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Found 595 results

  1. When you take a consolidated loan...do they pay off the debt BEFORE the card or loan is closed or AFTER it is closed? If you cant get a personal loan is this your next best option...? How does before or after affect the credit if its closed, but paid? Is that a good way to go if you have less than a certain amount? How does one loan payment, if you have a car loan and student loan... affect the credit then? Can you obtain credit again during the loan payoff or only after...? How are you treated by the credit card companies...? Really curious about this process.
  2. I currently have 2 active cards: CapitalOne Platinum ($1K due for CLI next month), and Ollo ($1.5K), both of which I acquired this year (got the Ollo in July). Before either of those I was searching for cards that I could get approved for to rebuild and Discover was one of the sites I searched. Each time I looked at their preselector, it returned one of their secured cards (which I didn't really want to do). At the time, my Experian FICO was in the low 600's. Well my score has improved bit by bit, and today I got a notice from Experian that it rose to 660 from 618 in July! Still not where I want to be, but a whole lot better than where I was! Anyway, I wasn't really looking for another card so soon, but decided to go to Discover just for the heck of it to see what it said. Lo and behold, I was preapproved for the Discover it Cash Back and the Discover it Chrome Card. Now, I'm wondering if I should go ahead and apply, or just hold tight for now. What do you guys think? EXTRA INFO... Both cards are paid in full right now, but the one of them hasn't reported yet, so EX is showing a 12% utilization. I recently paid off a Chase settlement which is showing on EX now. Not sure about TU and EQ. EX FICO: 660 TU FAKO: 688 EQ FAKO: 706
  3. 🤨WHAT SHOULD I DO NEXT TO BUILD MY PROFILE 🤔 5YRS/OLD BUSINESS ONLY 1 TRADELINE REPORTING TO D&B : SPRINT BUSINESS CELL PHONE PAYDEX 80 VIRTUAL ADDRESS THROUGH IPOSTAL 1800# THROUGH GRASSHOPPER NET 30 VENDORS QUILL ULINE SUMMAS _ CREDIT LINE $1000 BP UNIVERSAL GAS MASTER CARD _ CREDIT LINE $500 SPRINT BUSINESS PHONE GRAINGER SUPPLY WORKS DENIED FEDEX OFFICE Thank you for joining FedEx Office. During your enrollment; you requested a credit account for print. Using the information, you provided – we were unable to extend credit on behalf of your company. However, we did create a discount account for you. You can use this account number to receive a discount on printing at any one of our 1800+ FedEx Office locations and online.
  4. Hello, I have create a situation for my self that my monthly expenses exceed my monthly income so I been missing payments to my credit cards. I was thinking of cashing out one of my mutual funds and pay off two of my cards to reduce my monthly overhead, Best buy has offered me a settlement offer where I would pay them half of my total statement within 90 days and they would charge off the rest, but they would still show on my credit that this was paid but not all of it. And I still have to reach out to chase to see what options I have with them. My question is, is this a good idea right now I am way behind on the payments and killing my credit but not sure what is my best options. Any suggestions or recommendation? Also I own my home so I didn't want to so a bankruptcy.
  5. Hello again, I fell off the credit repair wagon for a while, hard to believe it has been 5 years since I have been here. I am once again looking to get my reports clean and rebuild my credit in the hopes of buying a home next year. Currently I have an open vehicle loan with a sporadic history of late payments, but has now been current for the last 4 months. Student loans that I am going to contact for rehab. 4 Charged off CC in collections, 2 are just beyond SOL and the other two will be beyond SOL later this year. One is with my bank and still shows in my online banking acct. The car loan was my only open TL so I just applied for and was approved for a cap1 and a milestone card each with a $300 limit. I am debating between a secured card with a higher limit from my local CU or paying on the toy cards for a few months and trying for another unsecured. Priority 1 is keeping the car and the new cards current to start building a positive payment history As far as the CO's I have a feeling the Wells Fargo one will stick like glue and I am wondering if that alone will be an issue for a mortgage. I will probably be going the FHA route due to lower credit scores. Any thoughts on how to best approach this with the hopes of an upcoming mortgage loan? Currently TU 575 fako EQ 553 fako EX 526 fico
  6. Hey all! My washing machine just went out, so I need to get a new one. I have the money, but since I’m trying to rebuild my credit, I was wondering if I should try for one of those 12/24 month interest free deals at one of my local appliance stores to add another positive line. What do you think?
  7. Hi everyone. I’m trying to repair credit for myself and my husband so we can get a good mortgage hopefully by next summer. We have some dings from job layoffs and not having emergency funds, but I have spent a year and a half getting our budget set up so we have a good buffer and should job loss happen we would still be able to pay our bills for a while. So, credit repair is the next step. I am hoping for some advice. I’ve been trying to do things on my own and I feel like I still am kind of clueless. I sent some verification letters but a mortgage lender told me having those disputed notes on my file is no good. Good? Stuff from my credit report: Capital One Quicksilver $1500CL, paid on time and utilization under 9%, opened 3/2017 Capital One Quicksilver One $500CL, paid on time and utilization under 9%, opened 11/2017 Comenity store card $610CL, paid on time and currently $98 balance, not sure if I should pay that down more - I hate to keep buying stuff and I want it to report, opened 10/2017 Self Lender that was paid off in 2/2019 so now it reports as closed Capital One auto loan, balance around $14,500, paid on time, opened 12/2018 All of my student loans report paid on time. The bad stuff from my credit report: Credit One chargeoff, reporting $0 balance, DOFD 1/1/2015 - I paid the CA for this one, both OC and CA are still showing right now (just paid it off for a settlement amount this month) Old Navy paid for less than full balance and closed in July 2013, reports past due through end of 2013. It says “account paid for less than full balance”. Not sure DOFD. Kohls chargeoff, DOFD 4/2013 Barclays chargeoff, reporting $0 balance, DOFD 2/2015, paid the CA for this one as well - both OC and CA report, similar to the Credit One account above. This also says “consumer disputes after resolution”. First Investors auto reposession 8/2015. Reports $0 balance. PRA $999 old Cap One card, DOFD 3/2015 Midland for Barclay, paid for less than full amount, CR has not updated yet Midland for Credit One, paid for less than full amount, CR Has not updated yet Penn Credit electric bill collection, placed 4/2016, planning to pay this week Professional Debt Mediation collection, planning to pay in the next few months, placed 2/2015 My husband has 2 open, paid on time Cap One cards (newer than mine), the auto loan, and then 3 collections that I am planning to address this year. Should I write letters to the original creditors to ask them to remove things? Should I just continue to pay off the CAs? I know PRA will now delete once it’s paid. Are there other letters I should write or steps I should take? I guess I just get confused as far as whether it’s beneficial to actually send all the validation stuff, or whether it’s actually harming my report. Thanks for any advice.
  8. I was about 6 months late I finally paid it in full the account is open but on restriction what can I do to re-open?
  9. A "backdoor number" is one that gets you past frontline CSR's directly to Credit Analysts / Credit Departments / Account Managers / Account Specialists (different lenders call 'em different things) - these people/departments have decision-making abilities far beyond frontline CSR's; they can take and review requests for reconsideration of denied CC apps or CLI requests, APR reductions, etc. and implement their decisions. I can continuously update this first post with the latest information if everyone will post to this thread. I'll make the change and acknowledge. We truly appreciate your participation. Amazon (store card): see Synchrony (GE) AMEX: (Oasis Program) AMEX: 866-314-0237 (new app status) AMEX: 800-582-6471 (recon with frozen EX for pin) AMEX Business charge cards - (877) 399-3083 AMEX Credit Bureau Unit: 800-874-2717 (Must have a current credit report before calling. They will ask for the account number from the credit report, which is different from your card number) Barclays: 888-232-0780 (Customer Care) Barclays: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst) BBVA Compass Bank: (American Express Card issues only) 866-246-2924 Best Buy: 877-420-0001 Best Buy: 888-908-9890 (Credit Analyst, existing accounts only) BofA: 888-260-4696 (secured accts.) BofA: 800-824-5895 (secured & partially secured accts.) BofA: 800-881-4730, 866-226-8225, 800-247-7975 (Credit Analyst, existing accounts only) BofA: 866-618-4585 (Sr Credit Analyst) BofA: 704-386-5687 (Office of the CEO) BofA: 888-500-6270 (Credit Dept. Fax) BofA Business: 877-665-5023 (Analyst/UW) BofA Business: 877-665-5023 (New applications) BofA Business: 800-442-1043 Cap1: 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist) Cap1: 800-951-6951 (cust. relations) Cap1: 800-548-4593 (application department; status) Cap1: 800-889-9939, 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist) Cap1: 877-513-9959 (Account Retention?) Cap1: 800-258-9319 (Debt Recovery) Cap1: 866-280-0118, 800-955-1455 (EO) (Nerfed in general) Cap1 Secured Platinum: 800-219-7931 (deposit taker, can speak to credit analyst) Chase: 800-432-3117 (App status) Chase: 888-270-2127, 800-527-7419 (App recon) Chase: 800-453-9719 (Business card lending) Chase: 888-622-7547 (Chase Executive Ofc. in IL) Chase: 800-955-9900 (Product change status questions) Chase: 888-298-5623 (Consolidation - M-F 8am-10pm EST) Chevron/Texaco Biz Card App Status: 888-243-8358 Citi: 800-645-7240, 800-288-4653 (Citi BankCard) Citi: 800-750-7453, 888-201-4523 (Business) Citi: 718-248-0847 (EO) Citi: 800-695-5171 (New Accounts UW) Citi: 605-331-1698 (EO - CC division) Citi Credit Bureau Dispute Fax: 866-713-5028 Comenity: 800-303-1368 (Consumer Relations - Recon) Discover: 888-676-3695 (New Accounts) Discover: 866-305-7691 (Direct Line TO CS) Discover: 866-222-0536 (EO) Elan: 800-364-9648 (CC underwriting, business and personal) Equifax: 800-846-5279 (Direct to Rep) Equifax Executive Office 404-885-8000 Experian: 800-493-1058, 800-208-9232 (9AM-5PM ET, need report number from EX) ExxonMobil Biz Card: 800-903-9966 FIA: See Elan FNBO: 800-444-6220 GEMB: 877-294-7541 (escalated help desk) Haverty's/Sync: 800-333-1082 Home Depot Store Card: 800-677-0232 (Credit Analyst) Home Depot Store Card: 423 467 6957 (App Status/Recon) Home Depot MC (Commercial): 800-720-0649 Home Depot: 800-685-6691 (Commercial) Hooters: 801-545-6705, 800-850-4668 HSBC: 866-574-4421 (App Status) HSBC: 866-719-3897 (Credit Analyst) JC Penney: 800-542-0800 Juniper: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst) Juniper/Barclays: 866-750-6031 (Corp. Offices) Key Bank: 888-201-4523 (App status) Key Bank: 800-254-2737 Key Bank MC: 800-288-4653 Key Bank Credit Research Fax: 216-357-6400 Lowes: see Synchrony (GE) Macy's: 800-627-2909 (Credit Dept. - new credit, inquiries on upgrade to Visa, credit reporting issues) Macy's: 800-543-9617 (Recovery Services) Marvel: see Synchrony (GE) Meijers MC: 801-517-5560 National City: 800-762-0974 (Credit Dept.) Nationwide Visa: 866-757-2720 (App. status) Nordstrom: 800-964-1800 (CLI) Orchard: 800-395-6090 (May get answered in Spanish by bilingual CSR's. If this happens and you don't speak Spanish, either try again later or try saying "Habla ingles?" or "Ingles, por favor" to let them know you're an English-speaker) Philips 66: 866-289-5630, 800-610-1961 PNC Bank: 800-762-2117 (Business CC) PNC Bank: 877-562-0150 (Business UW) Sam's Club: 800-301-5546 (Underwriting) Sears: 800-599-9710 (App status) Shell Fleet Card: 800-223-3296 (App status) Shell: 800-223-3296, 866-438-7435 Shell: 800-377-5150 Staples: 800-767-1291, 800-282-5316 Sunoco Corp. Card: 800-935-3387, 800-278-6626 Sunoco: 800-310-4773 Synchrony (GE): 800-240-0512, 800-480-0205 (Biz) Synchrony (GE): 800-588-4290 (Consumer) Synchrony (GE): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW) Synchrony (GE): 888-885-6937 (Verification) Synchrony (GE): 800-333-1082 (Haverty's) Synchrony (GE): 866-519-6441 (Marvel CC, Sr UW) Target Biz Card: 800-440-5317 Tiffany: 800-770-0800 Transunion: (312) 466-7719 (Corporate Office Resolution Team Voicemail) Transunion: (610) 546-4600 (Corporate Office, need extension or last name to search directory) USAA Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 ext 38763 (secured product specialist) US Bank: 800-685-7680 (Underwriting) US Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 (underwriters for secured product) Valero: 877-882-5376 Walmart (Sync): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW) Walmart (Sync): 877-969-5302 (Verification) Wells Fargo: 866-677-1128 (CC Executive Office) Wells Fargo: 844-576-6424 (Executive Office) Wells Fargo: 877-514-3717 (Amex Propel Credit Svcs) Wells Fargo: 844-879-4824 (Direct # for Product Change Credit Svcs) Wright Express: 888-743-3893
  10. We’re trying to rebuild my husband’s credit. He’s had two Capital One credit cards which he’s been paying in full and on time each month, but we realized they’re not being reported to the credit bureaus. He’s called Capital One and keeps getting the run around and being told they they’ll report, but they never do. I have good credit and a different Capital One card that is reported to the bureaus each month. Since he has poor credit, are they simply not reporting because they’re discriminating? I know they’re not legally required to report, but does he have any options or leverage here? Is it better to cut his losses and apply for a new card? Has anyone had a good experience with specific credit cards to help rebuild credit? Or should I add him as an authorized user?
  11. Trying this again since i have more info- I have a lease from 4 yrs ago that’s been reporting as a collection. It was an eviction due to them getting sick of me paying two weeks into the month with late fees attached . I called the property today because i think the amount they are listing is incorrect. Apparently there is a new management company and i got this response..can i use this to my advantage? I do know NCC has the debt and is still reporting the original company I rented with as the owner. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.. ——————————————- We have recently purchased the community and changed management teams as of 01/04/2019 therefore, your account and file information was part of XYZ Company. I would have to refer you to them to find out what collection agency they placed your file with and how to get this resolved with them as the debt, if any, is owed to them. Please reach out to XYZ Company here in town and inquire about your home, 11-406, here at Axxxx and they should be able to provide you with Katherine’s information to reach her or another person in their management team that could assist you in finding the collection agency used to resolve this matter. Please see the ledger attached, this is all I have record of. Thank you, Laura J Property Manager
  12. Is a lease considered an open account or written contract? Logic is telling me written but I’ve here due to how leases are paid, it could be open. I’m in Virginia so it’s 3 vs 5 yrs difference. thanks!
  13. Hi, Here I am trying to get back up. I had gone through some unfortunate circumstances while I was assigned overseas back in 2016. By the time I came back into the US, all my accounts were closed by CG but not CO. While trying to manage damage control, I was able to get few accounts saved from CO but most were CO by CG. Long story short, I managed to pay off Amex PRG and NFCU CLOC back then. Whatever was left eventually became CO past 120 Days marker. I have contemplated the idea of BK Ch7 and still meet mean tested standard. I did not go that route because I wanted to go back to school for Master and did not want to put hurdles in my way for any SL. I have finally gathered the courage to clean my files and start off with rebuilding while attempting to pay some of the prime lenders off by asking PFD. The reason I wanted to go this route is to later explain to any potential lenders that, despite default, I kept my obligations nad paid them off. I hope it testify to my ethics. (Please correct me if I am dreaming).While I rebuild, I ask all of your help to better plan my strategy. A bit about my currents goals and profile. I have three SL that have been in deferment with nothing late. I also have a vehicle lease that has 5x30 markers that is now current. I am starting off with two Secured CC. Since eventual graduation into an unsecured line is my ultimate goal, I am considering Discover It and NFCU Secured CC. I do realize that I have CO from NFCU. I called them to find out if I am still eligible for a secured CC while having a CO NFCU CC. The Rep told me I am, however, I was not quite satisfied from his explanation. Please guide me if I should attempt this. I had AMEX accounts in which PRG was paid in full, while two are CO. I am not sure if I am Black Listed by AMEX. AMEX have been sending me Optima offers to accept which I never accepted. Because I thought having CO (including two of AMEX) on CRAs, I won’t get it. Since I have family members who could add me as an AU, I, now, want to try this and see if I could be added as an AU. It will serve two objectives; a) It will show if I am blacklisted by AMEX. If I am, it will then help me draw a strategy as to how to resolve it by engaging EO. b) If I am able to get the card, it will help me rebuild my credit while giving me an opportunity to build a profile with AMEX without getting banned. Here is what I have on CRAs at the moment. Amex PRG 120 Days Cancelled by CG PAID IN FULL Amex BSP CO Canceled by CG $2494 Amex ED CO Cancelled by CG $2244 BOA CO Closed by CG $2800 Barclays CO Closed by CG $1180 Capital One CO Closed by CG $2110 (Deleted by the DF) Chase CO Closed by CG $5634 NFCU FVR CO Closed by CG $8000 NFCU CLOC 1X 90 DAYS MARKER PAID IN FULL Penfed CO Closed by CG $6111 Synchy CO Closed by CG $5600 Thank you for reading, all feedback, suggestions, guidance, and criticism is welcome😊
  14. Sorry if it's been posted but I searched in the search bar and didn't come up with anything. I recently got a secured cc to start repairing my credit. My question is, if I make my first payment early will that affect me positively or negatively? Thank you in advance.
  15. I have been informed by all 3 credit bureaus that due to a lack of activity, they cannot generate a score for me. For years, I believed that I had toilet-bow bad credit because I've always been turned down for credit. I have had a lot of medical collections on my reports over the past 9 years or so and about 2 student loans (at 2 seperate times and one of which I paid off completely in about the year 2012 or so). Currently, I have less than $3,000 in debt, about 7 medical collections, 1 or 2 student loans, and about 17 hard inquiries total between all 3 bureaus. All collections on my credit report is at least 5 years old. About 3 of those hard inquries are within the last 2 months, the other ones are at least 6 months old (Had I known Carmax would pull my credit multiple times, I wouldnt've have used them to try and purchase a vehicle; this is where a lot of those hard pulls came from!). I currently have a decent income and have very few monthly expenses (no rent/mortgage, daycare, car note, etc.- just my phone bill, groceries (for 1), and very minimal budget for clothes, entertainment and misc. My question is, is there a non-secured credit card that I am likely to be approved for/is geared for people like me with old collections, a moderate number of inquiries, no credit score, but a decent income? I just recieved an OpenSky Secured card ($200 deposit and $200 limit) and I am waiting on my Capital One Secured card ($250 deposit and $350 limit) to come in the mail. Thanks in advance, everyone!
  16. I had a rental property that was part of a business dealing that went bad. The property was on the brink of foreclosure when we were finally able to settle and sell. Bank (and taxes, HOA, etc) all were paid in full. This was not a short sale, or settlement of debt. Realistically, when would I start to see my credit score increase? This house was the only negative on my credit report (unfortunately a large one) and was nearly 2-years behind when everything was resolved. Score dropped about 150 points when the payments were falling behind. Other debt is minimal. Just primary residence ($200k and 5 years of on-time payments) and a school loan ($6k remaining). Credit cards are used for daily transactions, but are always paid in full. No other late payments, collections, or anything of the sort for 15 years plus. Bank is showing the mortgage account as closed, but it doesn't appear that it was marked as "Paid in Full." Related question, I see that typically late payments fall off of the credit report 7 years after "first notice." Does that mean at the 7 year mark, that all vanishes, or is it a rolling 7-year (as the last late payment filing was 2 years after the first, so it would be 2 years from now?). Thank you.
  17. I am preparing to refinance my student loans, and want to ensure my credit is in the best shape possible before applying. My credit utilization is between 10-15%; however, I have late payments on my account that I feel may be unjust, and I'm seeking advice from individuals who have gotten negative items removed to see if you think I am eligible to do the same. In July of 2017, one of my small student loan services changed carriers to Heartland ECSI. The payment was roughly $35 per month, but when the loan changed hands my automatic payments stopped as well. This resulted in my payment being 3 months late (the first 3 months the new loan went into effect). I did not actively change the loan to another company, this was done between the two companies. To put this in perspective, I pay roughly $2000 per month in student loans and my annual income is between $120,000-$130,000; so it's frustrating that such a small payment is making such a negative impact. I'd like to hear if anyone has similar experiences and if you think I have a chance to get this removed. I greatly appreciate any input!
  18. Hi Guys! I need help with a collection account that recently reported to my Experian report on 2/5/19, “Enhanced Recovery” purchased an old Sprint debt from May 2013. In California our SOL is 4 years. What can I possibly to get this account removed from my report ASAP! Account Name ENHANCED RECOVERY CO L,202752XXX Original Creditor SPRINT Open Date Invalid date Balance $1,302 Debt $1,302 Contact Information 8014 BAYBERRY RD,JACKSONVILLE, FL 32256,(800) 496-8941
  19. I'm looking for input on what cards to app for. My bk7 is off of my EQ and EX, and should be off TU any day now. I'm trying to accomplish several things with this app spree. 1. Maximize my rewards on my spending. 2. Establish/reestablish positive relationships with lenders that may be of benefit me in the future. 3. Broaden my base of cards so that, once these are aged, getting a new card here or there will have little to no impact on my AAoA. I am planning to nearly double my current number of credit cards(10). This will hurt my scores significantly in the short term, but should make my credit more solid over time. Cards I currently have: Fidelity Rewards Chase Freedom Discover IT USAA Rewards Amex Wells Fargo Cash Back NFCU Platinum Barclay Rewards Penfed Platinum Rewards State Department Platinum Rewards Quicksilver My list of cards that I am considering, with purposes in parentheses: Citi Double Cash (reestablish a relationship with Citi while giving me another 2% option) US Bank Cash+ (5% categories) Amex BCE (3% at supermarkets) BOA Cash Rewards (3% category) Amazon Prime Rewards Visa (5% at Amazon) Capital One Savor One (3% on dining and entertainment) (I am already getting 3% on dining with my USAA Rewards Amex, so this one may not be worth my interest) State Department Cashback Rewards Plus (another 2% card with no redemption hoops, plus cell phone protection, extended warranty, CDW, trip cancellation) USAA Cashback Rewards Plus Amex (5% cashback on gas) Chase Freedom Unlimited (Considering this one only for the $150 bonus and to get another Chase card before I go over the 5/24. I really don't see any use for it otherwise. The Freedom Card which I already have is their only card that seems particularly useful to me) ETA: Looking at the Chase Ink Business Cash (5% categories +$500 bonus) I'm just wondering what potential issues there are with using a business card for personal expenses? I would appreciate any suggestions of other cards that may be useful, or input on the usefulness of cards I am already considering.
  20. Hi, there was a wells fargo account credit card account that was charged off years ago in 2011 but the accounts last payment is showing 2013. here are some more details: Account Status Closed Payment Status Charge-off Status Updated Oct 1, 2013 Usage 125% Balance $1,498 Balance Updated Jan 2, 2019 Last Year I received an IRS letter stating that I didn't report the charged off amount as income for my 2016 taxes. Wells Fargo cancelled the debt and sent it to the IRS on the last day of the year in 2016. As soon as i received the letter i paid the debt in full. Here's where I'm stuck on how to proceed. My credit report still shows the full charged off amount even though I paid it to the IRS when requested and i cant get it removed no matter how many times a dispute it. According to experian the account will be removed from my credit report at the end of this year in 12/2019. I need some more information because I don't want to do anything have the clock be reset on when the account will be removed. ( I'm afraid of a situation where if any new information is inputted resulting to a reset of the 7 year rule) Should I give up and wait for the account to be removed? Or should I press further and keep trying to have it corrected. And if I were to do so, what is the best way of going about it? Thank you so much for the help.
  21. Hi all, it's been a while. I'm still rebuilding my credit and it's been over a year. It's going much slower than I'd like. The question here though, is what to do after a legal name change. I have been updating my name with the current creditors. That hasn't shown any results on my credit reports yet. I obviously cannot get any new credit until my name is updated on the credit reports. I have searched and read that you don't really need to request that the CRAs update the name because it will happen when the creditors report. What do you all say about that? If I need to update it with the CRAs, do I just send a letter with a copy of the name change court order, copies of new DL and SS card? On another note, when I was trying to update my name on smartbusinessreports, while trying to verify my identity, their system pulled up a bunch of info totally unrelated to me, presumably related to someone else whose name matches my new legal name. The questions they asked were not related to anything on my Big3 reports. Is it possible my data got merged with someone else's on one of the others like LexisNexus, Innovis, etc??
  22. I'm in the market to finance a new car and have had a car loan before which I started in 2008 for 12k + interest from Carmax and I finished paying it completely a few years later but it's been deleted from all of the credit bureaus. I think it was deleted after disputing an error. I wanted it corrected but instead, they deleted it and now my credit shows no history of a car loan which could benefit me in getting the new car finance. Is there any way to get this loan to show back on my credit?
  23. Hello! The day after Christmas, I checked my EQ report and found that a particularly scummy CA that's known for this practice dropped a collection on my previously clean report. It's an alleged payday loan from 7/2012. The CA has never contacted me in any way. I see from my research that reporting a collection on a report is considered to be first contact. Since then, it's been added to TU too. As I craft my dispute, I wanted to confirm a few things and how to word and prioritize the items on my dispute letter. 1. The date it was assigned was 12/19/18. 2. The date it was reported was 12/24/18 (obviously, this doesn't allow for the 30-day dispute process, but if reporting on a report is first contact, that may be moot...?) 3. Since that first contact, including allowances for the holidays, I have not received the required dunning letter within 5 days of first contact. 4. In reading the April 22, 2017, post from ICanHasMuny? on this thread (link at the end of the post), this type of account shouldn't even be reported: "EX TU an EQ won't accept the following information from furnishers effective june 2016 - so if you have this type of information still on your reports, DISPUTE IT OFF ... check cashing companies payday loan companies" I'm pretty hacked off about this... the DOFD is 7/2012. I don't have an exact date yet. I appreciate any guidance on disputing this, especially regarding the wording and citations. I haven't had to deal with any negatives in a few years, and this was a shock. Thanks very much!
  24. Utilization Consolidation Optimization only using EX HELP! Scores EQ538 TU587 EX638 Amex blue 10K / 4K bal Amex Every 10K / 7500 bal BOA Alaska Air 4500/ 3900 bal DISC 6300/ 4200 bal BECU 2K/ 1500 bal Cap 1 800/ 0 bal CITI 1K/0 bal Credit one 950/ 0 bal First Premier 1K / 0 bal First Premier 400/ 0 bal Student loan 9500/ 9270 bal I was at 690-710 on my scores then loaded my cards, killing my scores from over utilization. Along the way I was dealing with a federal agency penalty which before it got through with the appeal/contesting/adjudication the person I was dealing with retired, and the division of the agency closed now sending all penalties directly to Treasury. Soooo Treasury’s Bureau Of Fiscal Service is the taxpayers collection agency and they are tough. Sent me a notice of intent to garnish me (they can only take 15% after tax) and hit EQ and TU with a 40K collection! One of the listings said the account start date was 01/01/0001 that’s 1000 years before the crusades. So my credit repair person immediately verify challenges them. They have now come back twice updated with more info and amounts claimed, My insurance will cover part of it and I have a attorney doing the adjudication challenge with Treasury but the process is slow, maybe a year. So even though the debt is not being avoided by me, and hasn’t been confirmed, they are jamming me up on the bureaus. Im trying a third time verification with EQ TU maybe the govt shutdown will help them miss the 60 day window. But I’m dead on those bureaus. I tried my CU but they pulled TU and that’s how I found out about the Treasury listing. HELP: I know my EX score is low from loading up my cards, won’t a consolidation loan get my score back up? EX has 5 inquires 3/18 11/17 11/17 11/17 10/17 I’ve gotten the typical mailing from BestEgg and was about to click the button but waited, wanting more info. Here on Pulls it looks like they only pull EX? I need to figure out how, if it’s possible for me to do this. In the mean time I need to get a car, a person I’ve been working with says the finance person has banks that only pull EX. I have a good job, 70K at it 8 months, went to school last year to get the job. years of credit history, only 3 lates from over two years ago. Qs: 1. Where how to get consolidation loan to put out card fires. 2. Apply for consolidation or car loan first? 3. If I can get more then I need on consolidation should I take it and use extra to pay down balance then it will show less then 100% on my report and now count as bad? 4. Is there any hope I can pull this off? 5. The BestEgg prequalified offer is good only till Jan 9 so time is ASAP crucial, I haven't clicked through on it yet so they haven't run me, and they are emailing me to continue. Thank you for any and all help!!!!!
  25. I'll keep this brief and to the point, but PLEASE FEEL FREE to ask for more details! I just purchased a home at the end of October, so I'd been holding off on any unnecessary activity until that was done. I currently have no credit cards, store or otherwise. What are some good card options with good approval odds? Currently sitting at 617 (TU) and 623(EQ). These are CK numbers. Thanks!!

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