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  1. This thread https://slickdeals.net/f/14173061 led me to Box Home Loans, which came through for me. Watch out for their Lock Cancellation Fee of $450, but at 2.75% for $366K and 30 years, they were extremely professional, super quick to both communicate throughout the process and to bring me the option to close in like three weeks... I closed last week. Recommended. I would like to thank the creators and contributors of that thread, without which I would be paying a lot higher APR with huge fees. I would like to thank the Underwriter at BMO Harris Bank for not working with me on an identical loan with a lot higher APR with thousands of $ in higher fees, which lead me to that thread and Box Home Loans.
  2. Greetings friends, What is a good source for finding the best deal on refinancing your home mortgage? Also, what questions do you ask to compare apples to apples? I saw this on a major Bank's application for a 3.125% Interest Rate 30 years: Use these measures to compare this loan with other loans. • In 5 Years: $xx,xxxx Total you will have paid in principal, interest, mortgage insurance, and loan costs. $xx,xxx Principal you will have paid off. • Annual Percentage Rate (APR) 3.159% Your costs over the loan term expressed as a rate. This is not your interest rate. • Total Interest Percentage (TIP) 54.454% The total amount of interest that you will pay over the loan term as a percentage of your loan amount.
  3. The United card is less than a year old, so it is about to get hot with the annual fee. So I guess the goal would be to PC it to another Chase card, because you're saying it would definitely negatively impact the score if it were closed even with zero balance and no other debts? I mean if the card is closed and then you apply to another card and collect on intro and the other card should have a high balance too, what are the down sides to doing that instead of PCing it?
  4. Yes, the 24K card is the Chase United Visa. The person only has one other card which is not a Chase card. What does PC mean? Would PC involve a credit report inquiry? Would it affect in any way this person's ability to perhaps apply for another card and collect on the introductory offers? In other words would whatever PC means affect your ability to collect on a $100 or $200 promo that same bank cards have?
  5. For a score of just under 800, with no credit card debt or any other debt, how will closing a 24K credit card affect the score? Card has zero balance and other credit cards have balances which are paid off every month. The card is an airline card with an annual fee which cannot be waved (so the person is closing it to avoid the $100 annual fee). And a completely separate question for another card/person: Does it matter if a 4K balance is paid off before or after you officially close a credit card? Or does it not matter if the payment posts a week before or after the card is closed?
  6. Thank you Aahz for that post. That really answered the thread question. A citi credit card I have displays a free monthly Equifax FICO score. Another credit card displays Experian's FICO score. So what's the cheapest way to get the real FICO score that matters for mortgage / small business loans?
  7. Wait what do you mean you guys use a different scale? That is listed as the official Equifax scale. So are you talking about an Experian or TransUnion scale that you use here, or....? To the person who posted a link to this thread: https://creditboards.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=544017 That thread says "Let $2 report on 1 card and have the rest report $0." So I just wanted to be clear. For clean reports. If a person is using one credit card for everything and pays it off by the due date, does that mean they should *not* be putting *any* balances on *any* of their other zeroed out cards to eek out a few extra points on FICO? I am asking since that thread is saying "Let $2 report on 1 card and have the rest report $0." I am still unclear on what a person with a clean report should do to eek out 10 extra points if they have zeroed out cards lying around.
  8. You guys know more about these things but I definitely did not know that the number you used, 760 is the same as 800 for any and all application terms. Even if the differences may not be much, I definitely did read that *some* situations reserve their best terms for 800 and up. Specifically, some citi credit cards offer free FICO score. When you click on it, the chart says that they are using Equifax as FICO score source and then they specifically display this: What Your Score Means to Lenders 800 – 900 EXCEPTIONAL 740 – 799 VERY GOOD 670 – 739 GOOD 580 – 669 FAIR 250 – 579 RISKY That chart would suggest that 760. in that specific case, is not the same as 800.
  9. Specific goal for the person I am asking this for is to get the score raised by about just ten points since they are at 791 and want to be in the 800s and thus be in the most favorable bracket. Clarification: "Paying them off" means paying them before the grace period expires, you know, before the DUE DATE. Using them generates FICO points but if you use more than three or four it generates negative points, if I understand you correctly? If the objective is to raise FICO just a little, should unused cards be left at zero or be charged a small amount and paid off by due date. If so, how many cards should be charged, two? I know there are other things that can be done, but thread question is about what to do with multiple zeroed out credit cards in relation to raising the score by 10 points.
  10. I have a utilization question: If you have five zeroed out credit cards that you haven't used in say, six months and you start making small monthly purchases on all five and immediately paying them off, how does that affect your score? Conversely if you use multiple credit cards (that you pay off monthly) and you stop using all but one, how does that affect your score?
  11. So if you ask for a freeze, does that affect your credit score and how do you handle a legitimate application for say a credit card if freeze is in effect?
  12. So you go to third parties and you have to pay attention to how often they actually check? Thank you. I guess I'm surprised that rather through third parties, the CRA itself doesn't have a system where they simply alert you if a request for a hard pull comes in, I mean that doesn't happen that often.... A hard pull request comes in, you get a text. This is not a "thing" in the credit reporting world, I wonder why not?
  13. ID+Credit card stolen. Credit Card company gave me the number from which a call came a couple of hours after the theft, claiming to be me. They knew the birthday (obviously from my ID) but not the last four of social. Here's the kicker: they called again, this time they knew the last four of social but not other info so credit card acted wisely in placing a hold until they told me what happened. I cold the number the credit card said the call came from and asked the guy if he can just give me my ID back, and he gave me the old "uuuuuh, I just go this number recently" excuse even though the theft happened a couple of days ago. What does "freeze" mean, how much does it cost? What numbers do I call to just find out if anything new was opened in the last couple of days? Is that question about if anything was opened, free, or does it cost $ to find out? Don't they have some sort of an alert system where they just simply tell you "hey, someone's trying to open something" - or do you have to spend big money for the whole suite of things and get your score and report and everything, even though you just want to be told if someone tries anything and nothing else?
  14. Excuse the n00b question but how much does it cost to just be alerted if someone tries to do something using your name with the credit reporting agencies? I mean, if you don't care about scores, or even access to reports, if you just want to get an alert that someone is trying to do something, is there an option for just that, and how much does it cost? Or can you lock your credit reports up and have some sort of different security access procedure to open a new account of any kind?
  15. Called United (Chase Visa) and they said they cannot email, but can mail (7-10 days) the details. Called American Airlines (Citi Mastercard) and they said that they can email, then they emailed this... Question: Is this info enough for a comparison of the two cards - Apples to Apples? Or should we ask for something more specific? Insurance Type: Worldwide Car Rental Insurance Benefit Amount in US Dollars: Up to $100000.00 What is covered: The cost of repairs or the cash value of the car, whichever is less, if a covered accident or theft occurs when you pay for a rental car in full with your Citi card and decline the rental company’s collision loss/damage insurance. Who is covered: You as long as the rental was purchased with a U.S. issued eligible card. Anyone designated as an authorized driver or covered by the rental car agreement. Coverage applies worldwide, including the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. Coverage is subject to the terms, conditions and exclusions of the policy.
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