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  1. OK, got to know what IANAL means. And please don't give me the "full service prostitute" thing or something....
  2. Well, I've also recently been declined by Chase and am considering calling for a recon. Wondering why you say "really, really want a Chase product"..? Is there a reason one wouldn't want a Chase product? I have also been searching for more info on Chase recons and have not found much, so I would also appreciate any info on how to approach a hopefully successful Chase recon. Thanks in advance!
  3. ING rocks!!!..... Got approved for 1000 ODP when I was still around ~620 FICO EQ. NO *EDIT* Hard *EDIT* INQUIRY. 4% checking. You (at least I) can't find that anywhere. Online billpay rocks. My only complaint is that paper checks (currently using this to pay rent, private landlord) are deducted from your account the day they are mailed instead of deposited, but you still get to keep the money longer than any of my other checking accounts that offer 4% interest (none) or than by transferring from higher interest savings(no checking) account, etc... Tons of features, never had to call anyone, you can do everything online. Perfect for the penny-pincher on the go. Just can't say enough good things about ING. Wish there was even one or two other banks like this, but have found none that compare. The ODP does not report, but I like that. I plan on using that in my mortgage loan app soon to show 1000 more in savings than I really have! ING is great and I would LOVE to get complete banking service from them. They do accept direct dep. I only wish they would let me open more than one EO so that I could keep an account seperate to pay my new mortgage loan once I purchase, hopefully a month from now. Would be nice to have a seperate account to earn interest on that monthly payment and just make sure it's there each month, seperate from the rest of my banking. Bottom line, if you don't know ING, you must be getting started on understanding finance. Get acquainted with them, you WON'T be dissapointed.
  4. No loss, their interest rate is horrible, called to see if I could get my 29.99% lowered now that my CR is better, told no they don't adjust rates once an account is opened. So planning on closing mine soon. Better off without them. DO NOT close. Follow the lead of the following posters. Get to a small balance and pay minimum until paid off, then just buy something every year or so to keep active. This assumes you care about you fico score. More available credit is better. Unless they're charging you a fee, don't close an account just because you don't plan to use it. Charge on it every so often, once a year or so, pay off before next statement and keep it active in that way. Just my 2 cents
  5. Don't think the email is a scam. I've read about it on other sites. The bottom line with myFICO is that it's the only place that I know of where you can get a "real" accurate score. That's got to be worth something. I also had the same problem recently. Hadn't gotten an update in a while(month maybe?) and so I purchased a new report and score. Score went up 11 points based on paying down a card. Received an "alert" the next day, I thought WTF? Think I'll call them and nicely ask for a refund for that purchase now based on what I'm reading here. If they say no, I'll thank them for their help and call back hoping for a different answer from a "friendlier", "having a better day" rep. Almost always works IME.
  6. A few more points after reviewing your post again. IMO, you may be able to make this less painful by using some BT's on some of your cards that currently have 0 balance, depending on the rates on those accounts of course. Making sure you stay below 15% on them, you may want to transfer some of the balances on some of your larger balance accounts to these 0 balance accounts. The good thing is, you have some time to try this and see how it affects your score. Also, and I'm sure this is already obvious, but pay off those collections and continue to work on getting them removed. Ask the credit grantor at the time of pay off if they will remove negative remarks or delete account altogether upon payment. Then if they say no, call back and try again with a different agent. If still no, pay it. Then call back later and try again for removal of negative remarks. At the same time, dispute with CRAs. You may try the "changed address and didn't receive bill" argument since you were in the process of moving at the time. Keep trying to get them removed, both with creditor and CRAs. You may be surprised at the success rate, as I have been lucky(or persistent) enough to be recently. Again, yes, the collections are hurting you. Any mortgage bank will pull all three and this will raise serious red flags, you will have to pay them before any mortgage loan is granted as this can result in a lein. Either dispute or get paid or both. Dispute, dispute, dispute. Challenge the 30 days late. Pick a reason that applies and try to get it removed. Continue to make more than the minimum on each account each month. Think this tells them something, even if it is just slightly above minimum. Get your scores on myfico.com. These are your "real" scores that the mortgage broker/banker will see and can be vastly different, usually better, than FAKOs. Nothing wrong with choosing whatever monitor service you choose, but you will want to know the score that the mortgage company sees, IMHO. Again, best of luck and look forward to hearing what others have to say about my advice.
  7. Please not that some of what I say is personal experience, much is based on what I have learned from others. Fist, I must say that doing an AoR a few months before purchasing a home was not smart, as you have acknowledged. Lecture over. Next, I think it is clear that you are better off lowering your useage as much as possible on as many cards/accounts as possible as quickly as possible. Paying the smallest balances to zero will have much less benefit than reducing the useage on as many cards as possible. Example, you pay off all cards except one and total useage is just below 50%, but have one large balance on large CL account, let's say 80%. It will still think that you are "maxed" on a card and your score will suffer. You are better off paying more than all minimums each month, but concentrating your efforts on minimizing useage on each account. Shoot for 60%, 50%, 30% benchmarks. Those are the ones that are discussed as being "tipping points". Would not be surprised if 15% is one as well. In other words, work to get each account just below one of these benchmark #'s, then work on the next one and so on. Inquiries hurt most for 6 months, then importance drops. You may wish to ask for CL increases right away if you think you have a shot, especially on your lowest limit cards first. This may help you with the utilization factor. No more inquiries once you reach the 6 month window before expected loan APPLICATION date. Remember, this will usually be at least 1 month before your hoped for close date. There also appears to be a cap on how many inquires will hurt. Once you get past a certain number, it's still a red flag to human, but doesn't appear to continue to hurt score. Good luck!
  8. It's great thanks for posting I am new here and will definitely use this. One thing I would add is a link to the card website, along with cells for username or login and password. This way you can click there and log right in to check balances and make payments. Just my $0.02 Thanks again!

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