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Hoping the experts can help me make the best move here. I bought a car and financed it. At the time, it was a reasonable (but not amazing loan) at around 5% APR. Then about a year later, I went bankrupt (chapter 7.) The attorney told me basically that as long as I kept paying the loan, I would not have any issues with it. (The intention was always to keep the car and loan.) Shortly after my BK was filed, the bank with the auto loan put me in this weird status so I cannot autopay, I have to pay manually every time. It also will not tell me my current balance, payment amount, due date, nothing - but it will allow me to just continue paying the same amount I have always paid. Finally, if I call in I have to be transferred to their 'bankruptcy' dept which means waiting on hold 40 mins or longer to talk to someone and what they can do or tell me is incredibly limited. I told the attorney, they said this is normal, just keep paying, and a few months later the BK discharged. Well... fast forward a year and the loan is still stuck in this state. The bank claims they sent my attorney several attempts to get me to re-affirm the loan before my BK was discharged. (The attorney denies ever getting anything.) They claim that without this, there is nothing they can do. Note: the loan shows on my credit reports as always paid on time, from the month of my first payment to the month I filed for BK. So it's like 11 months of paid on time indicators - then nothing. Also, it shows the balance as several thousand dollars more than it truly currently is, because again it's essentially frozen at the last data point they had before I filed for BK. I mention this because on my current credit reports, one of the things they call out as having a significant negative impact on my scores, is my installment loan balance/s being too high / too close to the original balance/s. I have considered a few options - a couple of credit unions have indicated they believe I would likely be approved for a car loan, and I could effectively refinance this. (Yes I explained the whole thing and they are ok with the fact that I went bankrupt and this loan is stuck in some weird state now with not being re-affirmed.) Also, they would be doing 1.9-3% interest so this would actually save me some money as they payments would be a bit lower. However, I want to try to buy a house in the next year or so - do you guys think this strategy (refinance the auto loan) would result in a net positive impact to my credit score in 1 year? Initially I think there would be a hit due to the inquiries and opening a new account, but after a year of good payment history do you think my score would have benefited more than it initially suffered by doing this? (In case it matters or affects strategy, I should note that I have a ton of equity in the car at this point. Due to the pandemic I have barely used it; I owe less than 50% of the car's book value at this point.) Another option I considered is, what if I did a dispute with the credit bureaus and said hey you are showing the balance of this loan as 27k, here is a 10-day payoff statement from the lender showing 15k... so you need to fix the loan balance. Would they do it? Or would they be more likely to delete the account from my credit entirely (unclear if that would overall help or hurt me) or could there be some other negative consequence? A few other side notes - shortly after BK I pulled my credit (the real deal, from myfico) and they were all around low 600s. I applied for a credit card and got instantly approved. Over the next few months I applied for a few more and got 2/4 of them. I finally realized I had a path into navy fed, got in and tried to get the navy fed cash rewards card, but got turned down - so I opted for the secured one. ~3 months later the navy fed secured card doubled my limit (without requiring more security.) Then as each card hit 6 months, literally ever one increased my limit, and the navy fed one converted to the cash rewards card that I had tried to get in the first place! I haven't paid to re-up my myfico triple scores yet but I believe they are all currently mid to high 600s. (I do check EXP constantly as it's free; that score is about 650 currently.) Thanks for reading!!

I have been searching High and low trying to find who Pep Boys Commercial Net 30 account report to, but it seems that i can only find one forum speaking about them. and the information provided on the forum is not very clear so hopefully someone can help provide what i the right answer Thanks in advance

Any explanation would be great. I thought to list a series of events would be better than some long paragraph. I have pics and proof for all events below. Mid May: Ordered Vehicle (checked credit score showing 730 at the time) June 7: Toyota Financial Services received payment for old lease June 12: TFS closed account June 30: TFS reported to the credit bureau account closed on June 12 Friday July 9: Credit was pulled by dealer (first of knowing of outstanding balance on a said closed account)Was able to get bumped to a Tier 2. (Nothing was reported nor sent to me that I had an outstanding balance) Monday July 12: called Transunion because their score was what was pulled that hurt the deal. Transunion said that they show nothing of delinquency on my report AND show no history of it being removed nor it ever being on there in the first place. Evening July 12: called Experian because no other apps were showing a tier 3 credit score. They also said they had no history of it ever being on my report. (Talked to about five differnent people) They put me on a callback list to speak to a supervisor. Associate had said supervisor was in a meeting and would call back. July 13: Called Experian again to figure what happened. Received notifications that my credit score had increased 66 points and delinquency was removed notifications on Experian app. (No certainty that it was removed from report because they said there’s nothing bad on my report. I guess I take their word for it??) Evening July 13: received a notifications from credit apps that Toyota Motor Credit has reported positive activity on a outstanding loan balance. Loan paid. July 14: Called TFS to request document to cross reference dates. July 16: Called TFS to speak to Toyota Motor Credit. Turns out there’s no one to speak to in that department. It’s the same as calling TFS. Called Experian again to ask why they are just now reflecting on my credit that I had an outstanding balance that was just closed on July 13 not what TFS sent which states that it was closed in June 12. Experian had told me that the account was closed in June but when I explained to them that’s not what I’m seeing in my emails and notifications, they became combative and hung up on me. No one can tell me how and why on July 9, a inaccurate mistake cost me money and no one can send me my credit report to verify that there’s no delinquency. TFS agree that someone dropped the ball (but not them) and is willing to send any and all reports they have on my accounts. All credit bureaus has yet to send me to any documentation of removal of alleged delinquency and I will never know what happen on July 9th that cost me money. I’m paying more than I should and I could’ve been out of $1k(nonrefundable deposit to order vehicle) because I will not sign a tier 3 deal. Who knows how long I would’ve been without a car in this market if that were true.

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone had some advice regarding the following: I recently pulled our credit and Ally Financial is showing a charge off (CO) in the amount of $997.77 for a Chevy Volt lease we had back in 2013. The amount was written off sometime in 2020 and we were sent a Form 1099-C. I spoke with Ally Financial today and was told the charges were for excess wear and tear - it was our understanding that when we returned the car this was being taken care of by the dealer - we turned the car in a month or two early with low miles and some equity in it and leased another Volt from the same dealer. The rep from Ally that I spoke with today said that even if I wanted to do a PFD I couldn't because our balance is showing as $0.00. Sooooo… based on the above and the below example of how the account is showing on our Experian CR, what do you guys suggest we do to clean this up??? Any help, advice, guidance would be greatly appreciated. THANK YOU in advance! This is how it's showing on our Experian Report: Account Name: ALLY FINANCIAL Account Number: ######XXXXXX Account Type: Auto Lease Responsibility: Joint with XXXXX Date Opened: 5/30/2013 Status: Paid in settlement. $998 written off. Status Updated: Aug 2020 Balance: - Balance Updated: - Recent Payment: - Monthly Payment: $0 Original Balance: $13,065 Highest Balance: $0 Terms: 36 Months On Record Until: May 2024 Payment History: Current on payments from August 2014 thru July 2017, then it shows CO (Charge-off) from August 2017 thru July 2020, and finally it shows CLS (Closed) August 2020.

Long story short, have an old judgement, that while it isn't showing on my credit reports, shows up as public record when the mortgage company pulled my credit. I have to get it paid/settled/removed in order for them to approve my mortgage loan. How can I best protect my assets while I try and settle with them? So far I have been able to fly under their radar as I am self employed, have a different bank account and don't have any auto loans. I know since the judgement they have tried to get information in court from companies I have done contract work for, so I know they are diligently trying to garnish wages from me. How can I protect my bank account while I am in contact with them to settle the judgement and get it taken care of?

I had an accident earlier this year, car was totaled, insurance paid capital one, and there was a portion I still owed ($4K) to Cap 1 on the loan due to being upside down. I called Cap 1, made payment arrangements, made my payments on auto pay. I went to apply for a car loan a couple weeks ago and bank said I had a charge off from Cap 1.. I logged in an see the account has a zero balance, and asking to contact them. I am about to call them, but my score just dropped significantly. Any suggestions on how to remedy this? I can just pay it off, but there was no warning from them that it would be charged off if I went with the “making payments” option. Thoughts?

I have Ex 710 but my TU and EQ are crap. My driving record is clean and I'm over 40, my rate should be low but amfam is using my TU score and thus my premium is nuts. When I called a person working in my agent's office she said they draw from all of them which I know is not true because I just got a letter from my insurance company saying that they had just pulled me on TU to rate me. So rather than call all over the countryside and get the same answer from people because they don't know what I'm really asking or they don't actually know the information I'm looking for, I'm asking here because this is where the experts are. What auto insurance company pulls Experian? Thanks

So, in my line of work, I often come across customers and try to give a nudge in the right direction towards keeping good credit and how to do so One such client got all credit cards cleared but one now (Which they're working on) but has a massive hurdle in the form of a car loan from good ol' JD Byrider (A pox upon their name). They have a 2007 Chevy Impala with over 100,000 miles...and owe about 22,000 on it still, generously speaking worth 2-4k private sale. Even on a pure electric vehicle lease, I can't eat that negative equity in a payment they can afford, and their credit isn't up to the point yet they can clear the massive back-end of it with a solid loan. (Hospital negative they're working on where the husband was hit in an accident, the other person's insurance paid all the bills but one, that one is on his reports) But that's the only negative on his, just very recent, his FICO 08 was a 625 at time of pull..but the LTV prohibits a refinance of the vehicle. Their finance company through JD Byrider (Pox again upon their name) was Regional Acceptance, appears to be a rate of about 26.4%...and the 6 years will come due in a year and a half. With a $280/mo payment, that obviously wouldn't clear it, and they have no idea where their bill of sale/lending contract is. I advised them to call the company and see if they can get that...but do any of you know offhead since I don't deal with Regional if they do balloon loans on vehicles for JD and the like? As I don't see that balance just vanishing at the end of contract. And what would be their best bet at this piont? I'm thinking I'd try to have them get a card, and lift some of that debt from car to 0% offers if they can get enough on it ,then a personal loan for the remainder to escape RA's clutches? Thoughts welcome, because that one is a boggle to me.

Utilization Consolidation Optimization only using EX HELP! Scores EQ538 TU587 EX638 Amex blue 10K / 4K bal Amex Every 10K / 7500 bal BOA Alaska Air 4500/ 3900 bal DISC 6300/ 4200 bal BECU 2K/ 1500 bal Cap 1 800/ 0 bal CITI 1K/0 bal Credit one 950/ 0 bal First Premier 1K / 0 bal First Premier 400/ 0 bal Student loan 9500/ 9270 bal I was at 690-710 on my scores then loaded my cards, killing my scores from over utilization. Along the way I was dealing with a federal agency penalty which before it got through with the appeal/contesting/adjudication the person I was dealing with retired, and the division of the agency closed now sending all penalties directly to Treasury. Soooo Treasury’s Bureau Of Fiscal Service is the taxpayers collection agency and they are tough. Sent me a notice of intent to garnish me (they can only take 15% after tax) and hit EQ and TU with a 40K collection! One of the listings said the account start date was 01/01/0001 that’s 1000 years before the crusades. So my credit repair person immediately verify challenges them. They have now come back twice updated with more info and amounts claimed, My insurance will cover part of it and I have a attorney doing the adjudication challenge with Treasury but the process is slow, maybe a year. So even though the debt is not being avoided by me, and hasn’t been confirmed, they are jamming me up on the bureaus. Im trying a third time verification with EQ TU maybe the govt shutdown will help them miss the 60 day window. But I’m dead on those bureaus. I tried my CU but they pulled TU and that’s how I found out about the Treasury listing. HELP: I know my EX score is low from loading up my cards, won’t a consolidation loan get my score back up? EX has 5 inquires 3/18 11/17 11/17 11/17 10/17 I’ve gotten the typical mailing from BestEgg and was about to click the button but waited, wanting more info. Here on Pulls it looks like they only pull EX? I need to figure out how, if it’s possible for me to do this. In the mean time I need to get a car, a person I’ve been working with says the finance person has banks that only pull EX. I have a good job, 70K at it 8 months, went to school last year to get the job. years of credit history, only 3 lates from over two years ago. Qs: 1. Where how to get consolidation loan to put out card fires. 2. Apply for consolidation or car loan first? 3. If I can get more then I need on consolidation should I take it and use extra to pay down balance then it will show less then 100% on my report and now count as bad? 4. Is there any hope I can pull this off? 5. The BestEgg prequalified offer is good only till Jan 9 so time is ASAP crucial, I haven't clicked through on it yet so they haven't run me, and they are emailing me to continue. Thank you for any and all help!!!!!

Hey guys I'm currently looking to get a mortgage loan. In order to do this, I need to do some tinkering. My Credit Score on FICO 8 is in the 770s - 780s. However, FICO 9 shows at 699 from Experian. The reason is that CitiBank has not yet reported it's new balance to the Bureaus. The utilization on CitiBank shows 110%. It's been at least 60 days, and still nothing (even though I closed the balanced to close to 0% on each statement). They're being quite the inconvenience currently with their delays. Any suggestions? What can I do? This FICO score is really hurting me. I need to expedite this, and make CitiBank report last month's closing balance. As it's holding me back from loans I need.

We went to a dealership to purchase a car on Nov 10 2018 my daughter signed for the loan on her own." I10 Auto" finacing guy told me First Credit union offers first time buyers program but I may need to co-sign. On Nov 13 I called the dealer to find out on the status of the loan. Someone at the dealer said everything may be ok if we didnt hear anything so I assumed everything was ok. On Nov 21 2018 received a counter offer IAO $xxxxx=xxxxxxx frontends +xxxx backends (GAP & Warranty only) for 60 months due to LTV not within CU lending policy. I called First Credit Union they advised to talk to the dealer. I emailed the Salesperson and the financing guy at the dealer to have an explanation on the counter offer. Salesperson responded that I may need to Co-sign she was not sure on the counter offer. Co-signing will make a difference on the LTV? The counter offer is $606.23 less than the contract amount $xxxxxx to be financed. I was looking at the itemization page and the dealer is charging $549 just for the doc fee is this a normal charge? Thanks in advance!

Hey Everyone, I could use some advice. I have two auto loans that I need to refinance. One is for a new work truck that I bought about three months ago. I took the rebate from the dealer with the intention of refinancing after a few months - the standard tier 1 rate was higher than what is offered by my credit union. The truck is in my name and on my personal credit report because putting it in the business name would have not allowed me to take advantage of some of the benefits offered by the dealer. I also have a personal vehicle with a lease that is ending, so I need to roll that into a new loan. This car is more for fun and taking to the track, and I rarely drive it around town. I have a third vehicle, and SUV, that is for personal use. I have ordered a new SUV to replace this one. My plan was to refinance the truck and the car the same day as I took delivery of the new SUV that will replace the current SUV. I figured that was the best way to not freak out my creditors, and that it would minimize the impact on my credit score. Unfortunately, the new SUV has been held up at the port for 5 weeks so far, and the dealer has no clue when it will be released for delivery. I really need to refinance the truck and car now, but I don't want to jeopardize my chance at getting a decent rate on the new SUV when it finally is released for delivery. My EX FICO score is 740 according to Wells Fargo and one of my credit cards. My EQ score is 717 and TU is 688 according to Credit Karma. My EX & TU reports show three medical collections from 2015 that I am in the process of trying to get removed. I have plenty of income to support loans for all three vehicles. So what should I do? Should I refinance the truck and car now, or wait for the new SUV? What will cause the least impact to my scores? Also, would it help to sign up for a credit monitoring service that shows all three FICO scores?

I lost my vehicle last year, someone ran into me. The gap insurance that I had paid off a portion but not all of the loan amount. I was not working, they asked me to pay a $1,000+ balance. I could not. The account has since been charged off. My credit is in the low 400s because of such. How can I remove this charge off?

Hello, I was trying to find out some type of understanding on repossessed vehicles in the state of Virginia. I would like to ask is it legal for a loan company to charge interest on a repossessed auto loan that has been written off as uncollectable? I had a bad health situation last year and we lost our main car. I remember receiving one notice stating that I owed like $5000 but now on my credit it is stating that I owe like $22,000. The vehicle was sold last year in November at a repo auction. It was a new model vehicle in excellent condition and the loan balance at the time of repo was $24000. It doesn’t make since for me to owe $22000 on an auto that was sold for around $15000. Can someone please help me understand this? The loan company was Santander. I live in Virginia and I think they keep pumping up the balance to try and hurt me.

I bought a newer used car on May 18, 2018. The lender is SafeAmerica CU in Pleasanton, CA.. The new car loan posted to my credit reports in June 2018 to Experian and Equifax, but not to TransUnion. This has dinged my credit score on TU because it looks like I don't have an installment loan which hurts my FICO score now that my old car loan was paid off so I have no active installment loans. The CU did not update my payments either on EX or EQ for July that were made on time. Is there any way to get them to add my installment loan to TU and to update my payments with the others? It never occurred to me to ask the lender what credit bureaus do you post to?

Hello, Ok...ok don't laugh at me too hard. I know it sounds crazy but IF....I could pull this off and of course potential ramifications come into play; so let me have it to keep me focused. Scenario--- I have a Santander account at $1800 that was written off and sold to NCB. Both are not scheduled to fall off my credit reports until mid year 2020. The car, well for all argument sake, will run and has a great deal of sentimental value to me (and my daughter). Yes, I know it is a piece of metal that can be replaced. MarvBear has been helping me over in the Automotive section regarding some of the things I was working on getting beater etc. This is my oldest account (over 12 years), so helping my AAOA(correct???), as all my positive tradelines have been created just this year. So, here is where all the IF's come into play (insert some of the Keven Hart's Ok...OKKKKKay....Okkayyyy's in here now lmao). If, the Florida motor vehicle information confirming the title lien is still in Santanders name(again from other post in Automotive); and I want to get the title thus going through Santander ultimately at some point. If I wait till both Santander and NCB fall off my report, I will still want the title and will have to go through this with Santander at some point, correct to get a title? So, I am thinking "IF" I contact Santander and work this deal out---(yes I know good luck) -We agree to a dollar amount of $900.00 (total amount) -This will get NCB removed (part of the agreement-after my first payment is received) -The even bigger IF...request they re-age it and remove all the negative payments (stop laughing now) -even if they don't remove the negative payments, I will end up paying $900.00 and get the title -understanding if they make this as X-amount of payments that I agree to(thus the re-aging) help to get this as paid in full as I do want to purchase a home in the near future--next 1-2 years. -definitely getting this in writing from them I understand this re-aging will put me on the hook for up to another long 7 years of restarting the clock if I sign an agreement with them. I remember some of the situation, where I thought I owed 1 last payment and then all this interest from "no where" came out along with my decline in body/mind unable to work scenario back then...it was a hot mess. At the end of the day, if they said max amount you owe us is $1800(no further interest will accrue--flat out $1800), we will accept payments on this and update it on your credit report (I would have to have the removal of the baddies), with the REMOVAL OF NCB (after first payment or something) and then I get the title; I would do it. I am looking at, I did owe them something and I want the title. Ultimately trying to turn a re-aging into something positive on my oldest AAOA and get the NCB tradeline removed off my credit report to boot. Trying to turn the lemon to lemonade. Ok....smack me around and keep me focused please.

Hello, I am at the point of getting pre-qualified to purchase my home after many years of not having one due to a divorce. My auto loan has hit my report as 30 days late within the last couple of days and it's not. That's 1 and 2 the late paying history is all over the place and not accurate. I would love to get this entry removed from my credit file altogether. I am hoping that you have a good letter that I can send to the bureaus to get this removed. A bit more background. I did work to get this updated to paid as agreed from the company and they said it is verified as accurate. Any help you can offer is greatly appreciated. Many Thanks Viola

So we are looking at getting another’s new truck. Problem is looking at 2017 MY you don’t get all the rebates if you finance with ford motor credit. So so my question is other possible banks to finance with that don’t report to personal like ford, ally etc? we are setup on the personal side with NFCU but not yet for our business. My question is what is the rates for vehicle purchases on the business side and what terms do the go to? We are trying to keep the payment as low as possible and don’t care about stretching it out far as we will pay it off early. I’m also looking at 2018 & 2019 MY just because some dealers are willing to sell cheaper then others plus the rebates. Thanks in advance

if you pay off you loan early who do you get your money back from? the dealer that sold you the car, the bank that held your loan?

Is there a residual valuation guide for current models and model variations of autos? I"m looking to get one last automotive "hurrah" [a high performance car] before I am in the Buick demographic, but I want to get something that holds its' value reasonably well, so if I decide to get rid of it in a few years, I'll get a reasonable amount back. Thanks!

http://www.autodealermonthly.com/channel/finance-office/article/story/2018/07/requiring-buyers-to-buy-service-contracts-read-this.aspx?utm_source=email&utm_medium=enewsletter&utm_campaign=20180728-NL-ADT-Enews-BOBCD180722003&omdt=NL-ADT-Enews&omid=1000693576

I got an auto loan through my dealer with a local credit union last year. I have been offered a job in another state (Alaska) and was wondering if i am allowed to stay with my current loan even though I’m moving? thank you

Credit Application: Your Age? 46 Your Equifax Credit Score? 616 Your Experian Credit Score? 622 Your TransUnion Credit Score? 638 How many years have you been on file with Equifax? 28 How many years have you been on file with Experian? 28 How many years have you been on file with TransUnion? 28 YOUR PREVIOUS AUTOMOTIVE CREDIT HISTORY Do you have an open auto loan? Yes - 36 month loan auto, 36 month motorcycle (both never late) Will this open auto loan be a trade-in? Maybe on 36 month loan How many late pays within the last 12 months on the currently open loan? 0 How many late pays within the last 13-24 months on the currently open loan? 0 Your current open auto loan is financed with? OneMain Your current open auto loan payment is? $315 Estimated amount you may be upside down in this vehicle? $6500 Rate your payment history on this open auto loan from 1-10 (1=poor:10=Best) 10 YOUR REVOLVING CREDIT HISTORY Total number of revolving account(s) you have? 4 Total percentage utilized overall? 42% How many of your revolving accounts are store cards? 0 (does PayPal SmartConnect count? If so, then 1 How many of your revolving accounts are major credit cards? (i.e. Amex, MC, Visa) 3 How many of your revolving accounts are known subprime credit cards (i.e. Aspire, 1st Premier) 1 YOUR PERSONAL INFORMATION How long at your current residence? 15 years Do you Rent or have a Mortgage, or Live w/Relative or Other? Mortgage Your Monthly Rent or Mortgage payment? $760 ($120 is escrow) How long have you held your current job? 18 years Your total provable monthly gross income is? $5723 (mine), $1790 (wife) Your provable monthly gross income is provable via what method? (i.e. computerized paycheck stub, or tax return) Paystub Is there additional monthly income? What amount monthly? No Describe the source. Is the additional monthly income provable? No Spousal income is not applicable. YOUR DOWNPAYMENT Please tell me your exact down payment in cash? (rebates and trade equity are not considered, please input a dollar value only.) $0 Does any credit repository contain any Public Record? Yes If yes, please very briefly describe. CH7 BK 2009 Does any credit repository contain any Collection Account(s)? Yes - Currently 3 medical collection on all three (less than $170 each collection), 2 PRA on all 3. If yes, please very briefly describe. 1 PRA is SOL ($3800), other PRA is $708 Please rate your overall creditworthiness on a scale of 1-10 (1=poor, 10= best) 5 Please rate your Installment credit history on a scale of 1-10 (1=poor, 10=best) 8 Please rate your Revolving credit history on a scale of 1-10 (1=poor, 10=best) 8 Trying to get approval for 2018 Rogue AWD S for $22000. Possible trade-in of 2011 Chevy Cruze.

Good Morning, Yesterday afternoon, my son was in an accident - he rear-ended someone that had stopped in the middle of the road to look at a For Sale sign. Of course, he was charged. Hubby & I just successfully completed a 5 year Chapter 13 and we're just getting started triaging our credit report / attempting to rebuild credit. This car needs to be replaced, but I am concerned about: 1) being approved for an auto loan due to our credit score 2) if we ARE approved by someone, I don't want that company to be on a baddy list AFA looking cruddy on our report (thinking places like rent to own furniture, etc) My mind is telling me 'one thing at a time', but, I'm still torn. Do we go ahead and see what a dealer can do for us? What about those 'We finance everyone' places? Has anyone had experience in getting a reasonably normal auto loan very shortly after Discharge? I. Hate. Credit. It makes my stomach hurt! Any good info/links/etc. appreciated.

I was able to finance my 2. car for 2.99 % with DCU after I sold my car that I had financed with Capital One for 5,5 % and was able to pay of my credit cards which helped me alot with boosting my score. Since my credit score went up to 750 It was real easy to finance with DCU .. instant approval ... all online ... after I chose a car and send them the Purchase agreement, they overnighted the check to me. .. and the best, all with a super low 2.99 % APR ( not an all time low, because I remember them advertising a 1.99 % APR before but I'm still very happy especially since the car is used, and they gave me an option to add a 0 deductible powertrain warranty for just 30 bucks a month. I'm debating if I should refinance my 10,5 % Auto loan ( which I have with Alley) also with DCU, but then I don't know if this would be negative on my credit score since this loan is an ongoing loan with around 2 years of payment history !?