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  1. Well the Target card has a whopping $500 limit after they CLD'ed from $1000 me a decade ago at the onset of the financial crisis, I just made a $300-ish payment to zero it out. HSBC is a newish tradeline currently offering a 0% bt which I took advantage of, limit is $4200 I paid $600 on the 15th. I confess I have never been aware of such long CL holds after payment posting, come to find out Chase has 15 day, but I've never experienced it. I didn't know what was going on which is what led me to contact their CSR. Target CSR now saying they have to validate that it left my bank account (10 days ago) and to do a conference call. Not sure why the burden of proof is with me 10 days ex post facto or why in 2018 this electronic process should take nearly two weeks.
  2. Not sure where to post this but was just wondering if it's just me or is anyone else experiencing that cards are taking a much longer time to release available credit after posted payments? HSBC is taking their full 14 days, even after a half hour with their CSR and 3 escalations, Target card is doing the same, and somewhat related though not a CL, Cigna went from paying my retroactive claims in a week to now holding it for three months. Are short term interest yields up or something? It's never been like this before. Really hoping this isn't a new trend that becomes a permanent addition to bad corporate behavior.
  3. I do blame the banks for what happened (that's a whole other show). As indicated the basement room is for me only so I can still claim it as primary residence. I don't need to be code just for myself, the room is locked, and I have egress if needed. I checked everything.
  4. I think it is a good step in the process, to be sure. Just having the separate apartment and living alone like a grownup and being close to work helps immensely. I think the property management company is the next logical step in the process, making me more and more a silent investor, while gradually pulling out my personal effects.
  5. OK so this is sort of long but it is a complicated problem and I ask for anyone who can offer some strategic insight into this challenging tangle. I just ask that responders be kind and non-judgmental. This is a difficult situation and like many who are the victims of the banking industry of last decade, some of us are even now still paying the price for their malfeasance. I have a city rowhouse bought in 2005 near the height of the mortgage bubble for 290k and current estimates are ranging from 285k and 305k. I owe 275k on it and have put about 70k into it over the years but it still needs 20k in paint and flooring to make it appealing to buyers (carpet is shot). I have listed it on 3 separate occasions beginning in 2014 and not sold. I am really over owning this house I want out. It is an 90 minutes away from my job and I am currently renting an additional apartment close to work, and renting out rooms to graduate students (4 of 5 bedrooms) which covers the mortgage, but comes with a limitless array of property management headaches, which I have been doing since 2006. This situation could easily continue in perpetuity, but I need to figure a way out of it. The property value is unlikely to change for several years, and constant maintenance costs are cutting deeply into the rental income; I do the IRS rental income schedule every year and genuinely am not making any actual money. I've been considering a few options: 1. Get all of my personal things out and rent my bedroom and work with a property management company to relieve me of most of the landlord headaches and treat it for all intents and purposes as a paper asset as much as possible. I still have to pretend to live there or everything will explode apparently, so I built a non-code bedroom in the basement that I myself may occupy when in town. I may also consider working with the PM company which may be a resource in potentially getting my house sold to another investor. In the meantime I'm paying down $500 a month in principal which helps me as long as the property value doesn't go down with it. 2. List with a full-service brokerage. Very difficult route, it alarms the roommates who fear they will soon be homeless (I have it in the lease that I can sell whenever I choose). Showings are usually people who are not serious, and it's a logistical nightmare getting all 5 bedroom doors unlocked. May consider marketing exclusively to investors (the profit is substantial if all 5 rooms are rented). Price is big question mark due to ~18k commission plus transfer taxes and other fees. 3. List it myself - get flat-fee MLS, couple hundred for a photographer, and pay a lawyer. My stepfather is an licensed RE agent and offered to help where he can. I could offer 2.5% to buyer's agent and substantially reduce overall selling cost. 4. Deed in lieu, short sale, or strategic default - Yeah, the credit report (and potential court judgement). But, given that there is a profit margin between the balance and the market value (though not much) the whole thing could be a wash. Plus, I could simply collect my things and leave, and on my own time; I could provide several months' advance notice to renters, avoid costly and disruptive repairs, and not have to deal with ruffled tenants and the logistical nightmare of showings and locked doors or sleeping tenants who forgot, etc. It's getting to the point that I feel like whatever punishment I am doled out as a result of being a walkaway cannot be as bad as continuing to be handcuffed to this situation for what is now going on a decade. Even if they did get a judgment on me for 20k or so the truth is I could probably pay it. I need some kind of option for getting out from under this house. 13 years and still underwater is too long, the status quo is no longer an option. It's like a bad marriage and I can't get a divorce. Help!
  6. Upon reflection I think it's almost a guarantee that NASA/NFCU "No PMI" really means it's added onto the APR, but if anyone has experience and can indicate
  7. Good point. Looks like NASA FCU is doing no PMI high LTV too, any other CU's anyone know of? Does "no PMI" = "PMI in APR" ?
  8. Having said that I'm thinking I actually might want to refinance to a 15 year with no PMI. Navy Federal, for example, has a conventional 95% LTV w/no PMI at around 3%. Factoring the +PI but -PMI I pay about $300 more a month, but it shaves off 15 years, which I think makes good financial sense and I can easily absorb the payment difference. At a minimum I'd be getting a lot more equity in the property sooner. Not sure if other banks are offering decent deals on this; NFCU has always denied me in underwriting, they seem real picky; so I'm thinking of looking further afield, but after being a victim of the old "oh we checked your credit between this morning and this afternoon and now we can only offer you this crappy loan and if you say no you're out of bunch of money" routine (circa 2006, the peak era of those predatory lending shenanigans), I'm really scared now to reach out to anyone on, say BankRate, meaning, their affiliates, for example. Can anyone offer advice on how a consumer can express casual early-stage interest in this without having the vampires swarm and descend on me? Should I stick with credit unions? Any advice appreciated.
  9. No doubt. I can't figure the underwriting gymnastics required to avoid PMI over 80%, but I'd rather just pay the principal down in any event.
  10. I refinanced with Quicken last December (3.99%) and closed on January of this year, and they are already calling me (like crazy) about refinancing. I'm getting calls from them (daily, on all listed numbers) from really aggressive salespeople from within QL who "congratulate" me on the fact that my loan is eligible for an upgrade, yadda yadda, and one of them said that they could remove my PMI. Further, among one of the several refi postcards I receive daily one of them also said that I could remove PMI. But I don't have 20% equity so I don't know how this is possible (without going 80/20 which I just thankfully got out of). My BS detector is going off something hefty, but on the other hand I really would like to stop paying $200/mo PMI especially when I have literally never made a late payment on my mortgage, ever in 12 years. I'm tempted to call QL back and talk to someone not directly in sales so I can get a non-aggressive explanation of what it is they're actually trying to push. I hate the paperwork and hassle of refinancing, as well the loan origination fees, but if I can save $200/mo in perpetuity that would be very compelling. Does anyone know what their angle is?
  11. Haven't posted in a while but I've got a travel co-branded Chase that has a 30-day from 10/2013 and multiple rounds on the electronic disputes are not getting results. Experian even had my "results" ready within an hour, "Updated" of course. This TL is still open and has a balance. I have a really good relationship with Chase, I have no less than five of their cards, all in good standing, and (good for them bad for me) carrying on at least three of them. They're making money on me and generally I'm a low maintenance customer. I haven't done this in a long time and I'm wondering, is it time for certified RRR handwritten letters again? Are there still some online tactics I could take? It's literally the only baddie and it's on all three reports,and I'm just not having any luck at all. Any advice appreciated, I'm a bit rusty. Thanks!
  12. Just to corroborate, the RENFE (think Amtrak for Spain) kiosks will not accept non-PIN cards. Debit with PIN is permitted, of course MCT FCU decided to fraud-freak even after I advised them of international travel. Sigh... cash is still king...
  13. First and foremost, the transaction I was attempting to process was fully valid. It's my card, it's my account. As for signing the card, I know the rulebook. Further, if that were an issue, the initial teller should have ended the transaction right then and there; she didn't. She simply asked me to sign the card and then continued until she saw the EXP date. Having said that, if a preventative measure puts me in a position to not have access to my own credit then it's as good as a thief doing the same. I'm not putting "Request photo ID" either. As for the credit balance on the card... meh, the bank knows nothing of it, that's the CC issuer. Moreover it's only a credit balance of $35. Credit balance results from applying $50 to a zero balance bc of card applying AF monthly in hopes of generating a tripwire for customer to forget to pay the $4 fee thereby generating a $40 late fee. I prefer to maintain the credit balance to deny them that and avoid the fee. Any little administrative snafu (and these happen to everyone eventually) with a scheduled $4 monthly payment and they get $40. It's just easier to put some cushion funds in there just in case. Ultimately this CC which is only being held until UT is where I want it, will be closed. New card has almost certainly been shipped, but I travel a great deal and don't have an opportunity to obtain my mail the day it's delivered. This is not uncommon. Again, the real issue is the teller making up nonexistent rules. If she just suspected fraud (which again, it was not) I would have credited her more if she had the backbone to just say it.
  14. So I needed a CC cash advance (no lectures, this is not a usual thing with me.) Now I know these are 'bad' and also, that they are more and more, assumed fraudulent until proven otherwise. I just 'know' everyone's on guard about it and just waiting to set up a 'no', and so I decided to get my ducks in a row the night before just to remove any possible 'no's'. I had been burned before, 10 years ago when I was in Paris I tried to make an ATM withdrawal (bank account not CC advance) near Notre Dame and my credit union wouldn't comply. I have since learned to advise my financial institutions beforehand where I travel and when (like letting Mom know where I'm going and when I'll be home). Anyhoo, I called the CC and confirmed that my available amount for cash advance was in fact available ($2100). I actually had a credit balance on the card. I also verified that the card, which has exp of this month, was valid until the end of the month, which she confirmed it was, and I also confirmed by buying a pack of candy at the local drugstore. So, all good right? No. Firstly, I hadn't signed the card. Which is ironic, because I specifically don't sign my cards so they will ask me for photo ID, to protect myself from fraud. So now, the very thing I'm trying to do to protect me from fraud then sets the ball rolling to make ME look fraudulent. So I sign the card, signature matches Driver's License, Driver's License photo matches me, all good right? No. "Your card's expired sir" I explain that it's valid until the end of the month and that I called the CC company and confirmed this. She said she was checking with her supervisor. They talk, and eye me suspiciously. The supervisor comes back and says the card is expired. I point her to the part of the card that says valid THRU 02/12, and told her that I used the card successfully that day. She says that for Bank of America they go by the beginning of the month. I say I verified that the card is valid, and that the cash advance will process. She goes into robot mode. We verbally tennis the same lines for a bit, at which point I cut her off mid sentence and say "gimme the card" and storm out, apoplectic. I call Bank of America customer service, I get some teenager on the phone. I ask if he can verify the exact policy of BofA on the matter. Hold music, then he returns and confirms that I was right. If the card issuer will process, that's what they go by. I knew I was right all along, but I also knew the following: 1. CC cash advances are universally considered baaaaaaaadddddd (dark clouds) 2. Because of point 1, tellers ASSUME fraud 3. The unsigned card, which was a measure to prevent fraud, was then PERCEIVED fraudulent. 4. Because of point 3, tellers made a determination of fraud (incorrectly) 5. Because of point 4, teller/supervisor were just lookin' for a reason not to process the transaction. 6. The teller lead pulled a rule out of her flowers. Even better, the CSR said to me, "However, transactions are ultimately at the teller's discretion" Oh how lovely. So, if the teller doesn't like the way somebody looks, they don't give the customer their money? I said 'No, it's not at their discretion. I'm a customer and provided funds or are available I have every right to access my funds or credit." He just said that's what he tells all customers. I want to file a complaint with BofA but I have a feeling they'll use the unsigned card bit as their "get out of jail free pass" In actuality, the teller just asked me to sign the card and the signatures matched so that solves that problem right there. The real problem I have here is the "at the discretion of the teller" and the fact that the teller lead made up a rule that just plain didn't exist and I had to abide by it. I understand the concern for protect from fraud but they can't just be arbitrary to their customers. I have since resolved my short term pinch and actually no longer need the advance. But I plan to try a smaller CC advance at another branch, just to prove a point. February isn't over yet. Security is kind of like gravity. Enough keeps us down to earth, too much yields a black hole.
  15. Agreed with all. Chase is absolutely awful. I think they especially dislike their Providian stepchildren (like myself). They have RJ'ed, balance chased, acct closed; basically everything sh@#y that a CC can do to me, they've done. They just this month balanced chased me from 6500 down to $65 above my limit. The thing is, they don't need to give notice, so you could put the card on the counter, and have it declined right there and not know why. Can't believe that wasn't addressed in the CARD act; at least 45 day notice and opt-out. But nope. Anyhoo, I think "Chase" stands for "Chase a better card." I'd rather swallow my pride and use my subprimes than deal with Chase ever again.

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