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xelda

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  1. I've been having trouble with a lawn care service. He uses Yardbook to collect payment. I entered my card number and said yes for automatic billing for the weekly mow. The problem started after we agreed for an extra lawn project outside of the weekly mow. He charged me up front for the full $250 but never finished the project. 2 months later, he stopped replying to my messages and stopped coming to mow my lawn altogether. Yardbook doesn't have any way for me to manage or even view the cards I've submitted. Before he disappeared on me, I did ask him to remove my card from his account, and he told me that he did. Just to be on the safe side, I replaced the card. Imagine my surprise when I got a text from Citi alerting me that he charged my card three times: $305, $100, $75--in that order. My new card hasn't even come in the mail yet! Yardbook uses Stripe to accept credit cards. I looked more closely, and Stripe has a feature that automatically receives new card numbers. 😳 I searched the CB forums and didn't see any discussion about this. Has anyone heard of it before? I understand it's meant to assist merchants, but it takes away the main protection for consumers. Luckily at my request, Citi blocked him from being able to charge me in the future. I noticed he attempted to charge me $305 two times on a different card. I think those are the only two cards I've ever used, but I hate that I have no visibility into this on Yardbook. I've already sent messages to YardBook and Stripe to see if I can get my information completely removed from their systems, but any other suggestions? (The screenshot below was taken from https://stripe.com/billing)
  2. Hi, Everyone! I haven't posted in here a long time. I originally joined in 2008 when I was still a college student. I took the awesome advice here and easily bought a house by myself several years later. My newest job has brought me out to California. I thought finally this would be a chance to apply for JCB, but I got here right when the card got phased out in the US. :( Are there any other credit products or CUs exclusive to residents or employees of California that I should take advantage of while I'm here?
  3. Because they calculate based off 1% of the balance now if it is IBR. What I mean is why not switch out of the IBR into a different payment plan so that they DON'T use 1% of the balance? An Extended Repayment plan would probably still be $500 for a a balance that size, but that's better than $960.
  4. Why not change your payment plan so the payment used in DTI is the actual monthly payment?
  5. The seller accepted my offer yesterday, so I need to move quickly. Wells Fargo pre-approved me for 3.75% on a 30 year mortgage with 3% down. If my DTI were better, I could get 3.00% on a 15 year (my preferred choice). I've been checking around. Alliant's loan officer said the lowest they can offer with 3% down is 3.75%. Cap One's prequalifier said they will loan me less than the purchase price. Are there other lenders I should check out? I told my loan officer I need a day or two before I decide to lock it.
  6. Definitely keep track of your FICOs, but you don't need to pay for them. $60/month is a lot of money. There is a thread on the credit cards forum with a list of places that will provide your FICOs for free every month if you keep a checking account or credit card with them.
  7. It must be the 20% util. If you have a lot of active 5 figure tradelines, you must have some large-ish balances reporting.
  8. They would use the $620 because that is the fixed payment that will pay off your loan in 10 years. Here, I highlighted in red below the exact line from the document that explains this: I numbered the bullets so you can see how they are laid out in the document. It's either 1 or 2. If you are on a payment plan that will pay off your loan within a fixed period, that is the payment they will use to calculate DTI. But if you're on an income-based or pay-as-you-earn plan, then the verbiage about "greater of 1%..." will apply.
  9. Ok, this part is good to know. I'm on the Extended repayment plan. My payment is fixed for the life of the loan, but the repayment period is 25 years instead of the standard 10 years.
  10. The difference is how the payments are calculated. My total monthly obligation for my student loans is about $500, but with the new change, they will take 1% of the total balance, which is $530. I'm lucky it just slightly affects my DTI, but I can see this having a huge impact on people who have very low (sometimes even $0) income-based repayment plans.
  11. Awesome! I'm glad to know actual balances are as big of a concern as DTI.
  12. Thanks, Brian! Is this true even if my CC debt is in the $15 - $20K range?
  13. I'm trying to decide if I can buy a house in 6-8 months, or if I should wait 12-14 months. The extra time would allow me to save up more money and pay down my CC debt. However, that only marginally lowers my DTI. True, the lower utilization would probably bump my FICOs over 800, but would that make much of a difference? Here's my current profile: - 770 EXP, 756 EQ, 788 TU (FICOS reported by PSECU, DCU, and Discover) - 15+ years of credit history, thick file, AAOA is 7+ years, no INQs, haven't opened or applied for a CC in over 5 years - No lates or defaults ever - DTI with my current rent is 31% but if we can include my annual bonus, it would be 26% - Biggest debt is my student loans - Just under 20% overall utilization on credit cards. I will have this down to 15% in 6-8 months, or 11% in 12-14 months. - 5 years of continuous full-time employment but just recently started with a new employer - Total income with bonus is $70K - First time home buyer, not married
  14. If the debt's not yours, I wouldn't even consider paying it. Could it be someone else's debt that was mistakenly assigned to your account? Can the school tell you exactly which academic periods accumulated the debt? What if includes years that you weren't even attending the school? These are the details you need to verify. I understand time is of the essence for your promotion, so could your employer call the university to verify your graduation while you get this sorted out? Or are you able to login to the school's self-service system to print an unofficial transcript--just to buy yourself time? I went to a big public university, and the people on the front line answering the phones were students working part-time in the admin office. I never took their answers seriously. You need to be in touch with the ombudsman or someone much higher level.
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