Search the Community

I haven't been around for a while. but, actually I have, just under a different SN. dice727 is actually me. (in case you missed it, the thread is here: https://creditboards.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=567281) yes, for the many doubters, sadly everything posted in that thread is real. I posted under an alias with mom's permission because I had some pending legal issues and this account could possibly be tracked back to me. so now 18 months later, all that's been resolved, I received my Chapter 7 discharge in June and am working on rebuilding my credit. since I IIB'd pretty much every major creditor around and most of the good CUs, rebuilding is going to be an interesting process. current snapshot: FICO08s are EX 584, EQ 606, TU 573. I have no personal revolving accounts open right now. I didn't reaffirm the mortgage, so that's not open either. I do have open student loans. I am an AU on one open Ann Taylor account of my wife from 2003 with no balance and $3650 CL. I do still have some older paid/closed accounts on my report which helps my AAOA along with the student loans. going to use this thread to keep track of progress and notes. feel free to interject any advice if you think there's something I should/shouldn't do! I rebuilt many years ago from a bunch of CO accounts, but pretty much just waited until 7 years passed and everything fell off before starting to rebuild. so this is new territory for me.

So I disputed (or so I thought I disputed) addresses off the Big 4. TU removed all addresses except for my current. EQ has my current and another non-BK address. EX won't budge. All bureaus froze. Microbilt, LexisNexis, SageStream, Chex, you name it. Try to get full verification of the bankruptcy on my file, thinking the whole Trial Rule 1005 thing would help me (this rule makes only the last 4 of your social, full name and addy public-facing). No dice. This was the response L/N fed me, including a few notes in RED. Please critique, tell me I have no chance for removal, something....

Well. Monday, August 14th, 2023. Perhaps it time to start a running credit thread. Probably infrequent updates.. thought this would be a good place to start it: My FICO score (not a FAKO. This is a FICO score, as per a credit denial letter from Chase for Amazon.com Visa Signature) is 602 calculated as of 8/9/2023.

It’s been a rough few years, but after many challenges, I finally managed to get approved for several credit cards. During the pandemic and the last few years, however, I accumulated over $30,000 in credit card debt. Several months ago, I got a decent-paying job and developed a plan to pay off my debt, which I’ve been following closely. I haven’t had a late payment in years. I’m 41 and really want to avoid bankruptcy. Since I’ll likely need to move to a more affordable city and get a car, I can’t afford to deal with the long-term consequences of bankruptcy. I have some savings that I’m currently using to pay rent until I can find another job. I could sell all my stocks and dip into my 401(k) to try to pay everything off, but that would wipe out my safety net. Plus, I’d have to pay taxes on the early withdrawal, though the total might be less than what I’m paying in monthly fees. I’m also unsure if I could get approved for a personal loan, and I worry about getting trapped with a new obligation that I might struggle to pay off. Will any companies settle my account for less than the full balance if the account is still current? How much will this hurt my credit score? On one hand, my score is already lower because of the high balance, but I’m also on joint accounts that aren’t used and have high limits. If I enroll in a non-profit debt management program, will that automatically close my accounts? If not, will it still lower my score? I plan to call each company directly. I have more credit cards than I need, so if even one is willing to settle, that would be a big help. Any advice? I’m feeling a bit worried.

does iPostal1 work to build business credit can i use this to build my business credit?

there's a eviction balance on my credit report, I'm trying to get it removed with a "pay for delete" letter to the original creditror. Does anyone here have any templete letters that can be helpful? Thank you.

A suggestion was recently made.. So, I enrolled myself in a "six month" "back to work" program somewhere . It has been making me very anxious that, at least for the first 3 months.. Things are done around the place, and they don't let you actually go out and work and get a job until those last 2 or 3, I think 2 . Seems a little bit counterintuitive but I think I understand... they want to instill "routine." This is a voluntary place and I can "walk out" at any time, but if I did that then why did I come in the first place. Working on me a little bit. (A lot..) So, someone made a suggestion. While I technically had enough to cover maybe "two months" of minimum payments, I do technically have like 8-10 cards across 5+ creditors including recently got CLI with some.. How does that go? To call and ask for hardship arrangements? Do they do such thing? Because otherwise I'm gonna have late payments. I basically don't see how I won't have them anyways, with no money coming in....

Hello Everyone, I will get straight to the point, due to some mistakes I made years ago my credit score is very low. My FICO SCORE 8 is 482 on Experian. I've started an online business that's making me money and as of recent I need a new Payment Processor. Without one I cannot do business online. The problem is my credit score is currently holding me back from acquiring one. My total debt is $67,380, I am thinking about buying a seasoned tradeline, with a 20K+ credit limit or higher with an age of 4+ years to offset my utilization and bring my credit score up. This will cost me about $570, my credit score needs to be a minimum of 500 to get a payment processing account, I'm only doing this because time is not on my side, and e-commerce is how I make my living, and take care of my family. Any opinions, advice, or experience you would like to share? Thank you!

Hi all, so I’m new here and haven’t really been sure where to turn for advice and questions on this topic so sorry if I’m posting this in the wrong spot. I work as a mechanic right now and I bought a toolbox and some tools for about 4k through the leasing option that was offered. I didn’t ask much questions since I didn’t know what I know now about credit and lease/loan options, and the seller didn’t explain them to me just told me to sign. But I’m stuck paying 230$ a month for another 3 years (been paying for about a year before I started getting info on the lease) the early buyout amount is the same as if I kept paying monthly (about 9k). There is no interest according the the company but they have a fixed price and term length. Basically what I want to know is can I get out of this? If I were to do like a voluntary repossession since it’s an equipment lease that I don’t see on my credit report while the repo hurt my credit? If I do have them repossess it and they sell it to cover the amount I still owe, will it come off the original 4k that I financed or my 9k buyout? Should I get a lawyer to look over the contract and see if there is a way out? Clicklease is an absolute scam of a company. They have refused to cooperate with me. For the first 5 months of my lease (when they offer an early buyout at the purchase cost) they never answered any of my calls or emails. And even as of late they give me no options to help me and minimal information unless I ask for very specific things. Clicklease has already had several lawsuits filed against them and 100s of bad reviews. But they still have a 4/5 rating with the BBB because of 100s of fake reviews.

After many years of fruitless dithering, I've finally taken action on a realistic repair/rebuild plan. I regret not taking advantage of CB a decade ago. I had, and still have I'm sure, a brain full of popular for-the-masses (i.e. sheeple) "credit education" that's just flat w-r-o-n-g. And that's on me. I am so, so grateful to everyone here and the wealth of solid information and get-real advice. Like a kid wishing for a puppy, I'm breathless with anticipation every day, because who knows what I'll find when I pop in to CB. And this week, what did I find behind Door #1? Bob Wang. For others who missed Bob's heyday, I hope it's okay to share some notes. I'm sure I'm barely scratching the surface of Bob's contribution. Here's what I gleaned. Please chime in anywhere I didn't quite grasp it. Apologies in advance if I'm off base posting like this--still learning my way around. FWIW because CB shares content like this, I'm on the road to credit recovery! What about Bob (Wang)? Bob is a no-longer posting CBer who was a number-crunching genius extraordinaire.... and he did it for fun. FUN, I say!!!! Whaaaaaa? I don't know the backstory, but Bob took it on himself to dig into how FICO scores for varying credit profiles are affected over time by the same event - changes in late payments, AAOA, % utilization, new cc, etc. He ran innumerable "what ifs" through FICO score calculators, created graphs of the results, and freely shared the original spreadsheet with his raw data. He posted his results in the Master Graphs thread (https://creditboards.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=527614&hl=+bob%20+wang&page=1). Now things that members "knew" or "felt" or "just made sense" were validated, or proved wrong, by concrete data. Members could crunch their own personal scenarios and forecast with reasonable accuracy how their credit decisions would affect them today and for years down the road. Bob was sure to say YMMV - this isn't forecasting exact scores, just providing a reasonably reliable estimation. The data had some interesting implications, like suggesting 5 cc is the optimum number for maxing FICO scores. Not that you can't have an excellent score with 2 cards or 20 cards, just that the maximum score bump seems to happen at 5 cc. Another takeaway from moneypts (https://creditboards.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=595753&hl=%2Bbob+%2Bwang+%2Bspreadsheet&do=findComment&comment=5650631): "Take home message -- you can have an excellent FICO score with little credit card debt and little total available credit. Or an excellent FICO score with a lot of credit card debt and with a lot of total available credit. But not with a lot of debt and little total available credit." So, whatever your situation, there's a graph for that. Wish you knew how being 30 days late, 60 days late, or 90/120+ days late affects your score based on the number of cc you have (1, 2-4, or 5+ cc)? What's it look like when the late first happens? If nothing else changes, what's the picture like after 3 years? 5, 7, 10 years? Or how about: What's the effect of a late payment on a perfect profile (5 cc, pristine reports) vs the effect on someone with the same number of cards, but a not-so-perfect profile -- say, there's a 30, 60, or 90 days late payment? What if you add a PR? What if your cards are ALSO maxed out? And how does that score shift year-to-year if nothing else changes? You got it - there's a graph for that. Oooooh, geeky happy dance! Have fun! Bob's Master Graphs Thread https://creditboards.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=527614&hl=+bob%20+wang&page=1 Bob's Flickr Page not all the graphs can still be seen in the Master Graphs thread or in his spreadsheet. The images might still be on Flickr. https://www.flickr.com/photos/80421735@N00/ The credit score calculators Bob used FICO: http://www.whatsmyscore.org/estimator/ FAKO: http://www.creditcards.com/credit-score-estimator/ BTW here's the MyFico estimator. It seems to be nearly word-for-word identical to the "What's My Score" calculator; Bob didn't use it. https://www.myfico.com/fico-credit-score-estimator/estimator/ Bob's Excel spreadsheet (FICO Score Effect v7.xlsx) Per Bob, "When you change the data, the charts should update. If your personal data fall outside the fixed ranges, right-click on the axes and choose "Format Chart" and modify the axis range." I didn't see charts on every tab but I'm hoping I can re-generate them easily based on the images. I think the "chop" and "bump" tabs are no longer relevant. http://creditboards.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=1077 "But I don't have Excel", you say...."Microsoft is evil." Agreed, but not to worry. Save the spreadsheet to your computer anyway. Next, download the FREE Apache OpenOffice software (https://www.openoffice.org/download/index.html), and open Bob's spreadsheet from there. Wallah! BTW, when the download page asks you to specify OS and version, it means which version of OpenOffice, not which version of Windows. The most current OpenOffice version is already prepopulated for you. Just choose your operating system and boogie on. Related threads "Where can I get ahold of the FICO model?" https://creditboards.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=595753&hl=%2Bbob+%2Bwang+%2Bspreadsheet&do=findComment&comment=5650631 "Credit score calculators - to be taken seriously?" https://creditboards.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=590162&hl=%2Bcredit+%2Bcalculators&do=findComment&comment=5621334 "Bob Wang's content" https://creditboards...ivity&mid=39394 "The Master Spreadsheet Spread Sheet" https://creditboards...c=499459&page=6 "The Master Higher Limits Begets Higher Limits" thread https://creditboards...opic=509099&hl=

So I recently posted a rough plan of my credit building journey into the near future, and one thing stood out to me after I looked closer. Self is not as good an option as it initially seems. For context, Self Financial is a credit rebuilding/building company that offers certificate of deposit loan options (Credit Builder Loans) for those with low or no credit. These 'loans' are a certificate of deposit that they open via a bank they are partnered with, and that has an interest rate, a certificate of deposit rate, and no initial payout. It is in a way a savings account that builds your overall credit age, on time payment history, and presumably account variety/credit mix (a factor that counts for 10% of the FICO score.) So, where I went wrong: I was initially going on the belief that the Credit Builder account offered by Self had minimal/low fees, but after a much closer look (and an updated 'fees' page on their website that possibly did not exist when I originally signed up) I've hit a hard right on that opinion. Self fees are actually quite hard-hitting, and their interest is not something to be taken lightly. --- When I first opened an account with them in December of 2022, they seemed to only offer 1 year 'loans.' This has since changed to 2 years, and in a lot of ways, this hinders your credit building journey more than it helps. My initial account was 150/month for 12 months, or 1,800 at term end. Each account requires a fee of $9 to open, this is a nonrefundable (as far as I see) administration fee. On paying off your first 'loan,' the next Credit Builder account opened will only require a $5 administration fee. the APRs may be slightly off, I am just calculating the results as a simple APR instead of a compounding APR also i m bad at ze maths so if u can plz explain where i go wrong I paid off the account in 6 months. In terms of credit score, I ended up netting myself 6 months of account age (that disappears when I pay off the loan) and 6 on time payments In the end, I rolled 1200 over to my Self Secured credit card (which has a heavy $25 annual fee with no cash back) and received a 463.80 payout, with 0.80 worth of interest accumulated in the certificate of deposit (this may be a bit off due to paying the loan off early, or by rolling the majority of my funds into the secured card.) Calculating the certificate of deposit rate on my (closed/paid off) previous account turns into a mess, as I had varying amounts in the actual credit builder account and most of it rolled into the Self Secured card, netting zero interest. But estimating on the 463 being in the account for one month to 2 months, the APR of the certificate of deposit appears to be around 1.03% (if the 463 was in there for 2 months) or 2.07% (if the 463 was in there for one month.) This translates to (600-463=137) $137 worth of fees incurred in 6 months of payment, not including the admin fee of $9. This totals a .0761_ of principal interest charge incurred, or an effective 7.61% APR. Paying the loan off in 6 months decreased what can be extrapolated as the original APR, which would be a .152_ or 15.2% APR. Removing the certificate of deposit interest lowers this net loss by a very negligible amount, at least if you are rolling your payments over into their secured credit card offer. But even so, if you are holding the cash solely in the account, and paying for the Credit Builder on schedule, your interest incurred (and thus fees that you cannot get back) is only a 1-2% dampener on the 15% APR. But this is an old, and quite possibly non-standard Credit Builder offer now. As the company expanded, they turned to 24 month loans to keep people paying longer (and to be fair, growing their credit history and on time payments.) --- The current stats on the fees page of the Self website are as follows: they are all at 2 year terms they all have a admin fee of $9 the various choices of monthly payments are $25, $35, $48, $150 the total payments over the term are $600, $840, $1152, $3600 the total payouts you receive at term end are $520, $724, $992, $3076 ~ this can and will change with both the amount of money you have paid in, and how many months a given sum of money remained in it (aka, was not transferred to fund their optional Self Secured credit card) the total charges (in terms of interest incurred over the course of the loan) are $89, $125, $169, $533 the total charges (notwithstanding the admin fee) are $80, $116, $160, $524 this translates to (ratio of fees w/o admin to total payments; ratio divided by months) a simple APR/monthly APR of 13.3%/1.1%, 13.8%/1.15%, 13.8%/1.15%, 14.55%/1.21% above could actually be half, i seem to have calculated the 2 year term limit as one year - so the APR would be 6.615%/0.55%, 6.65%/0.575%, 6.65%/0.575%, 7.27%/0.605% this part confuses me. the website adds an interest rate and APR for each loan, they are as follows; 14.14/15.92, 14.7/15.97, 14.79/15.72, 15.58/15.88 the difference between the two amounts to; 1.78, 1.27, 0.93, 0.3 this is not correlative to the calculated simple APR shown by the fee to payout ratio shown in the previous part, so idk how it relates to the charges In the end, this technically means you should be prepared to lose 13.3% to 14.55% of your total loan to fees. A benefit of the Credit Builder loan is the ability to self-fund a secured credit card. At 3 months of on-time payments to your Credit Builder loan and at least $100 of payment on your loan, you are offered the chance to roll over the principal of the loan towards funding the secured card. These rolled over funds will now be separate from the loan, not incurring and certificate of deposit growth, but will still count as a paid portion of your loan. So for example, you paid 450 on the 150/month loan. You will be shown as having paid 450, but will only have (450-100=350) 350 still earning the certificate of deposit interest on your loan. The fee to open the card is $25, or the first annual fee. The minimum card limit is $125, or $100 of principal and a $25 fee that (i think? based on experience) is automatically charged to the card on opening. To be eligible for the Secured card, Have an active Credit Builder Account for at least 3 months and have made at least 3 monthly payments on time Have reached at least $100 savings progress in your Credit Builder Account (after interest and fees) Have your Credit Builder Account in good standing A permanent US residency or citizenship with a Social Security Number Share your income and expenses Note: meeting these minimum requirements is not a guarantee that you will be offered the credit card. However, once offered, you have a zero chance of rejection, as you meet the criteria for the card. --- If all this hassle and fees are worth the extra credit history, payments recorded, and the chance to fund a secured credit card to $3,000 with zero chance of a rejection, go for it. Otherwise, it would be wise to stay away. Since this realization of the actual numbers, I would not at all recommend opening an account with Self without putting in a lot more thought and attention. ~sunni if you find something incorrect, please do correct me.

Hi, After a long failed sprint, I am back at it again. In 2016, I eneded up with several CO that mostly have fallen off now. In 2021, I secured a TD Bank secured Card $1500 CL and 2 US Bank secured cards with a 5K CL, to help me rebuild. Both cards have not graduated yet. I would like to increse my scores and reach into 700 territory. Should I add another revolver or try to free my money first from US Bank. I would really appreciate any strategic insight or recommendation. Lates and CA Credit Collection Service paid in full from 2022, but still on reports. I had an Auto lease that had sporadic lates 30X8, 60X1 and 120X1 all from 2019. I have paid that in full and closed it. A verizon wireless paid in full CA from 2021. Positive Lines Utilization is 1% TD Bank $1500 Opened in 2021 US Bank $5000 Opened in 2021 US Bank $5000 Opened in March 2022. Student loans in the amount of 27k with nothing deragatory. TU FICO8 660 Credit Collection Service paid in full from 2022, but still on reports. I had an Auto lease that had sporadic lates 30X8, 60X1 and 120X1 all from 2019. I have paid that in full and closed it. A verizon wireless paid in full CA from 2021. EX FICO8 610 NFCU Visa $8000 CO fall off date 10/23 Penfed Visa $0 CO fall of date 10/23 Credit Collection Service paid in full from 2022, but still on reports. I had an Auto lease that had sporadic lates 30X8, 60X1 and 120X1 all from 2019. I have paid that in full and closed it. A verizon wireless paid in full CA from 2021. EQ FICO8 590 NFCU Visa $8000 CO fall off date 10/23 Penfed Visa $0 CO fall of date 10/23 Credit Collection Service paid in full from 2022, but still on reports. I had an Auto lease that had sporadic lates 30X8, 60X1 and 120X1 all from 2019. I have paid that in full and closed it. A verizon wireless paid in full CA from 2021.

I opened a 1500 "savings" line of credit via SELF Financial, and paid it off within 5 months. In 3 months I opened a secured card through them and rolled over 1200 from the line of credit to the card. This secured card has a $25 yearly fee, but with the high limit this adds to my overall credit, I feel it is justified to pay it. Once I paid off the line of credit, SELF returned the remainder of the "balance" to me, so about 300. The limit for the secured card is 3000, so I opened another "savings" line of credit for 3000, where I can roll over a further 1800 into the card. This leaves me with 1200 on the line of credit that will be returned to me once I pay it off. I have 2 years to pay this off, but will take about 3 months based on my summer job earnings. I paid 200 to a CapitalOne Quicksilver Secured to build a relationship with the bank (I already have a checking account through them.) This card can be graduated in 7 months or so. I attempted to sign up for a CapitalOne Platinum Secured while I was applying for the Quicksilver, but I was denied due to applying for 2 cards at the same time. It only took one hard inquiry for both, but I will not make this mistake again. I am planning to reapply for the Platinum Secured (50-200 balance) in 30 days. My current credit score (FICO-8) is 670. (I only have like 5 months of credit age, 100% payment history, 0% utilization) I have a few goals for each period of time - Goal number one: grow credit. #so, status in July 2023# 3000 Self Secured Card, 25 yearly fee. - 4 months age 200 CapitalOne Quicksilver Secured - 1 month age 200 CapitalOne Platinum Secured - 0 months age 1500 Self Loan - paid off 3000 Self Loan - 1800 paid, 1200 remaining. I am also planning to apply for the Discover It Secured (200-2500 limit) by September or so. This will build my relationship with them for the other Discover cards they offer. I want to add 2500 to it to increase my overall limit and give a good baseline for the graduation (where 200 would probably graduate into a low 800-1200.) Although I am unsure of if they'll allow me to add this much. My weekly pay is 20 hourly after taxes, or 480 weekly, or 1920/month. I have no expenses. However, I've only had this job for the summer, and made a lot less until May 2023 (when I was still in high school.) I am now graduated and taking more hours, 24hrs/week. #so, status in September 2023# 3000 Self Secured Card, 25 yearly fee. - 6 months age 200 CapitalOne Quicksilver Secured - 3 months age 200 CapitalOne Platinum Secured - 2 months age 2500 Discover It Secured - 0 months age 1500 Self Loan - paid off 3000 Self Loan - paid off I will be in community college (for an Associates in Cyber Security) in September, so will start looking at Student cards to apply for. I will start taking 90 day breaks before applying for any unsecured cards. *my Dad is paying 25k for my community college, and I will be living at home/commuting to school, so student loans will not be an issue. no car loan bc i own a 2009 car already.* Goal number 2: Starting to get unsecured student cards #so, status in December 2023# 3000 Self Secured Card, 25 yearly fee. - 9 months age 200 CapitalOne Quicksilver Secured - 6 months age 200 CapitalOne Platinum Secured - 5 months age 2500 Discover It Secured - 3 months age 1500 Self Loan - paid off 3000 Self Loan - paid off The student cards I plan to slowly get into: Discover It Student Chrome; 0% APR for 6 months, 2% gas/dining up to 1000 quarterly, 1% cashback everything else, has a cashback match for one year, apparently no FICO requirement? This will be the first card I apply for due to the low risk of rejection - December 2023 CapitalOne Quicksilver Student Cash; 1.5% cashback on all categories, 50 cashback if 100 spent in first 3 months - March 2024 Discover It Student Cash Back; 5% monthly revolving cashback, has a cashback match for 1 year - June 2024 CapitalOne SavorOne Student Cash; 3% cashback dining/entertainment/subscriptions/grocery, 1% everything else, 50 cashback if 100 spent in the first 3 months - September 2024 Chase Freedom Student; This opens a relationship with Chase, 50 cashback upon using in first 3 months, 1% cashback all categories, after 5 years offers 20 cashback bonuses on account anniversary - December 2024 At this point (December 2024) I should be 75% done with my Associates degree. My secured CapitalOne cards and Discover should have gone through their graduation, so this is the point (after about 50/2 years in fees) where I end my Self Secured card (it does not have a graduation option.) This gives me 3k back to stick into a savings account or retirement fund. Goal number 3: Longer account age, starting to get a few 'forever' cards. I will start taking 6 month breaks before applying for cards. The forever cards I plan to slowly apply for: Chase Freedom Flex; Connects to the Chase ecosystem, further improves relationship with Chase for better travel cards in the future. 200 cashback if 500 spent in first 3 months, 0% APR for 15 months, 5% cashback in revolving categories, 5% Chase travel, 3% dining, 1% everything else - June 2025 American Express Blue Cash Everyday; Connects to the American Express ecosystem, builds relationship with AmEx for better rewards cards in the future. 0% APR for 15 months, 3% cashback groceries, retail., gas, 1% everything else - December 2025 Citi Custom Cash; Connects to the Citi ecosystem, builds relationship with Citi for better rates in the future. 200 cashback if 1500 spent in first 6 months, 0% APR for 15 months, 5% cashback in revolving categories (based on spending) up to 500 monthly - June 2026 Goal number 4: Effective perfection, or, what I'm building my credit for anyways Wherein I get travel cards and more 'impossible' seeming rewards cards. The American Express Golds and CapitalOne Venture X's of the credit card world. This is just what this entire journey is for. Also a low interest mortgage but this is a credit card board soo..

A "backdoor number" is one that gets you past frontline CSR's directly to Credit Analysts / Credit Departments / Account Managers / Account Specialists (different lenders call 'em different things) - these people/departments have decision-making abilities far beyond frontline CSR's; they can take and review requests for reconsideration of denied CC apps or CLI requests, APR reductions, etc. and implement their decisions. I can continuously update this first post with the latest information if everyone will post to this thread. I'll make the change and acknowledge. We deeply appreciate your participation. Amazon (store card): see Synchrony (GE) AMEX: (Oasis Program) AMEX: 866-314-0237 (new app status) AMEX: 800-582-6471 (recon with frozen EX for pin) AMEX Business charge cards - (877) 399-3083 AMEX Credit Bureau Unit: 800-874-2717 (Must have a current credit report before calling. They will ask for the account number from the credit report, which is different from your card number) Barclays: 888-232-0780 (Customer Care) Barclays: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst) BBVA Compass Bank: (American Express Card issues only) 866-246-2924 Best Buy: 877-420-0001 Best Buy: 888-908-9890 (Credit Analyst, existing accounts only) BofA: 866-866-2059 (Direct to US-based CSR) BofA: 888-500-6270 (Credit Dept. Fax) BofA Business: 800-442-1043 Cap1: 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist) Cap1: 800-951-6951 (cust. relations) Cap1: 800-548-4593 (application department; status) Cap1: 800-889-9939, 800-625-7866 (Account Specialist) Cap1: 877-513-9959 (Account Retention?) Cap1: 800-258-9319 (Debt Recovery) Cap1: 866-280-0118, 800-955-1455 (EO) (Nerfed in general) Cap1 Secured Platinum: 800-219-7931 (deposit taker, can speak to credit analyst) Chase: 800-432-3117 (App status) Chase Executive Office 800-242-7399 Chase Personal CC Recon 888-270-2127 Chase Business CC Recon 800-453-9719 Chase: 800-453-9719 (Business card lending) Chase Lending - 888-609-7805 (Credit Analysts) Chase: 800-242-7399 Chase: 800-955-9900 (Product change status questions) Chase: 888-298-5623 (Consolidation - M-F 8am-10pm EST) Chevron/Texaco Biz Card App Status: 888-243-8358 Citi: 800-645-7240, 800-288-4653 (Citi Business) Citi: 800-750-7453 (Business) Citi 888-201-4523 (Personal) Citi: 718-248-0847 (EO) Citi: 800-695-5171 (New Accounts UW) Citi: 605-331-1698 (EO - CC division) Citi Credit Bureau Dispute Fax: 866-713-5028 Comenity: 800-303-1368 (Consumer Relations - Recon) Discover: 888-676-3695 (New Accounts) Discover: 866-305-7691 (Direct Line TO CS) Discover: 866-222-0536 (EO) Elan: 800-364-9648 (CC underwriting, business and personal) Equifax: 800-846-5279 (Direct to Rep) Equifax Executive Office 404-885-8000 Experian: 800-493-1058, 800-208-9232 (9AM-5PM ET, need report number from EX) ExxonMobil Biz Card: 800-903-9966 FIA: See Elan FNBO: 800-444-6220 GEMB: 877-294-7541 (escalated help desk) Haverty's/Sync: 800-333-1082 Home Depot Store Card: 800-677-0232 (Credit Analyst) Home Depot Store Card: 423 467 6957 (App Status/Recon) Home Depot MC (Commercial): 800-720-0649 Home Depot: 800-685-6691 (Commercial) Hooters: 801-545-6705, 800-850-4668 HSBC: 866-574-4421 (App Status) HSBC: 866-719-3897 (Credit Analyst) JC Penney: 800-542-0800 Juniper: 866-408-4064 (Credit Analyst) Juniper/Barclays: 866-750-6031 (Corp. Offices) Key Bank: 888-201-4523 (App status) Key Bank: 800-254-2737 Key Bank MC: 800-288-4653 Key Bank Credit Research Fax: 216-357-6400 Lowes: see Synchrony (GE) Macy's: 800-627-2909 (Credit Dept. - new credit, inquiries on upgrade to Visa, credit reporting issues) Macy's: 800-543-9617 (Recovery Services) Marvel: see Synchrony (GE) Meijers MC: 801-517-5560 National City: 800-762-0974 (Credit Dept.) Nationwide Visa: 866-757-2720 (App. status) Nordstrom: 800-964-1800 (CLI) Orchard: 800-395-6090 (May get answered in Spanish by bilingual CSR's. If this happens and you don't speak Spanish, either try again later or try saying "Habla ingles?" or "Ingles, por favor" to let them know you're an English-speaker) Philips 66: 866-289-5630, 800-610-1961 PNC Bank: 800-762-2117 (Business CC) PNC Bank: 877-562-0150 (Business UW) Sam's Club: 800-301-5546 (Underwriting) Sears: 800-599-9710 (App status) Shell Fleet Card: 800-223-3296 (App status) Shell: 800-223-3296, 866-438-7435 Shell: 800-377-5150 Staples: 800-767-1291, 800-282-5316 Sunoco Corp. Card: 800-935-3387, 800-278-6626 Sunoco: 800-310-4773 Synchrony (GE): 800-240-0512, 800-480-0205 (Biz) Synchrony (GE): 800-588-4290 (Consumer) Synchrony (GE): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW) Synchrony (GE): 888-885-6937 (Verification) Synchrony (GE): 800-333-1082 (Haverty's) Synchrony (GE): 866-519-6441 (Marvel CC, Sr UW) Target Biz Card: 800-440-5317 Tiffany: 800-770-0800 Transunion: (312) 466-7719 (Corporate Office Resolution Team Voicemail) Transunion: (610) 546-4600 (Corporate Office, need extension or last name to search directory) USAA Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 ext 38763 (secured product specialist) US Bank: 800-685-7680 (Underwriting) US Bank Secured Platinum: 800-344-5696 (underwriters for secured product) Valero: 877-882-5376 Walmart (Sync): 877-379-8175 (Sr UW) Walmart (Sync): 877-969-5302 (Verification) Wells Fargo: 866-677-1128 (CC Executive Office) Wells Fargo: 844-576-6424 (Executive Office) Wells Fargo: 877-514-3717 (Amex Propel Credit Svcs) Wells Fargo: 844-879-4824 (Direct # for Product Change Credit Svcs) Wright Express: 888-743-3893

I'm just starting my new business. Just officially became registered LLC with state of FL in May 2023. I tried to open a Business Checking acct. with a local Credit Union - Suncoast Credit Union, but was denied because of low credit score on my personal side. They pulled from Experian and my score was a 534. I believe this was a Soft-Pull because I haven't seen any inquiries come up on my credit reports, as of yet. Is there no way to open bank accounts for business without personal credit? I'm currently in the process of disputes on my credit report, but it takes time. Any advice would be great.

I had a Capital One credit card that was charged-off in 2019. The debt hasn't been sold. They haven't contacted me about it. I've called several times to see if i can pay it but they said i can't. It's stopping me from getting new credit and i'm not sure what to do about it. Has anyone here ever experienced something like? Advice needed. Thanks

Hello, all I am repairing my credit. No primary account currently or other accounts. All derogatories have been removed from my report. My score is under 600 and I am an authorized user of American Express the user is under 20%. I am an authorized user of an American Express cardholder. My question is I was told that I can apply, get accepted, and receive an American Express primary account due to the info I stated in the beginning? Please advise some steps I can do to build my credit or a step-by-step PDF. Thanx in advance.

Friends, For building credit which is better for increasing my score, a personal loan that is paid off in a year or two sequential loans paid off in a six months each? I have a 766 score, I have $33K worth of revolving credit that stays around 3% of utilization, I never have had a late payments but until recently I didn't have any installment credit. I opened an account with a credit union and borrowed $1K, added $170 and set up auto pay to pay the loan off in a year but my cerebral synaptic jungle goo fired off the opening question into my pituitary output mass. So friends, please help mm with answers to sooth the building pressure on my hypothalamus mmembran.

How, you ask? Simple - you just can't win. Look at the two items I have here from Credit Karma (yeah, I know - FAKO not FICO, but the principle remains the same). Same date....... Same amount of change in total Credit Card debt Same direction in the amount of debt - down. Same Credit Card Company involved in the change. Same change in number of Credit Core points What's different? One (EFX) went UP six points, and one (TU) went DOWN six points. It's not the number of points that I am questioning, it is the fact that the exact same documented change cause one score to h=go up, nd another to go down, and both by the exact same number of points. You have better odds in a Casino, and a crooked one at that. .

What is the max credit card limit with USAA? I have the rate advantage set at $8500, but I want to see if it possible to go higher to help with DTI. Thank you on advance.

Why Pay for someone to help you build your credit with this tool its very easy and will help you build credit back up in no time!

Iv been battling this car loan late payment with Ally financial for a year now. Iv called and sent dispute/forgiveness letters to Ally trying to get the 30 days late payment removed but they wont budge. I've always paid a lil more then what's due. Because of Covid I looked up the Fair credit act to see if there's protections for us from having negative marks on our credit during the pandemic but still no luck for me. Does anyone have any suggestion for me this is my only late payment.

Hello, My mother recently sold her house and I am trying to help her figure out what debts to pay off, which to try and settle for less, and which to not bother with now or at all. She is looking to get another property (maybe a 15yr fixed mortgage?) and so far has a credit rating of 716, but according to the report I see the bank payoffs after the sale of the house have not been reported. These payoffs came out to about 95K. Her husband died and much of the debt is under his name, however I think due to the state she lives in, the debt is considered hers as well? The debt under his name does not show up on her report. After the sale, she has about 115K to work with, but with these remaining debts: a private loan for 10K, no interest ~4000K owed to plumbing company for repairs credit cards: ~11K in her name on 3 cards, ~1500K in husband's ~1200K owed to hospital All of the above was her now passed husband's except the 3 credit cards mentioned. In order for her to successfully purchase a new home, get rid of as much debt as possible, but still try and have something saved for emergencies or to use otherwise, what would you suggest? Is it worth seeking paid professional advice? Is there a better place to post this? Thanks for any and all help. L.

In reviewing my Equifax report, I noticed 4 accounts that have comments saying "Payment is payroll deductible." 3 of the accounts are closed and charged off credit cards. The 4th is open and being paid as agreed with never any lates. It is clearly not an error in reporting by the creditors because it shows like this on each account (with different dates): 04/2016 Payment is payroll deductible 08/2016 Payment is payroll deductible 02/2017 Payment is payroll deductible I am 100% Positive I have no judgements against me that would enable a credit card debt to be payroll deductible. Is this an effort on behalf of the creditors to further damage my credit by making it appear that an there has been a judgement against me for a particular debt when that has never actually occurred? I've done extensive searching online and haven't found any answer as to why this comment appears.

Hello all. The title says just about everything. Is it known whether or not AMEX holds closed accounts against you when opening new ones? I had three (3) AMEX accounts, none of them were Gold. I entered all three in a DMP (I wanted to keep one open, but the DMP told me not to or else lenders may not accept the plan). I just paid off all three well ahead of the end of the DMP end date. To my knowledge, I have not be subject to an F/R. FICO scores as follows: EX 713 TU 717 EQ 701 I was approved for the CSP yesterday (7/23/21) so I will have a new account lowering my AAoA. I not looking to apply for the AMEX Gold for a few months (depending on your feedback). Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk