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  1. Sounds like a glitch. If your full report from somewhere like the actual CRA doesn't show it then it doesn't exist.
  2. I'd take the points and run. I wasn't too keen on MR's and jumped on the 50K SUB they were giving out just because it was double on the PRG when I checked existing member offers for new cards. Cash equiv on MR's though are only 60%/$ GC's can be 100% and of course travel exceeds 100%. Hotels typically are $125/night in most cases for something acceptable in a decent area. If you take the 75K SUB you can always cancel out the AF for 2nd year with a downgrade to HH and keep the points. I typically look for 1st year waived AF cards when looking at SUB's since they tend to eat into the profit of the bonus. I don't keep up with the HH series though in general.
  3. Well, the bank americard is only useful for BT's for extended periods of time. They don't accumulate any rewards at all. Instead of converting maybe give them a call and combine them instead with keeping the older of the 2 as the recipient and if that happens to be the americard then convert it to cash rewards. If you're not looking to add to your collection this should suffice. As others have mentioned if you end up taking a HP it might be worthwhile to look at their current offerings for a SUB that's enticing enough to collect $200+ out of the deal and collapse that new card into your cash rewards later on.
  4. Fasting? Nah, it's more like you get as much credit when you don't need it so you have it when you do need it and it doesn't hurt as much when you use it. It's nice to be in the position to make it work for you as well. Collecting SUB's and expanding your portfolio for a negligible score change feels better than toy limits and turd terms.
  5. AMEX doesn't do COSTCO anymore. There re plenty of options though for Amex and Amex co-brand cards. Most cards are fine for a couple of years of non-use before they close them for inactivity. Synch cards can tolerate 18-24 months before they close them out. Care Credit though will close at about 12 months of inactivity. Chase sent me a non-renewal for inactivity of one card for ~18 months of inactivity after being open for 10 years. Using a card every 6-12 months at a minimum should keep them all open and aging. If you want to keep them in a drawer you can use them on Amazon to reload the gift card for any amount just to show activity.
  6. Always aim high when you're asking for a CLI. Amex is known to be 3X your current CL and I've played BOA roulette for 50K every time I hit the button knowing they will counter if it's too much. Went from 10K to 18.8K to 31.1K with both CLI's asking for 50K each time. Now that's it's a SP and I'm within 20K of 50K I'll step it up to 75K on the next request to leave room to counter since they have shown they will hit 100K with persistence, It's kind of like spending time calling CS for Sync cards and only asking for 10K when you know they'll go way beyond to 25-35K or more on some of their cards.
  7. A little tidbit of info RE this. I got my 7-10 paper today and it had a fresh FICO of 811 on it which is higher than the previous month online one they hand out. Reason as expected though was "too many recent credit requests" aka didn't wait long enough. Still no HP showing from the request date but, interesting they actually SP on demand and provided the score.
  8. It takes Disco a bit of time to clean things up on your account once it converts. Give it 2 weeks and try again and then just try it once a month until you figure out the CLI timing.
  9. The verbiage on the CLI page didn't change. Probably won't change just so they can CYA if they change their mind. Also, on MF some are reporting the 7-10 message and then coming back and finding a CLI approval when they login later in the day. *****Bookmark the link if you don't want to hunt for it or wait for it to pop up .... I did this months ago and it brings me to the page when logged in whether or not they decide to post it on the account summary. I'll just have to put them down to try again when the March CLI gets to 90 days to see just how far they'll go. They seem to be pretty good once you get the ball rolling considering some of the posts I've seen over the years.
  10. Tried it this morning after checking MF for thread updates with mixed results but, no one reporting HP's as of 2-3 attempts. Hit the button and got the 7-10 message which I kind of expected anyway since it's only been 2 months since the last one. NO HP showed up on a manual TU report request as it normally does right away.
  11. Same for me I got a CLI in March and link is already back. BP - https://ficoforums.myfico.com/t5/Credit-Cards/BOA-to-stop-HPs-for-CLI-s/m-p/5252502#M1552323 I find this one interesting where he's able to hit them up every 3 months with success yet us mortals get a HP w/o the reward.
  12. If only other lenders would jump on the wagon. BOA isn't too bad for a HP though when it comes to amount but, some of these other jokers are ridiculous like Chase / Citi. Chase will give you a 5K CLI but, will approve you for a new account over 25K and Citi just seems stingy upon opening but, if you're willing to take another HP when you have the card in hand you can squeeze another 5K out of them. BTW The link for BOA showed up a couple of days ago even though I just hit them up 2 months ago for another 12K. Last time I did the HP back in Sept it showed up again 3 months later and denied due to recent CLI. SP is welcome to avoid the HP if you're not timing it right instead of potentially not being able to get an approval somewhere else due to # of inquiries.
  13. CJ Once you cut the first couple of cards and take a hard look at why you're holding onto the other turds it gets easier. Credit is a mental game when it comes to the choices we make with it. Being sentimental about certain cards doesn't always help. You can still take some putty and put it up on the wall even when it's closed but, if your strategy is changing then it's time to make a move. If you're playing the game right you protect your oldest 2 accounts to keep your AAOA intact. Store cards get weeded out if you're not using them regularly when they get shutdown on their own or you make the decision to kill them off to make room in your drawer. Some things to look at most likely in a spreadsheet: age CL AF last use
  14. A good way to whittle them down going forward is pick one you want to kick to the curb before applying for its replacement. For instance if you're eyeing up CSP for the 50K SUB then you pick say your Merrick to close out. If you want another Amex then consider dropping another unused or AF card to kill off in return. If you at least start with this you'll juggle less than holding onto the useless and adding the new ones. It takes some strategy and planning though moving forward. In the last year I picked up 9 cards, killed 3, and have another 3 I'm planning on killing off in the next couple of months. Leaving another 3 that need to get me back to a net gain of 0. When I killed 3 last June I picked up 3 from Chase/BOA for ~$45K and dropped ~$15K in obsolete cards in return. The 3 new cards have grown with CLI's considerably in the past year and are now worth 77K. Quality over quantity is worthwhile once you get to the point of rolling the dice on apps isn't such a gamble any longer like it starts out as. Just spend some time reading up on lender particulars like 5/24 for Chase, 1/8/65 for Citi, BOA's scheme for approvals. If you fine something niche like a legacy FNBO be aware they like low inquiries and don't budge on recons. If you go through US Bank and don't get auto approved make sure you call them to see what the status is with a live person. I got auto denied for 6 inquiries with them and called and they did a manual review for an approval but followed up again and got a CLI out of them on the same app HP. If you're going to spend the time figuring out your next acquisition then take the time to make sure it's a good approval amount you can live with while meeting any SUB requirements. For SUB's I usually try to time them when I know I'm spending X $'s on something already like Taxes, Insurance, Projects and not having to go out of the way to spend extra to get that bonus. It's not hard to rack up a couple of grand in cash bonuses if they're timed right. Once you hit those bigger SUB's though you have to get creative in finding the higher value ones that aren't so popular.
  15. I must be the exception to the rule when it comes to Disco. Hege has had issues and a far better profile getting over 36K with them. I opened mine at $4500 when everyone else was 15K+ with scores and income in the same realm. I took it on as a project to tinker with and within 18 months bumped it up to 50K with minimal use each month. Disco isn't for everyone but, if you have some patience it can be worthwhile in the long run even with the benefits axed recently it's nice to know it's there to use if you need it for a backup. They have some decent offers for BT's and deals online that add up especially during the first year when your spend rewards get doubled.

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