2013. It's like they are trying to keep it on my file. I'm a bit overwhelmed to work on these last two items myself. Is there anyone recommend on the forums that I can pay to assist me? I didn't see any credit repair services listed here. I feel like at this point I'd rather pay an expert/professional to help me. Thanks everyone! Here's a screenshot.
  6. Hi, Just signed up recently after finding the boards through good ol' Google. I'll go find the introduction areas and do my profile style setup in a bit, but my original purpose for coming here is helping my roommate with some credit issues in her rebuilding process. The information I've read here has been immensely enlightening thus far, and I hope to continue to learn and help people with the knowledge. It inspires me to look into seeing about getting perhaps some CLIs for myself also. But I'll make a new topic when I go about that and read up on recommended ways. So for brief starters, her credit scores are (Per Credit Karma) a 427 on TU, and 454 on EQ. Main derogs are Dept of Ed/Navient with student loans, which she said at one point were reporting deferrals, but somewhere, only the last semester was deferring, the rest started reporting independently. I haven't found anything about those here or how they should be dealt with if there's a way at all? There are several medical issues on her reports as well, which I'm working with her currently to triage. Filed her opt-outs online on June 27th, 2017, so giving that a couple weeks to take before trying to get a lot of wrong and old addresses removed from the CRAs also. One of her reports (EXP) we had to mail off to receive as they couldn't identify her online. As said, we're at the point of waiting the couple weeks for the "Opt-Out" to take. I've bookmarked WhyChat's HIPPA section in case we have to resolve those that way. Some of the medical bills she thinks are legitimate and some she doesn't recognize at all. So any advice on paths to proceed after the unrecognized and illegitimate address removed, or in general is welcomed. Thank you all for such a wonderful forum, and in advance for any aid! Regards, Zan
  7. I haven't been on here in a couple of years but I have always held fond memories of the help and success I achieved when I used some of the information I found here on CB. I am now married to a man that is a true team player and we are trying to build the rest of our life. I was in an accident 3 months ago and because of the injury our income took a major hit and with that our credit. I do not know where to start to fix this. We want to start building our forever home next year and restart our trucking company but with the hits our credit is taking I don't think it will be possible short of some miracle. Does anyone have any advice or pointers? Any help is greatly appreciated...
  8. Everybody says it is hard to delete from Experian. But I'm having a heck of a time deleting old addresses from equifax. I've tried online and via paper method with no results. In fact, in order to log in to view my results, they make he check that I haven't lived in my home for more than 2 years and then list one of the disputed addresses - otherwise, they won't even let me log in. What is my best course of action?
  9. Hello, I had a Sears/Citibank account deleted from all 3 credit bureaus. Eventually, it reappeared under a Collectors called Midland Funding yet it's the exact account that the bureaus deleted. I tried sending them a copy of the deletion telling them it's the same account but they didn't remove it. I was wondering if you can guide me on how to solve this... I sent a letter to the collector too but you know how they are. I just don't want to be wasting my money on certified mail and notarizing for nothing. How to make sure that a deleted account doesn't reappear again once it was successfully disputed and removed from all credit reports.
  10. I realize it's suggested to order a fresh credit report directly from the credit bureau for a dispute. My question is would a free credit report from Annual Credit Report (reccomended by Bureau of Consumer Protection) be as accurate as a credit report obtained directly from the CRA?
  11. Folks, you have 2 choices: You can either sit there wondering why other people have what they have and can do what they can do, while you don't and can't, OR you can learn how to get what they have. I chose the latter. Here's my testimony: 10 months ago, my credit was so bad and scores were so low, I couldn't even borrow from myself (joke). I watched my brother fix up his and his wife's credit 15 years ago. Since then, they bought 2 homes, 1 in Baltimore and 1 in Pittsburgh. He was telling me that he was at the point where he could walk into any dealership and walk out with a new car, just like that, with no money down. I admit, I was kinda jealous of that. ME ON THE OTHER HAND, I remember one time coming home from driving over the road and trying to rent a car (with cash) for the weekend, and I couldn't because they required a credit card, which nobody in their right mind would ever give me. I was actually delusional enough to apply for a credit card. I'm surprised they didn't call the cops on me! 😂 I remember having to pay a huge deposit just to get a cell phone. 4 months after making a decision to fix my broken credit report, starting a credit repair program, learning the laws that govern debt collection practices, actually doing the work myself, as oppose to hiring some lame credit repair company (*caugh* Lexington Law) who just wants to make money off my misery, and learning how credit works, my credit scores went up nearly 200 points. My credit never looked this good in my life! Now, I'm getting approved for everything I couldn't before. All because I made a decision. Stop making excuses and start making that decision. Go get that house, car, loan, vacation, whatever it is you want or need that you think you can't.
  12. I used to lurk this forum for advice. I had my scores hovering around 700 when I lost my job and had two hospital stays. I kept my head in the sand for a few years until I got brave and ordered my paper reports. After triaging them, I realized that things were not as hopeless as I'd feared. This time I am being sensible. I'm not apping for crap cards or just any store card that will approve me, and I am certainly not carrying a balance on any of my cards. If I hadn't had high balances on so many cards before, I would have been fine. This time I'm focusing on cards that will actually benefit me, and getting fewer of them. I currently have five cards and a car loan. I'm wondering: would it serve any purpose to take out a rebuilder loan at my credit union, or just let these cards age? Also, would it be wise to wait one more year before disputing my three remaining medical accounts? They are currently three years old and my state's SOL is four years. I don't want to invite a lawsuit. Thank you for any advice.
  13. Hi all -- I'm new and happy to be here. Having already arbitrated with a P-to-P lender via JAMS and received a deletion and cash settlement, I am now ready to take on USAA. The issues are procedural (failure to report account as disputed to CRAs during lengthy direct dispute process) as well as substantive (duplicate account reporting for several months, inexplicably verified by EX and OC). My questions are these: When preparing the Demand for Arbitration for JAMS, is it best to include Experian as an additional defendant, or to arbitrate with them separately if necessary? I believe their TOS requires use of AAA. Does anyone have experience arbitrating with USAA? My inclination is that they will not settle as quickly as the P-to-P lender, who required some fight from me, but not all-out war. USAA seems like a different story. Note: I know that USAA uses AAA as the arbitration forum for credit card accounts, but I have a USAA FSB agreement that references JAMS, and the result letters USAA sent me all specifically come from USAA FSB, not the credit card operation.
  14. Hello forum; 2 unauthorized inquiries on my wife’s Experian report. Someone stole her social security number years ago, and applies for credit every now and then. I’m ask her to file a police report. Do we just dispute the inquiries, what if they don’t want to delete them? I’m place an alert on her file, thanks in advance.
  15. I have had these two accounts our of SOL over 4 years, I tried in the past to get them removed not owing the money and they refuse especially since it is now out of SOL. All they do is send all these statements but nothing to ever really prove its mine. Anyway now talking with Equifax they are reporting these SOL accounts as 180 past due.. they are not recorded as collections but accounts now past due.. How can this be fixed?
  16. I’m a 40-year old salamander who spent the last ten years screwing up his finances and credit. No excuses. I did this. I started writing this by giving a ton of details and background, but its way to long. I’m summarizing, but if anyone is wondering how someone got themselves into this mess, let me know and I’ll be happy to share. Let’s start with this year. Jan 2018: Open the year rocking impressive low 500 FAKOs, but I had a plan, and I had executed it for six months. 1) Pay stuff on time to stop more derogs from hitting my reports 2) cut back on my spending 3) stop being an salamander. I bring home about $70K annually yet constantly wonder why I'm in the predicament I'm in. I slashed my budget to the bone and faced all of my delinquent accounts. I was able to make arrangements (some better than others) with open accounts and threw as much money at them as possible. Apr 2018: Delinquent Fed and State taxes paid in full, my car note was caught up and showed current for the first time in over a year. I started using various free services to track FAKOs, and monitor my reports. I successfully DV’ed and booted a couple CA/JDB accounts that had been “erroneously” re-aged and popped up. FAKOs were moving in the right direction, but wanted more. May 2018: I pulled my official annual reports. All my remaining charge-offs had stayed with the OC’s and were within SoL. JDB’s and CA’s removed. Public records and tax liens were gone also! Only 2 hard pulls in the past two years. Ugh, but the lates!! So MANY lates!! In seven years, I had managed to rack up 118 late payments! Is that a record? I think it might be! 43 of them are 4+ years old 73 between 2016 and 2017 2 were from the beginning of this year while I was in the “catch-up” program on my car. So yeah, 35% to 50% on time payment depending on which report you look at. Absolutely mortifying. Jun 2018: I decided to budget in three or four months for a myFICO subscription while I actively addressed my reports. I had made some progress from the beginning of the year: EQ 587 up from 490 EX 604 up from 550 TU 604 up from 590 Utilization oddly showed it was 160% over available credit. How’s that? A little research revealed the current balance and credit limit of the charge-off accounts were contributing to my utilization. That’s 30% of my score. I can do something about that! 1) Pay the OC’s in exchange for at least a “Paid In Full” status 2) Continue paying all accounts on time 3) Continue the never ending quest to stop being an salamander. July 2018: … and here’s how things stand now: FICOs the same except for TU, which jumped from 604 to 613 apparently due to balance decreases and account improvements. Mortgage (Modified) - $120K – 12 months on-time payments / Pays account as agreed / Loan modified non-gov’t in comments / 10 lates within 2 years Car Note - $11K – 6 months on-time payments / Pays account as agreed / 20 lates within 2 years Student Loans (Consolidated) - $84K – 1 on-time payment/ Pays account as agreed / 0 lates AMEX - $1000 Charged Off / $500 limit – PAID IN FULL Capital One - $1500 Charged Off / $1000 limit – PAID IN FULL / Pulled back from CA Capital One - $1000 Charged Off / $750 limit – PAID IN FULL / Pulled back from CA Kohls/Capital One - $500 Charged Off / $350 limit: Will be paying it off today or tomorrow. AT&T - $500 Charged Off / not reporting: Will be paying it off today or tomorrow. Divorce Settlement - $10K / not reporting: Lump sum payment this week. Est Remaining Debt Starting Aug 2018 - $215K Once the dust settles, I’ll see what the scores and reports look like in a couple months. My plan is to go for two secured cards (probably Discover IT and Bank of America) and I was invited to enter the AMEX Optima program. I’ve lived on a cash basis for the past two years and I’m not changing that mindset. The only difference is I’ll be using the cards and paying everything off mid cycle prior to the corresponding bureau reporting dates and statement closing dates. I don’t expect everything to smell like roses tomorrow, or next week, or next month, or next year. It took about ten years to dig this hole. Why should I expect a 30 day fix? What I am grateful for is finding the discipline and motivation to climb out. I owe much of that to you folks. Thank you for sharing your stories, tears, frustrations, and joys. Your experiences have given me a framework to build my own plan. I hope to pay that back to this community with my ongoing story already in progress. - round2forme
  17. I have a CO loan that hasnt been updated since 2/2015 DOFD is 10/2013 The CA is JH Portfolio. I haven't heard anything from them in 2 or 3 years but they update monthly. Any ideas on how to get the OC deleted?
  18. My scores are 578 EX, 545 TU, 600 EQ with 1 paid charge off/3 paid collection accounts/3 unpaid accounts/ 1 $5k secured card (6mo)/2 authorized user accounts ($8k & 27k) and 4 inquiries. I would love some advice on how to proceed to get my scores higher. Should I pay off or settle my 3 unpaid accounts? they total $22k. Please advise
  19. First, Happy Saturday All!!! I hope I have placed the topic in the correct forum. Hi, I respect the opinions of the people here on credit boards and I really need some advice. I have my 2017 tax debt that Im paying on right now. It was $4400 and it is now down to about $3800. I am also $17, 840.60 in credit card debt. I am currently out of work on disability. My fixed income has allowed me to make my credit card payments on time and also keep up my payment plan for paying off my tax debt. I am married and my husband does work and he is paying some of the tax debt but he and I do not pay each other’s credit card bills. This money that I am coming to is personal money that I will not have to pay income tax on. I am going to receive $11, 700. My immediate thought was to pay my tax debt off straight away. And his is most likely what I will be doing. Now I will be left with about $8000. Here is the breakdown of my credit card debt. How should I allocate this 8K. My debt to income ratio will improve by 8 k no matter how I allocate the money but I need my credit score to go up. Amex - $5000 Limit, $4947.74 Balance (maxed) 20.99% interest BCU - $5000 Limit, $4923.51 Balance (maxed) 16.5 % Chase - $3000 Limit, $2783.96 Balance (Maxed) 0% until 10/6/18 then 25.49% Macys - $2700 Limit, $2200 Balance, 26.99% Walmart - $1780 Limit, $1679.39 Balance, 24.65% Citi - $900 Limit, $649.25 Balance, no interest until 4/11/19 Cap One - $600 Limit, $515 Balance, 24.65 % JC Penny - $500 Limit, $100 Balancce, high interest Gap - $200 Limit, $35 balance, high Interest HOW SHOULD I ALLOCATE? I want everyone who reads this to know that I will not pay down my debt just to spend on these cards again. I have learned my lesson and I want financial freedom more that I want “things” at this point in my life. Thank you so very much for your advice on this.
  20. I have an old Direct Tv collection that has been assigned to a collection agency. I am trying to get a mortgage and the UW said I need it to be paid to 0 on my reports. Direct TV will not recall the debt after speaking to a supervisor. The collection agency will not do a PFD. Should i pay the collection agency on their behalf or direct tv? It is only being reported by the collection agency and not direct tv. will paying in full reset the 7 years of reporting?
  21. Well i swore it wouldn't happen but it did. I wound up with 61% credit card utilization and need a strategy to get out of debt. I've been looking at Greenpath, also I've had part time weekend 2nd job at Lowes since February 2018, it has helped. We've cut expenses but probably can do better. Need help from the masters! Thank you in advance. Will be happy to post cc debt and expenses.
  22. Hello, Ok...ok don't laugh at me too hard. I know it sounds crazy but IF....I could pull this off and of course potential ramifications come into play; so let me have it to keep me focused. Scenario--- I have a Santander account at $1800 that was written off and sold to NCB. Both are not scheduled to fall off my credit reports until mid year 2020. The car, well for all argument sake, will run and has a great deal of sentimental value to me (and my daughter). Yes, I know it is a piece of metal that can be replaced. MarvBear has been helping me over in the Automotive section regarding some of the things I was working on getting beater etc. This is my oldest account (over 12 years), so helping my AAOA(correct???), as all my positive tradelines have been created just this year. So, here is where all the IF's come into play (insert some of the Keven Hart's Ok...OKKKKKay....Okkayyyy's in here now lmao). If, the Florida motor vehicle information confirming the title lien is still in Santanders name(again from other post in Automotive); and I want to get the title thus going through Santander ultimately at some point. If I wait till both Santander and NCB fall off my report, I will still want the title and will have to go through this with Santander at some point, correct to get a title? So, I am thinking "IF" I contact Santander and work this deal out---(yes I know good luck) -We agree to a dollar amount of $900.00 (total amount) -This will get NCB removed (part of the agreement-after my first payment is received) -The even bigger IF...request they re-age it and remove all the negative payments (stop laughing now) -even if they don't remove the negative payments, I will end up paying $900.00 and get the title -understanding if they make this as X-amount of payments that I agree to(thus the re-aging) help to get this as paid in full as I do want to purchase a home in the near future--next 1-2 years. -definitely getting this in writing from them I understand this re-aging will put me on the hook for up to another long 7 years of restarting the clock if I sign an agreement with them. I remember some of the situation, where I thought I owed 1 last payment and then all this interest from "no where" came out along with my decline in body/mind unable to work scenario back then...it was a hot mess. At the end of the day, if they said max amount you owe us is $1800(no further interest will accrue--flat out $1800), we will accept payments on this and update it on your credit report (I would have to have the removal of the baddies), with the REMOVAL OF NCB (after first payment or something) and then I get the title; I would do it. I am looking at, I did owe them something and I want the title. Ultimately trying to turn a re-aging into something positive on my oldest AAOA and get the NCB tradeline removed off my credit report to boot. Trying to turn the lemon to lemonade. Ok....smack me around and keep me focused please.
  23. I will try to give a cliffnote version & hopefully you all will have some good advice. Hubby & I went through a very bad time for several years & our Credit was in the dumps. Repos, charge offs etc... He had been extremely ill from a near fatal heart attack & needed a heart transplant (11/29/09 ❤️Thank you to our donor who is forever in our prayers). This left him disabled & on SSDI. I had to work part time to care for him & our credit took a major hit. We filed Chapter 7 & started to rebuild then got hit again with hard times but muddled through it. I finally was able to go back to work full time making decent money & w e started to rebuild our credit. Things were FINALLY looking up for us. We were excited watching our scores go up, being able to actually pick out a new car instead of the dealer saying no this is the only car you ca n have... we were able to obtain credit cards with decent limits etc.. then I lost my job. Unemployment paid me the max but that whole month was not even what I made in one paycheck! We were still squeezing by but barely. I was having a hard time finding a job & just as unemployment ran out I got hurt & had to have major surgery which landed me on disability for 9 months plus a ton of medical bills. Now we were starting to fall a little behind on things. Then & still no job....which means no way of paying the bills. We were devastated as we watched everything come crashing down around us. We fough hard to climb our way up & we couldn’t even offer $10 a month to some of our cards. Slowly they began closing them & then the charge offs started. I watched as our scores nosedived. It was like someone punched me in the stomach. So now we’re down to barely any open credit lines left. One car we managed to pay off through all of this & we’re almost caught up with our other car (that is the bright spot in all of this). I start a new job next week & we will slowly rebuild again. My question is this, since most were charged off & bought by collection agencies if I pay these will I be able to reapply for a card / Credit with that company again after we rebuild our credit back up? I am hoping all bridges weren’t burnt by the charge offs. Any advice is greatly appreciated! This sucks having to do this all over again. We do not want to do BK again so we’re trying to see if we can pay the charge offs. Does this sound like something we should do still?
  24. IvyMgmt

    "B" Credit

    Is it still possible to do that?
  25. Hi all, long time follower, new member, first post. Good stuff up front. Details later. Scores: July 7 - TransUnion Vantage - 652 - July 28 - 731 (+79) June 22 - Experian Vantage - 688 - July 28 - 736 (+48) July 6 - Experian FICO - 714 - July 28 - 761 (+47) July 26 - Equifax Vantage - 660 - July 28 - 737 (+77) June 26 - Equifax FICO - 711 Background: I was a very successful Realtor for 12 years, but I lost my spouse to Cancer in 2011. After that ordeal and a bout of grieving/depression, my score bottomed out in the low 500's. Lots of late payments--sometimes due to lack of money--sometimes due to a lack of energy to pay the bills. I started rebuilding my credit with a secured card 5.5 years ago. The last seriously late payment dropped off my report last Spring. The facts: 1) Your payment history counts more than other single item in your score calculation (no news here). 2) Credit utilization is considered next. 3) Credit age is almost as important as credit utilization. 4) Recent inquires have a minimal impact. My idea: As a Realtor and a student of credit, I have always been told that transferring balances from one account to another does not greatly impact your credit score. However, I am a student of bureaucracies and how to find loopholes in their systems. So, my idea is that I know that I can handle my debt load, but each of my accounts reports on a different day of the month (typically 1-4 days after the statement prints). By transferring balances between accounts, I can decrease my credit utilization--the second most important part of the score calculation. The Numbers: I have 7 credit card accounts showing on my reports: On July 1 here is what my reports showed... Limit/Balance 23,100/20,600 15,000/14,700 8,000/8,004 9,500/8,000 5,000/2,200 5,000/1,400 8,000/0 Credit Utilzation 76%, several cards close to limit, and one card over limit. I had some money to apply to these balances, but all did some transferring around and today, my report shows... Limit/Balance 23,100/9,600 15,000/13,600 8,000/300 9,500/300 5,000/1,100 5,000/1,400 8,000/0 Credit Utilization 35%, only one card close to limit, nothing over. In two more, weeks, I will be done with moving some additional balances and my report will show... Limit/Balance 23,100/500 15,000/300 8,000/300 9,500/300 5,000/1,100 5,000/1,100 8,000/0 Credit Utilization will be 5%, nothing close to limit. My reasons: 1) I wanted to see if I could do this and what the impact would be. 2) I need some capital for my business and rates will be better if my score is better. Lessons learned: 1) Credit only matter on the day that you apply. 2) Credit utilization is really two things (a) total utilization AND (b) utilization per account. I'll post my results back once I am done with this project (about August 13)

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