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  1. Marvbear, My employer's CU is offering a 3.55% APR with some conditions of course (ie 20% down payment for example). Was wondering if I were to finance through the dealership if I would get a better rate for 60 month loan. I did notice Toyota is offering 0% for toyota Camrys '05 but I figure that is for 36 month loan. Think the dealership would be able to do any better on the 60 month loan the what my CU is offering? Thanks! Your Age: 27 How long have your been on file with the CRA’s? 8 years Credit Scores: Equifax? 783 Experian? 771 TransUnion? 788 Your Credit: Rate your OVER ALL credit from 1-10 (10=BEST) 9 Rate your installment Credit from 1-10: 9 Rate your revolving Credit from 1-10: 8 Public Records? none If yes, please describe: Auto Loans: Do you have an open auto loan? None Credit Cards: 3 Total number of revolving accounts: # of accts list on fico : 13 (including ... 2 mortgage loans) Percent utilization overall: less than 15% (approx.) Your Info: Total Provable MONTHLY GROSS income: $5150 Provable via computerized paystubs or what method: paystub New or Used Vehicle: Please describe desired vehicle: Camry 2005 Standard Please leave any comments that your feel may be pertinent and may lend added weight for a favorable outcome. I can put down a significant downpayment if neccessary. Have a '02 Camry for tradein.
  2. Yes, I've learned that now...about the over 50% and paying min. I was focusing and PIF the jewerly card since it had the highest interest and neglected Bank 1 with min payments. Now Bank 1 is the higher interest card.
  3. When applying for a new CC, has people here had success in getting a better APR and CL by calling in and requesting it over the phone? The lowest online that I have seen is 8.99% if you qualify from Chase. Citi also has 8.99%. But I have also gotten solicitations in the mail with 7.99%, MBNA/World Points in particular. If I had to apply today, I would lean towards Citi due to the fact 8.99% APR and extra months no interest on BTs. Chase has different tiers of APRs, 8.99-12.99-19.99, and I don't want to get stuck at 12.99% or worse if I could have qualified for 8.99% at Citi. Then again, somebody above said that Chase is generous with their CLs, espcially in situations with BTs...which is good. Not sure about Citi in that regard. Call me gunshy ... but I want to make the right choice here :8)
  4. TeeSharice... I did some reading on AT&T's site and apparently this is what I found in Terms and Condition: I have had a CitiBank Student Loan opened up last year... and Citibank Student did a hard pull inquiry on this from Equifax. So I would imagine if I applied for a AT&T, Citi would be pulling from Eq.
  5. I probably should have kept going on this thread but I felt that I had different questions now than I did when I first started this thread. Initially, I wanted to find out why my APR increased and how I can reduce it. People recommended I BT the balance as a solution. Thus a new thread so on a more general subject: Which credit card company I should be looking at for BTs, etc. But you're right, this thread has a lot of information ... I did however summarized on the new thread and gave even more information.
  6. Bank 1 is the card that rate jacked me. Nothing wrong with Capital 1. I have nearly zero balance on the capital one card. I did asked Bank 1 if they would lower my interest rates. They told me that I would have to write in and ask for consideration. I suppose I could call and try and negoiate again but I'm not sure how successful I will be. Anybody had any luck with this after getting rate jacked?
  7. Thanks all. I plan to get another Credit Card and BT over the balance on the Bank 1 card in attempt to PIF. I will continue this conversation on another thread...please respond to this new thread: http://www.creditboards.com/phpBB2/viewtop...ic.php?p=255635
  8. Great suggestions guys...anybody else have any more input on this subject?
  9. Thanks to everybody that posted on my topic yesterday... http://www.creditboards.com/phpBB2/viewtop...p=254926#254926 The gist or summary from yesterday: Bank 1 rate jacked me: from 14.24% to 24.74% APR. Its too late for me to reject the new terms. People on the credit boards recommended that I PIF with a BT and stick it (bank 1) in a sockdrawer. I don't have any backup cards that a CL big enough to make a significant BT. So, I am asking my fellow CBers for some advice on which credit cards I should considered. Obviously I want the best long term APR, BT incentives, modest CL, etc. My main goal at this point is debt reduction. My Fico scores as follows: TU 708 EX 741 EQ 743 # of inquires in the past 12 months TU 0 EX 0 EQ 1 (Citi Student Loan) (EX also reports older inquires... the most recent being 14 months old from Fleet) My current accounts with balances on them listed from highest APR to lowest. I am interested in doing a BT from accounts with APRs in the 20% plus. Bank 1 (24.74% APR): CL 5k Balance 4.7k Jewerly Charge Card (22.24% APR): CL 3.5k Balance 1.4k Capital One CL $600.00 Balance $3.00 Wells Fargo Student Loan Balance: 2.1k CitiBank Student Loan Balance: $500.00 And last but not least, student gov. loans....with a balance above 15k. I have looked online at some of the following credit cards offering BT deals, etc: AT&T Universal, Citi Platinum, and Chase Cash builders. AT&T Universal CitiBank Chase Any ideas, alternatives, deals that I should be looking at? At first glance it looks like Citi might be the way to go as they offer 8.99% APR over AT&Ts 9.99%. I live in California so I would imagine that would make a difference which CRA report would be pulled from depending on which CC I go with. Any advice, suggestions, and recommendations is welcomed.
  10. As of Tues, May 4, myfico133 was good.
  11. I have not used the card in question for a while with the exception of automatic payments to Netflix. Had I known, or rather been paying attention, I would have moved my netflix to charge a different credit card. Its too late to reject the new terms since I have used this card for netflix . So I am screwed at this new rate... I suppose I will look for another credit card that offers BTs and move money over. Any suggestions on which cards to look at? Thanks all!
  12. My basic question...how should I proceed in requesting my Credit Card company, Bank 1, to reduce my APR back to my original agreement or less? Will this involve a hard pull? What can I do before I put in such a request for a lower APR that will help me? My ultimate goal is debt reduction and this change to higher interest is not helping. Okay....I am still a noob at this but doing lots of reading / research. In January Bank 1 sent a letter saying that my account was going to increase my APR from 14.24 to 24.74. Of course at the time I did not really read this letter and just filed it away only to open up my statement today to the bad news. I have read the letter now however. I called Bank 1 and asked "why the increase in APR". They referred me to a CRA, Experian, and a phone #. Just now I went to Experian's website and paid for a report and score. There isn't anything really negative or inaccurate on this report. The only inaccurate information they had was my Age (off by a year), and my current employer. Other than that, I have paid all my statements on time, never late, in the past two years according to the report. Also, Experian is only reporting 4 inquiries, the most recent one being last year: Feb 2003. So, a bit of further background ... Last year around Sept/Oct, I had another Bank 1 card with 1k limit. Same sort of thing happened, APR went up, I got upset and closed the account. Now, looking back, I realized I probably should have left it opened. That card is now paid off in full as of the last billing statement. This current Bank 1 card, I have a 5k limit on it, with 4.7k balance. I have been paying the minimum balance on this card due to the fact that I have been trying to reduce debt and paying a higher interest store charge card. I also have a store charge card. It's limit is 3500. Back in Jan it was above 50% of its utilization. As of last billing statement I have successfully gotten it below 50%, down to $1.4k. I also have a Capital 1 card with $3.00 balance with limit at $600.00. So....I want to reduce the APR on the Bank 1 card and probably should look at the Store Charge Card as well. Both of them are well above 20% APR. My finance charges on my Bank 1 card practically doubled from last month's statement!! My goal has been to reduce debt and these high interest are not helping. Btw, Experian's PLUS score on me is 726, excellent.
  13. Thanks! My main goal has been to reduce debit and thus I have been focusing on paying the higher interest rate card first. I will continue to do so. Thanks again!
  14. Hello All! I just recently found this forum and am excited to have done so. I have been doing some reading on the boards here and have some questions on how to further proceed in reducing my debt. At the moment I have only pulled one report: Trans Union. I plan to pull reports later this week. They have listed ten revolving accounts. Of those ten, five are charge accounts (Macys, Nordstrom, etc). Fours accounts are credit cards, of which two were closed (one by me, and the other by the CC). Are these too many revolving accounts? I have a balance on five of the revolving accounts, with only one of the account being over 50% of its limit. The other five accounts have no balance and I have not used them in a while. I wasn't sure if I should close them or not. Also, the Trans Union report listed credit limits on most every revolving account except for my two active credit cards. In this case, it listed $0 as the credit limit. Won't this hurt my "FICO Score vs. % Utilization"? Should I dispute this or ask them to validate this information as it is inaccurate? And lastly, I wanted some advice in what order I should pay off the following: Credit Card: $5000 limit, $4700 balance, 14.24% interest Charge Card (Jewerly Store): $3500 limit, $1700 balance, 21.98% intertest From reading the boards, I have seen some people give the advice of paying all debit to below 50% of its limit. And then proceed to 30%. But I have also read some other advice to pay off the higher interest rate cards first, and then tackle the next higher interest rate card next. Do both methods have its pros and cons? What is the most recommended method? (btw, TU does not list the limit on this CC with this high balance) Thanks for helping out a noob

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