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Can anyone tell me the secret to remove three accounts of my experian report, They are CFCU GMAC and JARED I also have GMAC on my transunion report what Can I do to get them off very quickly so I can buy a home. Can any one help me

Today I pulled my 3 bureau Report from Credit Check Total and just a few days ago my scores were 10 points below what they are now, they've increased in just a few days without anything changing. what could be the reasoning? Or does it take a minute for the scores to update after Collections drop off

I have five collections left to remove on my Experian report one still in dispute, hopefully it gets removed. What can i do ? one collection account is at a small amount so I'm going to pay up, another is set to drop off with-in the next few months. Credit board - What can i do to remove the the other 2 Baddies. HELP! ! Lobel Financial (Car) BALANCE $6,235 Set to drop off In 2020 USA DISCOUNTER CREDIT (Electronics) - BALANCE $1460 set to drop off 2019

Hello, I have been lurking on this forum a while and have learned a ton about cleaning up credit issues. I was hoping I could ask a few questions as I wanted to see if people agree with my reasoning. My scores currently range from 560 to 580 and as it stands I have one credit card from Capital One with a $2,300 limit and zero balance. They started me at $300 and bumped it up a few months ago. They have offered me auto financing as well which I may use as it's time for me to get a new vehicle as well. Does anyone know if they report to the bureaus for auto loans? The past marks on my report are not as clean due to a few layoffs and frankly just not handling thing correctly. I have sent a validation letter to most and received some responses. Any thoughts on how to move forward would be greatly appreciated. My thought would be to start with verification letters to the bureaus, can these be completed online? Another common suggestion is getting old addresses removed from your report. Would you do the same with old employment? Experian lists one of my old jobs and I am not sure it fthis makes any sense to remove. I would have used it as employment on an application for a few of the accounts below. Negative accounts are as follows: Creditor Citi 1 Citi 2 Chase Listed At All All All Date Opened 3/1/2007 12/1/2004 1/1/2006 Date of Delinquent 5/1/2012 5/1/2012 4/1/2012 Status Updated 8/10/2015 8/6/2015 6/29/2015 Rev or Instal Revolving Revolving Revolving Payment Status Late/Charge-off/Collection Late/Charge-off/Collection Late/Charge-off/Collection Limit/Original 10,800.00 4,560.00 8,100.00 Balance 11,803.00 3,173.00 9,333.00 Open/Closed Closed Closed Closed Utilization 109% 70% 115% Citi 1 responded to my validation letter with a First USA Internet Application (one page with some data on my account) and sending a copy of my statements. Citi 2 has agreed to a settlement which I am now seeing I shouldn't have done, it will lead to a "paid settled for less" which isn't a good thing. This was agreed to with a collection company called ARS and I have two payments remaining. Should I offer a single payment for slightly more with the stipulation of removal from my report? Chase sent a letter stating their information is correct and they have sent an update to the bureaus and of course statements as well. Creditor Discover Lending Club Security Crecit Svcs Listed At All All EQ, EX Date Opened 8/1/2006 3/1/2011 4/1/2013 Date of Delinquent 1/1/2013 4/1/2013 Status Updated 7/21/2015 8/31/2014 5/28/2015 Rev or Instal Revolving Installment Collection Payment Status Settlement/Paid for Less Late/Charge-off/Collection Late/Collection Limit/Original 8,000.00 16,000.00 12,522.00 Balance - 12,372.00 12,522.00 Open/Closed Closed Closed Closed Utilization 0% 77% 100% I stupidly had made a deal with Discover as well that didn't lead to removal of the negative marks. Should I send them a goodwill letter in hopes they will delete the mark? It seems a bit tougher with OCs from what I have read, any thoughts would be great. Security Credit Services is a collection account for Lending Club. They send a borrower agreement as a show of validation. It was over 30 days and none of these show my account in dispute. Has anyone pushed that angle with success? Thanks ahead of time for the help on my questions, I now have stable employment and am looking to clean up my debt/credit situation as best as possible. The beginner section and PsychDoc tutorials were a great intro but any thoughts from the great people here would certainly help my planning.

I Have to give it to the American people here on CB! ... Wow, i didn't think it would happen so fast, but my progress in my rebuild is moving fairly quick! Equifax is most likely the easist to have Collections accounts removed.. Or the Credit Burea really likes me! In the past two weeks from Equifax alone, I've removed 6 Collections out of 8, Two still pending.... But Experian plays hardball, but it's nothin! I have the best information from the best fourm CB Experian in the last week has removed a total of 4 out of 9, with one still pending. The other 4 still working up a master plan! Unfortunately Transunion doesn't work like the other two Credit Bureas, gotta wait until the 30 day mark to see what was removed. How can I upload photos ?? ANYONE

I got in the mail today after 37 months of having a sad $400 CL (don't judge) with a Wal-Mart store card a letter saying in 65 days (unless I say no) I will be converted to a Wal-Mart MasterCard. My question is should I convert or not based on my current situation outlined below? My credit profile is as thin as a crack whore and I've been gardening for almost 7 years. I get out of credit jail next year when I will be 100% baddy free. As of 9/1/15... My Oldest Account: 11 Years, 8 Months My Average Age of Accounts (AAOA): 7 Years, 7 Months Transunion score around 700 and no bankos, foreclosures, evictions, tax liens, judgments, etc. Only 5 collections/charge-offs that all fall off in 2016 or later this year with credit repair I'm in. My current open accounts.... 2-Cap1 cards $3,400 and $1,750 CLI (8 months since I got an auto and manual CLI from both Cap1 cards) 1-Walmart store card $400 CL 1-Amazon store card $1,000 CL 1-luxury SUV loan (almost paid off) ============================ I only have 5 open accounts and this screenshot below shows my current old accounts breakdown ==> http://s27.postimg.org/a1g7wt07n/screen_2015_08_28_16_25_06.jpg My feeling is I should convert to a MasterCard because they'll close my existing Wal-Mart store card with 37 months of perfect payment history and give me a second CC line to show on my reports instead of just one line reporting. Plus, I would highly prefer a real CC over a Wally World one. But I'm a little worried about my AAOA taking a hit. Also before my deadline of Oct 9th when I would need call to cancel the conversion I'm going to call the UW for Wal-Mart and Amazon and ask for huge CLI's. My second question is should I call the UW back to back (Like call for Amazon finish and then call back for Wal-Mart) or wait a few hours or days between asking for a CLI and should I call to get an Amazon CLI with the higher limit first or Wal-Mart first? Amazon store card I've had for 37 months as well and with both I've NEVER asked for a CLI before because my credit scores sucked. Thanks for any and all help.

Hi All, I had an auto loan with Chase Auto from 10/2010 - 12/2013 when it was paid off. During the duration of the loan, I had 3 job changes (laid off from two and the last job has remained to this day). Because of the tumultuous time, I had incurred several 30 day lates and a 60 day late during the course of the loan. Earlier this year, I mailed out a GW letter to delete the lates and they responded that they're unable to do it since it's reporting correctly. My next possible move is to ask them to delete the entire tradeline from all 3 bureaus. Their reason to not delete the lates was because they're reporting correctly so I figure then why not ask them to just delete the entire tradeline? Then they're not asked to report anything false. I know this may hurt my overall credit since it deletes a long standing installment loan but I have since opened 2 other installment loans with good standing (0 lates since). I also have several installment loans before that loan that were paid off but those are 10+ year ago. So do I attempt to have them delete the tradeline? ...and if so, does anybody have a letter for deleting an entire tradeline? ..or do I try to have them delete the lates from that acount again? There are quite a bit so I'm thinking I have a better chance of having them delete the entire tradeline. Any input appreciated. I've worked hard to clean everything up and this is the only wart remaining.

I found CB about a month ago, and have been reading obsessively since. Like all the other newbies, I'm amazed by the amount of information here - but even more by the sheer number of you who dedicate your time to helping people out!! So I've decided to go ahead and start my thread to take advantage of all that kindness, but mainly to keep myself accountable My starting scores as of 01/03/2015: EQ567, TU552, EX550 How I got here: The typical bad decisions of an 18yo. Charged up a couple of cards in college, quickly charged off. Never paid a dime to student loans. I never had even decent credit, so never really had anything to lose by ignoring the bills. Other than a few subprime car loans, I haven't used any credit since the 90's. A couple of years ago I became a foster parent, and have had 14 children come, leave, and stay. We have 4 children (siblings) who came to live with us 21 months ago, all under age 5. They are now on the path to adoption, and we hope to become a "forever family" this year. Back in October, a very nice man knocked on my door and drove off in my car. I had the money in the bank - just hadn't gotten around to paying the bill in a few months. I got the car back, and the loan was reinstated - but a mistake like that could have been cause to lose my kids!! That was enough to yank my head up out of the sand; It's officially time for me to be a grown-up. My goals: It would be nice to buy the house we're renting in a few years, and to get a decent loan the next time I need a vehicle. But mostly, I want to be more than a subprime parent to my kids. They deserve all the stability I can possibly provide! My current "portfolio" (LOL): Positive Tradelines: None, zilch, nada!! I do have two secured cards on their way to my mailbox, a Cap1 and a WF. Both starting at $500, I plan to build up those CLs before looking for the 3rd card. Collections: 3 meds totaling <$1000, one isn't on TU, but otherwise on all three. All from late 2013. Automated Recovery Systems - $351 from April 2013, only reporting on EX. This was from some sort of print advertising for my former business. Installments: 2 car loans; my current one has 9 lates, 2 are 60 days, and one 90 from October. - one closed, has 2 lates that should fall off in June. I'm still waiting on hard copies, this is all from online. I plan to start HIPPA on the meds once I get addresses off, the good thing is everything is tied to my last address. I'll definitely post the details on the medical forum before jumping off any cliffs!!

Hi all! New to this amazing site as a poster, but been lurking for advice for a year now. I started rebuilding 10 months ago with scores in the high 400-low 500's, am now at: TU 566 EQ 561 EX 582 These are myFICO scores. True FICO 8. I have 2 baddies left -- one Collection that I just paid for $316 from Portfolio Recovery on behalf of Cap One, and one First PREMIER CO account for $416 unpaid, due to age off in April -- however, I am awaiting this to be deleted as I did a direct dispute due to major inaccuracies in reporting across all 3 bureaus. Now, I have 5 credit cards as follows, and have gotten my UTIL down to 55%, from almost 90%. My goal is 25% by October, as I know this will greatly improve my scores as well. Here are my limits: Barclaycard APPLE VISA: $3,000 - $2,600 balance financing iMac CareCredit: $3,000 - $1,299 balance 0% APR Western FCU VISA: $1,000 - $1.50 balance Capital One QS1: $1,000 - $299 balance Credit One: $600 - $225 balance FingerHut: $250 (LOL!) - $0 balance ​I am discouraged that my scores aren't higher, and I am now told that paying that collection may not jump my score at all. HOWEVER*** I was told by FICO directly that the newest scoring model, FICO 9, IGNORES collections that have reached a $0 balance! If only I can find lenders who use FICO 9 -- any ideas here ? Once that reports as a closed, PIF Collection (it's only 5 months old), my score should go up a bit with the FICO 9 at least, not sure about FICO 8. . . Also, if FP deletes my CO, as many have had success with after a direct dispute, I could see a jump too. Any and all advice here is much appreciated. I am getting discouraged, as my VantageScores seem to jump each time I pay an account or UTIL down even a little, but FICOs much slower. I am aiming for a 640-660 by Christmas, to app for higher end cards with higher CLs! Thank you in advance, I am excited to be on this journey with so many others! -- Joey

Hey guys I have a question for some of you seasoned vets here. I had ID Theft about 2 years ago. I was pretty successful in getting most of the items removed myself except for one of the State Tax Liens which is still on TU. -First question is about a situation I have with a car loan. I subleased my car to a friend and he did not make the payments and there are several late pymnts on there that I need to get removed. The BMW FIN Account reports to all three bureaus. Is it possible to fix these late payments all while keeping a good relationship with BMW??? -Second question I have is why my other BMW FIN account only reports to Experian. That is a 100k+ loan in good standing for over a year and half. Weird. -Third question. My scores show as the following: 696EXP, EQ580, TU 592 (reporting from creditchecktotal.com so not sure if this is a FAKO) Ideally I would like to figure out how to remove those late payments and have that Public record removed which was not mine due to ID Theft. Lastly, simply using Experian's decent score of 696 what would be the best credit card to get to start building a foundation of good credit and keep it for a long time? Cap One? Chase? ???? Current situation. Amex 3 months as AUTH USER closed account now (experian only reported) BMW FI 8x30 since Aug of 2014 (all three bureaus) BMW FI good standing since DEC 2013 (experian reported only) CITI good standing since Sept 2012-current (all three bureaus) First Electronic bank FRYS Good standing since 6/2012-Current (Experian and Transunion reporting only) THANK YOU GUYS SO SO SO MUCH.

I disputed a Portfolio account on my report. They have changed the name from Portfolio Recovery to Capital One. All the contact information is still Portfolio Recovery. Is this legal?

I'm just interested in everyone's plan for 2015. Are you rebuilding, just beginning, in a holding pattern, or are you ready to be a credit repair pro and help others? Did you meet your goals for 2014? If you want, provide your plan so you can come back at the end of 2015 and see if you met your goals.

Hey everyone, I have just started the process of trying to clean up my credit and my wife's credit. Following Why Chat's advice I have begun the process by opting out and trying to remove old addresses. In reviewing my Eq report I noticed phone numbers and address that don't belong to me. One of the addresses belongs to Law Offices of Mitchell Kay PC in Smithtown, NY the phone number belongs to Enhanced Recovery Associates. ERC - was robocalling family members and me to try and collect on a T-Mobile account up until I demanded they stop a few weeks ago. I have no idea where the Mitchell Kay thing comes from. Why would a collection agency or law firm put their information in my credit report? What steps should I take to address this? Thank you!! I appreciate any help / advice that you could offer.

I know I've made several posts this week. Sorry if I've annoyed anyone and many thanks to everyone who has been so helpful to me. So, I've been trying really hard to bring up my FICOs, and in just the last month I've made some pretty decent progress with TU and EX... TU 600 -> 665 EX 644 -> 678 Then there's EQ: 600 -> 605 I don't get it. It has fewer collections than the other reports. Same tradelines for the most part as the other reports with these differences: $500 SYNC/Belk Card isn't reporting (what's up with that? my other 3 SYNC TLs report to all 3...) Chase $30,400 AU acct also doesn't report on there, but it's not on TU either I don't even know how to attack this. All the regular paying down balances and getting off collections seems to be having very little effect. Is EQ always so stubborn? Are there quirks I could try to utilize? Does anyone have any ideas?

So here is the update that some of you had asked for on a previous post. I apologize in advance for the length, but I wanted to get all the details out so that I could potentially help someone who wants to know how lowering Credit Utilization DOES help your score. Skim over if you must.... It is also important to add that I have 100% outstanding payment history. I don't show any lates. Here is a little background first: I have 7 cards on my report: #1 Capital One (300 limit) #2 Capital One Quicksilver (300 limit) #3 CreditOne (400 limit) #4 Firstprogress secured (350 limit) #5 Fingerhut (700 limit had a recent increase to 1200) Authorized User Cards #6 Capital One (750 limit) #7 Capital One Quicksilver (500 limit) I also have 4 baddies that I have yet to fix that total around $2500.....2 are medical. I have $37,000 in student loans that are in good standing and go back 14 years. Now my story: My husband had a massive heart attack in January and that took him out of work for 4 months. I depended heavily on mine and his cards and Maxed them all out. The only card that wasn't maxed out was my fingerhut card. I kept it below 20% My 630 credit scored tanked to the mid 500's. Recently I have wanted to purchase a car and even though my Credit Union will accept a 550ish credit score they will do so at a higher rate. I wanted to improve my score before I even apply so this is what I did: I am a teacher and I decided to work summer school which would give me an extra $2800 in just one month and this is money on top of my salary. The first part of the summer school money came on 7/14 and I paid $1750 towards the nasty Credit Card Debt. I plan on using the next part of my summer school money as a down payment on the car. I left $20 on Card #1 I paid off Card #2, #3, #4, and #5 The problem: After I paid off #2... Experian Credit Tracker decided that it would charge it $45 for monthly services that I wasn't able to use since the card was maxed before. UGHHHH!!!! I called Experian and they could only credit me $23. So now I was down to $21, BUT that wouldn't happen for a few more days and my statment was about to cut. So I called Capital One and the best they could do is credit the prior months interest, but the couldn't do it for this particular card since I was on a 0% interest deal. So I asked them to do it for Card #1 They did, but since interest was coming in That put that card at a $19 balance. Other issues... INTEREST! Why do they bill it right before the credit snapshot is beyond me. The only card that wasn't affected by the INTEREST was Fingerhut. On week one this is the cards that reported and their balances: #1 Capital One $44 15% Utilization (Stupid Experian Credit Tracker) #2 Cap1 Quick $19 6% Utilization #3 CreditOne $5 1% Utilization (Interest was added ) #4 FirstProgress $1 <1% Utilization (Interest was added ) This was only week one which took me from 77% Combined Utilization to 39% HOWEVER, only EQUIFAX was quick at getting it on my report. TRANSUNION is lagging and only showing 61% I checked my Credit Score this morning and EQ shot up 64 points!!!!! TU is lagging and only shows a 26 point increase. It should increase as they catch up with my payments. NOTE: For my auto loan my credit union only checks EQ. My EQ went from 565 to 628 in one week! My TU went from 588 to 614, but it has only reported one card and hasn't caught up with the other 3. So this is what will happen next week.... MY fingerhut card will report on 7/26.... It should show as paid in full if INTEREST doesn't get put on! It should also go from a 700 limit to a 1200 limit. And then: On August 2nd my authorized cards should be removed since I dropped myself as an authorized use which actually will help my utilization and since they are young cards they will also add one more year to my AAOA. Check back for more updates! I am sure it will jump more with the changes that will occur this and next week. Does anyone have any idea how much more I can see an increase?

Personally I think this whole credit system is so unjustified to a lot of hard working tax payers. A lot of people have bad credit due to the economy crashing in I believe 2009. So how are we held responsible for those downfalls?? I feel the right way to do this credit system is instead going based of something that happened 10 years ago, should be based on your income. And what I mean is based of the money that is taken from us hard working tax payers. I mean it's not right how I'm struggling to buy a car when ignorant loud and lazy people in Compton get a cut from me every time I get a check. All they are doing is smoking weed, drinking, robbing and probably complaining about how they don't get enough money from the government. Meanwhile it rips money from people who are struggling with credit problems like me. And tell me if all that money they take away from us is even helping out with our credit score. But! Every time you run your credit it brings it down just to view it??? I'm only saying this because it's common sense, if I'm trying to get financed for a car now it doesn't mean I need to check my history from ten years ago. These finance company's strongly believe that the depression was completely our fault and we should have to suffer for it.

I just need some advise on ways to get my score going. I currently have a 532 avg, Situation is, I own a home, . , have 2 credit cards for 12months, no lates. No car payments. Have 2 judgements for old credit card(2750) and hospital bill (12520). I have tried disputing old entries , from over 2 yrs ago, but remain. Most negatives on reports are from doctors charges, about 14 of them, all in collections. Right now my income meets my monthy payments so we wanted to sell our home and get into something smaller and more affordable, but with score like it is , its impossible. I have no late payments for last 10 months on anything, yet my score continues to drop. Does anyone in this community do or know someone who can help?

In late 2009, I acquired over $20,000 in medical debt in Texas, where I still live. It is now nearly 6 years later, which means I have just over 1 year left in the 7 year credit reporting period, and am well past the 4 year statute of limitations. The debt originated from Presbyterian and is currently with MEDREVSVC. I have always ignored my credit until a year ago, and as far as CreditKarma.com has stated, this information hasn't changed in the past year. I've never in this 6 years been called; never been successfully contacted in any way (that I recall) by the collection agency. I used to have a habit of hanging up every time a collector called and I stuck with that pretty aggressively. I've heard that if MEDREVSVC sells to another collector in this next year, the original 4 year statute of limitations remains, and I cannot be sued. I've also heard that if the debt collector is outside of Texas, that also makes being sued more difficult. I've heard that my debt could be sold at any time and that it would renew the 7 year period as a new collection under the new debt purchaser. Any chance that they'd just not sell it or that it could expire without issue? Not only have I heard it can be sold, but can be sold 100 times, so even though I can't be sued, I am going to have to address it. Is that right? Also, any advice on negotiating the balance? Is this possible? What are my options? I net $30k a year and save a semi-aggressive 35% and would love take care of this soon, but in the cheapest way possible. Advice?

Hi Everyone, I have been helping my cousin clean his credit up. I have been reading a lot, but am a little overwhelmed. Below are his stats and the accounts. Your guidance would be much appreciated on how to proceede. Capitalone BestBuy Transunion is reporting 2(30 Day lates) 2(60Day) and 2(90 Day) Lates. Equifax is reporting one of each. Is a goodwill letter our best bet here? Chase Auto Loan This one is a killer. Transunion is reporting 18(30 Day) 11(60Day) and 4(90 Day) Equifax is Reporting 19(30 Day) 11(60 Day) and 4(90 Day) I don't even know how to approach this one. He has paid this one off and it is reporting as paid on his reports, last payment on DEC 14. Eastern Bank Car Loan On Both TU and EQ 2(30Day), 1(60 Day) and 2(90 Day). Should we do a goodwill on this one? I got him a few new accounts with Capone, Credit One, Target and he is an Authorized user on an AMEX. Guidance would be great, fully prepared to do the work i just don't even know how to approach this. A

Question: I understand the 7.5 year mark that any “paid as agreed’ account will be removed from your CR. I had a Capital One CR account back in 2008 but I closed the account because there were items on the account that I did on purchase. I called multiple times to have them look into it and was eventually sent a letter that the items purchased were valid. I paid everything off (although $300.00 wasn’t my purchase) and now the account is still showing in my report and has not been removed. Is there some way that I can have this removed to boost my score or should I just let it be? I really don’t want mortgage lenders to see this on my account.

Here's my situation: I have a BofA CC closed in 2012 as Collection/ChargeOff with $3500 on it. This was when I was unemployed/trying to start my own business (had ~$20k savings that I blew through during that time). Since then I've been living using a debit card, no CC's at all. Other than that one collection/chargeoff there are no baddies on my report. My car was bought w cash: no auto loan. I've been living with my mom when unemployed, since then I've been living in at-will month-to-month housing off CL with no leases, and the past 6 months in AirBNB rentals. Now my situation is much better: co-own a business, salary is $150k. I want to buy a house in ~1 year, so looking into repairing my credit. Read a lot on the forum, but I am unclear on how to proceed: Should I try to settle the ChargedOff debt, even though it was from 3 years ago? I talked to BofA collection and they are willing to settle for $1700. However, I read in multiple places here that this will have minimal effect. However I still have 4 year to go before this gets erased from my report. I am thinking I should get a secured card, or perhaps multiple? Or start a CU account and get a card through them? I have about $28k in savings, which are currently in a BofA checking account - should I transfer these out to another bank ASAP? FICO score is 556. Someone IRL suggested I get an auto loan/pay on time - this should have a good effect on my credit?

Hi, I would like peoples opinion before I pull the trigger on any of these options. I have 40k in debt, 25k unsecured loan and the rest are credit cards. I was self employed and about 2 years ago my business collapsed and had no choice to use credit cards. I am getting back into track but paying the minimum and the initial loan amount is killing me. I feel like im being strangled and cant breathe due to these payments. I was never behind on payments until recently on a few cards, (less than 30 days). I would like to know the people that decided to do a settlement how long did it take you to rebuild your credit and increase your score and how long did it take you to get a new car/home loan? Thanks.

One of the happiest day of my life of credit repair journey! I had a SL late payment baddie TL for years with no luck with many GW letters, phone calls and emails. This was the last item which i couldn't clean up all these time but time to time kept doing it to get lucky one day. I wrote many letters every couple of months and emails to different people from different people supporting my case. Even my bank manager certifiying how bad i needed it. After years of trying I gave up hopes long back but kept sending letters and emails. Finally today i got the greatest news of my repair journey in the mail. I received a letter from GL saying that they are kind enough to remove them and will show up next month. Will not believe it until i see them show up on the reports. I must thank you all CBers. This was the last negative item on my report. Bcos of you I have came a long way from 10+ bad TL to a spotless credit with 20+ positive TL! Everyone on the same boat out there, keep at it. Persistence is the key!

In January my husband had a heart attack which put him out of work for four months. I found myself using my 7 credit cards to the point where 6 are maxed and my fingerhut is at 20% utilization. I am sitting at 84% total utilization at this point. I am planning on purchasing a car in mid August. I am about to pay off all $1300 next week and $1500 two weeks after in order to completely pay off my credit card debt. I need a score increase to buy my car. My questions: I have seen various websites that recommend you leave <10% on your cards to get the most increase in the score, is this true? Should I leave only 3 cards at less than 10% and the other 4 at 0? What will help me get the most increase? My EQ (the one my credit union will look at for the auto loan) has plummetted to 560 when it was 630 before my husband had the attack. My credit union will approve a 560 credit score, but will give me a better rate at a higher score. Will the simple fact that I am going from 84% to less than 10% give me a big increase? Has anyone had any experience with their scores jumping and if so by how much after bringing utilization down? I have $3800 in CLs and balances which total $2800. Should I throw all my money to completely pay off or just pay down to 10% utilization?

Can someone please help me to figure out or point me to the proper thread to learn if the dofd changes when you make a payment, acknowledge the debt or bring the delinquent account current? The debt i'm questioning about is a mortgage account that is in NY, the original dofd was in 2009 i tried to catch up on it but my job relocated me to texas in in 2008 and i ended up losing the home but they have not foreclosed on it yet. Any responses are appreciated