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  1. Someone please help me I am trying to get an eviction off of my credit report. It is the only thing I have aside from two medical under $200. My eviction collection is 1500. I have Navy Federal and I am now working really can use a credit card, but wanting to wait a few months my score is 524.?
  2. Tons

    Credit

    Is it possible to remove late payments?
  3. Pulling EX report, I see many old addresses, some linked to 5 year old (Charge Offs) COs. Strategy is to: 1. establish a new mailing address in my Experian credit profile. (already done) 2. freeze all reporting in: Lexis Nexis: https://www.lexisnexis.com/privacy/fo... Innovis: https://www.innovis.com/securityFreez... SageStream: https://www.sagestreamllc.com/securit... ARS: https://www.ars-consumeroffice.com/se... Then, I go back to EX and dispute - attempt delete all old addresses by having issued a freeze on all the aforementioned credit bureaus. -- CB cannot cross reference COs 3. Dispute accuracy of COs, 4. Dispute the 1 collection. Wait 60 days, rinse and repeat steps #3 and #4
  4. Hi all, I signed up for a gym membership at Blink Fitness, I never actually used the facilities except once. my card got hacked and the auto pay stopped subsequently, after a while a received a call from a collection agency called "Aldous and Associates" collecting the debt from the contract I breached from Blink. I obviously requested a verification letter, and got back the original contract I have with Blink. Here is the letter I am am about to send out. feel free to comment if something is wrong there. I hope its gonna work, and that some will find it informative. Dear Sir/Madam @ Aldous and Associates, PLLC I am writing in response to the the contract was sent to me by your firm regarding an alleged breach of contract that I had with Blink Fitness. I carefully went over the contract again and I fail to see the legitimacy of the debt, this debt is an error on the part of Blink Fitness, I will go into greater detail once I am fully informed about the complete chain of title of Aldous and Associates form the original creditor. Please note that in New York State, where I am located, the debt collector is required to provide “a statement describing the complete chain of title from the original creditor to the present debt owner, including the date of each assignment”, the above information wasn't provided to me, which consequently means that the debt is still in dispute. In order for me to be able to communicate my concerns with the contract, I will need to be redirected directly with the creditor, or someone who owns the debt. There is no indication in my agreement with Blink Fitness that someone else whom I have no evidence to own the debt should be in communication with me regarding the alleged breach of contract. In addition please note that despite the fact that the letter was received by your firm on 10/30/2016 requesting that all communication must be done in writing and sent to me by mail, I received a voicemail on the phone number on file that there is a debt that has to be paid to your firm. Please note that this is a violation of the FCRA.
  5. How, you ask? Simple - you just can't win. Look at the two items I have here from Credit Karma (yeah, I know - FAKO not FICO, but the principle remains the same). Same date....... Same amount of change in total Credit Card debt Same direction in the amount of debt - down. Same Credit Card Company involved in the change. Same change in number of Credit Core points What's different? One (EFX) went UP six points, and one (TU) went DOWN six points. It's not the number of points that I am questioning, it is the fact that the exact same documented change cause one score to h=go up, nd another to go down, and both by the exact same number of points. You have better odds in a Casino, and a crooked one at that. .
  6. A "backdoor number" is one that gets you past frontline CSR's directly to Credit Analysts / Credit Departments / Account Managers / Account Specialists (different lenders call 'em different things) - these people/departments have decision-making abilities far beyond frontline CSR's; they can take and review requests for reconsideration of denied CC apps or CLI requests, APR reductions, etc. and implement their decisions. I can continuously update this first post with the latest information if everyone will post to this thread. I'll make the change and acknowledge. We deeply appreciate your participation. Amazon (store card): see Synchrony (GE) AMEX: (Oasis Program) AMEX: 866-314-0237 (new app status) AMEX: 800-582-6471 (recon with frozen EX for pin) AMEX Business charge cards - (877) 399-3083 AMEX Credit Bureau Unit: 800-874-2717 (Must have a current credit report before calling. They will ask for the account number from the credit report, which is different from your card number) Barclays: 888-232-0780 (Customer Care) Barclays: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst) BBVA Compass Bank: (American Express Card issues only) 866-246-2924 Best Buy: 877-420-0001 Best Buy: 888-908-9890 (Credit Analyst, existing accounts only) BofA: 888-260-4696 (secured accts.) BofA: 800-824-5895 (secured & partially secured accts.) BofA: 704-386-5687 (Office of the CEO) BofA: 888-500-6270 (Credit Dept. Fax) BofA Business: 877-665-5023 (Analyst/UW) BofA Business: 877-665-5023 (New applications) BofA Business: 800-442-1043 Cap1: 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist) Cap1: 800-951-6951 (cust. relations) Cap1: 800-548-4593 (application department; status) Cap1: 800-889-9939, 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist) Cap1: 877-513-9959 (Account Retention?) Cap1: 800-258-9319 (Debt Recovery) Cap1: 866-280-0118, 800-955-1455 (EO) (Nerfed in general) Cap1 Secured Platinum: 800-219-7931 (deposit taker, can speak to credit analyst) Chase: 800-432-3117 (App status) Chase Executive Office 800-242-7399 Chase Personal CC Recon 888-270-2127 Chase Business CC Recon 800-453-9719 Chase: 800-453-9719 (Business card lending) Chase Lending - 888-609-7805 (Credit Analysts) Chase: 800-242-7399 Chase: 800-955-9900 (Product change status questions) Chase: 888-298-5623 (Consolidation - M-F 8am-10pm EST) Chevron/Texaco Biz Card App Status: 888-243-8358 Citi: 800-645-7240, 800-288-4653 (Citi Business) Citi: 800-750-7453 (Business) Citi 888-201-4523 (Personal) Citi: 718-248-0847 (EO) Citi: 800-695-5171 (New Accounts UW) Citi: 605-331-1698 (EO - CC division) Citi Credit Bureau Dispute Fax: 866-713-5028 Comenity: 800-303-1368 (Consumer Relations - Recon) Discover: 888-676-3695 (New Accounts) Discover: 866-305-7691 (Direct Line TO CS) Discover: 866-222-0536 (EO) Elan: 800-364-9648 (CC underwriting, business and personal) Equifax: 800-846-5279 (Direct to Rep) Equifax Executive Office 404-885-8000 Experian: 800-493-1058, 800-208-9232 (9AM-5PM ET, need report number from EX) ExxonMobil Biz Card: 800-903-9966 FIA: See Elan FNBO: 800-444-6220 GEMB: 877-294-7541 (escalated help desk) Haverty's/Sync: 800-333-1082 Home Depot Store Card: 800-677-0232 (Credit Analyst) Home Depot Store Card: 423 467 6957 (App Status/Recon) Home Depot MC (Commercial): 800-720-0649 Home Depot: 800-685-6691 (Commercial) Hooters: 801-545-6705, 800-850-4668 HSBC: 866-574-4421 (App Status) HSBC: 866-719-3897 (Credit Analyst) JC Penney: 800-542-0800 Juniper: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst) Juniper/Barclays: 866-750-6031 (Corp. Offices) Key Bank: 888-201-4523 (App status) Key Bank: 800-254-2737 Key Bank MC: 800-288-4653 Key Bank Credit Research Fax: 216-357-6400 Lowes: see Synchrony (GE) Macy's: 800-627-2909 (Credit Dept. - new credit, inquiries on upgrade to Visa, credit reporting issues) Macy's: 800-543-9617 (Recovery Services) Marvel: see Synchrony (GE) Meijers MC: 801-517-5560 National City: 800-762-0974 (Credit Dept.) Nationwide Visa: 866-757-2720 (App. status) Nordstrom: 800-964-1800 (CLI) Orchard: 800-395-6090 (May get answered in Spanish by bilingual CSR's. If this happens and you don't speak Spanish, either try again later or try saying "Habla ingles?" or "Ingles, por favor" to let them know you're an English-speaker) Philips 66: 866-289-5630, 800-610-1961 PNC Bank: 800-762-2117 (Business CC) PNC Bank: 877-562-0150 (Business UW) Sam's Club: 800-301-5546 (Underwriting) Sears: 800-599-9710 (App status) Shell Fleet Card: 800-223-3296 (App status) Shell: 800-223-3296, 866-438-7435 Shell: 800-377-5150 Staples: 800-767-1291, 800-282-5316 Sunoco Corp. Card: 800-935-3387, 800-278-6626 Sunoco: 800-310-4773 Synchrony (GE): 800-240-0512, 800-480-0205 (Biz) Synchrony (GE): 800-588-4290 (Consumer) Synchrony (GE): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW) Synchrony (GE): 888-885-6937 (Verification) Synchrony (GE): 800-333-1082 (Haverty's) Synchrony (GE): 866-519-6441 (Marvel CC, Sr UW) Target Biz Card: 800-440-5317 Tiffany: 800-770-0800 Transunion: (312) 466-7719 (Corporate Office Resolution Team Voicemail) Transunion: (610) 546-4600 (Corporate Office, need extension or last name to search directory) USAA Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 ext 38763 (secured product specialist) US Bank: 800-685-7680 (Underwriting) US Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 (underwriters for secured product) Valero: 877-882-5376 Walmart (Sync): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW) Walmart (Sync): 877-969-5302 (Verification) Wells Fargo: 866-677-1128 (CC Executive Office) Wells Fargo: 844-576-6424 (Executive Office) Wells Fargo: 877-514-3717 (Amex Propel Credit Svcs) Wells Fargo: 844-879-4824 (Direct # for Product Change Credit Svcs) Wright Express: 888-743-3893
  7. Why Pay for someone to help you build your credit with this tool its very easy and will help you build credit back up in no time!
  8. Iv been battling this car loan late payment with Ally financial for a year now. Iv called and sent dispute/forgiveness letters to Ally trying to get the 30 days late payment removed but they wont budge. I've always paid a lil more then what's due. Because of Covid I looked up the Fair credit act to see if there's protections for us from having negative marks on our credit during the pandemic but still no luck for me. Does anyone have any suggestion for me this is my only late payment.
  9. I'm 3 for 3 on firm no's. I don't know what else to do. All CEOs, or their staff, replied saying they are required to report accurate information. As far as I'm aware that is true, but technically, they can choose whether or not to report the account at all? Is it worth responding and telling them that, or am I just wasting my time? The worst ones are paid charge offs from 2017, so I suppose they won't be affecting my credit in the near future. But the most recent is synchrony/paypal credit from 2020. Worst status 120 days late, not charged off, but last 30 day late was in January 2021. Then I paid it off completely. It's tanking my credit score and I really want to get a better interest rate on my car. Side note: being bipolar sucks. I was diagnosed in 2020, it consists of impulsive spending followed by months long depression. I've got a handle on it now that I know what I'm dealing with... But do I really need to wait 7 years to stop dealing with the consequences of my manic episodes? Thank you.
  10. I tried a 100 day trial for a mattress and didn't relies I was basically taking out a small loan. Before the trial ended I refunded the mattress and they gave me back my money and now I have a closed installment account on my report. All my payments where on time I just want to remove the closed account from my Experian credit report. My original dispute was rejected does anyone have any suggestions?
  11. Hello guys. I’m a 22 year old who got their first credit card last year. I ended up getting 3 and was VERY dumb with them. I owe $500 to Discover, $460 to Macy’s & $1,200 to Nordstrom. I currently have closed accounts from all 3, but only Macy’s and Nordstrom have flagged my account as a charge off. Is there is ANY way to get them to delete the “closed account” and “charge off” history off my credit report. I just got my tax returns and have enough to pay them all in full. All I want is to have a CLEAN credit report as if I had just started from scratch. I just got off the phone with Nordstrom CC services and she told me they don’t do pay for delete, as they have to accurately update the credit bureau, but that if I fully pay, in 10 days, the balance on my account will update to zero, meanwhile if I do a settlement, it’ll update 30 days after the last payment has been received. I asked if I could negotiate through mail, and she said all they could do is send me a “current status letter”. I didn’t know this stuff stays on your report for 7 years. I really hate myself for this.
  12. In 2019, with impeccable credit, I requested a TJMAXX card with Synchrony Bank (SYNCB/TJX) and got approved for $2,000. Amidst crisis and turmoil where I live, paying about $200 I owed from a purchase slipped through the cracks. I have 5 negative marks for late payment. I immediately paid the balance in full. In fact, I always do. The account was closed by the credit grantor. This small sum owed, essentially ruined my credit and I’m in the process of recovering it now. Even though I’m sending dispute letters to the 3 credit bureaus, I’m wondering if it’s a good idea to send a request for Goodwill elimination of my marks directly to Synchrony Bank. My credit history since then shows that I pay all my balances in full in a timely way. I even have bank statements of significant purchases made at the TJMAXX stores since. The crisis and unrest experienced during the period of time where I live when the late payments were made is a testament to the hardships at that time….which led to notices received about late payments slipping through the cracks. I’m confident I can make a good case in a Goodwill letter and offer to open a new card once credit is restored, but I don’t even know if its worth a shot and if that kind of consideration is commonly granted. Logic tells me that pleading to the actual bank for consideration would be more efficient than continuing to knock on the bureaus’ doors with disputes. Any insights or help?
  13. In reviewing my Equifax report, I noticed 4 accounts that have comments saying "Payment is payroll deductible." 3 of the accounts are closed and charged off credit cards. The 4th is open and being paid as agreed with never any lates. It is clearly not an error in reporting by the creditors because it shows like this on each account (with different dates): 04/2016 Payment is payroll deductible 08/2016 Payment is payroll deductible 02/2017 Payment is payroll deductible I am 100% Positive I have no judgements against me that would enable a credit card debt to be payroll deductible. Is this an effort on behalf of the creditors to further damage my credit by making it appear that an there has been a judgement against me for a particular debt when that has never actually occurred? I've done extensive searching online and haven't found any answer as to why this comment appears.
  14. Due to a serious lapse in judgment I acted on the "spend $45 on a new Sam's Club membership/get $45 back" Amex offer, and we joined when I was among the mud people last week. The store was awful. The selection is much smaller than Costco's, and the merchandise itself (aside from national/known brands) is largely lower-end/riffraff stuff. One entire aisle of refrigerated/frozen items was empty. Merchandise displays were messy. We bought two bags of frozen berries and left. Then the email for using the Amex offer never arrived. I looked at my receipt, and the membership was processed as a renewal, not a new membership, even though we haven't been members for over a year (we joined for free once before, shopped once, and never returned), so the purchase didn't qualify for the Amex offer. A couple of days later I logged into my Sam's Club account online, and sent a brief, polite request for a membership refund, and cited their published terms and conditions which state: "The Sam’s Club Membership has a 100% satisfaction guarantee. If at any time a member is not satisfied with their membership, Sam’s Club will refund the entire membership fee." The response: Nowhere in their satisfaction guarantee does it state that you have to go to a store to get the membership fee back. I let them know that I am in a different city for the next several weeks and I do not have a Sam's Club location that is convenient (there is exactly one in the entire San Diego metro area, and it's in a neighborhood where I wouldn't leave my car unattended). The next closest store is in Murietta, which is practically in Oregon. I indicated that if they didn't want to refund my money based on this second written request I would resolve this by disputing the charge with Amex. Three days later, no reply. I just got off the phone with Amex, and now I am done with this Chocolate Goodness retailer forever.
  15. I sent out a validation letter to a medical collection on the 1st. today the 17th i got an alert that a new account was added. The account was never removed to my knowledge but it is the same Collection but now the balance says zero. Why would they do this? I haven't received any response from them. Should I wait the 30 days to see if they remove, or move forward with another letter? Thanks for any response
  16. I am trying to help a friend out that does not have access to the internet. He said the templates are nothing more than pre-done forms to remove or amend credit errors. I have been looking for hours. I was wondering if anything can either attach or tell me where to find them. Thank you!!
  17. Hi everyone, I am a bit confused about a letter I have received from Wells Fargo. It is an old auto loan that was charged off in 2018 (repo). I have only removed addresses and frozen lexisnexis,innovis, etc at this point. I received a letter from WF stating that due to the age of my account they are cancelling the balance, and will no longer attempt to collect. This seems strange to me that they would voluntarily cancel a debt before I've disputed anything. What should I do if anything regarding this letter. I'm hoping the credit Gods are just dropping a blessing down on me
  18. Hello all. The title says just about everything. Is it known whether or not AMEX holds closed accounts against you when opening new ones? I had three (3) AMEX accounts, none of them were Gold. I entered all three in a DMP (I wanted to keep one open, but the DMP told me not to or else lenders may not accept the plan). I just paid off all three well ahead of the end of the DMP end date. To my knowledge, I have not be subject to an F/R. FICO scores as follows: EX 713 TU 717 EQ 701 I was approved for the CSP yesterday (7/23/21) so I will have a new account lowering my AAoA. I not looking to apply for the AMEX Gold for a few months (depending on your feedback). Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Finally posting on this forum after gawking for a while. 🙂 I've been working on my credit repair the last couple of years and am kind of at that point where I'm not sure if there is anything else I can do but wait it out. Had a medical issue back in 2016 / 17 which contributed to somewhere around 12 account charge-offs and a car repossession. Over the past year and a half, I've been aggressively paying the accounts off (all are at zero balance, settled), disputed as many as I could (several fell off, am doing another round this month), opened five rebuilder / secured / sub prime cards starting two years ago (Citi Secured, Self Secured, Cap 1 Secured, Cap 1 Unsecured, Credit One Unsecured), did the Self Lending self loan (like 6 months left on that one), Experian Boost, have had a high interest car loan the last two years, am about to replace it with a newer car loan at a lower rate, and obviously keep cards paid off every month and paid on time (*accidentally had a 30 day late when I was changing banks and forgot to update the account that was on autopay). Looks like stuff starts aging off in 2023 and 2025. Scores went from the low 500s to 696 Trans, 712 Equifax, 625 Experian. The problem I'm having is that even with everything settled, zero balances, and "good" scores," I'm still in purgatory when it comes to getting an actual decent points card. Capital One gave me an unsecured one a few months ago, but it's a $300 limit on a non rewards card. And since I already have two cards with them (one which is my oldest card now), even though their my "best bet" in the nearterm for a better card, i'm at their card limit. Goal Cards in the future are Chase Sapphire, AMEX Blue, AMEX Gold, and Citi Premier. Current plan is to just keep sending dispute rounds every few months, keep balances at zero, not apply for anything new at least until early 2022. Is there anything I'm missing? Anything I can do sooner to help compensate for the scars from the past on my credit report?
  20. I’m newly separated and I’m trying to re-establish my credit and financial independence. There are 4 collections on my credit report that my husband was responsible for when we were together in 2020. We both had extensive blood work done by a lab of which he was paying. We separated and he has not been paying so it went to collections and showed up on my report. I just disputed them online a few days ago and am waiting to see if they are removed. It has my name and not his. Is it even conceivable they will be deleted? My score is in the 500 range right now. I don’t have much credit but want to repair and build.
  21. Hi! I have a Cap1 account with 4 Lates that are keeping my score at 710, when everything else is clean, low utilization and old, diverse report. The attached screenshot below has all the details... Late payments: Jun 2019 60 day, May 2019 30 day, Feb 2019 30 day, Nov 2017 30 day Any ideas for dealing with this? All posts I've seen here mentioned that the EO etc are not very useful these days. I don't care to lose the whole tradeline, I have plenty other accounts that are older. All I got for my trouble last time I tried to remove via goodwill is this message on the file: "Account previously in dispute – now resolved – reported by subscriber" Thanks for your input!
  22. Hi All, I'm trying to understand the best approach on good will letters for two cards that I settled a few years ago and finished paying in 2020. I had a Bank of America card and Amex which were both charged off after working with a debt settlement company. I was then sued by both cards and BoA garnished my bank account. After hiring a lawyer, the accounts got settled and I finished paying last year. However, the law firm I hired didn’t secure any guarantee to remove the cards from my credit report after payment. I'm starting to look for car leases through Honda and want to improve my scores to get the best rate/amount before I apply so I’m trying to figure out how to handle those two accounts in particular. My FICO scores are currently - Ex: 646; Eq: 657; TU: 617. The issues are: * Serious delinquency * Few accounts paid on time * No loan activity * Bad payment history I've done a few things to start counteracting the effects, including: * Opening a credit card account with Amex (1k limit) in November of last year, not using it too much and paying it in full each month. * Opening a Capital One card (2k limit) in April, using it more frequently for every day purchases and paying full balances every few weeks. * Opening a credit builder loan this month to establish a consistent payment history. * Asking my girlfriend who has excellent credit and a long credit history to put me on as a registered user. I think these are good steps to take, but the obvious big issue is the serious delinquency, so I'm trying to get the credit cards removed from my CR. I've disputed the cards to try to have them removed from all three CRAs and they both came back as verified, so that didn’t work. My next step is going to be a good will letter to both creditors. I'm mainly planning on highlighting the circumstances (divorce, undisciplined spending, etc) that caused me to default. I then want to highlight with Amex that I have a new card with them and have been very responsible over the course of the last few months. For both cards, I want to highlight all of the progress I've made in my financial life, learning to budget and to be disciplined about financial management, my changed views on credit, etc. My hope is that they will remove the accounts from my CR and that will highlight my positive payment history on past loans, etc. My main question for the group is, do you see any issues with my approach (mainly with regards to the goodwill letter, but generally is also welcome)? Should I try to remove individual payments instead of trying to remove the entire cards? I did have a positive payment history with each card at some point, so I feel this could be a more useful approach, but it seems a lot more work for whoever reads the letter vs just deleting the account completely. Any other advice on what to include? Would it be crazy to include budgets, net worth statements, etc to prove that I’m on the up and up? Thanks in advance!
  23. Hi Everyone, I have been at war with the big 3 for a few months now. I have had success with equifax and Transunion removing old addresses. However Experian just will not budge. Ive tried letters and calling and have gotten no where. My question is: Is it possible to dispute baddies off Equifax and Transunion, and once they remove items, to send some sort of follow suit letters to experian to get them to comply if the other two did? This is all hypothetical of course. I have not started disputing yet. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  24. Wassup y’all, I went through a rough patch in my life when I was 18 and overcharged the freak out of a kohls charge card and it went into collections. I paid it off and now i’m thinking🤔, how can i get that removed off my report since i paid it off. I know i should’ve tried to write a letter to them saying if i pay it off they’ll knock it off my credit but i wasn’t thinking back then. Is it to late to contact them and ask to get it removed if possible? Im not tryna wait 7 years i’m trying to get a house next year y’all.
  25. I have searched & searched for an answer to my question and I can't seem to find one...maybe I am not wording my search query correctly. But... I have an old charge off on EX, that is reporting two consecutive 30-day lates (Dec 2014 & Jan 2015). I am currently attempting to dispute this as inaccurate but they keep coming back verified. I just don't understand how you can have two 30-day lates back to back. If the account was never current shouldn't the 2nd 30 day late really be a 60 day? Or is something going over my head? Just looking for some leverage to possibly get this removed early. It's scheduled to fall off in Sept. I have been disputing this since 2017 though. TIA.
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