Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Repairing'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Intro & News
    • Please Read Before Posting - NEWBIES START HERE
    • CB gets Press!
    • CreditBoards Success Stories
    • Newbies Section
  • Creditboards Main Forums
    • Credit Forum
    • Medical Billing & Medical Collections
    • Bankruptcy
    • Foreclosures/Loan Modifications
    • Chexsystems Help
    • Debt Consolidation, Counseling and Management
    • Military Credit
    • Canadian Credit
  • Financing
    • Mortgages
    • Automotive Financing
    • Student Loans
    • Business Credit
  • Money Management
    • Money Management
  • Special Topics
    • VISA MC policies
  • Resources
    • Laws Laws Laws
    • Where can I Find?
    • CaseLaw
    • State Laws
    • Debt Collector Hall of Shame
    • Identity Theft
    • CreditPulls Database
    • Databases and Reference
    • Sample Letters
  • Misc.
    • General Discussion

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



Website URL






Found 757 results

  1. So back in 2008 I cosigned a US Department of Education PLUS student loan for my mother, (it was taken out for my sister not me) that later went 120 days delinquent in 2013. Since then the loan has been consolidated and transferred to another provider, but the negative 120 day item is still showing up on my Equifax and TU credit reports and is lowering my score. I cosigned the loan during a time in which I was hospitalized and my mom took advantage of that, but that's a different story. I don't want to bring up issues of fraud or anything, but is there another way that I could possibly get the item removed? Why is it still reporting all these years later even after the loan has been transferred to another provider? I sincerely appreciate any help on this as I'm trying to buy my first home and this could be a detriment.
  2. Back in April of 2018, I paid off a $2,000 dept to Bank of America and I believed I was officially cleared of any debts. Now it's September of 2018 and I decided to check my credit score and noticed it was a lot lower! Noticed the reports all came from Bank of America and I contacted them regarding the issue. They specifically told me I had a $36 debt that was not paid since when I paid off my debt to $0. Confused and inexperienced of knowledge about credit cards and how they worked, I paid the $36.00 and told them to close my bank so this does not happen again. 2 days later, I received a confirmation email that my account was closed. Thought it was over? Nope. Now it's November and I decided to check on my score.. noticed that my score went down again! And of course, the problem was Bank of America again. Contacted them once more and they told me that there is a charge of $38 on my account that needs to be paid. I told them I paid it and have the receipt to email if needed. They told me that they had ZERO record of payment nor notifications that my account was closed. Note, when I called them in September, I contacted them through their mobile app as I always do, to prove that it was actually their number I called. What should I do? Who should I contact to fix this? I'm a college student that is trying to better my score before I graduate. Thank you.
  3. Hello, So, I have two 30-day late payments on my Capital One Credit Cards (one on each card) from Nov 2017. Before I left on military orders on September of 2017 for training, I called them and told them I was being deployed and wanted to try and pay the annual fee a few months in advance, so I wouldn’t have any late payments since I wouldn’t have any contact with the outside world for literally 9 whole months. They said they don’t charge military members the annual fee, and they would waive it for me. After getting back on May of 2018, I pulled my credit report and saw I had 1 missed payment reported on each card. And I’m still confused to this day why. I thought it was probably just a mistake, and I was accidentally charged the annual fees. So I called them, and they said it was from some pending charges as well. I remember leaving with no balance though, and some of the charges don’t seem too familiar to me. Especially one place that I don’t think I’ve ever even been too. My memory is a little foggy though, since it was last year. Even to this day, and being with Capital One for years, I’ve never missed a payment. That is the only time to this day that’s happened. After calling several times, they said I could mail in a credit dispute with the description of the situation and how I’d like it resolved. I was going to mail in this letter (down below) along with my military orders, and the credit reports of the dates the late payments were reported. I’m hoping to be able to get this removed, as it’s affecting me of getting a better interest rate on a loan I’ve been shopping for. Any thoughts or suggestions? https://imgur.com/a/KemMr0r
  4. Hi guys I am newer to this forum and have been reading up on some topics for a while. However there is so much information I am a little lost. I am trying remove some of my collection accounts from my credit score which is currently low 500. I would like to fix up my credit to better myself. I have collections accounts posted with three companies 1) One is with Portfolio for sync bank. I disputed it previously on my report but that didnt work. I set up payment with the company and gave them my information. I have made 2 payments so far but have a year to pay them. It is too late to ask for a delete after payment is finished? Should I continue to pay them. They served me papers so instead of going to court i decided to pay. The account is a little over a year old. 2)The second is a comcast bill sent to colllections. The comcast bill is about 2 years now. I havent contacted them on this one. 3)The third is a sprint bill placed in collections as well. I havent contacted anyone or filed any disputes. 4) I also received a bill florida red light ticket from January 2017. Should I pay it before it shows up on my report? Should I dispute it? I am in Maryland by the way I would really like some advice on what steps to take. I am in a better financial situation now and would really like to improve my score. Any help is appreciated.
  5. Well. I have another, 5,000-word thread to post about my latest mental health misadventures, but the long and short of it for this here post is, I've got a 30-day late reporting. I coulda sworn I had paid my Express account down to zero (obviously that's what I thought; not bothering to log in and pay it) and...well, here we are. My score went down by FIFTY points!! I have a feeling my next move should be... to pay the darn thing. (Daring gambit, no? The only other baddies I've ever had were collections, so withholding payment with the hope of doing a PFD is my go-to credit-repair move. There is no way this logic effectively transfers to fighting past-due tradelines, but - as was hinted at in the opening sentence - my brain is broken (again). So... what's my next move? Is there no hope of having the baddie cleaned off; just pay it now and be sanguine about it? If so, how long till my score recovers? Any input/help/advice greatly appreciated.
  6. I have two accounts in collections. This is my largest one. I think if it came off my report I would have a jump in my score. I have not recently received any paperwork from PRA Account name PORTFOLIO RECOVERY ASSOCIATES Account number <removed> Recent balance $5,148 as of 10/27/2018 Date opened 10/2016 Status Collection account. $5,148 past due as of Oct 2018. Original creditor CAPITAL ONE BANK USA N.A. Type Debt Buyer Terms 1 Months On record until Aug 2021 Credit limit or original amount $5,148 High balance $0 Monthly payment $0 Recent payment amount $0 Date of status 12/2016 First reported 01/2017 Responsibility Individual Comment Completed investigation of FCRA dispute - consumer disagrees
  7. First off thanks in advance to all. Instead of making multiple threads, I will post my questions. question 1 If we have previously disputed account online, can we send in MOV letter by mail? Or should I dispute again by mail and have paper trail before sending MOV letter? question 2 If an account gets deleted, what happens if the next month the creditor reports the account again? Will it get re-inserted? question 3 Can a creditor stop reporting and have an account parked on your report? question 4 When sending a debt validation letter; can we just write down last door of ss number for security reasons? question 5 If one credit bearu deletes an account, can I use that proof to get another bearu to delete account? question 6 If an account is yours, but it’s reporting inaccurate; what violations can you use against a bearu to delete even if they know it is yours? Sorry if thread is long, I just want to make one thread instead of multiple threads.
  8. Basically, I'm wondering if it's worth it to pay collections if they don't accept my pay for delete offer to pay the entire bill. How will my score be affected if I pay it? Collections said the status would become paid in full. I'm dealing with Frontier communications (isp) and Credit Control Corp. Corp claims they are a 3rd party and that they do not ever sell the debt and that they're not exactly a collections agency. But they're the one's who reported a past due bill on to 2 of my 3 credit beaurues accounts. And everyone I've talked to there claim that their policy is to never ever delete anything. I asked what if someone is innocent, and their response was that it doesn't "ruin" their credit. These are the steps I've taken: Got fresh copy of all 3 credit reports Requested removal from experian (deleted) and equifax (not deleted) Requested proof of debt twice (they claimed they sent it twice, but I looked pretty diligently for it) Talked to 4 different reps and 1 supervisor, left voicemail for 2 other supervisors but never got a call back. Recorded most conversations and stated I was recording. Sent a pay for delete letter stating I'd pay the whole thing in exchange for deletion and that my offer is valid for 15 days.
  9. Has anyone had any success with Kohl's & Macy's goodwill letters? I just started helping a relative with her credit and she has 2 late payments to Macy's 15 months ago and 1 late payment to Kohl's LAST MONTH. Other than the above items and high utilization the rest of her reports are clean. Any suggestions? TIA
  10. I have an old closed/paid bank account that went derogatory back in 2012. This is my oldest account that was opened in 1999. Should I dispute the account as too old or try to dispute as never late to get the old late payments deleted? It hasn't been updated since 06/17 on EQ and 11/12 on EX and TU. 30: 09/12 60: 03/12, 04/12 90: 05/12, 06/12 Or since these will roll off within the next 12 months, should I just sit tight and let them age off? Is the value of the old closed account worth it? Thanks!
  11. I'm a newbie! I've learned quite a bit here. Over the last 3 years I've been really successfully at repairing my credit. We're planning to buy a house in 6 months and I really want the last two negative items off my credit report. 1) Is AT&T DirectTV. It's possible I didn't pay way back in 2008. But It says 2017. I absolutely 100% have not had any DirectTV in the last 5 years. I think they may have updated it when I disputed it via Experian online before? 2) Rash & Curtis. I was in the ER in 2008. But It's update to 2013. It's like they are trying to keep it on my file. I'm a bit overwhelmed to work on these last two items myself. Is there anyone recommend on the forums that I can pay to assist me? I didn't see any credit repair services listed here. I feel like at this point I'd rather pay an expert/professional to help me. Thanks everyone! Here's a screenshot.
  12. Hi, Just signed up recently after finding the boards through good ol' Google. I'll go find the introduction areas and do my profile style setup in a bit, but my original purpose for coming here is helping my roommate with some credit issues in her rebuilding process. The information I've read here has been immensely enlightening thus far, and I hope to continue to learn and help people with the knowledge. It inspires me to look into seeing about getting perhaps some CLIs for myself also. But I'll make a new topic when I go about that and read up on recommended ways. So for brief starters, her credit scores are (Per Credit Karma) a 427 on TU, and 454 on EQ. Main derogs are Dept of Ed/Navient with student loans, which she said at one point were reporting deferrals, but somewhere, only the last semester was deferring, the rest started reporting independently. I haven't found anything about those here or how they should be dealt with if there's a way at all? There are several medical issues on her reports as well, which I'm working with her currently to triage. Filed her opt-outs online on June 27th, 2017, so giving that a couple weeks to take before trying to get a lot of wrong and old addresses removed from the CRAs also. One of her reports (EXP) we had to mail off to receive as they couldn't identify her online. As said, we're at the point of waiting the couple weeks for the "Opt-Out" to take. I've bookmarked WhyChat's HIPPA section in case we have to resolve those that way. Some of the medical bills she thinks are legitimate and some she doesn't recognize at all. So any advice on paths to proceed after the unrecognized and illegitimate address removed, or in general is welcomed. Thank you all for such a wonderful forum, and in advance for any aid! Regards, Zan
  13. I haven't been on here in a couple of years but I have always held fond memories of the help and success I achieved when I used some of the information I found here on CB. I am now married to a man that is a true team player and we are trying to build the rest of our life. I was in an accident 3 months ago and because of the injury our income took a major hit and with that our credit. I do not know where to start to fix this. We want to start building our forever home next year and restart our trucking company but with the hits our credit is taking I don't think it will be possible short of some miracle. Does anyone have any advice or pointers? Any help is greatly appreciated...
  14. Everybody says it is hard to delete from Experian. But I'm having a heck of a time deleting old addresses from equifax. I've tried online and via paper method with no results. In fact, in order to log in to view my results, they make he check that I haven't lived in my home for more than 2 years and then list one of the disputed addresses - otherwise, they won't even let me log in. What is my best course of action?
  15. Hello, I had a Sears/Citibank account deleted from all 3 credit bureaus. Eventually, it reappeared under a Collectors called Midland Funding yet it's the exact account that the bureaus deleted. I tried sending them a copy of the deletion telling them it's the same account but they didn't remove it. I was wondering if you can guide me on how to solve this... I sent a letter to the collector too but you know how they are. I just don't want to be wasting my money on certified mail and notarizing for nothing. How to make sure that a deleted account doesn't reappear again once it was successfully disputed and removed from all credit reports.
  16. I realize it's suggested to order a fresh credit report directly from the credit bureau for a dispute. My question is would a free credit report from Annual Credit Report (reccomended by Bureau of Consumer Protection) be as accurate as a credit report obtained directly from the CRA?
  17. Folks, you have 2 choices: You can either sit there wondering why other people have what they have and can do what they can do, while you don't and can't, OR you can learn how to get what they have. I chose the latter. Here's my testimony: 10 months ago, my credit was so bad and scores were so low, I couldn't even borrow from myself (joke). I watched my brother fix up his and his wife's credit 15 years ago. Since then, they bought 2 homes, 1 in Baltimore and 1 in Pittsburgh. He was telling me that he was at the point where he could walk into any dealership and walk out with a new car, just like that, with no money down. I admit, I was kinda jealous of that. ME ON THE OTHER HAND, I remember one time coming home from driving over the road and trying to rent a car (with cash) for the weekend, and I couldn't because they required a credit card, which nobody in their right mind would ever give me. I was actually delusional enough to apply for a credit card. I'm surprised they didn't call the cops on me! 😂 I remember having to pay a huge deposit just to get a cell phone. 4 months after making a decision to fix my broken credit report, starting a credit repair program, learning the laws that govern debt collection practices, actually doing the work myself, as oppose to hiring some lame credit repair company (*caugh* Lexington Law) who just wants to make money off my misery, and learning how credit works, my credit scores went up nearly 200 points. My credit never looked this good in my life! Now, I'm getting approved for everything I couldn't before. All because I made a decision. Stop making excuses and start making that decision. Go get that house, car, loan, vacation, whatever it is you want or need that you think you can't.
  18. I used to lurk this forum for advice. I had my scores hovering around 700 when I lost my job and had two hospital stays. I kept my head in the sand for a few years until I got brave and ordered my paper reports. After triaging them, I realized that things were not as hopeless as I'd feared. This time I am being sensible. I'm not apping for crap cards or just any store card that will approve me, and I am certainly not carrying a balance on any of my cards. If I hadn't had high balances on so many cards before, I would have been fine. This time I'm focusing on cards that will actually benefit me, and getting fewer of them. I currently have five cards and a car loan. I'm wondering: would it serve any purpose to take out a rebuilder loan at my credit union, or just let these cards age? Also, would it be wise to wait one more year before disputing my three remaining medical accounts? They are currently three years old and my state's SOL is four years. I don't want to invite a lawsuit. Thank you for any advice.
  19. Hi all -- I'm new and happy to be here. Having already arbitrated with a P-to-P lender via JAMS and received a deletion and cash settlement, I am now ready to take on USAA. The issues are procedural (failure to report account as disputed to CRAs during lengthy direct dispute process) as well as substantive (duplicate account reporting for several months, inexplicably verified by EX and OC). My questions are these: When preparing the Demand for Arbitration for JAMS, is it best to include Experian as an additional defendant, or to arbitrate with them separately if necessary? I believe their TOS requires use of AAA. Does anyone have experience arbitrating with USAA? My inclination is that they will not settle as quickly as the P-to-P lender, who required some fight from me, but not all-out war. USAA seems like a different story. Note: I know that USAA uses AAA as the arbitration forum for credit card accounts, but I have a USAA FSB agreement that references JAMS, and the result letters USAA sent me all specifically come from USAA FSB, not the credit card operation.
  20. Hello forum; 2 unauthorized inquiries on my wife’s Experian report. Someone stole her social security number years ago, and applies for credit every now and then. I’m ask her to file a police report. Do we just dispute the inquiries, what if they don’t want to delete them? I’m place an alert on her file, thanks in advance.
  21. I have had these two accounts our of SOL over 4 years, I tried in the past to get them removed not owing the money and they refuse especially since it is now out of SOL. All they do is send all these statements but nothing to ever really prove its mine. Anyway now talking with Equifax they are reporting these SOL accounts as 180 past due.. they are not recorded as collections but accounts now past due.. How can this be fixed?
  22. I’m a 40-year old salamander who spent the last ten years screwing up his finances and credit. No excuses. I did this. I started writing this by giving a ton of details and background, but its way to long. I’m summarizing, but if anyone is wondering how someone got themselves into this mess, let me know and I’ll be happy to share. Let’s start with this year. Jan 2018: Open the year rocking impressive low 500 FAKOs, but I had a plan, and I had executed it for six months. 1) Pay stuff on time to stop more derogs from hitting my reports 2) cut back on my spending 3) stop being an salamander. I bring home about $70K annually yet constantly wonder why I'm in the predicament I'm in. I slashed my budget to the bone and faced all of my delinquent accounts. I was able to make arrangements (some better than others) with open accounts and threw as much money at them as possible. Apr 2018: Delinquent Fed and State taxes paid in full, my car note was caught up and showed current for the first time in over a year. I started using various free services to track FAKOs, and monitor my reports. I successfully DV’ed and booted a couple CA/JDB accounts that had been “erroneously” re-aged and popped up. FAKOs were moving in the right direction, but wanted more. May 2018: I pulled my official annual reports. All my remaining charge-offs had stayed with the OC’s and were within SoL. JDB’s and CA’s removed. Public records and tax liens were gone also! Only 2 hard pulls in the past two years. Ugh, but the lates!! So MANY lates!! In seven years, I had managed to rack up 118 late payments! Is that a record? I think it might be! 43 of them are 4+ years old 73 between 2016 and 2017 2 were from the beginning of this year while I was in the “catch-up” program on my car. So yeah, 35% to 50% on time payment depending on which report you look at. Absolutely mortifying. Jun 2018: I decided to budget in three or four months for a myFICO subscription while I actively addressed my reports. I had made some progress from the beginning of the year: EQ 587 up from 490 EX 604 up from 550 TU 604 up from 590 Utilization oddly showed it was 160% over available credit. How’s that? A little research revealed the current balance and credit limit of the charge-off accounts were contributing to my utilization. That’s 30% of my score. I can do something about that! 1) Pay the OC’s in exchange for at least a “Paid In Full” status 2) Continue paying all accounts on time 3) Continue the never ending quest to stop being an salamander. July 2018: … and here’s how things stand now: FICOs the same except for TU, which jumped from 604 to 613 apparently due to balance decreases and account improvements. Mortgage (Modified) - $120K – 12 months on-time payments / Pays account as agreed / Loan modified non-gov’t in comments / 10 lates within 2 years Car Note - $11K – 6 months on-time payments / Pays account as agreed / 20 lates within 2 years Student Loans (Consolidated) - $84K – 1 on-time payment/ Pays account as agreed / 0 lates AMEX - $1000 Charged Off / $500 limit – PAID IN FULL Capital One - $1500 Charged Off / $1000 limit – PAID IN FULL / Pulled back from CA Capital One - $1000 Charged Off / $750 limit – PAID IN FULL / Pulled back from CA Kohls/Capital One - $500 Charged Off / $350 limit: Will be paying it off today or tomorrow. AT&T - $500 Charged Off / not reporting: Will be paying it off today or tomorrow. Divorce Settlement - $10K / not reporting: Lump sum payment this week. Est Remaining Debt Starting Aug 2018 - $215K Once the dust settles, I’ll see what the scores and reports look like in a couple months. My plan is to go for two secured cards (probably Discover IT and Bank of America) and I was invited to enter the AMEX Optima program. I’ve lived on a cash basis for the past two years and I’m not changing that mindset. The only difference is I’ll be using the cards and paying everything off mid cycle prior to the corresponding bureau reporting dates and statement closing dates. I don’t expect everything to smell like roses tomorrow, or next week, or next month, or next year. It took about ten years to dig this hole. Why should I expect a 30 day fix? What I am grateful for is finding the discipline and motivation to climb out. I owe much of that to you folks. Thank you for sharing your stories, tears, frustrations, and joys. Your experiences have given me a framework to build my own plan. I hope to pay that back to this community with my ongoing story already in progress. - round2forme
  23. I have a CO loan that hasnt been updated since 2/2015 DOFD is 10/2013 The CA is JH Portfolio. I haven't heard anything from them in 2 or 3 years but they update monthly. Any ideas on how to get the OC deleted?
  24. My scores are 578 EX, 545 TU, 600 EQ with 1 paid charge off/3 paid collection accounts/3 unpaid accounts/ 1 $5k secured card (6mo)/2 authorized user accounts ($8k & 27k) and 4 inquiries. I would love some advice on how to proceed to get my scores higher. Should I pay off or settle my 3 unpaid accounts? they total $22k. Please advise
  25. First, Happy Saturday All!!! I hope I have placed the topic in the correct forum. Hi, I respect the opinions of the people here on credit boards and I really need some advice. I have my 2017 tax debt that Im paying on right now. It was $4400 and it is now down to about $3800. I am also $17, 840.60 in credit card debt. I am currently out of work on disability. My fixed income has allowed me to make my credit card payments on time and also keep up my payment plan for paying off my tax debt. I am married and my husband does work and he is paying some of the tax debt but he and I do not pay each other’s credit card bills. This money that I am coming to is personal money that I will not have to pay income tax on. I am going to receive $11, 700. My immediate thought was to pay my tax debt off straight away. And his is most likely what I will be doing. Now I will be left with about $8000. Here is the breakdown of my credit card debt. How should I allocate this 8K. My debt to income ratio will improve by 8 k no matter how I allocate the money but I need my credit score to go up. Amex - $5000 Limit, $4947.74 Balance (maxed) 20.99% interest BCU - $5000 Limit, $4923.51 Balance (maxed) 16.5 % Chase - $3000 Limit, $2783.96 Balance (Maxed) 0% until 10/6/18 then 25.49% Macys - $2700 Limit, $2200 Balance, 26.99% Walmart - $1780 Limit, $1679.39 Balance, 24.65% Citi - $900 Limit, $649.25 Balance, no interest until 4/11/19 Cap One - $600 Limit, $515 Balance, 24.65 % JC Penny - $500 Limit, $100 Balancce, high interest Gap - $200 Limit, $35 balance, high Interest HOW SHOULD I ALLOCATE? I want everyone who reads this to know that I will not pay down my debt just to spend on these cards again. I have learned my lesson and I want financial freedom more that I want “things” at this point in my life. Thank you so very much for your advice on this.

About Us

Since 2003, creditboards.com has helped thousands of people repair their credit, force abusive collection agents to follow the law, ensure proper reporting by credit reporting agencies, and provided financial education to help avoid the pitfalls that can lead to negative tradelines.
  • Create New...

Important Information