hdporter

Damn ... all this time I thought the Credit Pulls database was moderated by Harvard trained data miners/"Admin and our Terms of Service prohibit profanity" detectors. Can't we have heroes any more?? Seriously, I'm LMAO over WalletHub's effort to add legitimacy to their CardAdvisor. Perhaps we should follow with a scholarly article that points out the foibles of their "advisor". (I've found its recommendations useless.)

I'm not sure I'm going to give you credit for perseverance here. My Quicksilver has been stuck at $15k for going on a decade and it's apparent that it won't be increased without active use (a charge every 18 mo doesn't cut it, apparently). Since C1 doesn't provide any real incentive to use their card over any other, I've declared a CLI to be among many "lost causes" and put it out of mind.

Apologies, but my crystal ball isn't peering quite that far back, and my wayback machine has a bad part that's out of production ... (Sorry; couldn't resist. You're new here and may not have picked up that you're querying about a 20-year old post from a member who hasn't been active in 9 years.) If you want to dig for greater insight on what steps @mricthus engaged in, you might click on his member name to see his profile, which will list his most recent posts (2003). Or use the search feature, specifying his member name, to see a more extensive summary of posts. Welcome to the group!

It would likely be preferable that you not defend your post, but just assure @MarvBear that you'll try to keep any "attitude" in check. Marv rarely calls someone out on their tone, so the best response is to not be defensive. I grasp your intent in the substance of your post, but I found it to be a little too much "in your face" for constructive input. Your core message, however, is entirely rational and reasonable. ' While you've been inactive for much of the last few years, you're a long term member, with a respectable track record. And, if you're the same poster over on flyertalk with the same handle, I've always valued your input there (and, again, we're talking years). So all I'm trying to ensure with this response is that you not take it personally ... I like that you're posting here again!

750 -> 728 (-22) Floating a lot of move/fit-up expenses which will either be reimbursed or funded out of closing proceeds. Still, Experian informed me that my EX FICO 8 advanced from 838 -> 849 this last month. Surprising how FICO 8 has much more tolerance for revolving debt, provided utilization % remains in low single digits. (Highest FICO 8 since 850 FICO Aug 2021). Curr revolving util: $25k against $800k CL. (separate HELOC $243k/$320k CL -- mostly down pmt on new home down in adv of prior home sale)

NJM is "regional". I think they were limited to New Jersey, but just recently expanded into PA. Not so "small", however. AM Best assesses insurer "Financial Size", assigning each insurer to one of 15 classes. NJM sits in Class XV - Surplus (capital) in excess of $1 trillion. The fact is that while some insurers take on most any risk (aside from "high" risk), and just assign premiums accordingly, there is a subset of insurers who finely define the segment(s) they wish to serve (one that they believe they're uniquely positioned to underwrite in a superior manner to other insurers, and do not venture beyond those set boundaries. Among such insurers, one can leave you wondering how you possibly could have offended them, while another thinks you're the "bees knees" and can't wait to write your policy. The only way to find a proverbial prince charming is to kiss a lot of frogs. I think it's prudent to closely review at least half a dozen quotes when insuring a new auto or moving, unless you're current carrier is under $1000/yr. Same goes for reviewing your policy, at least once every 3 years (and perhaps any time they subject you to a double digit % increase).

Don't get me started on the "Costco only takes Visa" bit ... So Costco only accepts one credit processing network, gaining them a favorable transaction fee. Yet Costco online gets a pass on that restriction? Perhaps the biggest workaround is that you can shop Costco via Instacart and pay with Amex. Blue Cash Preferred will earn 6% on those purchases. (Of course, there's a markup on Instacart purchases, the rhyme/reason of which escapes me ... it seems to vary by item. Still, we use Instacart because of Bev's mobility issues ... and now there's her commute into Boston for work 3 days a week.) I've discussed the fact that we no longer let me do the grocery shopping, by mutual agreement. Bev claims the worst Instacart shopper performs light-years better than when I'm send with a list ...

Horses and water, eh? 😄

A decent offer on our house! (3% below list, cash, on a 12-day old listing). Snagged it, closing targeted for June 20. Double win, because separately notified by Zillow today that a comparable house, 6 mi away, dropped their listing price by 4% today (and they just went on the market Thursday!)

Thank you. Going back to my "dining" analogy, this is akin to saying that people who dine at fast food restaurants aren't aware that calorie/sodium-laden food items aren't the best diet selections. The video repeatedly treads up to the edge of seeking "perpetrators/victims" within the credit card industry. I find the notion that "rewards" lead people to overspend laughable. Really? 2 cents back on every dollar might be sufficient incentive to choose one card over another for their transactions but, as I recall in the murky past, even before card rewards people got themselves in trouble with credit card debt. Since I didn't hang in there until the end, did the video ultimately make the argument that reward cards should be eradicated for the benefit of credit card users?

Brought to you from the folks who revealed the amazing disclosure that there's a positive correlation between supersizing your value meal and obesity !! (no aspersion intended, @cashnocredit! It's just when the video revealed the fact that poorer households reap less rewards than they pay in interest on these cards, I had to shut the window ... this was after sticking in there once I was informed that banks would prefer to get their cards into the hands of those who carry balances.)

Just advise us which insurer this is so that I can run in the other direction should they ever approach me. In 45 years of licensed driving, I've never dealt with an insurer that left me with the impression that they were out to screw me (or if they did, I quickly moved on and didn't give them a second thought). In any case, thank god for freedom of choice.

I gotta stop chasing "quick wins" and get more committed about holding for the long term ... NVDA is up 25% in after-market trading today, trading in the range of $380-$390, on exploding sales of their A.I. chips.

I'm coming at this strictly from the perspective of an informed layperson (I have no professional experience with mortgage lending, beyond obtaining loans for my own personal needs) ... First, I would suggest that you concentrate your financing search to Home Equity Loans (term loans of typically 5-30 years in length). Because HEL's are closed end loans (funds are only disbursed at closing), a lender would likely consider the loan to be less risky than a HELOC. Further, while we might hope that interest rates will be coming down from current levels, in your shoes I'd want to protect myself from the risk rates might rise dramatically during your repayment; HELOC's typically are variable rate loans, HEL's are more often fixed rate loans. Ideally, over the next year or two rates will decline and your credit will improve. That would be an ideal opportunity to refinance to cut your interest cost (strive for a HEL that doesn't charge a prepayment fee if you refinance). Second, you don't cite your credit score source. Most HEL/HELOC lenders will base approval on your FICO "mortgage" scores (these are FICO Scores 2/4/5, where the number denotes the CRA file on which the score is based). A limited number may use standard FICO 8 scores. You can purchase and/or track these scores at myFICO.com. These scores may differ substantially from the score you cite. A 620 FICO tends to be the bottom score considered for most mortgage lending. When it comes to HEL/HELOC lending, some lenders have a base threshold of 680. Third, be advised that while many equity lenders will cap lending against real estate (mortgage + equity loan) to 80% of the property value, some may limit to just 60% (particularly at scores below 720). ---------- If you're willing to dedicate a decent amount of time to the task, and have a high threshold for frustration, your best bet is to beat the bushes to make inquiries with reputable lenders. The internet is your friend here (just be wary of any lender that doesn't have a thoroughly vetted reputation). If you'd prefer to let a professional beat the bushes for you, you might consult a mortgage broker in your area (again, I suggest seeking one with a strong reputation, whether through friends, are reliable recommendations on the internet). A mortgage broker is well connected with viable lenders and is versed on which lender is likely to be of greatest assistance, at the most favorable rates. Typically, their services will add a one time fee of about 2%-3% that will be added to your loan at closing. When you amortize that fee over the term of the loan, the ease they can bring to the process can readily justify the cost. Some will advise avoiding brokers in all cases; suggesting they add little to the process. Where there are lenders at the ready to accept your loan application, that's typically true. But in a case like yours, a broker can be a godsend. Best bet is to feel out a few lenders on your own and, if you feel a strong headwind is blowing against you, seek out a broker.

I'm inclined to presume that a name and address were taken at the time of purchase and that this information was submitted to open an account, upon which the charge transaction was posted to the new account.