Search the Community

Well. Monday, August 14th, 2023. Perhaps it time to start a running credit thread. Probably infrequent updates.. thought this would be a good place to start it: My FICO score (not a FAKO. This is a FICO score, as per a credit denial letter from Chase for Amazon.com Visa Signature) is 602 calculated as of 8/9/2023.

Hello Everyone, I will get straight to the point, due to some mistakes I made years ago my credit score is very low. My FICO SCORE 8 is 482 on Experian. I've started an online business that's making me money and as of recent I need a new Payment Processor. Without one I cannot do business online. The problem is my credit score is currently holding me back from acquiring one. My total debt is $67,380, I am thinking about buying a seasoned tradeline, with a 20K+ credit limit or higher with an age of 4+ years to offset my utilization and bring my credit score up. This will cost me about $570, my credit score needs to be a minimum of 500 to get a payment processing account, I'm only doing this because time is not on my side, and e-commerce is how I make my living, and take care of my family. Any opinions, advice, or experience you would like to share? Thank you!

Hi, In 2016, I had let three Amex Account go to CO. One of them I ended up paying. In 2020, I then got myself an Amex AU just to see if I was on some kind of restriction. The AU account stayed on until March of 2023 when Amex terminated the AU status. My question now is should I call CRA to remove the AU line. Does it really help my FICO at this point? It is no longer updating.

I am dealing with CCS for an account from Comcast. During the early 2021, I was stuck overseas due to fligh ops suspension. CCS was assigned this debt on June 7, 2021. CCS claimed they mailed me two letter but I could not find any at home when I came back on June 29th, 2021. As a backgrop of this, the final bill was disputed and that is why I could not pay before leaving in December of 2020. Xfinity restricted my access to the account overseas and I could not log in. I was planing on returning in Feb but due to the second covid surge, I could not fly until June 29. When I returned, I contacted Comcast about the dispute. It was never resolved. Two Questins, Can Comcast place a disputed final bill with a collection agency without resolving it? Fact that I was overseas, does simply mailing a collection letter to my residence fulfils CCS's legal obligation under the law?

So I recently posted a rough plan of my credit building journey into the near future, and one thing stood out to me after I looked closer. Self is not as good an option as it initially seems. For context, Self Financial is a credit rebuilding/building company that offers certificate of deposit loan options (Credit Builder Loans) for those with low or no credit. These 'loans' are a certificate of deposit that they open via a bank they are partnered with, and that has an interest rate, a certificate of deposit rate, and no initial payout. It is in a way a savings account that builds your overall credit age, on time payment history, and presumably account variety/credit mix (a factor that counts for 10% of the FICO score.) So, where I went wrong: I was initially going on the belief that the Credit Builder account offered by Self had minimal/low fees, but after a much closer look (and an updated 'fees' page on their website that possibly did not exist when I originally signed up) I've hit a hard right on that opinion. Self fees are actually quite hard-hitting, and their interest is not something to be taken lightly. --- When I first opened an account with them in December of 2022, they seemed to only offer 1 year 'loans.' This has since changed to 2 years, and in a lot of ways, this hinders your credit building journey more than it helps. My initial account was 150/month for 12 months, or 1,800 at term end. Each account requires a fee of $9 to open, this is a nonrefundable (as far as I see) administration fee. On paying off your first 'loan,' the next Credit Builder account opened will only require a $5 administration fee. the APRs may be slightly off, I am just calculating the results as a simple APR instead of a compounding APR also i m bad at ze maths so if u can plz explain where i go wrong I paid off the account in 6 months. In terms of credit score, I ended up netting myself 6 months of account age (that disappears when I pay off the loan) and 6 on time payments In the end, I rolled 1200 over to my Self Secured credit card (which has a heavy $25 annual fee with no cash back) and received a 463.80 payout, with 0.80 worth of interest accumulated in the certificate of deposit (this may be a bit off due to paying the loan off early, or by rolling the majority of my funds into the secured card.) Calculating the certificate of deposit rate on my (closed/paid off) previous account turns into a mess, as I had varying amounts in the actual credit builder account and most of it rolled into the Self Secured card, netting zero interest. But estimating on the 463 being in the account for one month to 2 months, the APR of the certificate of deposit appears to be around 1.03% (if the 463 was in there for 2 months) or 2.07% (if the 463 was in there for one month.) This translates to (600-463=137) $137 worth of fees incurred in 6 months of payment, not including the admin fee of $9. This totals a .0761_ of principal interest charge incurred, or an effective 7.61% APR. Paying the loan off in 6 months decreased what can be extrapolated as the original APR, which would be a .152_ or 15.2% APR. Removing the certificate of deposit interest lowers this net loss by a very negligible amount, at least if you are rolling your payments over into their secured credit card offer. But even so, if you are holding the cash solely in the account, and paying for the Credit Builder on schedule, your interest incurred (and thus fees that you cannot get back) is only a 1-2% dampener on the 15% APR. But this is an old, and quite possibly non-standard Credit Builder offer now. As the company expanded, they turned to 24 month loans to keep people paying longer (and to be fair, growing their credit history and on time payments.) --- The current stats on the fees page of the Self website are as follows: they are all at 2 year terms they all have a admin fee of $9 the various choices of monthly payments are $25, $35, $48, $150 the total payments over the term are $600, $840, $1152, $3600 the total payouts you receive at term end are $520, $724, $992, $3076 ~ this can and will change with both the amount of money you have paid in, and how many months a given sum of money remained in it (aka, was not transferred to fund their optional Self Secured credit card) the total charges (in terms of interest incurred over the course of the loan) are $89, $125, $169, $533 the total charges (notwithstanding the admin fee) are $80, $116, $160, $524 this translates to (ratio of fees w/o admin to total payments; ratio divided by months) a simple APR/monthly APR of 13.3%/1.1%, 13.8%/1.15%, 13.8%/1.15%, 14.55%/1.21% above could actually be half, i seem to have calculated the 2 year term limit as one year - so the APR would be 6.615%/0.55%, 6.65%/0.575%, 6.65%/0.575%, 7.27%/0.605% this part confuses me. the website adds an interest rate and APR for each loan, they are as follows; 14.14/15.92, 14.7/15.97, 14.79/15.72, 15.58/15.88 the difference between the two amounts to; 1.78, 1.27, 0.93, 0.3 this is not correlative to the calculated simple APR shown by the fee to payout ratio shown in the previous part, so idk how it relates to the charges In the end, this technically means you should be prepared to lose 13.3% to 14.55% of your total loan to fees. A benefit of the Credit Builder loan is the ability to self-fund a secured credit card. At 3 months of on-time payments to your Credit Builder loan and at least $100 of payment on your loan, you are offered the chance to roll over the principal of the loan towards funding the secured card. These rolled over funds will now be separate from the loan, not incurring and certificate of deposit growth, but will still count as a paid portion of your loan. So for example, you paid 450 on the 150/month loan. You will be shown as having paid 450, but will only have (450-100=350) 350 still earning the certificate of deposit interest on your loan. The fee to open the card is $25, or the first annual fee. The minimum card limit is $125, or $100 of principal and a $25 fee that (i think? based on experience) is automatically charged to the card on opening. To be eligible for the Secured card, Have an active Credit Builder Account for at least 3 months and have made at least 3 monthly payments on time Have reached at least $100 savings progress in your Credit Builder Account (after interest and fees) Have your Credit Builder Account in good standing A permanent US residency or citizenship with a Social Security Number Share your income and expenses Note: meeting these minimum requirements is not a guarantee that you will be offered the credit card. However, once offered, you have a zero chance of rejection, as you meet the criteria for the card. --- If all this hassle and fees are worth the extra credit history, payments recorded, and the chance to fund a secured credit card to $3,000 with zero chance of a rejection, go for it. Otherwise, it would be wise to stay away. Since this realization of the actual numbers, I would not at all recommend opening an account with Self without putting in a lot more thought and attention. ~sunni if you find something incorrect, please do correct me.

A "backdoor number" is one that gets you past frontline CSR's directly to Credit Analysts / Credit Departments / Account Managers / Account Specialists (different lenders call 'em different things) - these people/departments have decision-making abilities far beyond frontline CSR's; they can take and review requests for reconsideration of denied CC apps or CLI requests, APR reductions, etc. and implement their decisions. I can continuously update this first post with the latest information if everyone will post to this thread. I'll make the change and acknowledge. We deeply appreciate your participation. Amazon (store card): see Synchrony (GE) AMEX: (Oasis Program) AMEX: 866-314-0237 (new app status) AMEX: 800-582-6471 (recon with frozen EX for pin) AMEX Business charge cards - (877) 399-3083 AMEX Credit Bureau Unit: 800-874-2717 (Must have a current credit report before calling. They will ask for the account number from the credit report, which is different from your card number) Barclays: 888-232-0780 (Customer Care) Barclays: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst) BBVA Compass Bank: (American Express Card issues only) 866-246-2924 Best Buy: 877-420-0001 Best Buy: 888-908-9890 (Credit Analyst, existing accounts only) BofA: 866-866-2059 (Direct to US-based CSR) BofA: 888-500-6270 (Credit Dept. Fax) BofA Business: 800-442-1043 Cap1: 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist) Cap1: 800-951-6951 (cust. relations) Cap1: 800-548-4593 (application department; status) Cap1: 800-889-9939, 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist) Cap1: 877-513-9959 (Account Retention?) Cap1: 800-258-9319 (Debt Recovery) Cap1: 866-280-0118, 800-955-1455 (EO) (Nerfed in general) Cap1 Secured Platinum: 800-219-7931 (deposit taker, can speak to credit analyst) Chase: 800-432-3117 (App status) Chase Executive Office 800-242-7399 Chase Personal CC Recon 888-270-2127 Chase Business CC Recon 800-453-9719 Chase: 800-453-9719 (Business card lending) Chase Lending - 888-609-7805 (Credit Analysts) Chase: 800-242-7399 Chase: 800-955-9900 (Product change status questions) Chase: 888-298-5623 (Consolidation - M-F 8am-10pm EST) Chevron/Texaco Biz Card App Status: 888-243-8358 Citi: 800-645-7240, 800-288-4653 (Citi Business) Citi: 800-750-7453 (Business) Citi 888-201-4523 (Personal) Citi: 718-248-0847 (EO) Citi: 800-695-5171 (New Accounts UW) Citi: 605-331-1698 (EO - CC division) Citi Credit Bureau Dispute Fax: 866-713-5028 Comenity: 800-303-1368 (Consumer Relations - Recon) Discover: 888-676-3695 (New Accounts) Discover: 866-305-7691 (Direct Line TO CS) Discover: 866-222-0536 (EO) Elan: 800-364-9648 (CC underwriting, business and personal) Equifax: 800-846-5279 (Direct to Rep) Equifax Executive Office 404-885-8000 Experian: 800-493-1058, 800-208-9232 (9AM-5PM ET, need report number from EX) ExxonMobil Biz Card: 800-903-9966 FIA: See Elan FNBO: 800-444-6220 GEMB: 877-294-7541 (escalated help desk) Haverty's/Sync: 800-333-1082 Home Depot Store Card: 800-677-0232 (Credit Analyst) Home Depot Store Card: 423 467 6957 (App Status/Recon) Home Depot MC (Commercial): 800-720-0649 Home Depot: 800-685-6691 (Commercial) Hooters: 801-545-6705, 800-850-4668 HSBC: 866-574-4421 (App Status) HSBC: 866-719-3897 (Credit Analyst) JC Penney: 800-542-0800 Juniper: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst) Juniper/Barclays: 866-750-6031 (Corp. Offices) Key Bank: 888-201-4523 (App status) Key Bank: 800-254-2737 Key Bank MC: 800-288-4653 Key Bank Credit Research Fax: 216-357-6400 Lowes: see Synchrony (GE) Macy's: 800-627-2909 (Credit Dept. - new credit, inquiries on upgrade to Visa, credit reporting issues) Macy's: 800-543-9617 (Recovery Services) Marvel: see Synchrony (GE) Meijers MC: 801-517-5560 National City: 800-762-0974 (Credit Dept.) Nationwide Visa: 866-757-2720 (App. status) Nordstrom: 800-964-1800 (CLI) Orchard: 800-395-6090 (May get answered in Spanish by bilingual CSR's. If this happens and you don't speak Spanish, either try again later or try saying "Habla ingles?" or "Ingles, por favor" to let them know you're an English-speaker) Philips 66: 866-289-5630, 800-610-1961 PNC Bank: 800-762-2117 (Business CC) PNC Bank: 877-562-0150 (Business UW) Sam's Club: 800-301-5546 (Underwriting) Sears: 800-599-9710 (App status) Shell Fleet Card: 800-223-3296 (App status) Shell: 800-223-3296, 866-438-7435 Shell: 800-377-5150 Staples: 800-767-1291, 800-282-5316 Sunoco Corp. Card: 800-935-3387, 800-278-6626 Sunoco: 800-310-4773 Synchrony (GE): 800-240-0512, 800-480-0205 (Biz) Synchrony (GE): 800-588-4290 (Consumer) Synchrony (GE): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW) Synchrony (GE): 888-885-6937 (Verification) Synchrony (GE): 800-333-1082 (Haverty's) Synchrony (GE): 866-519-6441 (Marvel CC, Sr UW) Target Biz Card: 800-440-5317 Tiffany: 800-770-0800 Transunion: (312) 466-7719 (Corporate Office Resolution Team Voicemail) Transunion: (610) 546-4600 (Corporate Office, need extension or last name to search directory) USAA Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 ext 38763 (secured product specialist) US Bank: 800-685-7680 (Underwriting) US Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 (underwriters for secured product) Valero: 877-882-5376 Walmart (Sync): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW) Walmart (Sync): 877-969-5302 (Verification) Wells Fargo: 866-677-1128 (CC Executive Office) Wells Fargo: 844-576-6424 (Executive Office) Wells Fargo: 877-514-3717 (Amex Propel Credit Svcs) Wells Fargo: 844-879-4824 (Direct # for Product Change Credit Svcs) Wright Express: 888-743-3893

Hello there I am new to this board, I have been going around the forum but I am kind of lost, there is just too many information, it would be great if you could direct me to forums that can help me. And bear with me this is all very new to me. I have 2 collections from rental properties that have been on my account for 2 years and they are greatly affecting my credit (Speaking 18k). Anyhow a couple of months ago I contacted the debt collectors (Big mistake I realize that now 🤧) I wanted to pay the debts off because I cant get a credit card or rent an apartment. But they wouldnt negotiate with me on a good number so I didnt proceed with paying. Anyhow, after that I disputed the collections with the 3 credit bureaus, TransUnion and Experian removed the collection but not Equifax they were able to verify. On one of the collections I have a comment "account previously in dispute – now resolved by data furnisher" I dont quite get that part. Anyways, heres the catch I didnt have a social security number back when these collections where created (I was international) I just got mine a year ago, so I think that should be used against them? How can I remove these collections -- please help! And since I contacted them recently does that mean I wont be able to dispute the collections? Thank you!

I'm just starting my new business. Just officially became registered LLC with state of FL in May 2023. I tried to open a Business Checking acct. with a local Credit Union - Suncoast Credit Union, but was denied because of low credit score on my personal side. They pulled from Experian and my score was a 534. I believe this was a Soft-Pull because I haven't seen any inquiries come up on my credit reports, as of yet. Is there no way to open bank accounts for business without personal credit? I'm currently in the process of disputes on my credit report, but it takes time. Any advice would be great.

I had a Capital One credit card that was charged-off in 2019. The debt hasn't been sold. They haven't contacted me about it. I've called several times to see if i can pay it but they said i can't. It's stopping me from getting new credit and i'm not sure what to do about it. Has anyone here ever experienced something like? Advice needed. Thanks

Hello, wondering if you can help or offer any suggestions. Long story made shorter, I took a loan from my 401K to pay college tuition for my daughter. The retirement company changed hands with my employer. as a result, the terms of the loan changed....my payments increased and was no longer to be taken out of my paycheck. I received a letter from the IRS saying the funds are now considered a withdrawal. I have not called the IRS about this yet. Like the Original poster, I was going to call to solicit help from someone more knowledgeable to see if there are any options here. thanks in advance.

Someone please help me I am trying to get an eviction off of my credit report. It is the only thing I have aside from two medical under $200. My eviction collection is 1500. I have Navy Federal and I am now working really can use a credit card, but wanting to wait a few months my score is 524.?

Is it possible to remove late payments?

Pulling EX report, I see many old addresses, some linked to 5 year old (Charge Offs) COs. Strategy is to: 1. establish a new mailing address in my Experian credit profile. (already done) 2. freeze all reporting in: Lexis Nexis: https://www.lexisnexis.com/privacy/fo... Innovis: https://www.innovis.com/securityFreez... SageStream: https://www.sagestreamllc.com/securit... ARS: https://www.ars-consumeroffice.com/se... Then, I go back to EX and dispute - attempt delete all old addresses by having issued a freeze on all the aforementioned credit bureaus. -- CB cannot cross reference COs 3. Dispute accuracy of COs, 4. Dispute the 1 collection. Wait 60 days, rinse and repeat steps #3 and #4

Hi all, I signed up for a gym membership at Blink Fitness, I never actually used the facilities except once. my card got hacked and the auto pay stopped subsequently, after a while a received a call from a collection agency called "Aldous and Associates" collecting the debt from the contract I breached from Blink. I obviously requested a verification letter, and got back the original contract I have with Blink. Here is the letter I am am about to send out. feel free to comment if something is wrong there. I hope its gonna work, and that some will find it informative. Dear Sir/Madam @ Aldous and Associates, PLLC I am writing in response to the the contract was sent to me by your firm regarding an alleged breach of contract that I had with Blink Fitness. I carefully went over the contract again and I fail to see the legitimacy of the debt, this debt is an error on the part of Blink Fitness, I will go into greater detail once I am fully informed about the complete chain of title of Aldous and Associates form the original creditor. Please note that in New York State, where I am located, the debt collector is required to provide “a statement describing the complete chain of title from the original creditor to the present debt owner, including the date of each assignment”, the above information wasn't provided to me, which consequently means that the debt is still in dispute. In order for me to be able to communicate my concerns with the contract, I will need to be redirected directly with the creditor, or someone who owns the debt. There is no indication in my agreement with Blink Fitness that someone else whom I have no evidence to own the debt should be in communication with me regarding the alleged breach of contract. In addition please note that despite the fact that the letter was received by your firm on 10/30/2016 requesting that all communication must be done in writing and sent to me by mail, I received a voicemail on the phone number on file that there is a debt that has to be paid to your firm. Please note that this is a violation of the FCRA.

How, you ask? Simple - you just can't win. Look at the two items I have here from Credit Karma (yeah, I know - FAKO not FICO, but the principle remains the same). Same date....... Same amount of change in total Credit Card debt Same direction in the amount of debt - down. Same Credit Card Company involved in the change. Same change in number of Credit Core points What's different? One (EFX) went UP six points, and one (TU) went DOWN six points. It's not the number of points that I am questioning, it is the fact that the exact same documented change cause one score to h=go up, nd another to go down, and both by the exact same number of points. You have better odds in a Casino, and a crooked one at that. .

Why Pay for someone to help you build your credit with this tool its very easy and will help you build credit back up in no time!

Iv been battling this car loan late payment with Ally financial for a year now. Iv called and sent dispute/forgiveness letters to Ally trying to get the 30 days late payment removed but they wont budge. I've always paid a lil more then what's due. Because of Covid I looked up the Fair credit act to see if there's protections for us from having negative marks on our credit during the pandemic but still no luck for me. Does anyone have any suggestion for me this is my only late payment.

I'm 3 for 3 on firm no's. I don't know what else to do. All CEOs, or their staff, replied saying they are required to report accurate information. As far as I'm aware that is true, but technically, they can choose whether or not to report the account at all? Is it worth responding and telling them that, or am I just wasting my time? The worst ones are paid charge offs from 2017, so I suppose they won't be affecting my credit in the near future. But the most recent is synchrony/paypal credit from 2020. Worst status 120 days late, not charged off, but last 30 day late was in January 2021. Then I paid it off completely. It's tanking my credit score and I really want to get a better interest rate on my car. Side note: being bipolar sucks. I was diagnosed in 2020, it consists of impulsive spending followed by months long depression. I've got a handle on it now that I know what I'm dealing with... But do I really need to wait 7 years to stop dealing with the consequences of my manic episodes? Thank you.

I tried a 100 day trial for a mattress and didn't relies I was basically taking out a small loan. Before the trial ended I refunded the mattress and they gave me back my money and now I have a closed installment account on my report. All my payments where on time I just want to remove the closed account from my Experian credit report. My original dispute was rejected does anyone have any suggestions?

Hello guys. I’m a 22 year old who got their first credit card last year. I ended up getting 3 and was VERY dumb with them. I owe $500 to Discover, $460 to Macy’s & $1,200 to Nordstrom. I currently have closed accounts from all 3, but only Macy’s and Nordstrom have flagged my account as a charge off. Is there is ANY way to get them to delete the “closed account” and “charge off” history off my credit report. I just got my tax returns and have enough to pay them all in full. All I want is to have a CLEAN credit report as if I had just started from scratch. I just got off the phone with Nordstrom CC services and she told me they don’t do pay for delete, as they have to accurately update the credit bureau, but that if I fully pay, in 10 days, the balance on my account will update to zero, meanwhile if I do a settlement, it’ll update 30 days after the last payment has been received. I asked if I could negotiate through mail, and she said all they could do is send me a “current status letter”. I didn’t know this stuff stays on your report for 7 years. I really hate myself for this.

In 2019, with impeccable credit, I requested a TJMAXX card with Synchrony Bank (SYNCB/TJX) and got approved for $2,000. Amidst crisis and turmoil where I live, paying about $200 I owed from a purchase slipped through the cracks. I have 5 negative marks for late payment. I immediately paid the balance in full. In fact, I always do. The account was closed by the credit grantor. This small sum owed, essentially ruined my credit and I’m in the process of recovering it now. Even though I’m sending dispute letters to the 3 credit bureaus, I’m wondering if it’s a good idea to send a request for Goodwill elimination of my marks directly to Synchrony Bank. My credit history since then shows that I pay all my balances in full in a timely way. I even have bank statements of significant purchases made at the TJMAXX stores since. The crisis and unrest experienced during the period of time where I live when the late payments were made is a testament to the hardships at that time….which led to notices received about late payments slipping through the cracks. I’m confident I can make a good case in a Goodwill letter and offer to open a new card once credit is restored, but I don’t even know if its worth a shot and if that kind of consideration is commonly granted. Logic tells me that pleading to the actual bank for consideration would be more efficient than continuing to knock on the bureaus’ doors with disputes. Any insights or help?

In reviewing my Equifax report, I noticed 4 accounts that have comments saying "Payment is payroll deductible." 3 of the accounts are closed and charged off credit cards. The 4th is open and being paid as agreed with never any lates. It is clearly not an error in reporting by the creditors because it shows like this on each account (with different dates): 04/2016 Payment is payroll deductible 08/2016 Payment is payroll deductible 02/2017 Payment is payroll deductible I am 100% Positive I have no judgements against me that would enable a credit card debt to be payroll deductible. Is this an effort on behalf of the creditors to further damage my credit by making it appear that an there has been a judgement against me for a particular debt when that has never actually occurred? I've done extensive searching online and haven't found any answer as to why this comment appears.

Due to a serious lapse in judgment I acted on the "spend $45 on a new Sam's Club membership/get $45 back" Amex offer, and we joined when I was among the mud people last week. The store was awful. The selection is much smaller than Costco's, and the merchandise itself (aside from national/known brands) is largely lower-end/riffraff stuff. One entire aisle of refrigerated/frozen items was empty. Merchandise displays were messy. We bought two bags of frozen berries and left. Then the email for using the Amex offer never arrived. I looked at my receipt, and the membership was processed as a renewal, not a new membership, even though we haven't been members for over a year (we joined for free once before, shopped once, and never returned), so the purchase didn't qualify for the Amex offer. A couple of days later I logged into my Sam's Club account online, and sent a brief, polite request for a membership refund, and cited their published terms and conditions which state: "The Sam’s Club Membership has a 100% satisfaction guarantee. If at any time a member is not satisfied with their membership, Sam’s Club will refund the entire membership fee." The response: Nowhere in their satisfaction guarantee does it state that you have to go to a store to get the membership fee back. I let them know that I am in a different city for the next several weeks and I do not have a Sam's Club location that is convenient (there is exactly one in the entire San Diego metro area, and it's in a neighborhood where I wouldn't leave my car unattended). The next closest store is in Murietta, which is practically in Oregon. I indicated that if they didn't want to refund my money based on this second written request I would resolve this by disputing the charge with Amex. Three days later, no reply. I just got off the phone with Amex, and now I am done with this Chocolate Goodness retailer forever.

I sent out a validation letter to a medical collection on the 1st. today the 17th i got an alert that a new account was added. The account was never removed to my knowledge but it is the same Collection but now the balance says zero. Why would they do this? I haven't received any response from them. Should I wait the 30 days to see if they remove, or move forward with another letter? Thanks for any response

I am trying to help a friend out that does not have access to the internet. He said the templates are nothing more than pre-done forms to remove or amend credit errors. I have been looking for hours. I was wondering if anything can either attach or tell me where to find them. Thank you!!