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  1. Personally I would go with Ally, but 100% for sure if you carry a large balance in your checking (15k plus) Rates are great, free checks, they are open 24 hours. Just mail in your checks when you get them (once a year or how ever often) They even supply postage paid envelopes. Don't forget they refund the ATM fees. That's the way to go in my book. Or just use a local CU. I wouldn't use Wells Fargo if you paid me. Well, maybe if you paid me, but it would be tough!
  2. Does anyone have suggestions for an online checking account? I would like to have something similar to ING's account, but with access to actual checks. Good or bad experiences? I would probably going with Ally (GMAC) but I have some circumstances that make me skip them as an option. ING COULD work, but the rate seems a little lower then I would like? I guess I'm fine if I never actually open an account like this and just keep the traditional checking, but thought it was worth asking some experts on here! Thanks in advance!
  3. Yeah, put yourselves in their shoes a little. The banks have made the merchant the bad guy in this, and many board members are happy to comply, but do you really want to be doing the banks bidding? These fees have been going up, it is real easy for the banks to raise the price because the merchant can't directly charge the person incurring the fees, they have to spread it out over everybody. It is great for the banks, bad for the merchants and bad for us. Yes, it is a tax deductible cost of business, but that applies to every cost and costs need to be managed, especially fees that if appl
  4. What's the credit score? They probably have an automated approval, and it MOST LIKELY won't be any issue.
  5. The changes aren't that bad. They are collecting more money in up-front MIP. They can and have reduced it before, so I'm sure once things settle down or they get permission from congress to raise the monthly mortgage insurance, they will reduce it again. The only other thing is the seller can only contribute 3% towards closing costs. That's fine at 180-200k (and above) but hurts the person buying a home for 129k. What else did I miss?
  6. Based on your scores as shown, I would say that is the majority of the problem. MOST lenders have a 620 minimum score requirement (middle) Put they may be referring to no lates in the last 12 months? Which would tell me they are trying for a manual underwrite (instead of a computer generated approval) Maybe they can do FHA less then 620? Sorry - not a great answer, hope it helps
  7. I believe for most transactions, by inputting your zip, they company pays the same interchange fee as if you were to have signed the paper. Meaning for example, they pay 1.5% instead of 1.75%. So it can save the merchant some money... I may be wrong, but...
  8. Just reading the topic name, I wanted to reply.... NONE! Then I read it...Ya, good luck. No love in the industry right now
  9. Conv loans technically go to 85%, but mortgage insurance companies are getting tight, and they are basically not insuring them anymore (Feb 20th PMI stops) You could go to 95 % as an FHA loans, but you need 2 appraisals Oh, and most underwriting depts are backed up, so if your loan was submitted to underwriting, then 5-7 days isn't bad (today, 2 months ago that would be slow!)
  10. Different Mortgage Insurance companies have different rates... PMI has certain rates UG has certain rates MGIC..... Radian I'm missing one?
  11. That's horrible. I charged $2500 for my mother's attorney. Should that be used against me? Too funny. Those places shouldn't last long, at least once word gets out...And it always does. By the way, each place has their own criteria. It's up to you to figure out which one does better FOR YOU. I have had one credit card since 2000. It's at a local Credit Union. My limit (slowly gone up from 5k) is now at 10k. I called a large bank last year. Instant 15k approval. Just depends on the company. I also have a mastercard through a major retailer and they only gave me 8k. I barely us
  12. Is it FHA? That should provide a better overall payment and loan. Try to negotiate the sellers to pay for your upfront MIP
  13. With that type of down payment you could have someone "co sign" (be a "Non Occupant co-borrower") Is that an option for you?
  14. Sometimes there are benefits to "older" cars. I like driving my car to the grocery store or mall. If someone gives me an extra ding, I really won't care. Hit my wife's new car, and I'll go crazy! Usually insurance is cheaper. (can you drop collission all together?) I recently paid off my car. It has 143k on it. I WANT a new (used) car, but just keep holding out. So far I'm continuing to make the "payment" to the same bank. It's starting to add up. My hope is to use that for repairs (unexpected, not to be confused with maintenance) and or towards a new car. I may get 200k miles o
  15. https://www.dollarsavingsdirect.com/DollarS...ctWeb/index.jsp Is this a cheap way to not bump up your current customers rates? Good rate, anyway!
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