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PS2020

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  1. I'm still within the SOL to be sued by Chase, but they haven't taken any action and I technically owe them over 6k in total. If I get sued, I get sued, and I'll deal with it then, but currently I'm not too worried about it, mainly because I don't even have the money to pay them if I wanted to. Why worry myself over something I can't do anything about at the moment anyways, you know? Again, I don't mean this flippantly, just as a realist. Basically if I start work again and/or I get a nice windfall, I should pay in full, as opposed to a partial settlement. That makes a lot of sense. I'd rather not give anyone anything if it's not going to actually help my credit, you know? At that point I might as well just wait until they fall off. Hope this helps?? This is EXACTLY what I needed, thank you so much!!!! This makes a lot of sense and it helps me lay down a foundation for what I should be doing. Essentially just work with the original creditors, don't really bother with the CAs. I guess the next question would be, is there a situation where I should work with the CA over the original creditor? I'm definitely putting chase on the back burner for now, but I think when I get the stimulus I'll hit up AMEX and see if I can mend that relationship and just start paying down my Discover card. I would LOVE to get rid of my onemain loan because that's 320 a month i'd save, but the payoff is currently around 7k and I can't afford that right now. For me, my ultimate goal, like 5-10 years from now, is to basically not rely on credit anymore and just save money and invest properly. I didn't chug the Dave Ramsey koolaid, but I do think it's better to just not be in debt if I can help it. I don't think I'll get rid of my Discover card. I regret messing up my Sapphire card, but I'm not entirely sure if I want to get another AMEX card once I settle things with them. I have lots of work to do!
  2. Thank you! I researched it a bit more, and it sounds like you're correct, but no one can explain why it's ok for the online report to be different from the mail in one. You'd figure that's illegal, but it sounds like it just is what it is, hahah. It sounds like I need to call them directly and pay for the reports individually to get them via snail mail, so I'll set aside some time to do that soon. I need to do my wife's too. This was around last year, and yeah I was surprised. I wanted to give them money, I had a bank account my wife and I setup together that we both contribute to household expenses and bills and whatnot, but for some reason they wouldn't budge. They kept telling me "You violated the agreement and we can't do any thing for you now unless you want to pay like twice or more the monthly payments", and at the time that wasn't feasible, and they just kept being really rude about it, so I hung up on them. The debt is so small that I'd have no problem working something out with them, but I don't know who to contact exactly. Is there a number for the EO? All I have asked with my topic is how to deal with the charge offs. You are the one who is making both assumptions and judgements about my current financial capabilities. I have several thousand dollars in savings right now, we live within our means, i'm currently unemployed thanks to the pandemic but i'm hoping that'll turn around next year, but I've been saving much of my unemployment benefits, and it seems like the next stimulus and Unemployment Benefits will help my family out quite a bit, and my wife and I would have no problem putting any extra stimulus money into handling these charge offs if it seems feasible. Either that, or the money goes right into savings, and we'll continue to live within our means while I help take care of my son who's turning a year old in december. Yes, I made poor choices years ago. Now i'm trying to fix them. I didn't ask you for a lecture, I asked the forum how to handle the charges off, because I DON'T KNOW WHO I SHOULD BE PAYING OR HOW TO GET THAT BALL ROLLING. Furthermore, I don't know if it's in my best interest to wake up those dogs sleeping dogs if I don't need to just yet. Is it possible to convince them for a pay for deletion agreement? What would look worse on my CR to a mortgage lender 1-3 years from now: Charge off, Partial payment, or full payment? Do I start attacking these things immediately, or do I wait until I get new collection letters and work with them? Do I ever work with the CAs or just contact the original companies I owe money with? If I pay the collector, will that help get the charge off ridden from my CR? You see what I mean? There's like a million questions that I want to ask, but instead I wanted to get the ball rolling by listing my situation and asking for advice. I'm not planning on fixing this right now or even this year (unless there's something feasible I can do right now to help), but I want to get as much information I can, so if the stimulus comes through, or I get a new job, or a windfall, or etc etc, I can get the ball rolling immediately SO that I can perhaps get a loan in the next couple of years. If I can't then so be it, but knowing what my options are sooner than later can only help my situation. I currently have a loan with Onemain, formerly Springleaf, that i've been paying off for years. I also have a discover card that I had an issue with back in 2016, but they set me up with a payment plan, which I paid, and they let me keep the card, which I'm currently paying off as well. High utilization though, i'm not a fan of that, but it is what it is. Would it benefit me more to pay these down or off, or to take care of the charge offs/CA first? I am capable of not shooting myself in the foot further just fine, since you're more concerned about that than my initial question.
  3. You are being ridiculous rude without knowing the full situation. I'm responding to your posts for the sake of clarifying things, but if you're going to be condescending, I'd rather you just not post in the topic anymore. If I wanted to deal with condescending unhelpful people, I'd answer some of these collection calls. First off, the issue was not petty. I tried to change it on the website, but when I removed my bank account, it would not let me change it to the new one, or even back to the old one. When I called them up, they told me that they can't do anything now that I deleted the bank account from their website. THEY were the ones being petty. Secondly, I could not keep that bank account open because it was an old account I've had for years with a family member, and given both of our financial statuses, we decided it would be best to just close the account. Thirdly, that last comment was completely uncalled for, but I will respond to it anyways: I never said I couldn't handle 2 CCs. My situation has since changed, which is why I ASKED ON THIS FORUM TO BEGIN WITH. I am not asking how am I supposed to come up with the money, I'm asking HOW to deal with these charge offs, because I literally don't know WHO to give the money to in hopes of getting these removed from my credit report, IF that's even possible. You see, I am new to this, which is why I'm asking here. I'm sorry if my ignorance on the subject deeply offends you.
  4. I don't remember how old they were, but they definitely weren't old enough to be dropped off my credit report like that. My credit troubles started in 2016 I'm looking at the online reports. There's a difference between those and the paper copies? I did my reports through the annual credit report website. As far as Amex goes, I should have mentioned (I'll update my post to reflect this), I WAS on a payment program with them, however I changed banks, and they wouldn't let me switch over the account where the money gets pulled from for some reason, so I basically told them "if you don't want to switch the bank accounts over then you don't want my money then, bye". As far as the chase accounts go though, that's what has me confused; Upon researching, October 2018 was the first month I defaulted (last payment was September 2018) for both chase cards. And no worries about sounding like a broken record; i'm just confused as far as the reports goes because I didn't know there was a difference between the PDF the site gives you and the paper version. How do I go about getting the paper versions? I was on a payment plan with Amex, but I forgot to mention there was a whole thing that lead to me stop paying them. I laid it out in the response above this one, but i'll edit the main post to reflect what happened. The DOFD is definitely not 2013 though, so I'm not sure what happened there. I guess time will tell! I have no problem paying off the smaller ones, but I don't know who to pay, especially if they've been charged off. Should I just go to Chase/Amex directly and tell them "Hey, this is what I want to do"? or do I have to validate the debt and figure out who is currently holding it? In response to the first delinquency, that's what's odd because October 2018 was the first delinquency date for both chase cards. It probably is a typo, but i'm not gonna correct it for them!
  5. Heya, found this forum through a Reddit recommendation and have been thumbing through it for the past few days, and wanted to thank you all for the information you all post! I'm still kind of new to this, so I'm trying to best figure out how to handle my situation and could use some advice. The wife and I are thinking of home ownership in the next year or two so i'm trying to fix my side of the credit now. I THOUGHT I had several things in collections (frankly I should), but according to my credit reports from the big 3, I don't. Hell, I had 7 negative accounts back in january, but I checked again with annual credit report and I currently just have 3 accounts with negative marks. There's a 4th card that Experian and TU report, which is my Discount Tire (SYNCB/CAR CARE DISC TIRE), BUT it reports it as lost/stolen for some reason, even though I never did such a thing. REGARDLESS, I'll deal with that one if and when I need to (unless you have advice you'd like to give on that). I want to focus on the 3 that show up on all 3 credit reports. I'm not sure which Credit Report to go with as far as figuring out dates and stuff, because they're all kind of slightly different, so I'll mainly go with Experian: Amex - Payment Status - Charged Off Status Updated - September 2019 Balance - $559 Past Due Amount - $352 Balance Updated - September 18 2020 (Equifax) Delinquency First Reported - Sep 01, 2019 (Trans Union) Estimated month and year that this item will be removed - 06/2022 Chase Sapphire - Payment Status - Charged Off Status Updated - April 2019 Balance - $5,693 Past Due Amount - $5,693 Balance Updated - April 22 2019 (Equifax) Delinquency First Reported Apr 01, 2019 (Trans Union) Estimated month and year that this item will be removed - 12/2020 Chase Amazon - Payment Status - Charged Off Status Updated - April 2019 Balance - $730 Past Due Amount - $730 Balance Updated - April 22 2019 (Equifax) Delinquency First Reported Apr 01, 2019 (Trans Union) Estimated month and year that this item will be removed - 09/2025 I'm not sure why my sapphire says it'll be removed (allegedly of course) by the end of this year, because it's a higher debt and it wasn't paid the same time the chase amazon card wasn't, so that's where i'm confused. In fact, i'm just very confused in general, because I know I had more cards than this that I defaulted on unfortunately. I know you all heard every single "life was difficult" story, so please don't take my lack of elaborating as not caring about my mistakes, because I do deeply care; i'd just rather not bore you all with the same story you've heard before. SO I guess my question would be what is the best way of going about dealing with these 3 negative marks? I've gotten phone calls and letters for years and just never answer or respond to them. In fact, i'm sitting on a letter from Nationwide Credit in regards to my Chase Sapphire card from a couple weeks ago. Do I even bother dealing with letters from Nationwide Credit for example? Should I ignore those completely and go straight to the Original Creditors? If so, how do I even start that conversation? I'm in Illinois so I know the SOL is 5 years, which is why some of the "Estimated time this item will be removed" is confusing to me. Anyways, thank you all for your time! If you need more info or if I asked in the wrong place, I'm deeply sorry! I just don't know where to start.

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