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I have the following information on my EWS report ... I really dont know if its bad or good but chase wont give me an account by automated system so it cant be good... help? What is scaring the banks and what can I do to fix things .. I do currently have two good banks .. 1st National and Capital one both with significant sums of money in them. USAA Principal Loss: $0.00 Fee Reversal: $0.00 Combined Loss & Fee Reversal: $0.00 Paid/UnPaid/Settled: Unpaid Contribution Reason: Transacting (or attempting to transact) with an account in an unauthorized or prohibited manner. USAA Incident Date: 12/16/2014 Principal Loss: $0.00 Fee Reversal: $0.00 Combined Loss & Fee Reversal: $0.00 Paid/UnPaid/Settled: Unpaid Contribution Reason: Transacting (or attempting to transact) with an account in an unauthorized or prohibited manner. Bank of America Open Date: 12/10/2007 Close Date: 10/07/2011 Current Account Status: Closed For Cause-Purged Previous Account Status: Closed For Cause Date of Last Status Change: 01/05/2012 Bank of America Open Date: 12/10/2007 Close Date: 10/21/2011 Current Account Status: Closed For Cause-Purged Previous Account Status: Closed For Cause Date of Last Status Change: 12/07/2011 Above account is on twice with same account number and same info Compass bank Open Date: 03/14/2013 Close Date: 11/20/2013 Current Account Status: Closed For Cause Previous Account Status: Closed For Cause-Purged Date of Last Status Change: 07/14/2017 Compass bank Open Date: 03/28/2013 Close Date: 11/29/2013 Current Account Status: Savings Closed For Cause Previous Account Status: Savings Closed For Cause-Purged Date of Last Status Change: 07/14/2017 Compass bank Open Date: 02/18/2015 Close Date: 02/24/2015 Current Account Status: Closed Previous Account Status: Closed-Purged Date of Last Status Change: 07/14/2017 Compass bank Open Date: 02/18/2015 Close Date: 02/26/2015 Current Account Status: Closed Previous Account Status: Closed-Purged Date of Last Status Change: 07/14/2017 Suntrust bank Open Date: 06/12/2017 Close Date: 06/13/2017 Current Account Status: Closed-Purged Previous Account Status: Closed Date of Last Status Change: 07/03/2017 Suntrust bank Open Date: 06/12/2017 Close Date: 06/13/2017 Current Account Status: Savings Closed-Purged Previous Account Status: Savings Closed Date of Last Status Change: 07/03/2017 USAA Open Date: 02/08/2012 Close Date: 10/02/2015 Current Account Status: Closed For Cause Previous Account Status: Post No Debits Date of Last Status Change: 10/02/2015 USAA Open Date: 05/08/2012 Just lists a open date USAA Open Date: 07/06/2012 Close Date: 12/16/2014 Current Account Status: Savings Closed For Cause Previous Account Status: Savings Post No Debits Date of Last Status Change: 12/16/2014 USAA Open Date: 09/24/2012 Close Date: 12/15/2014 Current Account Status: Closed-Purged Previous Account Status: Closed Date of Last Status Change: 12/28/2017 USAA Open Date: 09/24/2012 Close Date: 12/04/2014 Current Account Status: Closed For Cause Previous Account Status: Post No Debits Date of Last Status Change: 12/04/2014 Wells Fargo Open Date: 10/06/2014 Close Date: 11/18/2014 Current Account Status: Closed For Cause-Purged Previous Account Status: Closed For Cause Date of Last Status Change: 11/23/2015 Wells Fargo Open Date: 09/25/2014 Close Date: 12/11/2014 Current Account Status: Closed-Purged Previous Account Status: Closed Date of Last Status Change: 11/23/2015 Wells Fargo Open Date: 10/09/2014 Close Date: 11/19/2014 Current Account Status: Closed-Purged Previous Account Status: Closed Date of Last Status Change: 11/23/2015 Wells Fargo Open Date: 10/30/2014 Close Date: 11/18/2014 Current Account Status: Closed For Cause-Purged Previous Account Status: Closed For Cause Date of Last Status Change: 11/30/2015 Wells Fargo Open Date: 07/29/2014 Close Date: 11/14/2014 Current Account Status: Closed For Cause-Purged Previous Account Status: Closed For Cause Date of Last Status Change: 11/30/2015 Wells Fargo Open Date: 10/09/2014 Close Date: 10/09/2015 Current Account Status: Closed-Purged Previous Account Status: Closed Date of Last Status Change: 08/28/2017 Wells Fargo Open Date: 09/25/2014 Close Date: 12/18/2015 Current Account Status: Closed-Purged Previous Account Status: Closed Date of Last Status Change: 08/28/2017 Wells Fargo Open Date: 03/27/2013 Close Date: 01/08/2014 no account status

Hi new member, I have a question, I'm currently on a payment plan with NRA collection agency for about $5k in medical debt. Which i should have paid off within the next 6 months. But I want to know would it be wise to do the HIPPA process now to try to get it just removed from my report. and I still be able to make my monthly payments. Also they said they would remove it complete once the debt was paid in full.

Recently I took a cruise on Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL). I'm not into cruising, and this one wasn't that great, but that's another story. Anyway, the photography department billed me $25 for a photograph I did not buy. I go to the reception desk before disembarking, and they said they'll take care of that item on my invoice. Of course, they did nothing, and billed me anyway. On Citibank's website there's a place to dispute a charge. In this case, I'm only disputing part of the charge, as the other junk I purchased on this cruise was valid. I enter the amount I am disputing, and then I'm prompted with a question asking if I have proof the charge isn't valid. I clicked "NO" since it's basically my word against NCL's word. After I click the "submit" button the page says something like "Congratulations, you've been issued a PERMANENT credit for the $25." Easy-peasy. They didn't even ask me the reason or what I'm disputing in the charge. Does Citibank just eat this, because I've been a long time customer and $25 is probably nothing for them to be bothered with, or do they deduct the $25 from what NCL gets (they should!)? I'm thinking if I was disputing something big, like a $1,000 charge, it wouldn't be this easy.

if you pay off you loan early who do you get your money back from? the dealer that sold you the car, the bank that held your loan?

I received letters from the IRS today notifying me that my taxes from 2005 and 2006 were sent to private collections. I thought I paid those two years but I learned about the IRS claiming they were overdue 9 years later. The amounts were way higher than I could have possible owed and only a year away from expiring so I just ignored them. I have great credit (830ish) and will be buying a home in a year so I'm freaking out over this. Could these hit my credit reports even though they are 10+ years old? Will I get constantly harassed on the phone now? Can I negotiate a settlement? Thanks all

http://www.autodealermonthly.com/channel/rules-of-the-road/article/story/2018/03/a-dealer-win-and-a-couple-of-lessons.aspx

I got an auto loan through my dealer with a local credit union last year. I have been offered a job in another state (Alaska) and was wondering if i am allowed to stay with my current loan even though I’m moving? thank you

So I made a mistake and financed furniture for my first place. I was young and idoitic and signed a contract that stated all sales final. The contract also stated that I had seven days to get a refund for the merchandise. The merchandise was not in store and the company had to order it online. After a good nights sleep something felt off and I searched the furniture store and noticed most people got furniture that was nothing like what they wanted. I called both the financing company and the merchant to make good on their seven day policy. I never reccieved any furniture and did not walk away with anything. The merchant gave me the run around and said there was nothing they could do. The account was closed May 1st but re opened and charged May 14th. I disputed the charges as the furniture was never attempted to be delivered. I also mailed a cease and desist to both the merchant and the fiance company within the seven day period. The financing company said that I could not dispute the charges and that the contract was binding. I let them know that I still had not reccieved anything from the merchant and the financing company disputed it again. I checked my credit and the balance on the credit card dropped to zero. Is this because it’s in dispute? The balance did not decrease the first time I disputed it. I was young and made a mistake I’d just like to know my options.

I am one month away from paying off my auto load through a local credit union. The loan is in good standing besides a little bit of late fees. Awhile back I had a credit card issued through this same credit union that I got behind on and the balance was charged off. Yesterday I was told that the title to my car is on hold and I won’t be able to get it until a balance from the credit card is paid off. My question is how can they do this if the balance of the credit card was charged off but they keep adding fees on top of it? Is my only option to pay these fees on the credit card before I can get the title to my car? Sorry for the long read and thank you for the help.

It seems you are the man to ask, so Im hoping you can advise. Is it legal for a dealership to claim a person is putting money down on both submission to bank for lending and final purchase documents when the buyer is not actually putting anything down (& neither dealer or buyer plan to ever collect or pay this)? Many Thanks!!

I received a "NOTICE OF DISPOSITION AND OUR PLAN TO SELL PROPERTY" dated 4/16/2018 sent via certified mail. I responded via certified mail within the 10 day timeline stated in the letter requesting a public sale of the property. I did not receive a reply back either via telephone or in writing stating the date the sale was to take place. I received a letter stating that the property was sold on 5/8/2018 via certified mail for $18,000. I received a letter dated 5/15/2018 sent via certified mail stating that the property would be sold on 5/28/2018. This letter was sent AFTER I received the previous letter stating the car was already sold. This final letter received contains several errors: 1. The date of the public auction is wrong. The auction house (Manheim) confirmed they are closed on the day listed ( 5/28/2018) as that is a holiday. 2. The amount listed under (Total Amount required to redeem) is $12,071.54 is wrong. Upon calling attempting to pay the stated amount I was told that the correct amount is approximately $30,000. I have recorded this phone call. Upon calling several times and asking for the correct auction date, the responses have been "I do not know". I asked if I would receive a letter stating the correct date and the answer was "probably not"

I searched for Santander here for info and found they are not looked too favorable on here (I already do not like them). I financed a car with Alphera last May (14 E-Series MB coming off lease). Alittle about my credit-got divorced in 06 with some late mortg. payments and CC pmts-waited it out buying cash cars and not using my credit. Went to buy car in 13 (all baddies were off) and had no score. Used a strong Co-signor with WF Dealer Serv to buy 10 STS with 2.9%-opened a $500 secured CC (my bank-Amegy), then a Discount Tire Card (since paid off but use if for gas from time to time), then a classic car (Medallion), then qualified for non-secured CC ($2500 w/ Amegy), then bought car through Alphera with 5.9% (no co-sign), didn't think that was bad since I only had 5 accounts (now 6-WF and Alphera are only closed ones-Santander hasn't showed yet) and average length of Credit was around 2 yrs (now 2.9)-CS was 760 to 800 with myfico (d/ship said it around 740). I have been paying $150 to $200 extra every payment since June-Alphera always showed I didn't have pmt due since I was atleast a cpl ahead, plus they showed interest rate, amortization, and a other info I liked. I sure liked the fact that I was a cpl pmts ahead (was doing it cause they financed it for 72 even though I wanted 60-it would of been $80 more for 60) for a "just in case" fact. But Santander wasn't showing that and I called them and although they agreed that they had to do same terms (interest rate and length), they said they don't do it that way (no matter how much extra you pay-you always have pmt due), which sux but I'm sure there's not anything I can do about it. Plus they don't list everything everything like Alphera did (basically just pmt history). And speaking of pmt history-it states all my pmts made were made in April '18 (cause that's when they took over-even my return from cancelling the gap) and my balance "now" seems pretty close to where it was with Alphera when I checked a cpl mths ago, I do not trust them. I guess my question is can they really do that with my pmts (pmt due every month even though you are ahead) and is there a amortization calculator I can plug in everything with date I made pmt (would have to use my bank records to get close as that info is gone-I couldn't log into Alphera way before Santander took over) to check their numbers (balance mainly)? Thx in advance.

I was told by a CSR that I cannot make principal payments on my auto loan. Does anyone know if I trade it in, will the dealer be able to pay it off?

Offered without commentary http://thehill.com/policy/finance/386779-house-votes-to-repeal-auto-loan-guidance-setting-new-precedent

A female friend has a paid judgment. She plans to file a motion to vacate. The judgment is in her married name. She is divorced and legally changed her name back to her maiden name. The Motion to Vacate reads: Comes now____________, Defendant, who respectfully requests this court to vacate the judgment against Defendant ____________, filed 08/2009... Would she put her current/maiden name in the first line (as that is the legal name of the person making the motion), and her married name in the second line (as that is the name on the judgment)? Thanks!

I was hoping someone here would be able to provide me with some direction. I have tried calling several lawyers and am told it’s either not their specialty or I can’t get a call back. I'm sorry in advance for the long post. Background: I live in New Mexico and they briefly tried to institute red light cameras. Apparently the state (or city?) cancelled the program last year and the company who partnered with them (Redflex) was left to collect the tickets still owed. The state wrote-off the outstanding tickets and has made it clear they are no longer concerned with collecting these fines. On July 9th I pulled my free credit report and discovered that Redflex had listed five accounts in collections on my credit. Confused because I had never received a ticket or a notice of debt, I called the phone number listed on my credit report to ask what this was for. The woman who answered began to give me some information about the debt but became irate when I asked how they could list my account in collections on my credit without notifying me of the debt. I also asked if this was a ticket, could I take it to court to contest it? The woman began to scream at me and then hung up on me when I asked to speak to a supervisor. I then called the metropolitan court and discovered what this could possibly be for and the rules surrounding it (mainly that I could not contest it because the state was no longer operating the program). They also told me many didn't receive the ticket notices because the tickets were mailed to the address where the car was originally registered, not the address on the drivers license. So if you had moved since buying your vehicle you wouldn't receive the tickets in the mail. After this, on July 11th, I sent the attached validation notice request (link) and asked they respond in writing “that includes the amount of the debt, the name of the creditor, and how to proceed if I don’t think I owe the money.” I also requested we continue this conversation in writing given my experience with their representative. In response, on July 30th, they sent me a letter that provided an account number and instructions to visit a web address to view footage of me running the light. It said I must call their 800 number for more information or to resolve this debt. The letter did not include “the amount of the debt, the name of the creditor, and how to proceed if I don’t think I owe the money.” In an effort to be cooperative, on August 6th, I called the 800 number. This time I recorded the conversation. At first they couldn’t find my account, after being transferred to a supervisor I finally was told the amount of debt that was owed. I asked if we could work out a settlement or payment schedule and was told I had to wait for a call back within the hour. Afterward I pulled my credit again and discovered they had removed those accounts from my credit. On August 21st, I had yet to receive a call so I attempted to call again and was told they couldn’t find my account. I sent the attached final letter (link) that basically states, “Since your company has failed to comply with my request for a validation notice, has removed my accounts from collections, and has ignored my attempts at further communication regarding this matter; I can only assume this matter is resolved.” Recently, I received another copy of the letter they sent me on July 30th. It does not address my letters and only provides me with the same account numbers, web address, and phone number. Here’s my question (but I would also be open to more advice): Should I wait till this company places these accounts back on my credit or take them to court now?

I was hoping to find some advice on how to proceed after an issue with a car salesman running my credit repeatedly without permission. My wife and I bought a car from a salesman who is related to her about a year and a half ago and we recently had another child so we contacted him to keep his eye out for a larger vehicle that may work for us. After talking to him over the phone about three cars he told us after each one that we were too far "upside-down" on our vehicle because they were attempting to give us $4000 under blue book trade-in. When we went to another dealership today and filled out a credit application it came back that our credit was run through 8 different banks, sometimes multiple times on different dates (a total of 18 new inquiries over three months) and my credit score dropped from a low 700 to a 610. Over this time I have had no new loans and made every payment on time for all of my loans (car and student only). I am planning on calling the dealership tomorrow and talk to a business manager about the issue to see if they cannot do something about the salemans actions and to contact the credit bureau to get these inquiries erased as we never gave permission to run credit and never even went to the dealership to look at any car, let alone sign any paperwork. I wanted to check a few different resources to see if there is any other legal action that needs to be taken as I take this situation very seriously as it is fraud and forgery in my eyes. Any help that could be offered would be greatly appreciated.