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CreditGuy100

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  1. You ask and then you keep asking for a decision maker. Yes, you'll get some push back from the tier one person you're dealing with, they're gatekeepers . . . they're trained to keep you away from the supervisors and the managers. If you can't get past a particular gatekeeper, you call back later and talk to a different tier one person . . . you have to invest some time and effort - if it was EASY and WORK FREE everyone would be doing it. Often times when you ask for a supervisor, the tier one person will say something like, "You just tell me and I'll present it to my supervisor." You interject, something like, "That's fine, but if the answer is no to my percentage proposal then you tell your supervisor that I need to speak to them directly." If the answer is yes, you got the percentage you wanted and you're done - if it's no then you get a supervisor. This technique sometimes gets you a YES to your offer just because the supervisor doesn't want to get on the phone with you, EITHER WAY it's a win !!! Additionally, you can ask for the name of their supervisor during one call as part of pleasant talk and then call back at a different time and ask for that person. Tell the new tier one person you got the supervisor's name from another CSR at the company and you were told that was the person you needed to talk to for a decision on your particular situation. You can say something like, "The last person I spoke with said that I needed to speak with the supervisor, Jim, or something like that I think was his name - is that right? Is it Jim or some other common name?" Be creative and you'll get there with a little effort.
  2. I got Chase BT checks 2x BEFORE Christmas. But, today I got them from two other cards. Tis the season is right.
  3. There may be an upside, a silver lining, to this news. I think they've loosened their credit card lending criteria a bit to help make the graph go the other direction. An instant approval for me on 1-13-20 for a $12K SL card. And, an instant approval for my just turned 18 y.o. daughter, a college student, with her third card AND her highest limit thus far, a $1500 SL approved last week
  4. While I think that most of the info in the article about rising scores according to Experian and the reasons for their rise are probably correct . . . I wonder if their "Experian Boost" program has contributed to Experian's scores specifically being higher than ever? I've seen it make scores drop, rise a little and rise significantly by helping folks use Experian Boost. If it drops your score, you just opt out and your score goes back to where it was before.
  5. I used to have decent luck with CapOne by calling the Executive Offices if someone had ONE 30 day late. Getting a goodwill removal worked maybe 40% . . . sometimes by calling back several times until getting to the right person. I like everyone else used to abuse the Executive Office folks with/for CLI requests when the automated system turned someone down, me included, and was VERY SUCCESSFUL until they created a policy for the Executive Offices to stop doing any CLI requests (I'm sure it was 90% of their day - perhaps an exaggeration, but it was all over the various Internet credit sites that that was the way to get a CLI . . . and indeed the only way I EVER got a decent CLI outta CapOne was by calling the Executive Office) B of A has no goodwill and lost one client with a number of HUGE accounts, because they wouldn't do a goodwill removal for a friend of mine with otherwise perfect history. And, the ONE 30 day late was arguably their fault at least partially their fault. Started with a CSR, then to supervisor, then a manager, on to their ombudsman, then to the the VP and then finally a letter to the President and still no goodwill. My friend left B of A and put them on his personal blacklist of banks to never do business with. He literally had millions in business with them. This is my one and only goodwill attempt with B of A and they walked away from literally $$$ millions over a refusal of one 30 day goodwill removal. I have no experience with goodwill removal and Citi. Hope that helps and others have more info to share.
  6. I pretty much gave you the run down based on what I know of your situation. Again, I have NEVER dealt with NFCU, but if the replies in this post are correct they blacklist you for life. It's ALWAYS BEST to get to someone above tier one contact level, a decision maker, a lead or a manager . . . talk to them a few times, explain your family giving you the money situation, perhaps without any specific dollar amounts in the beginning, a great reason to call back. Invest some time with them and they invest some time with you AND THIS BETTERS your chances of them working with you . . . they don't want you to get away paying nothing after they've invested time and effort with you - and, again, ONE 5 minute call isn't gonna make this happen. Second call, start to talk a lower percentage available from your family, maybe 7% all they can say is no that's not enough, but perhaps they'll counter-offer with something lower than you're at now . . . then come back having eeked out a few more dollars from your family . . . BUT, at some point that's all your family will give you and if you can't get all your creditors to agree, then no one gets paid. REMEMBER, as the delinquency ages, it becomes less likely to collect and therefore less valuable in the eyes of Chase. Rarely, do they file suit (at least in my state) unless they're the ONE card you're not paying and you're paying ALL you other cards/payments on time . . . showing that you HAVE money and you're just not giving it to them. The worse shape your CRAs are in the better when negotiating - it means there's no money for the creditor to come after and therefore no reason to file suit against you. Best of luck and remember the worst thing they can say to any offer you make is . . . no! And, no just means your DOFD is too new or your percentage is too low in comparison to your DOFD aging. No means no right now in this moment, but next month today's no, might be a yes or a lower percentage offer.
  7. @cv91915 cracking me up with the $25.49 spends to get your $ worth out of that annual fee. WAY TO GO
  8. @Area Man you post such interesting stuff. Are you retired? Where do you find the time?
  9. @pronto is correct. I guess it all depends on how much you'll use it. I used to travel with 267ish nights per year in hotels and I was top status with many different brands: Hilton and Hyatt among them . . . and, YES, that top status DOES make your stays a different, much more pleasant experience. So, if the SUB and the $450 annual fee are really worth it TO YOU then go for it. But, if the $4K spend is problematic then definitely not the right offer for you at this time.
  10. NOT my just turned 18 y.o. daughter's new $1500 CL Wells Fargo Bank College Card that I was expecting to arrive today. But, I did get one of those fake check looking mailers with the promise of a $70,500 loan to free myself of high credit card interest debt with their rates as low as 3.86% - LOL
  11. @Area Man that was an interesting share. I was approved for a new AMEX yesterday and they gave me the option of IMMEDIATELY adding it to my choice of several wallets. I don't really use contactless payments, but do have Samsung Pay (I think I signed up for it quite some time back in order to get some reward they were offering). I was able to add the minutes old card/account instantly to my Samsung Pay by scanning a QR Code displayed on my computer screen. $10K CL immediately, $15K upon arrival of the physical card. I thought, "This is 100% for the Millennials!" (apparently the Gen Z's too).
  12. Long time lurker, but this is my first day posting on this site. I have used the creditpulls database extensively over the years to the benefit of myself and MANY others, BUT, now I thought it was time to contribute, The settlement percentages you're talking about are not all that bad . . . if you can afford to pay them. Lump sum is better for the lower settlement percentage. As your debt ages it continues to become worth less and less, making lower settlement percentages easier for you to get. In 2015 one of the folks that I worked with settled Chase at 15% once the debt reached a little over 18 months after DOFD. Much further back either 2008 or 2009 I had one person I was working with complete a Chase settlement at 8%, but it was a hefty dollar amount, they'd maxed a card with a $25K or $26K CL and they were beyond 36 months after DOFD and our state's credit card debt SOL is 4 years. I have never dealt with NFCU regarding a settlement for myself nor someone else, so I cannot speak to their acceptable settlement percentages. Telling them you're going to BK is probably NOT your best move. It's like a customer walking out of the car dealership after talking to the salesman for 15 minutes with a take it or leave it offer . . . they've seen it before (you're not the first one who has thought about trying it). As a rookie many years ago I tried this with AMEX and they meant to put me on hold, but I could hear their conversation. It was the "manager" talking to his boss (or maybe they were scamming me???) and this was after MANY PHONE CALLS back and forth, where BOTH they and I had time invested. You can't get these done with the best rate a 1 phone call (at least I haven't been able to). But, their discussion went something like this . . . If he's going to file bankruptcy $1K one way or the other is not going to make a difference on his BK decision . . . so, let's ask him for a HIGHER settlement amount. We ended up about $1000.00 higher than I was offering, but still got a great settlement. Oh, how I would have handled it different with the knowledge I have today AND NO I WOULD NOT MENTION THE BK while negotiating a settlement. @Centex is right save the BK if they file suit. If you want a story to run with, you might be better off stating that your family is "giving" you the money to settle your debts. It's not your money and you only have X amount they're willing to give you to settle ALL your debts. If you can't settle ALL your debts with that amount of $, then there's no sense in getting the money from your family in the first place. The other thing is invest some time with ONE contact person, they won't want you to go away without any payment after they have time invested in you, BUT again that is NOT a one-phone-call-to-get-it-done thing.

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