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Everything posted by MB82x

  1. Thanks - I found the Amex answer - didn't see anything for Chase. Looks like I probably should have asked Amex for 3k, not too huge a deal. But I guess I need to wait another 180 days before asking again. Oh well!
  2. I didn't find an answer in that thread.
  3. I got auto-increased on the following cards within the past couple of weeks: CapOne: from 1700 to 4600 Discover: from 1800 to 2100 Barclays: from 1000 to 2800 Feeling good about myself, I asked Amex to increase me from 1000 to 2500, which they did instantly... should I have asked for more? If so, how long should I wait before asking again? I also have a Chase Amazon Card with a 1000 limit, which I would like to increase. How much should I ask them for? Income is approx. 50k/yr - FICOs are all 690-710 - account was opened October 2017
  4. Hi all. I have a general question regarding requesting credit limit increases. When requesting an increase, is there a guideline to know how much we should request? Logically, the lower the increase you request, it should be more likely you're approved. But you risk leaving potential credit on the table. On the flipside, if you ask for too much, you're more likely to be denied. Would the CCC counter with a lower increase? I recently had several limits automatically increased, CapOne from 1800 to 4600, Discover from 1700 to 2100, and Barclays from 1000 to 2800. I decided to poke Amex, and ask them to increase me from 1000 to 2500 - and it was instantly approved. Getting the instant bump sure was nice, but made me wonder if I should have asked for more. I also have a Chase Amazon Prime Card which has yet to get any love, and it's one I swipe almost every day (I work in a pharmacy, near a Whole Foods... 2% back at the Pharmacy, 5% back at Whole Foods), so I regularly make heavy use of my $1000 limit, and pay it down every month. I'd definitely like a CLI on this card, but from what I can tell I'd have to call and talk to a person. How should I know what I should ask for?
  5. In the past two weeks, friendly letters from a few of my CCCs, stating they're upping my credit limits... CapOne: 1800 -> 4600 Discover: 1700 -> 2200 Barclays: 1000 -> 2800 Amex/Chase still at 1000...
  6. Are the bad accounts completely gone, as in removed entirely from the credit report, or are they just cleaned up to appear as good accounts? If the items are merely cleaned up, you might need to look at the details - sometimes things get overlooked. I had EQ reporting a charge-off a few months ago, but also had a letter from the OC saying the account was in good standing and not charged off. TU and EX fixed the issue very quickly - but it took EQ like 3 or 4 times to get it right. They kept leaving little hints that the account was once delinquent/CO'd in the details. Some discrepancy in scores is normal between CRAs - but there could also be differences in credit limits, utilization, payment history, etc, hidden in the details. Congrats on the removals!
  7. congrats!!!! recom with barclays is always worth a shot. FWIW, barclays has been very liberal with me. PIF is preferred by many issuers and your own long term financial strength Thanks! I'm still learning how to maximize/perfect my payment timing/method in order to maximize FICO and minimize interest paid. Typically I try to almost PIF a couple of days before the statement cuts, then pay the balance off once the statement cuts. Read somewhere, probably here, that I don't want $0 balances reporting, as it's not optimal. So if my statement cuts on the 16th, and I have a balance of $820 on the 14th, I'll pay $800 on the 14th, and $20 on the 17th or 18th. As far as Barclays goes - should I wait maybe six months?
  8. I got denied for the Barclays Uber Card w/ a 713 TU score, and ~15% total utilization. Some of my accounts are relatively new - approx six months old, and I had some lates on my oldest open account. Nothing very recent though. Called for recon, got a $1000 limit, not great, but better than nothing. I feel like it took every ounce of sweet talk I could muster to get what I got. They put me on hold a couple of times, and asked a few questions. When they finally agreed to issue me an account, it sounded almost like a reluctant "okay, what we can do is this..." They wanted to know: - Why the lates on the older account, I explained why - told them what I've done to ensure it won't happen again - Why so many accounts (three) opened in past six months or so - explained I'm trying to build credit, would have held off a bit longer if I knew the Uber card was coming ahead of time - Used that lead-in to explain exactly what I'll use the card for - dining, Uber, streaming services, cell bill, emphasized the card's benefits seem tailored to my needs So with Barclays, is it absolutely essential to never carry a balance, ever? Sometimes I'll pay like $250 exact if the balance is like $258.21 or whatever. The $1000 limit should be sufficient for what I'd use it for, but getting an unexpected decrease would make things tight/inconvenient each cycle. I feel like Barclays is probably not very liberal with issuing CLIs. Any advice on when (if) I should ask?
  9. Thanks! Just wanted to post an update. My EX and EQ scores both just update on all three statements. Discover actually posted at the $20 balance despite the statement cutting at $320, so there does seem to be a small window of leeway to address large purchases. YMMV of course, and I wouldnt call this reliable. It may not work for all cards, and the time it takes for payments to post seems wildly inconsistent in my experience.... Now if only TU would update to reflect these changes. Theyre the bureau I want pulled...
  10. The card I'm after is the Uber Barclays card. I don't "need" the card so to speak - but their perks and rewards system would save me a decent chunk of change each month, which is nice. I haven't asked Discover for a CLI yet, but they did just bump me from $1200 to $1700 without me asking, because I'm "so responsible" or something. I've only had the card since October. Go figure. I requested a CLI with CapOne a month or two ago, and they bumped me from 1000 to 1100, and just this week they bumped me from 1100 to 1600 - but I didn't ask for that one. Chase, I haven't looked into yet, beyond visiting their webpage and being led to a page that said "there's no current offers for a CLI" for me. Maybe if I call them, but it might be best to wait a bit longer. Thanks for the advice! I'll keep working on trying for more CLIs as time passes. Do you find cards that start small tend to cap out small? At some point, should I expect my CLIs on these cards to be more than $100-500 a pop, or will I need to explore bigger and better cards?
  11. Aside from the obvious "pay in full each month", what are some best practices to prevent high balances from reporting. Even paying in full isn't fool proof, as large purchases may need to be made at the wrong time. ​Case in point, I paid one card down to about a $20 balance, let it sit a few days, had to make a $300 purchase - which I quickly submitted a payment for (back down to $20 balance), but just saw in the app my statement cut at $320, despite my balance now being $20. ​Is that $320 going to be what's reported to the CRAs this month?​ That's a 18.9% utilization rate on that specific card, versus what could have been 1.2% by a matter of hours. I'm hoping there's some sort of delay here that benefits me, since it seems I made the purchase at the worst possible time. I realize this is typically not a big deal as long as you're able to make your payments and not out of control with your debt, but there are of course times when you want to have your utilization reporting at a nice, shiny 3% or whatever. In my case, there's a CC I want to apply for, and it's a little tougher to get than what I already have. With a good utilization, I think my scores may finally be over 700, and I just got some healthy credit limit increases this month (1200 -> 1700, 1100 -> 1600), which should help. ​Experian is (currently accurately) reporting one card at 65/1600. TransUnion is showing 941/1100 (last month's news). When should I expect TU to catch up? ​TU is the bureau I want to make sure is up to snuff. Right now it's showing: CapOne: 941/1100 (EX shows 65/1600, as per statement from 1-2 days ago) Chase: 451/1000 (is actually 19/1000 now, as per statement from 1-2 days ago) Discover: 351/1200 (is actually 20/1700 now, but statement cut at 320/1700 today... so we'll see?) CU Card: 906/4000 (is actually 867/4000 now, but they update erratically it seems...) Even with that high (36%) utilization, my TU FICO is 675. Looks at worst I can hopefully expect my utilization to drop down to 15.7% at worst, and 12.1% if I beat the buzzer with Discover (if maybe they cut statements, then later that day post to CRAs?), so I think I should expect a healthy jump in my score regardless. Hopefully to 700+. Going forward - is there a "best way" to manage this? Should I try to bump my statement dates up to the 20th for instance? I get paid bi-weekly, and typically do the following: Paycheck closest to the start of the month: pay rent, pay utilities, pay student loan. Rest goes to savings. Paycheck closest to the 15th of the month: pay down credit cards to a negligible balance, wait for statement to cut, then pay in full. (I obviously wasn't as on top of things last month, but please not that I was not "late" on payments, as those balances were accumulated after paying in full the previous statements). Mostly just looking for any good methods/habits people have, or insights into when exactly is the best time to pay down those balances. Thanks!
  12. What was the reason for denial? The letter actually listed four reasons, some of which seemed odd to me: - Insufficent number of accounts (I have 3 Open CCs, and a student loan) - High number of CCs recently opened (fair, and I would have held off if I knew Uber CC was coming beforehand) - High number of recent inquiries on credit report (only two on TU, and one is for the Uber Card) - History of delinquency on credit report (fair, last late in June 2017, but there was a rough stretch of lates in 2014-2015 3x 60s, handful of 30s)
  13. Applied for Barclays Uber Card in Nov. with a 659 TU score and was declined. Didnt get any love on recon either. TU is up to 681 now. Open/Relevant accounts are: Kohls: Opened April 2014, now closed... reporting a 179/300 balance/limit, though its now paid to zero. Never late. Credit Union: Opened January 2010, late a LOT of times from 2014 to 2016, last late Jun. 2017. Reporting 1265/4000, now paid down to 900ish. This is the one thing really keeping my score down. CapOne: Opened August 2017, reporting 220/1000, now 50ish/1100. Never late. I PIF every month, but havent figured out the timing to have low balances report yet. Chase: Opened October 2017, reporting 8/1000, still in that same ballpark since I have some small purchases pending, but just paid the rest in full. Never late. Discover: Opened October 2017, reporting 0/1200, currently 65/1200. Never late. Annoyingly, on my TU report, all of the cards for some reason still have September and October as the last time payments were recorded, so perhaps my score should be higher if the information was current? I also have a student loan that recently entered repayment, never late, but the balance is high... approx $12,600... FICO simulator has my score reaching 691 relatively shortly, but taking almost another year to break 700. Id like to reapply for the Uber Credit Card, but dont want to waste inquiries and further hurt my chance in the future. Anyone have any idea or insight on when it would be a good idea to try again?
  14. I frequently use Apple Pay via my watch, mainly at grocery stores, where it seems to be accepted no matter what. I like it. But other than that, I usually reach for the plastic. Tapping my watch is easier than reaching for my wallet, but reaching for my wallet is less annoying than having to ask a cashier if they take Apple Pay, like Im a douche bag.
  15. Thanks for the replies! I contacted my bank, and they said they'll get back to me. I'm guessing the landlord's bank either lost the check after she cashed it, or mistyped my account or routing number. I want to be diligent and keep the money available as long as I should - but I also don't want to keep the money sitting in limbo longer than I have to... whether that's more than three months, six months, or even a year - if only for the annoyance of constantly needing to mentally recalculate my checking balance, which I'm pretty meticulous about managing.
  16. Hi all! I'm in a bit of an interesting situation regarding my rent for the month of January. I wrote a check and gave it to my landlord at the end of December, and she cashed it and received the money on January 11th. Around mid-January, I noticed the money had not been withdrawn from my account. I contacted the landlord, who assured me she cashed my check and received the cash without any issue. Since, I have written a check for February's rent, which was cashed and withdrawn in a timely fashion, and as of today, the January check has not been drawn from my account. I'm imagining the check was lost or misplaced by my landlord's bank, and is probably getting dusty under a counter somewhere. Or maybe a typo was made? I'm tempted to transfer the funds back into my savings account, as I typically only use my checking to hold enough funds for what I need, plus a few hundred extra in case I need it quickly - but I don't want to accidentally overdraw my account if the check suddenly turns up or whatever. Plus it's annoying constantly having to look at my checking balance and recalculate to know how much money I actually have or don't have. How long until I can assume the money is not going to be withdrawn, considering my landlord has assured me multiple times she received the money on January 11th?
  17. Well, the CA hasn't reported it - but the OC has. I'd like to get it wrapped up before the CA reports and also get the OC to take it off. Looking for my best bet in order to achieve this.
  18. Hi all! I'm finding myself in a bit of a credit pickle, as a report pull and a collection letter have revealed a black eye on my credit report - and it's one I'd like to rectify. A while back (2014), I went into Kohl's with a wad of cash, and the intention of buying some new bedding and stuff for the apartment. At the register, the cashier somehow talked me into getting a Kohl's credit card. Turns out I spent a bit under $300 that day. Fast forward a month later, and I never received the card. Nor a statement. Nor a phone call, or any communication from Kohl's. Two months later, still nothing. Three months later, again nothing. At some point, probably the day after the purchase, the Kohl's CC crossed my mind, then never entered my thought-process again. Until 2016, when I received a collection bill from Qualia Collection Services for nearly double the amount (nearly $300 in fees)... I pulled my credit report and sure enough, there's a nearly $600 charge-off from late 2014 from Kohl's on it. Basically, the account sat open for about 8 months without me ever receiving a bill, letter, phone call or physical card from Kohl's before they closed it and charged it off. QCS has not reported anything to the CRA's, at least yet - and as I understand it, mailing a check to QCS today would not be the wisest course of action from a credit report stand point. I'd like to try and get this cleared up, and I'm able to pay it off - but would prefer to not pay the outlandish fees if possible. The most important thing to me though is getting my report cleared up. Would appreciate any advice on what would be a good first step, and if anyone has any similar experiences that they were able to rectify. Thank you!
  19. Without getting too political, everything I've been told over the years has indicated that unions are never the right answer, but sometimes you're better off having one formed to give the employees leverage and a voice, especially if the company starts getting heavy handed. The company I work for - a retail chain - has been pulling some stuff I feel is extremely shady and underhanded. Some of it almost sounds illegal (not sure if it is, but it's very harsh). - The state of Massachusetts had all public transportation systems shutdown at 3:30 pm on Friday. The announcement came on Thursday evening. When asked what inner-city stores should do, we were informed that all stores were required to stay open, and employees were required to take cabs or find a ride in the blizzard. - That backfired when the Governor ordered all non-essential vehicles off the roads by 4pm. This announcement came around 1pm. When corporate was informed, they said they'd let us know what to do. Around 2:30, we were finally allowed to close at 3pm. - Messages form corporate began to circulate Friday evening - basically saying, we sell healthcare items, thus our employees can be considered health care providers - all stores should be opened as usual tomorrow, we can ignore the traffic ban Apparently they have zero regard for the well being of their employees. There have also been changes to the insurance policy, taking effect both this year and next... 2013: Employees have a small window of time to get a physical and submit the results to corporate. Those who do so will save $600. Of course, they really mean those who DON'T will be charged $600 more than usual this year. 2014: Employees will be required, once again, to submit physical results to corporate, and this time they need to estimate their expected insurance costs. If they go over their estimation, it will all come out of the employee's pocket. Is that even legal? They've implemented a system where it's next to impossible for anyone with more than ~5 years experience to get a raise. Some people are "red flagged" so they cannot get even a nickel an hour raise, no matter what. Absurd policies in place where cashiers are rated by customers on a 1-5 scale, with 5 being the best. If a cashier gets a 1, it counts as a zero. If a cashier gets a four, it counts as a zero. Only fives count. If you get rated a four out of five, you can be written up. You can be fired after being written up twice. Every meeting held by management revolves around instituting ridiculous policies, and the solution to everything is threatening to fire everyone. Seems like the only alternative (other than quitting - but I still need a paycheck til I finish my degree) is to hope someone unionizes us, because we're basically having what little benefits we have stripped away and our jobs collectively threatened as a whole. Recently, a bunch of west coast stores were unionized, then this stuff happened. Seems like corporate is asking for the stores to revolt. Thoughts/experiences with unions and their effectiveness?
  20. Thanks for the replies! As for the school specific questions, I will have to reply about those later since I'm at work right now, and only have a few minutes of break... Regardless, the school is Bunker Hill Community College. I guess the 5 course selection is because I want to get ahead on credits... Most of my up coming courses are just general education ones, as I haven't really decided on a path yet. I figure getting the gen. ed. stuff done is better than sitting around doing nothing while undecided... Is 5 courses really that much? I thought it was a pretty average amount to take...
  21. After 10+ years of working in less than satisfactory jobs, I finally cracked and decided to go back to school. I am taking College Algebra and College Writing at the local community college this summer (and quite pleased with my grades so far... they all range from 98 to 102!), and despite feeling like I have very little free time, I decided to up my course load to FIVE courses this fall, although they seem a little less time intensive each...) So far, due to the last minute nature of my decision - I have not applied for financial aid in any form (loans, grants, whatever...), and paid out of pocket (a bit to $3000 so far) for tuition. Obviously, this isn't something I plan to make a habit... especially since taking more classes not only costs more, but it lowers my availability and flexibility at work, and thus could lower my paycheck if I find myself working less. Some factoids: I am single, 30 years old, and make roughly 30,000 a year... my rent expense is $650/mo, travel expense is $70/mo... I live in Massachusetts I'm a bit concerned my availability change will result in my hours being cut at work... which would be immensely helpful with school, but it would make things very difficult financially. I'd like to keep up a five course/semester pace, so I can achieve my goals (which are a work in progress, lol) in a reasonable time. I don't, for instance, want to spend 7 years on a bachelor's degree, especially when I'm already 30 years old. My availability at work this coming fall consists of two shifts I normally work, one I sometimes work, and two where I am probably not needed at all. On the flip side, I am sacrificing two shifts where my presence is currently irreplaceable as we lack staffing. So that's a bit in flux... Anyway - I'd like any advice, tips, know-how... whatever options are available to me... to work my way through college over the next few years... I'm guessing my first step should be to do the FAFSA and hit up the school's financial aid office, but beyond that I don't know what else to do. Thanks for reading and (hopefully) replying!
  22. Basically, I'm wondering if there's a way to stop the seemingly unyielding plethora of unwanted phone calls that haunt my evenings. I'm well aware of the "do not call" list - which prevents a lot of the annoyance - but there are others that are just as annoying... 1) Surveys. Some jerk calls up and asks me if I have five minutes to take a survey. Because I sit around waiting to take random surveys. 2) "Charity". I regularly give to charity, but I don't need to get phone calls at 7am on a Saturday for the "Order of Fraternal Police" or at 9:30pm on a Monday for, exact words, "cancer research". 3) Credit card consolidation offers. Something about transferring my debts to them, so I can pay them interest. Usually automated. I figured I'd try changing my number (free) and going unlisted, only to find out - to my chagrin, unlisted numbers are $5 a month. It's not a lot of money, but that's pretty infuriating, to have to pay extra to not be constantly harassed in my own home... Is there a better way to avoid these smarmy bastiches, or is it basically "pay $60 a year, or deal with it"?
  23. Hello fellow CBers! This thread is intended to be one of the preliminary steps to bettering myself, by improving my employment situation. Why am I posting it? Well, mostly because I'm not quite sure how or where else to start. I have general ideas, but they're not specific enough to take decisive action. First I'll answer some questions that no one has asked: Why are you looking for a new job? Several reasons really. I'm a mid-level supervisor for CVS (yes, the drug store). I'm 30 years old, and I make a little over $14.50 an hour (close to $22/hr on Sundays and holidays, but those aren't guaranteed). Annually, I usually make around $29-32k per year. In Massachusetts, it's good enough to share an apartment with a friend - but not even close to enough to toy with the idea of home ownership - something I'd like to look into. I don't mind having a roommate, but it won't last forever, obviously. So money is the primary reason. Secondarily is, well... it's retail. As I said, I'm 30. I've been working in retail since I was 20. I really don't want to be in the same job when I'm 40. I'll refrain from whining excessively about the inanities of working in retail, and just flat out say it's time for a change. So what do you want to do? That's part of the problem. I'm not really sure. I've looked into courses in radiology for one, figuring it would be an interesting field, and a "semi-quick-fix" - but no dice. An informative seminar on the program taught me it'd be two years before I completed the prerequisites, and another two to finish the program. Four years. At 30, I regret not doing this sooner. I'm a fairly talented writer, at least according to my high school teachers and the 10 people who have ever commented on my no longer updated Myspace blog. People have suggested I freelance. It's an idea, but not one I would want to stake my livelihood to. Extra money? Sure. Rent? No thanks. Various quizzes administered by a friend have deemed me an INFP or something like that - points towards me being suited for social work, teaching or something along those lines. Well, maybe. I think, even at 30, my best bet is to go to school for something. If so, I'm willing. But I'm not sure I can do it while staying at my current job. I'll cop out and refer back to the first question I answered for reasoning. And heck, if I can get a better job in the interim, why not do it? I'll call it multi-tasking on my goals. But right now, I'm looking for a transitional fix. I want to get job that is a step up - in both pay and in quality. I know, I know... "don't we all?" ...that's what you're thinking right? Absolutely - at least for most of us - so I'll understand if some here view this post as lazy of me. Either way, I can assure you my intentions here are not born from sloth, but of a general lack of direction. In short, I'd like to make the following transition: Retail > School + Tolerable, Resume Building Job > Career. With out wasting anymore of your time, I'll ask my questions. 1: Other than more retail - what sort of jobs would I be qualified for, based on 10 years of retail experience? 2: Are credits ever meaningful to prospective employers? For example, if I took a course in accounting, would that have any value at all without a degree? 3: If I were to take courses this summer with the goal of universally bolstering my resume to make myself more attractive for a wide range of positions, what would be the best skills to pick up? On that last question, I was thinking along the lines of Microsoft Office, Excel... taking a program on those, for example. But I'm looking for some great ideas for skills that are either highly desirable, or that will make me stand out a bit more. In addition, I'll also gladly accept any other advice, words of wisdom or pearls of knowledge you might want to throw at me. Thanks for your time! I hope I didn't take up too much of it!
  24. How about "Fixing a Hole" by the Beatles. I'm fixing a hole where the rain gets in and stops my mind from wandering where it will go I'm filling the cracks that ran though the door and kept my mind from wandering where it will go And it really doesn't matter if I'm wrong I'm right where I belong I'm right where I belong See the people standing there who disagree and never win and wonder why they don't get in my door I'm painting my room in a colorful way, and when my mind is wandering there I will go And it really doesn't matter if I'm wrong I'm right where I belong I'm right where I belong Silly people run around they worry me and never ask me why they don't get past my door I'm taking my time for a number of things that weren't important yesterday and I still go I'm fixing a hole where the rain gets in and stops my mind from wandering where it will go where it will go I'm fixing a hole where the rain gets in and stops my mind from wandering where it will go
  25. Current situation is an affordable 5 bedroom apartment with four other roommates - but we only have one bathroom. Inside, the house is in good shape, but the outside is a disgrace (lot of rotting good, missing shingles, broken gutters). We haven't had any major issues yet, but really, who knows what's directly behind the drywall here. Everyone is telling me the time to buy is now - and the market to buy isn't going to get any better than it is right now. Who knows how long it'll stagnate where it currently is. I feel that I could pay a bit more, have something nicer, more room and own it rather than rent it. Also, I'm almost 30. How long do I really want to do the roommate think for anyway? Especially with 5 of us total.

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