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Found 189 results

  1. I had a Eufora account 5 1/2 years ago. I paid the yealy $80 fee once 5 years ago and then requested that the account be closed. I did not have any outstanding charges on the card. Now it is appearing on my credit report as a 30 day late(not a collections account) and shows that the account was opened 5 years and 4 months ago. Eufora is now defunct so...what do I do to get that $80 off my credit report? The tradeline says Eufora and an Arizona address, unsecured loan payment rems $10 for 12 months. Does not list any payment history for the past 48 months. How do I get rid of them? Thank you!
  2. iithinkican

    Lurker seeking advice

    Hello Everyone - it is Oct 1, 2014 I have been lurking on this site for a bit and finally decided to register and post my own struggles and seek advice. I just graduated from college in June and got a job in August and make a decent salary; I'm able to save about $1000-1500/mo after regular bill payments, depending on how frugal I am. I also live in California where the SOL is 4 years. I have opted-out and am in the process of calling the CRAs to remove old addresses. I haven't gotten any real reports, annualcreditreport.com gave me "We were unable to honor your request. " I am going to print and send the form that came with the notice. creditkarma.com lists the following: Credit Score: 602 (up from 597 last month - woohoo!) Auto Loan: $13,714.24 @ 2.9% (not a problem) Fed Student Loans: $47,345 @ 3.6-6.8% (unconsolidated - still in grace period) Sallie Mae: $27,018 @9.75% (yikes!) 6 derrogatory remarks: CA1) $1642 - Delinquent Capital One (Feb 2011) CA2) $839 - Medical - Uninsured at the time (Feb 2011) CA3) $735 - Delinquent CC? not sure - (Oct 2013) CA4) $640 - Dental - Uninsured at the time (Oct 2010) CA5) $183 - Medical - Uninsured at time (Feb 2010) CA6) $122 - delinquent Utility bill (Nov 2011) I think it is worth noting that none of these accounts are with the original debtor but a Collection Agency. So I'm trying to come up with a plan of attack here: Obviously I want to get rid of all the negative CA marks, however, the interest on the Sallie Mae loan is killing me. I know I have 36 months of deferment for the Fed. Loans and I'm hoping to have a huge chunk of the SM loan paid off by the time that's up. For SM The minimum payment is about $249 and I can afford to pay $500-750/mo but that doesn't leave much room for aggressively tackling the CA's and still build a savings. Some of those accounts are past the SOL and one (CA4) is approaching the end of the SOL. I have moved around quite a bit so if there was a summons sent I didn't get it. I'm a little hesitant to send out DV letters as I read here that it could actually harm me: http://www.avoidbk.com/debt-validation-letter/ Should I send out DV's to the ones past the SOL or send them a C&D? I think the next logical step would be to verify the debts listed above that aren't past SOL by phone and try to strike a deal. I did get one off my report by paying 50% of the original debt amount, Is this bad practice? Next would be to aggressively pay off the SM debt after I've built a good savings and cleared the CA marks. Maybe join a CU and consolidate all the SL debt into one at a lower rate. What do you think? Thanks in advance!
  3. mypenplease

    repo collection issue

    I am hoping to find some good help In Nevada, I had my car repo’d from coming out of divorce, nothing I could do… it seemed like the best move. anyway to make a long story short. After the Repo about 3 months later I received a letter for the bank notice to pay in full and they will be selling the car, then nothing for 9 months. I get a letter from a collection company wanting $13,600 I respond with this > Dear Mr. Recoveries Thanks for your letter I just received it. Sorry for the delay in returning correspondence I am currently struggling with unemployment and homelessness and on the good graces of friends and family. I am looking at all legal means to resolve this. First I need to start by getting the assignment of this debt or it’s probably safe to say the debt is not valid. As referenced in the top of the letter, I am financially bankrupt and only have the support of friends and family. Because this is a legal matter any future communication will be in writing. *no response from the letter. like the letter say’s, I have been getting my flowers kicked, so flash forward here present day it is now 13 months, like the letter has said I have been sleeping at my moms saving money, im a little better off. I would like to get this fixed before it gets out of control. I have called some attorneys, not real promising. looks like with such a low amount of debt, I’m prolly on my own with this and im not going to turn my money over to these debt settlement scam agencies. my questions are this - what should I try to settle this for? what is my next step? and advice going forward? what are the chances of getting sued? and do I have this correct that in Nevada they have 3 years SOL on this?
  4. Hi all - I'm new to the site but from what I've been reading it seems to be VERY informative! Hopefully this a quick question to answer. Just recently I started taking my credit seriously and that meant actually viewing my reports. I found many discrepancies that I disputed and had them removed, yay! I have a valid collection that remains on two of my reports. I am wondering if it is best to pay them (hopefully at a settled price) and ask them to remove it from my reports. Is this something that I could ask? Is it even possible? Should I even pay them? It's with Midland and from some of the things I read on here it seems like they're being sued for something so before I proceed I would love to get some feedback. Also one more thing I have a student load that I defaulted on and just recently set up to make payments. I haven't made one yet and that account is listed under potentially negative. Do you think I could send them a letter after I made a few payments to ask to take the delinquency off? Other than those two things the only other I need to do to to up my credit is to actually get a card. I applied for a secured one so I'm hoping that helps. Thanks in advance and sorry if it's really long!
  5. AnnMichele

    DV Midland??

    I had another post but thought it may be best to start a new one with this information. I disputed Midland's collection on my TU report and this is what is now written as a note: "Account information disputed by consumer (Meets requirement of the Fair Credit Reporting Act)." So basically they verfied the debt but that doesn't mean that it's validated correct? I could send them a DV letter? I'm still reading up on boards every chance I get. This debt is the only negative on two of my reports (besides some late fees). Midland is currently NOT showing on my EQ report (that one appears to be my cleanest) and this what is listed on my EX: MIDLAND FUNDING Potential Negative Closed Account Name: MIDLAND FUNDING Account #: XXXXX Balance: $140 Date Opened: 8/1/2011 Account Status: Closed Payment Status: Seriously past due date / assigned to attorney, collection agency, or credit grantor's internal collection department At this point, I'm little lost. I have been reading anything and everything regarding them and DV and PFD. In this case they seemed to have have closed the account but on my TU report it is open. I just would love to have some advice on what my next step should be. How can the account be closed AND be opened at the same time?? What in the world do I do now?
  6. Does anyone know how a cell phone bill is classified? I have been googling for days and have yet to find a clear answer. The statue of limitations in my state is 10 years for written contracts and 3 years for open accounts. I have a 3.5 year old cell phone bill in collections (Midland) and I desperately need to know if the SOL has run out on this. Thank you.
  7. I have credit cards that's in collections and a for profit school that I need to remove from credit report.
  8. Hello CBers. My credit was looking great thanks to your help, but now I have a new baddie. It is from Online Collections for about $50.00. Reported on 8/14. Assigned 6/14. DFD of 6/11. Original creditor is Entergy New Orleans. Before I send a DV, I'd like to know if anyone has any other thoughts or experiences. I've removed an ERC collection using a DV. I removed CM collection for a friend by PFD. I've read on the board that these Online Collections people respond to DV and will not PFD. Not reading good things about them.
  9. Hello, I'm in the final stages of recovery from a bad financial situation in 2008. I had a ton of negatives on my reports. Now I have zero late payments (96 payments and all on-time), 0 credit inquiries, nice aged accounts, and credit utilization under control. I'm happy about that. However, I have one major issue with my report. I have FOUR derogatory remarks: 3 open accounts in collection and one public record. I defaulted on those credit cards way back in 2008. However, on my most recent pull on credit karma, it shows a "data opened" of feb, 2012 with Asset Acceptance, LLC. The last payment I made on the credit card account (with bank of america) was back in 2008 though. I'm from Michigan btw if statute of limitations is a concern. However, I've been overseas for the last several years. I'm confused as to what is my best course of action to get these removed from my credit reports. I've done reading so I'm not asking without having done some homework first. I would really appreciate some advice. I'm coming back to the U.S. next month and I really want to attack these and get them off my credit report. So should I be asking asset acceptance to validate?
  10. Chris457

    Strange account/dispute

    Hi, So, I pulled my credit report from Experian and there is an account listed in collections. It says the original creditor is Comcast. The "date opened" is 07/2013 and "reported since" is 02/2014. It also says under "Your Statement:" "Account information disputed by consumer (Meets requirement of the Fair Credit Reporting Act). Well, I didn't open an account with Comcast in 2013 and I've never disputed it. I may have had an account with Comcast about 4 or 5 years ago (I don't remember if it was in my name) but this must be somebody else's account? I went to the collection company's website and entered my Social Security #, and sure enough there it was. So I have two questions: 1) Is it possible this is from that old account? 2) What would be the best way to go about correcting this? I'm thinking I should contact Experian and ask them when/who/how it was disputed and then contact the collections agency and ask them what this is about? I'm also pretty sure I've never received any mail or phone calls from the collection agency. Any ideas or advice would be very appreciated. Thanks!
  11. I'm about to send my first DV. Is it okay to use an online service to send CMRRR such as LetterStream? Or does that somehow defeat the purpose of the CMRRR? The only thing I can think of is I might not be able to add the tracking number to the letter itself.
  12. I am not talking about OC's that have lawyers or inhouse collectors, perhaps working on a percentage... I am talking about a charged off OC balance with -0- due and owing that has totally sold their position in the outstanding amount... Anybody know about this?Thanks if so...
  13. I sent a DV to CACH LLC over a month ago. I sent it certified mail but they don't mention that I'm disputing the charges on my recent Credit Report. Since this is an error on their end, could I send a letter to the CRA's demanding deletion?
  14. Hello Creditboards! Newbie here! I just graduated from the University of Kentucky and want to clean up my credit before I decide to obtain any loans in the future. I have an account in collections at the moment from college housing. They pretty much claimed we trashed the place and wanted two other roomates and I to pay $832 EACH for damages. They had an appeals process where I supplied photos of the property before we left but they didn't budge. I was stubborn at the time and let it go to collections. Fast forward to 2014. I sent the CA a DV to dispute the charges. They sent a letter back stating: " Your dispute has been investigaated; however, we have yet to find sufficient evidance to validate your claim. It is very important that you provide our company with all documentation supporting your position. In the event that new information is obtained which places doubt on the validity of this debt, we will promptly update our records accordingly. " Then they loaded the letter with a bunch of crap and included a copy of my lease and an itemized printout. The charges they claim I owe are listed under refund and forfeits, and utility charges totaling to $832. Is this proper documentation? and where should I go from here? Thanks for any help in advance.
  15. Yikes! I think I've screwed up & need help fixing it. I received a bill for labwork ($650 in Aug 2012) that should have been covered by insurance as part of a physical exam. I disputed the charge, the hospital said I still owed it, and it ended up in collections. I finally managed to talk my doctor into resubmitting the claim to my insurance, who has agreed to pay it, but the process is taking a really long time. Being completely naive, I've spent countless hours on the phone with both hospital billing and the collections agency trying to fix this on my own. Just the other day, the CA told me the interest is piling up and that the dispute is active on my credit report...I panicked and verbally agreed to pay the amount due, which they said they would refund to me once my insurance finally pays. They told me they recorded an "agree to pay" by July 30. I then checked my credit reports (free version of all three) and didn't see anything about this bill or a dispute. I'm trying to be honest and do the right thing, but after reading through this board, I think I've made some serious mistakes. I deeply appreciate any advice. Warmly, Andrea in San Diego
  16. lev0509

    Just getting started

    So I am completely new to this forum, I have read over WhyChats page and before I started on his program, I just wanted to make sure his guidelines are for my situation. I am just stressed that some of these creditors are going to try and take me to court for this when I go and try to dig up dirt and disputing some of this. I am 24 and I have another baby on the way so my husband and I are trying to get into a home, but of course we have to fix our credit first. Here is what my credit is looking like: TransUnion: Capital One Opened 9/12/2010 Last payment made 08/27/2013 Original ChargeOff $683 Status Charged Off. (Credit Card) Verizon Date Opened 2/18/2009 Payment Received $0 Original ChargeOff $765 Status Charged Off Wells Fargo Opened 6/20/2010 Last payment made 8/26/2013 ChargeOff $589 Status Charged Off (Credit Card) Central Finance Control Placed for collection 12/5/2013 Balance $151(Medical) Central Finance Control Placed for collection 2/20/13 Balance $1,222(Medical) CMI Placed for collection 12/22/2013 Balance $504(Medical) Security Collection Placed for collection 7/3/2013 Balance $100(Medical) Stern and Associates Placed for collection 4/15/2013 Balance $75(Medical) Experian: Amerifinancial Solutions 5/2014 $893 (Medical) Capital One (same as above) Central Financial Control (Same as above) $1,222 (Medical) Central Financial Control (Same as above) $151 (Medical) Credit Management Opened 12/2013 $504 Collections (Time Warner) Enhanced Recovery Corporation 9/20213 $628 (Comcast) - I have disputed this one several times because I never had them, it disappears then 5 or 6 months later shows back up Kross/Lieberman & Stone 1/2013 $243 (Medical) Stern and Associates (Same as above) $ 75 (Medical) Verizon (Same as above) $765 Wells Fargo (Same as above) $589 (Credit Card) I do have two car loans that are in good standings on all 3 credit reports, one has been open 2 years with no missed or late payments and the other 1 year with no missed or late payments so they are somewhat working in my favor to help rebuild my credit Do I start with having my old address removed and then continuing the rest of WhyChat's process, or should I just not stir anything and pray no one takes me to court?! Sorry for the long post, just a bit confused on what path I should take to get started on.
  17. MouseStomper

    Convergent Outsourcing Help

    Convergent Collection Help I've been diligently working on repairing my credit for the last year and have been having a lot of success. A little more than a year ago I was at mid-low 500s and now i'm at around 620. I printed out copies of each of the 3 credit bureau reports back in April of this year and looked over everything to make sure it was correct. All seems OK. Yesterday I received a letter from convergent outsourcing regarding an outstanding balance of just under $400 from JP Morgan Chase which I don't recall. I called Chase this morning and told them I knew nothing about this. They looked up the account and said that it was a charge off from 3/2010. I said I don't recall this account and they referred me back to convergent outsourcing which I've yet to speak to. I also asked if they report this to the credit bureaus to which they said no. When I asked if the collection agency would report, they said that I would have to ask them. My question is this; If the debt is mine and has not been reported on my credit report, can the collection agency add this to it? I've been working so hard and it would really be a setback if Convergent were to report this. I'm not sure why Chase wouldn't have reported it in the first place. I just don't know whether to freak out about this or let it be and ignore it. I have no problem paying the debt, but if it won't get reported then I would opt to try to settle. I live in Colorado, if that helps. Thank you
  18. I recently received a letter from First Nation Collection Bureau, Inc. out of Sparks, Nevada. The debt is listed as originally an AT&T account. This debt very well could be legitimate, but I honestly have no idea because the last time I held an AT&T account was 8-9 years ago. The letter contained so little information I am having a hard time determining if this was even legitimate. I have checked all 3 of my credit reports and there is nothing to reflect this collection. I am just looking for some general advice how to handle a situation like this. Thanks!
  19. Hi everyone! I haven't posted in a while! I've been stalking on and off I miss everyone here and these forums! I have a serious issue. My brother was involved in an accident and can not work. He has been EVICTED from his home as well and is not working at the moment. He bought furniture from Rooms To Go under a RAC acceptance agreement. The collection agents at RAC acceptance have been going to his place of employment searching for him and share the information regarding the furniture and the collection efforts with everyone. They even call family members SEVERAL TIMES a day to collect on this debt. I just got off the phone with their collection agent. She asked me if my brother can talk yet and she said she is sorry that he was in a car accident. I told her he can barely speak at this point but she kept insisting that he call her. She said that she isn't doing anything illegal by the sharing of information with his co-workers. They physically show up at his place of employment and talk to his co-workers! Is there anything he can do to keep them from continuing with their harassing phone calls to family and work? This is in the state of VA. He was evicted and doesn't know what happened to the furniture. Thanks
  20. A collections agency contacted me about a forgotten student loan then went into default. I have also asked them for information on the account. I acknowledge the debt, but I have questions about dealing with the collections agency: 1) Is it possible to negotiate a lump sum payment for less than the full amount? If so, how can I go about doing this? What % of the amount owed should I be willing to settle immediately? 2) I don't have the entire amount available, but I am interested in avoiding having to make monthly payments with additional interest if possible. However, if I have to, how do people usually negotiate monthly payments with a CA? I don't have property, nor wages that they would be able to garnish. I'm not particularly concerned about the current bad credit, since it will be off before I will be interested in any additional financing. 3) Under these circumstances, would any sort of rehabilitation program be worth it for me? Any information on how to handle this situation would be helpful!
  21. Hello All, Im new to this forum and I wanted get you all feedback when comes to disputing negative information with the Credit Bureaus. In past I used normal typing with no success. I want to dispute some collections, inquires, charge offs, and some late pays. Have any you all used any these codes to dispute these negatives to by pass the EOscar system? When the letter is written does the bureaus employees really investigate or do you just delete due fact they have some disputes they have to do and quotas they have to meet? Anyone have any success when you using these dispute reasons? Thanks in advance for all your feedback. e-OSCAR Dispute Codes The 29 e-OSCAR dispute codes are as follows: • Not his/hers • Belongs to another individual with same/similar name • Not aware of collection • Late due to change of address – never received statement • Settlement or partial payment accepted • Claims paid the original creditor before collection status or paid before charge-off • Credit limit and/or high credit amount incorrect • Included in the bankruptcy of another person • Claims account closed • Claims account closed by consumer • Contract cancelled or rescinded • Account included in bankruptcy • Claims active military duty • Insurance claim delayed • Account involved litigation • Claims victim of natural or declared disaster • Claims account deferred • Not liable for account (i.e. ex-spouse, business) • Account reaffirmed or not included in bankruptcy • Claims true identity fraud, account fraudulently opened • Claims account take-over, fraudulent charges made on account • Disputes dates of last payment/date opened/date of first delinquency/date closed • Disputes present/previous account status/payment history profile/payment rating • Disputes special comment/compliance condition code/narrative remarks • Disputes account type or terms duration/terms frequency or portfolio type disputed • Disputes current balance • Claims company will change • Claims company will delete • Consumer states inaccurate information Hopefully this wording can assist some in their dispute letters. Quote MultiQuote Report Explanation of Credit Report Codes and Dispute Statements Menu BK ADJ PLN – Debit included in or completed through Bankruptcy Chapter 13 Dispute Statement: This account was renegotiated and satisfied. Please investigate and change to positive rating. BK LIQ REQ ‑ Debit included in or discharged thru Bankruptcy Chapter 7 or 11. Dispute Statement: This account was satisfied and discharged. This account was not included in my bankruptcy. Please investigate and change to positive rating. CHARGE OFF – Unpaid balance reported as a loss by credit grantor. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed. This account was never charged off as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. CLOS INAC – Closed inactive account. [Contact creditor and try to re‑establish closed account. Or, if a negative entry use this dispute:] Dispute Statement: This account was in good standing prior to being closed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. CLOS NP AA – Credit line closed/not paying as agreed. Dispute Statement: This account was renegotiated, paid and satisfied. The account was never late or delinquent. Please investigate and remove from my profile or change to positive rating. COLL ACCT – Account seriously past due/account assigned to attorney, collection agency or credit grantor’s internal collection department. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed. This account never went into collections. Please investigate and remove from my profile. CO NOW PAY – Now paying, was a charge off. Dispute Statement: This account was not a charge off, it has been and still is in good standing with the company. Please investigate and remove from my profile or change to a positive rating. CR CD LOST – Credit card lost or stolen. [Contact lender and see if account is still open. If it is, have the company issue a new card. If the account is listed with a negative rating, use this dispute:] Dispute Statement: This account is open and in good standing. Change to a positive rating. CR LN RNST – Account now available for use and is in good standing. Was a closed account. [No dispute needed unless entry is rated as negative. If it is, use this dispute:] Dispute Statement: This should be listed as positive rating. Please investigate and change to a positive rating. CURR ACCT – This is either an open or closed account in good standing. Was a closed account, it should be available for use and there may be a balance due. If account is closed, there was no past due amounts reported and it was paid. [No dispute needed unless entry is rated as negative. If it is, use this dispute:] Dispute Statement: This should be listed as a positive rating. Please investigate and change to a positive rating. CUR WAS COL – Current account was a collection account. Dispute Statement: This account is in good standing as agreed with the company. This account never went into collections as listed. Please investigate and remove from my profile or change to a positive rating. CURR WAS DL – Current account was past due. Dispute Statement: This account is in good standing as agreed with the company. This account was never delinquent as listed. Please investigate and remove from my profile and change to a positive rating. CURR WAS 30 ‑ Current account was 30 days past due. Dispute Statement: This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive to positive rating. CURR WAS 30‑2 – Current account was 30 days past due twice. Dispute Statement: This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. CURR WAS 30‑3 ‑ Current account was 30 days past due three times. Dispute Statement: This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. CURR WAS 30‑4 – Current account was 30 days past due four times. Dispute Statement: This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. CURR WAS 30‑5 – Current account was 30 days past due five times. Dispute Statement: This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. CURR WAS 30‑6 – Current account was 30 days past due six times. Dispute Statement: This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. CURR WAS 60 – Current account was 60 days delinquent. Dispute Statement: This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. CURR WAS 90 – Current account was 90 days delinquent. Dispute Statement: This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating CURR WAS 120 – Current account was 120 days delinquent. Dispute Statement: This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating CURR WAS 150 – Current account was 150 days delinquent. Dispute Statement: This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating CURR WAS 180 – Current account was 180 days delinquent. Dispute Statement: This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating DECEASED – Consumer deceased. [if consumer is not deceased, contact creditor and try to re‑establish the account.] Dispute Statement: No dispute needed. Creditor must contact credit bureau. DELINQ 60 ‑ Account delinquent 60 days. Dispute Statement: Arrangements were made with the company. This account was never delinquent as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. DELINQ 90 ‑ Account delinquent 90 days. Dispute Statement: Arrangements were made with the company. This account was never delinquent as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. DELINQ 120 ‑ Account delinquent 120 days. Dispute Statement: Arrangements were made with the company. This account was never delinquent as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. DELINQ 150 ‑ Account delinquent 150 days. Dispute Statement: Arrangements were made with the company. This account was never delinquent as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. DELINQ 180 ‑ Account delinquent 180 days. Dispute Statement: Arrangements were made with the company. This account was never delinquent as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. DEL WAS 90 ‑ Account delinquent 90 days/now 30 or 60 days delinquent. Dispute Statement: Arrangements were made with the company. This account was never delinquent as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. GOVCLAIM – Claim filed with government for insured portion of balances on an educational loan. Dispute Statement: This account should reflect a positive paid account status. Please investigate and change to positive rating. FORECLOSURE – Credit grantor sold collateral to settle defaulted mortgage. Dispute Statement: This property was sold and payment made as agreed with the company prior to the foreclosure date. Please investigate and remove for my profile. FOR PROC – Foreclosure proceeding started. Dispute Statement: This account is open and in good standing. This account is not now nor has ever been in foreclosure. Please investigate and remove from my profile. INQUIRY – A copy of the credit profile has been sent to this credit grantor at their request. Dispute Statement: I never applied or signed an authorization for this inquiry. Please investigate and remove from my profile [if the inquiry remains as a separate listing even after you have opened an account with the lender, use this dispute:] Dispute Statement: This inquiry is an open account and should be listed within the company’s rating area. Please update and delete this inquiry. [if the inquiry is more than 3 years old, use this dispute:] Dispute Statement: This inquiry listing is out dated and must be removed from my profile. INS CLAIM – Claim filed for payment of insured portion of balance. Dispute Statement: This account should not be listed as an insurance claim. Please investigate and remove from my profile. NOT PAID AA – Account not being paid as agreed. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account should reflect a paid positive status. Please investigate and change to positive or remove from my profile. PAID ACCT – Closed account/zero balance/not rated by credit grantor. Dispute Statement: This account was kept positive and should reflect a positive paid account. PAID SATIS – Closed account/paid satisfactory. [No dispute is needed if listed as a positive. If listed as negative use this dispute.] Dispute Statement: This account was kept as a positive and should reflect a positive paid account. Please investigate and change to positive status. PD BY DLER ‑ Credit grantor paid by company who originally sold the merchandise. Dispute Statement: This account was renegotiated with dealer but paid by me. Please investigate and remove from my profile. PD CHG OFF – Paid account/was a charge off. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account was never charged off as listed. Please investigate and remove from my profile. PD COLL AC – Paid account/was a collection account, insurance claim or education claim. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account was never charged off as listed. Please investigate and remove from my profile. PD FORECLO – Paid account. Some payments were made past the agreed due dates. Dispute Statement: This account was renegotiated and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account never went into foreclosure as listed. Please investigate and change to a positive rating or remove from my profile PAID NOT AA – Paid account. Some payments were made past the agreed due dates. Dispute Statement: This account was renegotiated and satisfied as agreed with the company. Please investigate and change to positive rating. PD REPO – Paid account/was a repossession. Dispute Statement: This account was renegotiated and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account was never a repossession as listed. Please investigate and change to a positive rating or remove from my profile. PD WAS 30 – Paid account/was past due 30 days. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. PD WAS 30‑2 – Paid account/was past due 30 days two or three times. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. PD WAS 30‑4 – Paid account/was past due 30 days four times. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. PD WAS 30‑5 – Paid account/was past due 30 days five times. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. PD WAS 30‑6 – Paid account/was past due 30 days six or more times. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. PD WAS 60 – Paid account/was delinquent 60 days. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. PD WAS 90 – Paid account/was delinquent 90 days. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. PD WAS 120 – Paid account/was delinquent 120 days. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. PD WAS 150 – Paid account/was delinquent 150 days. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. PD WAS 180 – Paid account/was delinquent 180 days. Dispute Statement: This account was paid and satisfied as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. REDMD REPO – Account was a repossession/now redeemed. Dispute Statement: The company had no right to repossess. Property was returned after the error was found. Account was paid as agreed. Please investigate and remove the negative information form my profile. REPO – Merchandise was taken back by credit grantor. There may be a balance due. Dispute Statement: This account was never a repossession. The account was satisfied with the company. Please investigate and remove from my profile. SCNL – Credit grantor cannot locate consumer. Dispute Statement: This company made no effort to contact me. The account has been kept in good standing. I have always forwarded updated information to them. Please investigate and remove from my profile. SCNL NWLOC – Credit grantor could not locate consumer/consumer now located. Dispute Statement: this company never lost contact with me as listed. The account is in good standing and I have never been late with payments. I have always forwarded updated information to them. Please investigate. SETTLED – Account legally paid in full for less than the full balance. [No dispute is needed unless it is listed as a negative entry. If it is a negative entry, us this dispute statement:] Dispute Statement: This account was renegotiated and satisfied with the company as agreed. Please investigate and change to a positive entry or remove from my profile. TOONEWRT – Account to new to rate. [This should not be disputed. It is a “neutral” statement. However, watch for a status change in subsequent reports and respond accordingly if it changes to a negative statement.] TRANSFERRED – Account transferred to another office. [No dispute is needed unless it is listed as a negative entry. If it is a negative entry, use this dispute:] Dispute Statement: This was a change of location only. The account is now and has always been in good standing. Please investigate and remove or change to a positive rating. VOLUN REPO ‑ Voluntary repossession. Dispute Statement: This account was satisfied as agreed. This account should not reflect a repossession. Please investigate and change to positive rating. 30 2 TIMES – Account past due 30 days two times. Dispute Statement: This account is in good standing as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. 30 3 TIMES – Account past due 30 days three times. Dispute Statement: This account is in good standing as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. 30 4 TIMES – Account past due 30 days four times. Dispute Statement: This account is in good standing as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. 30 5 TIMES – Account past due 30 days five times. Dispute Statement: This account is in good standing as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. 30 6+ TIMES – Account past due 30 days six times or more.Dispute Statement: This account is in good standing as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating. 30 was 60 – Account was delinquent 60 days/now 30 days. Dispute Statement: This account is in good standing as agreed with the company. This account was never late as listed. Please investigate and change to positive rating.
  22. CTSMOM01

    How should I proceed?

    Hello to all my CB fam! So I'm in the process of looking for my first home to purchase. I have an approval for my mortgage loan and the only thing they are requesting is that I pay off the only collection listed on my credit file. The collection is a Midland/T-Mobile account for $470 from 2010. My question is how should I proceed with this? Originally it was two accounts listed, but when I applied for new T-Mobile service in November it disappeared from two bureaus completely and only one account is listed on Equifax now. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  23. dwhit316

    Credit Journey Advice for DH

    Hey Everyone, I could really use your help on my DH's report. He finally realized that avoidance doesn't solve problems. So we are tying to get things in order and fortunately, it's not as bad as I thought. I've sent in and called to get all the old addresses removed. Because he was in the Navy, it was a LOT! I got a copy of the reports and this is what is listed. I also diputed them after getting address removed and they were verified, so what's next? I've read through the info and i'm thinking I should send a verification letter to the CA, but I wanted to get some thoughts on what I should do before I proceed. Experian: 2 collections less than 300 from about 3 years ago. (old Comcast utilitlies before we got married) 1 apartment collection almost 5000 from about 3 years ago - He says this is inacurrate because he had finished the lease, so there's no way he owes them that much for repairs (no pets and very clean) Equifax - most intense 1 Auto Charge Off $6000 1st delinquency is 03/09 which is inaccurate, he said he never paid after the first month because the motor blew after the first month (some buy here pay here place) 3 Ga Power Collections each less than 200 2 apartment collections - 1 Is on Experian, the other is from 2 years ago right before we moved together, someone broke into the apt and the landlord told him he could move if he'd like 2 Comcast Utitlities 1 Medical Collection - going to attempt Why Chat's method TransUnion 2 Comcast collections 1 medical collection $300 (same as Equifax) 1 apartment that's on the other 2
  24. I have the following items remaining that have $0.00 balances, (2) accounts are only showing one 1 CRA and I have 2 reporting to all 3 CRA's. Even though they have been completely paid for at least 1.5 years now they are still showing as "Potentially Negative". Is there a way I can have those deleted or moved to out of the "Potentially Negative" area? These are the last 4 accounts reporting in that area. VETERAN'S ADMN- Account #--9XXXXXXXXXXXXX Account Type--Installment Balance--$0.00 Date Opened--3/1/2011 (Completely paid off as of 3/2012) Reporting Bureau: Equifax COLLECT ASSOCIATES Account #-CXXXXXX Account Type-Collection Account Balance-$0.00 Date Opened-9/29/2011 (Completely paid off as of 9/2012) Reporting Bureau: Transunion G M A C Account #-3XXXXXXXXXXX Account Type-Auto Loan-Installment Balance--$0.00 Date Opened-11/1/2004 (Completely paid off as of 6/2010) Reporting Bureaus: Transunion/Equifax/Experian USA DISCOUNTERS CREDIT Account #-3XXXXXXXXX Account Type-Installment Sales Contract Balance--$0.00 Date Opened-9/1/2007 (Completely paid off as of 3/2010) Reporting Bureaus: Transunion/Equifax/Experian
  25. I'm building credit from zero, no open accounts and no negatives. I've applied for an received a Capital One Quicksilver One. I've since read that applying for credit triggers collections (and I've since opted out). A week ago I got a collection from Enhanced Recovery for less than $250. It has now landed on all three CRAs. It is four years old and the original account is AT&T. I never received a dunning letter from Enhanced Recovery. This is my first time dealing with collections on my credit report. I believe I'm supposed to start with a debt validation letter sent by certified mail return receipt (or fax?). I was going to use this as a template. http://www.debtclear.com/templates/DISPUTE-AND-DEBT-VALIDATION-REQUEST-FOR-30+-Days.pdf I've seen a lot of advice on these letters. Some say hand write them them they won't be read by a computer. Others say never sign your name because they forge your signature. Also, I'm not sure what to do after I've sent this letter. What steps to I take with the CRAs to remove the debt? I've found steps that start from the dunning letter, but I'm not sure how to proceed when it lands on my credit report without a dunning letter. If there ever was a dunning letter it would have been four years ago.

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