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luckydriver

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  1. exactly! i need to push the can down the road a bit then ill be fine. i know i'm fortunate that way where most people arent.
  2. this saving 100+ a month on the car is on the path to my 'wider net' plan so you and me are on the same page there. that part of the equation is already lined up so didnt wanna muddle the waters since it's irrelevant here. i wanted to cut expenses where possible to achieve my complex goal and this is part of it. been doing spreadsheets for a few weeks along with the amortization schedules. found one that lets you add payments easily at any point in time and it's been very helpful. as an aside to my research i discovered state farm does car loans up to 150K miles and includes gap at no cost. who knew
  3. the other question remains. will anyone give me a new car loan with my low 603 score because the option to fix or not may not even be in my hands. if i cannot get another car loan then i'm asking a moot question as ill be forced to fix regardless for at least the next 2 years until i get my hands on that other money. so id say yes, the answer is for at least 2 years i have to fix the car regardless. in the old days when i didnt drive much id buy a car with 100K on and go from there but with 33K a year driven now, i cannot start off used behind the 8 ball with an old unknown commodity such as that. at least i know i have 100K warranty on this transmission now so thats 3 years on that i'm optimistic and what basis do you have for 200K on my car? ive never had any car last for that little amount of time when i got rid of it. my 1987 car was 308K when i put in a transmission. 1995 one was 230K for the transmission. this one was just premature sadly.
  4. do i get a refund of the unused gap coverage i paid for on the 1st loan? alternatively. does cap one sell gap or would anyone sell for used car like this or just doesnt happen?
  5. sometimes you gotta do things against the numbers . in 2000 i had a 7 year loan and i had the car for 14 years and over 300K. and that was on a 5 yr old car. i never had a new car before. but due to job circumstances i drive 33K a year and so i needed new to start out with. i run cars into the ground and maintain them. value of a car has zero meaning to me and to be honest i dont understand why people want their car to keep value or worry about depreciation. you buy a car cause you like it. and you should keep it. not trade every 3 years. to me thats silly. it's a commodity to be used up. (unless its an old split rear window vette) just as silly as people think i am for having 7 year payments and keeping a car until it literally falls apart. its all about perspective. i have 147 on the car now and i just need it to last another 200K. then i'm done. retired. so 6 more years on this car and i dont mind paying a bit more plus i dont forget, with my decrease in expenses in 2020 i can basically pay it off right away if i wanted to. this is all about less in pymts for the next 2 years. thats it . period. only downfall is the gap insurance thing as far as i can see. unless someone can tell me i can get a new car loan with my 603 score for sure. even then theres that 3800 in the trans which must be paid back regardless of what i do . so to me it doesnt make sense to ever walk away with the car, not that the decision really would be mine in that circumstance. also the real purpose of this is to discover pitfalls other than interest/gap insurance/breakdown are there any other pitfalls i'm missing
  6. to be clear it would be 7 to 8, not 10
  7. i'm 4 years past that when i signed up for a 7 year :) plus i have a decrease in my expenses in 2 years so then can easily pay down/off. and i put 3800 into the trans and gotta pay that off regardless. i cannot see "not" putting money into the car. i cannot walk away from that 3800 payment as its sunk cost which must be paid off. to get another car and then pay this 3800 still seems foolish to me. what do you think? heck in 2 years i can afford a porsche but i gotta get though the next 2 years somehow which is the goal of reducing my monthly payment now without regard to interest. the allure of walking away is literally the only thing even keeping me hesitating from pulling the trigger now. another thing to consider is can i even get a car loan if i walk away with this today? dont they ask questions like that when you go to refi. did you ever have a car repoed? or will no further negativity show up on my CR ever again no matter what i do with this car and it wont affect future lending if i walk away today? see i dont think anyone would lend me money for another car for the next 2 years but i guess only way to know is to apply for a loan. my discover FICO is 603
  8. i knew it was a longshot and i wish i had someway to make them see the light that it would help me but they dont care about you as a person. just a number lol cap 1 did prequalify me shockingly. 110 bucks less a month a of course more interest in the end but i may snag it. only question i dont know answer to is does the gap insurance cover me from the other loan or is it tied to that loan only? i know now even though i'm under water i can walk away with zero negatives on the credit report. but if i get a new loan then something happens i know that could be tricky.
  9. so no leverage with the current lender either i assume? i guess they already wrote it off so any money now is gravy for them? just would be 'nice' of them to help me out. but i guess no benefit making this basically an 'affirmation' now at this point.
  10. nope plain ole luxury family american sedan. main goal is getting monthly payment down and i really would love to do it
  11. crazy question but just curious. in 2014 IIB my 2014 car. from all accounts on this forum car loans are one of the easiest to get after BK. so here we are 4 years later. i'd love to lower the 5.5 rate i got at 530 a month and i think the balance is around 16K now and it was 7 year loan. i know its a sin to do this with discharged debt but as i just put 3800 into the transmission. i wont be getting rid of the car anytime soon even though it has 147K on it. i usually take my cars up to 300K at least. so just wondering if citizens would possibly refi me or if a CUs may look at me or thats just too high mileage. psecu fico was 649 last month but they dont loan until after 5 years out of BK. it's a very high mileage car and thats why i was hoping the initial bank may want to work with me to help me stay in the car so to speak. or just a crazy idea?
  12. luckydriver

    Finally starting to move up... Paypal Mastercard approval

    i get some decent gift cards because i buy so much gas with the card. u should check out the rewards before drawering the card.
  13. i'm not 59 yet ive had a roth for a very long time and have taken out contributions when certain things have come up. i know all these are tax free since i'm just taking my money out that i put in. however ive been reading up and irs says Ordering Rules for Distributions: Regular contributions. Conversion and rollover contributions, on a first-in, first-out basis (generally, total conversions and rollovers from the earliest year first). See Aggregation (grouping and adding) rules, later. Take these conversion and rollover contributions into account as follows: Taxable portion (the amount required to be included in gross income because of the conversion or rollover) first, and then the Nontaxable portion. Earnings on contributions. so does this mean that earnings can be taken out without penalty and just pay ordinary tax? pretty sure answer is no but this is the 1st time ive delved into the actual rules. ive done pretty well regarding market fluctuation over the years and actually have more in that then total contributions. id love to take a bit more out but i'm up against the amount ive contributed. but looking to take out more. (i dont mind the tax just dont want the penalty) maybe by example let me make up some numbers in relative proportion: Beginning Value $50 Additions $1100 Deductions $1080 Income $150 Market Fluctuation $1300 Ending Value $1300 Change in Value $1300 my total contributions in this example are 1100. i've taken out 1080 so not anything left to take out which i know is 100% tax/penalty free. can any part of the income or market fluctuation be taking out without penalty? i guess i'm lucky that the market over time has given me all my money back and more cause i took some big chunks out in the past but now i have more than i put in ever after taking it all out.
  14. 99.45% sure that answer is no but i wanted to ask anyway presume requesting CLI would be silly as well but i wanted to ask anyway

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