centex

Lower rates will likely be had by pursuing a five-year term (or shorter). Anything beyond five years is just begging to be upside down for the life of the loan. As Marv notes, some lenders are not as willing to do a refi on the loan when it is above a certain amount except in those instances where the loan won't be for an amount that is basically an upside-down amount. If this vehicle note is for anything more than 80% of sticker, then the re-fi may be a tough nut to crack... Anyone coming at me on a new purchase for that APR with the score claimed here would be told 'thanks but no thanks.' Chase did better than that when I bought the most recent Jag (financed ~$60K on a ~$92K MRSP)...although structured as a five-year note, it will be paid off long before then.

Some jurisdictions don't really believe in punishment.

The sheriff's office won't care. They are not there to litigate the matter. They are given a document to serve and they served it. They have NO interest one way or the other in the matter at hand. The Notice will include a Court that issued the Order. That is the jurisdiction where you will send your appropriately drafted Motion to Quash, with a copy going to opposing counsel, consistent with the Rules for the jurisdiction.

Where is there 'defrauding' though? Business borrows money and signs an agreement. If they are too stupid to read and grasp what they are agreeing to, it does NOT make it fraud. The process is explained in the paperwork. Why should a business owner be let off the hook because of their incompetence and inabilities to understand the very Agreement they entered into?

Do not make ANY decision on a NON-Fair Issac model. Just...don't! Who will be the primary applicant? Therein rests the likely answer to your question...

And yet PLENTY of people have *gasp* had third-party entities removed when the OP was paid directly. And no, it was not because it had Attorney at Law on the letterhead... Whatever...I am about done with trying to help since more seem concerned with trying to get around the efforts to ensure a provider got paid...

Do you still have the same insurance carrier? If so, then the easiest method is to call your agent and ask them for the VIN. Alternately, it would be in the insurance documents that you SHOULD have a file for. Some carriers will even have that information viewable online for a period of several years.

The partner embezzling will not be a real good excuse as it carries the implicit argument that you had no savings...and an underwriter is not going to be as inclined to approve someone living hand to fist (ie. month to month). Hopefully you have remedied the underlying problem and now have at least six to eight months of expenses sitting in savings. That way you are able to show the prior problems as having been a learning experience.

Having a plethora of cards is rarely a bad thing as long as you are prudent in your account management. That being said, you don't want a ton of toy cards or, worse, store cards. You want cards that will grow with you. We still don't know the balances in question and it appears that there are two different people raising issues in the thread, which is going to complicate matters. For the poster who has no balances of note, multiple cards with a dollar is NOT the way to do things. ONE with a two dollar balance is sufficient. Otherwise you upset the ratio of cards to cards with a balance, which is a component of the score algorithms. Where there is not a revolving balance, APR is irrelevant.

How many cards do you have and how many have balances? Of those with balances, how much (round to the nearest $500) and at what APR? If you are snowballing, then ideally you want to clear the highest APR first since that is going to be what costs you the most money in normal circumstances. You do NOT want to convey fiscal distress to your lenders if you can at all avoid it but there is nothing to preclude a basic call to the number on the back of your card to inquire about whether you qualify for an APR reduction. If you make the mistake of asking about hardship plans, expect the accounts to be closed, perhaps even before the end of the call. Sure you may get a lower APR, but a closed account screws you on utilization which in turn, subjects you to potential issues with other lenders. They spook easily, especially in the present fiscal environment...

1) don't confine yourself to minimum payments...make larger principal payments where possible to reduce the amount you get gouged for the interest 2) when you refi, do NOT extend the term. Too often, people pay on a five-year (example) note for a year and then turn around and re-fi for a five-year term. This is part of why SOME are never out from under a car note! Once re-fi'ed, continue to pay as much as possible each month to clear the note quickly. I am hoping that with under $11K being financed, you kept this to less than a three-year note. With the issues in constant income, the shorter a term, the better off you will be.

email that I had was either late September or the first few days of October. Not sure if you had replied to an offer that was sent at the same time as mine had been received. If that helps with digging through the old emails...

You could always try to make some money back by selling off options contracts...couple of puts and a couple of calls and you could get enough to cover a decent dinner or three. Sell the contracts at the right point and you still keep the shares... It's a thought...

I closed out all of the short positions this week with the dip below three dollars a share. Had I realized it would keep dropping ($2.90 this minute), I would have held out for a few more days. I had actually expected the usual wounded cat bounce that saw it jump back to around $3.50 a share...

By way of update...the credit FINALLY posted to the account. Reminds me of why I prefer using AXP...they tend to post the bonuses and such far more rapidly even when the offer says to allow up to 90 days (or other broad number of days).