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  1. Home Depot - Spend $50 or more, get $50 back, up to 2x (total of $100). Online only. Finally used this one. A $115 purchased triggered the full $100 credit.
  2. Chase won’t approve you for a second Sapphire card (either variant) if you currently have one open. So PC the current card as CTSoxFan suggested. Once it shows as converted to the new card you should be fine to apply. Worst case, wait until the first statement cuts after the PC.
  3. I wouldn’t give up hope on this card just yet. I applied for an Ink card about three weeks ago and got the same response (although they only pulled EX for me). I got a call a couple days later from their fraud/verification department making sure it was actually me that applied. I verified my identity and was approved with a $26K CL. Same thing happened with the previous Ink card. Seems to be SOP right now. Put a lot on the card then request a CLI the day you get your third statement (pay the card off before requesting the CLI).
  4. Paying the OC directly was the correct way to approach this. Hopefully you have a confirmation number or receipt for the payment. Here’s a post that should help you: Wrote does not equal sent. Perhaps try helping people here instead of being an ass. Also, arbitration isn’t the answer to everything.
  5. You also get access to Delta Sky Clubs when flying on Delta. Also, you can downgrade to green if you want, although I see far more benefit in the gold card. Those credits were replaced with a monthly $15 PayPal credit.
  6. Sounds like OP did a BT when opening the account. So unless they have a viable option to either pay off the balance or transfer it elsewhere there will be a major utilization hit against their FICO scores should the card be closed. If everything stated on the application is true and verifiable, it makes sense to comply with the request.
  7. This is one of the best ways to make Amex mad. The T&C of every new card SUB states that you must keep the card for a full year.
  8. Chase Sapphire Preferred $15.7K SUB: 80k UR for $4k spend in first 3 months Chase Ink Cash $6k SUB: 75k UR for $7.5K spend in first 3 months
  9. I’ll revise my previous comment from “every time” to “quite often.” Clearly CV hasn’t had this issue. But it’s a known occurrence, especially in MS and churning circles. Amex is basically offering you a SUB that you wouldn’t otherwise qualify for when they offer an upgrade. The common guidance is to upgrade, then once the next AF hits, downgrade again. The AF is refundable for the first 30 days after it’s charged, then prorated after that. I also play it a bit safe on upgrade/downgrade shenanigans. But that’s because the amount I can easily MS far outweighs any AF I may have to pay from an upgrade.
  10. Medical collections are how I found my way here originally. It’s not as black and white with medical. I discovered medical collections on my reports when attempting to finance a new car. After some digging, I found that it was for services rendered to me but was supposed to be paid by insurance. I had paid my copay. The provider dropped the ball on submitting to insurance and was therefore only partially paid by the insurance company. And I never received anything stating that the provider thought I owed them anything.
  11. Congrats! With a FICO of 755 and no negatives, you shouldn’t have a problem qualifying for most cards available. You should choose a card with a cashback/rewards program that fits your spending profile. What do you value most? Cash back, airline miles, hotel points, transferable points (MR, UR, etc.)?
  12. Generally, when you use your cashback/rewards for a gift card the redemption rate isn’t good. Usually less than 1CPP. I use Amex because I can rack up a ton of MR points that I can use for free travel. Well, I did during the pre-COVID times. Hopefully I can resume that sometime soon. If you go the cashback route, don’t settle for less than 2% with no AF.
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