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About CTSoxFan

  • Birthday 05/04/1978

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  1. Leasing will most not be an option for you with those scores. Almost every captive requires a 620 or 640 for leasing, and even then it will be at usurious rates. Why are you commingling your FILs car deal in with yours? And why are you on their note? Can they not get approved for a car loan on their own? Why are you so dead set on making a move now, just because they want to downsize?
  2. A couple of things to consider: 1 - If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is 2 - As others have pointed out, unless you know who is going to get title, there is no point in pursuing. I am guessing the title won't go to her free and clear. 3 - If she is going to file a BK7, she should consult with her BK atty before doing anything. Large payments right before a BK can be problematic. 4 - If she is really THAT underwater on the car, she should just let it go in BK and use the money she would've paid to buy herself a reliable car for transportation in cash.
  3. I worked at RS in the 90s and it was a commissioned sales job...the people you describe were the absolute worst customers from our perspective...they would take a shitload of your time just to buy $7.43 worth of parts and you would make $0.45 on the sale. I went into a Fry's once, it was 3 years ago or so to get a new monitor. I only went there because they had it in stock and was similarly priced as Amazon. I didn't find anything particularly appealing about the store, very cluttered.
  4. As CV said, you don't really have any recourse here other than contacting the EO and asking for a goodwill removal of the lates. Unfortunately not much else you can do at this point. If there is another issue/inaccuracy with the reporting you can dispute on that and maybe get the tradeline removed, but that is an even longer shot. One thing you can do is set yourself up some reminder system, auto payments or something similar to ensure it doesn't happen again.
  5. All CC issuers must apply any amount ABOVE the minimum payment to the highest interest rate balance. However, when you have a BT you lose your grace period, so interest on the purchase will start to accrue from day 1. In order to get to where you aren't paying interest anymore you would need to pay the minimum plus the amount of the purchase, plus the accrued interest, and there will likely be trailing interest in the next month unless you pay enough above the purchase amount plus the interest amount to cover the interest that accrues from the time the statement cut until you made your payme
  6. This is common, especially with the big new home builders. Many times they will give you some form of benefit like closing cost credits, credits towards upgrades, etc. for using a certain mortgage broker, title insurance company, etc. When you read the fine print the builder is usually the owner (or has a stake in) these service providers.
  7. Exactly this. Supposedly you have to be putting $250k/year plus through the card to get offered Centurion. If you are spending at that level there is a good chance that the $10k+$5k annual is meaningless to your overall financial picture...but, what benefits can it offer that are worth over $14k more than the platinum benefits...I would venture to guess a large portion of those who get the card do so primarily for the ego stroke.
  8. You can obviously do it manually by downloading the transactions into Excel and then calculating it for yourself, but even that may prove difficult with timing, and especially hard to do it for months in arrears. At this point I would just see where your MR balance is as of the latest statement on one of your 3 cards (or the next one coming) and see what the point balance is. Then as the statements close and points are added, see if the points from that statement are what you expected and your running balance is what you expected. something like this: Balance as of la
  9. This...and it isn't that you can't get a high limit on that card as my DC card has a $60k limit.
  10. Anything you can share? Can also PM if you don't want it out in the open.
  11. And it is for moronic "nuggets" like this that I suggested you stop listening to him. You goal should be to pay as little interest as possible. That is what should make you feel good. Not that you paid off a smaller loan at a lower interest rate so you can feel a sense of accomplishment. You want an accomplishment, add up all the interest you paid my attacking the highest rate first and compare that to if you had tried to make yourself "feel good". Seeing how much less you paid will make you feel a whole helluva lot better. Money can save more money by putting it towards balan
  12. Are you just looking for approval or the best rates? As CV noted, approval will be based on a number of factors, score being one of them (along with income, assets, liabilities property value, location, etc.). There are no hard and fast rules because all lenders are different. Absent an unusual circumstance (like a very low LTV where the lender risk is substantially reduced, but if this were the case then I would wonder why your credit is bad), you will likely need to be at least 620 if not 640 for a conventional with 20% down, along with meeting DTI ratios. If you have substantially more
  13. Both above are 100% truth. Similar phenomenon going on in Austin area these days. Multiple offers, lots of them above asking, all cash/no contingencies. Before we built we put an offer on a house at $5k above asking...and were 5th best of 5 offers they got that weekend. Another house was tlking best and finals...after being on the market 1 day and the day before we were scheduled to have our viewing. We just weren't going to play that game, so we built and got a lot more of what we wanted than we would have otherwise.
  14. You need to do the math. You will almost always get more selling privately to another person, but it is a greater hassle. If you aren't comfortable doing that, at least get a quote from the places CV mentioned above. It is a no hassle cash offer, and aside from CarMax all 3 can be done from your couch. The only caveat is they are usually only good for 7 days/300 miles, so you should have your new car picked out or be reasonably assured you can find one within that time frame. Once you find your car, negotiate the price of the car, no trade. Then talk about what they'll give you for your
  15. Borrowing money at a lower cost of money than the return one can earn is generally good financial practice, and in my opinion is a better option in this scenario. I also wouldn't consider improving an appreciating* asset "wasteful" but we can agree to disagree there. How it is paid for is irrelevant. I certainly would rather have a $XX,000 HEL at effectively 2% and take the risk that that same cash invested can outperform that. But, CV and my biases aside OP I think to sum up your question. Yes you can get a fixed home equity loan. Yes it will likely be a much bette
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