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neonhomer

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About neonhomer

  • Birthday 06/06/1977

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  • Website URL
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Volusia County, FL
  • Interests
    RC Cars, real cars, Amateur Radio, Computers

Recent Profile Visitors

183 profile views
  1. Meh... I tried.... and got the 7 - 10 day message... so no luv for me.
  2. First thing I thought is he might have been buying a OTR truck...
  3. Bought a 2015 Toyota Camry SE from a local Toyota dealer in August of 2016. Financed through SETF (Southeast Toyota Financial). It is not 100% the car I wanted, but it fills most of the needs I had. (I wanted a Rav4.) Anyway, salesman tells me "Keep this for a year, make your payments on time, and [sETF] will finance anything you want here." I just nodded and finished the deal I was working on. A little background before I continue. I have a friend who is a mechanic at this dealer, and I asked him to put me with a salesman who wasn't pushy. A couple of days later, I was contacted by a salesman (I did authorize my friend to give my contact info to sales). I went up and looked at a couple of cars, and this guy was pushy as all out. I just left. Went to a few other dealers (Jeep, Nissan and Volkswagen). I was about to sign a deal on a used Nissan Altima, and was told I would have to come back the next day to have an "interview" with a represenative of the finance company they were getting me financed through. (My credit isn't destroyed, but not top notch). I had them get back with me with a time, and left. The next day, I emailed the Internet sales division of the Toyota dealer, explained to them what was going on, and gave the salesman a few hours to come up with something. Did a online credit app. He called me back within a hour, saying he couldn't do a Rav4, but had two Camrys he wanted me to look at. Needless to say, I bought a car from Toyota the next day. While this salesman might have been putting on a show, he wasn't very pushy (most wanting snap decisions), and was willing to help me. I told him I needed a night to think about it, and he said no problem. He also said that he couldn't gaurantee that car would be available, but odds are it would be. TL:DR Fast-forward to six months later. I went to go pick up an oil filter from the parts department (Toyota oil filters are cheaper than parts store filters!) As I came out of the parts dept, the pushy salesman I originally met with was standing by my car, wanting to know why I didn't buy a car from him. I told him flat out "You were too pushy for my tastes." He asked if I was ready to trade the Camry in. Told him no, that doing that would be a financial disaster. "Well, what if I could put you into a NEW Camry XSE for the same amount per month you're paying now?" "With no money down?" "None." "Yeah. So I go from having a 5 yr loan to a 7 yr loan, and tacking the difference I owe on this car on top? No thanks." I got in my car and left. 15 years ago, I would have probably entertained the idea... not today.
  4. If you read my previous reply... I said why I want to do this....
  5. Plain and simple, it is easier for me to manage my finances when one less bill is coming out of my account. A background transfer and autopay from the finance company makes it easy for me. My original question was not to debate whether or not I was going to open a second account. My question is where would be the best place to open one. If all you're going to say is "The best place is to not open one." or the like, please don't respond.
  6. The reason I want the 2nd account is to make this easier for me. Yeah, setting up the 2nd account would require some work, but in the end, it will help me manage my payment better. As a side note, I did this for a previous loan before... before I sold the vehicle, I never had a late payment. All because I just transferred the allowance amount to the 2nd account, and then had the payment taken out.
  7. The bank I currently use is Bank of America. I have two checking accounts, a savings account, and a credit card with them. I also have cards with the following (I have various accounts, but only listing major accounts): Capital One Discover PayPal MC Now, here is the deal. I have a car payment that starts soon (10/8). My company gives me a certain amount every week for a vehicle allowance (which covers the payment and such). Before, when I did this with another company, I just opened an 3rd checking account with BOA, and transferred the allowance to that account, and then set up with the finance company to do AutoPay. (Finance company then was CapOne. Current company is SETF.) This was all automatic and one less thing to worry about. The "car account" I had with BOA was a eBanking account, with no fees as long as I electronically deposited $250 or more a month into the account. When I sold the vehicle, I closed the account. Now... BOA does not offer that type of account anymore. I want to set up something similar. These are the ideas I had: A> Transfer the allowance to my BOA CC. Set autopay to pull from this card. B> Open an Online Banking account with Capital One. Transfer allowance to that account. Pay loan from this account. (By bill pay or by attached card) C> Open an Online Banking account with Discover. For the rest, see "B" above. If I open an OB acct with CapOne or Discover, there are no maintenance fees, and they both have online billpay. In an overdraft situation, CapOne just extends a line of credit and charges 11.4% APR on the loan. Discover just charges the normal NSF fee ($30). Both have mobile banking apps. Any thoughts or suggestions?
  8. If this is in the wrong forum, please feel free to move. This deals with an auto loan, so I put it here... I just purchased a used 2015 Toyota Camry, and it was financed through Toyota. My credit wasn't the greatest, and I believe I ended up with a 14% APR, but that is not the topic here. I am given a vehicle allowance from my company to pay for a vehicle. On my last auto loan (through Capital One), is that I set up an additional checking account with my bank (Bank of America), and every paycheck, I automatically transferred the allowance to this account. Since CapOne was a direct debit, the rest was taken care of. (If you're wondering, I had a separate account for the CapOne loan so I was able to control what was in the account. I didn't want CapOne to "mistakenly" take more from the account than the actual payment, which I've heard of happening. That and it helps me manage my vehicle expenses.) When I got rid of the truck, I just closed the additional account. So I am wondering if I should just do this again... just set up an additional account with BOA, and do the same thing, or should I try to open an account with one of the local credit unions to try to build a relationship with them for a future re-fi attempt, or for future loan purposes. My default plan is to just open another BOA account, and go that route.
  9. As long as your last increase has been 6 months ago. Or if you've just received the 850 card if it's at least 2 statements but really should wait for 3 statement to cut. CLI doesn't affect hp bc it's a sp The $850 I've had for about two years and it was a CreditSteps from $300 to $500 to $750 to $850... Err, it's a $950.... And I love how they ask you your monthly spending with credit cards. I never know what to put there...
  10. I tried the Pre-approve and it didn't match anything to me, so I decided to take a leap and apply. Picked up a Platinum MC @ $500. This goes with my other Platinum MC QS @ $850. Wonder if I should try the love button on my existing acct?
  11. My company just swtiched from using fleet fuel cards to American Express cards. So we were all issued nice shiny new American Express Business card with our names on them. I figured it was just there for ID reasons, but apparently they have my social security number, because I had to give it to activate the card. Anyway, I was wondering if being tied to this business account would build my personal credit?
  12. That was helpful... not.... You could have simply said "Most cards are not going to reduce your interest rate with high usages. Reduce you balances and then ask for reductions." If you're going to be ding-a-ling about your answer, I would rather you not answer at all.

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