Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Zanshiro

  1. Making credit work for you moment: Took a $10k @ 0% cash advance/$0 fee BT, put it into an I-series govt bond. 8%+ return for the 0% investment to pay off before the end of the time period. Nothing like making $800 with other people's money and next to no effort....I need more arbitrage in my life like that. But, probably will drop the score into the 780 range. Oops?
  2. Final update for foreseeable future -- FICO's now ALMOST 800+ across the board. TU & EQ both here....however, that odd EX irregularity where they don't show my 2nd oldest card (No longer active, though the other two still show it) apparently makes about 11 points difference, as EX slacking off at 799. Ah well, I'll take that as my 'problem' to deal with.
  3. Since it wouldn't add image for me, let's try a new post. This one commemorates my time on CB, ignore that first major-down, that's when it wasn't factoring home value into the net worth. And there's a high up-hump near 2019 when I refinanced where it showed paid off like two months before the new one got updated....but other than this, this is trending positively, so it's a mark just to show people that if you make a plan, and stick to your plan...you WILL get there.
  4. As for the now-annual updates, because well, new job and changes but fun and progress. CC Debt 0% floats: 8,500 fresh through 03/2023 currently Mortgage: 97.9k @ 15yr initial @2.35% Bathroom Loan: paid off Emergency accounts/investment rebuild: ~6k liquid, 71k various 401ks were consolidated so I can ALMOST get to that bonus CV styled with BofA and that nice rewards card, which I did pick up. Roth IRA: 45k, Traditional 15k, ForEx/Commodity account to learn: 2k. Currently about 1900/mo liquid to invest. That said, with the credit scores likely in the 800+ range again (8,500/19,000 limit on the one card at 0%) and 8,500/597,000 overall util) What's the best move from here? I just maxed my 6k to my Roth contribution for this year, so that's all set. My personal line of thinking is to try to max out the 17k 401k contribution next, which I have about 50/50 split of my current 7% there. Mind you, this job's currently about a 50% pay cut from my last job, until I get all the licenses and such required to promote. But it's in my degree field and I enjoy it. That said, should I try to bump that up to about 20% withholding and see how it goes from there as best practice? Current FICO 08s are adjusting as the 12.5k CD came out, and only 1 CC remains, so I'll update this later. Took new job, such my limits on posting now, but now working in the finance field which I've wanted to do since I was a wee pup.
  5. So, a co-worker of mine I'll name John Doe asked me for help when he saw how often I helped clients get bad credit improved to be able to get out of worse situations with vehicles and wot-wot. Long story short, John had an issue a few years back with a divorce, and the ex ran up CCs before they split, and they were in his name. Her lawyers basically had him eat his own sausage so to speak, and now he's trying to recover his credit to get his daughter and himself a better future. I mostly sent him through triage and setup processes, and he's worked to write letters, most of which have been very effective, until we got to one of my least favorite PITAs to read about that I was glad I'd never had to deal with - LVNV Funding, which it appears bought some of that alleged debt from Comenity Bank via Buckle/VS/etc. I advised him to write one of the letters without acknowledging it to counteroffer to pay for delete, which was certified and sent to LVNV....about a week later, he got a letter from "Schrier, Tolin, & Wagman, LLC" which appears a collection law firm. So that was responded to that the account in question had been in dispute with the credit bureaus via Comenity when the letter from LVNV was received, and sent them a copy of the letter as well as LVNV's counsel as they stated they were. Two more weeks pass, and he's had no direct contact or reply, but a letter now comes from Resurgent Capital regarding the same accounts stating that if no response was received in 30 days, it would be assumed valid....so after all the prior, THEN they sent out the contact that would be time for DV? I'm just boggling at this point...and really that should fall under some sort of consumer protection ethos, but it's beyond my grasp, because I *think* the same company (Sherman) owns LVNV & Resurgent, but don't know about the lawyer office. Treading carefully since he's about 8 months inside statute of limitations, what would his best move next be? Assuming to reply to that 30-day letter despite prior replies to essentially the same company, what a pain. I did look up the CC agreements on the CFPB board, and they do allow arbitration, so I don't know if that's something he should go with now or at least make preparations for. And since I don't want my personal link here passed around to fellow employees, yes, I'm acting as a go-between >_>
  6. Guess I'm a bit late on my quarterly updates...I suppose I should make them tri-annually instead? CC Debt 0% floats: 11,550 currently (Hopefully can get these zeroed with a few good commissions before need to next flip happens, 12m and counting) Mortgage: 104k @ 15yr initial @2.35% Bathroom Loan: 2.9k @ 6.99% (pre-rebate) remaining - down from 10.9k, accelerated paydowns with the longer term for cushion "just in case" Emergency accounts/investment rebuild: ~9k liquid, 55.7k various 401ks (Correction from last post, too, with amounts roth vs regular) Work prime -19k Roth, 8.5k standard), 17k TD Ameritrade - 12k Roth/5k IRA, 11.2k M1 Finance - 10k Roth. 1k IRA, 200 taxable (Required for referral, lulz). 12k @ 1.55% 12-month CD w/11 months to release (I forgot to cancel the auto-renew and payoff cards, but meh. But the interest rolls into the 4.85% savings, so I'm not really mad -_-). Current FICO 08s: 791 TU/795 EQ/793 EX As this loan is paid off and cards are cleared, will take next steps of fixing house further, but from a better position. Nothing else is "must fix" right now, as I like living in the fixer-uppers as they get worked on and then sell and go. I did let my PT job go for the time being as I'm looking to move into a new job with the changes that have hit at my primary workplace. So that's a bit of a limit to 'hustle income' but hopefully get situated somewhere new following my degree soon, and can pick up a PT afterwards again.
  7. DP - Coworker got LVNV collection from Comenity also, so I don't think they're too exclusive.
  8. I'll just add -- This can help you target starting points to attack: https://creditboards.com/forums/index.php?/topic/357257-cc-spreadsheet-for-open-office/ Fill it in and watch with wonder. On to the other goal you mentioned, however, the two "New" cards being in the 90%+ range pretty much preclude you from getting another BT offer or many offers of good loans right now. IMO, a better strat would've been to apply for cards/loans simultaneously (Before those new ones reported) and whatever you couldn't get on a cheap BT to pay off before expiration, take a personal loan to at least limit the cost of the interest over time. You can always use BT offers later if you so desire, but right now, it looks difficult to get either, and paying highest interest down first looks to be the best play.
  9. Hey now. How much I spent in utilities last April has a direct correlation to how much savings I was able to put away. Don't overly dissuade utility savings (Yes, I know you're partly joking)
  10. One thing I do like seeing on Personal Capital...
  11. And they now have a $50 each person referral in place. And the 3% works amazingly well if your own business 'direct deposits' to you also.
  12. They're pretty horrid but at the rates I accrue them (Slower, but at lower cost per point), I'm okay with it. And as to the conundrum of simple statement credit vs hypothetical trip? Well, consider the value you place on your own free time and the opportunity costs in having to hunt for a semi-decent redemption at a place you'd feasibly want to go versus the joy of being done with TYPs and Scittybank...and then go on with peace of mind and a raised middle finger at your leisure.
  13. Hidden fees, you say? I didn't say what my fee was for brokering it, either
  14. Someone's almost always sadly going to try to tell you that you got screwed on most purchases you make if they can. Also people have a tendency to inflate the price of their house, and deflate the price they paid for a vehicle, in all my years working in those industries, it's a constant source of amusement.
  15. Anyone need a Shelby GT500 at 100k ADM, I'll be happy to broker that sale for you....
  16. Don't know what they're calling a "Destination Charge" that covers other expenses, but at least with Ford/Honda/Acura that's just wrong. That's what the dealership is charged by the manufacturer for shipping the vehicle to them, and is already covered in the MSRP. And most of those things...frankly, you should read your contracts, period, and know what you're signing. Use common sense in all cases. If you don't know what something is on a contract, and you're signing that you are paying for it, freakin' ASK. You always have the power to walk away.
  17. Alternate theory, if you get something with rebates, choose the option to pay the rebates to you by check, and you can then use the rebates funds to pay off the other loan, assuming that you'd qualify for the initial loan. That accomplishes what you're trying to do in a roundabout way, and without as much shadiness. The key is qualifying for it in the first place and finding a vehicle with a rebate that does what you need to do....
  18. Without knowing how it was processed and submitted, I can't really give advice on it, but yes, the dealership would be your point of contact as Marv stated. How they submitted the deal (It sounds like they didn't submit it with a trade...did they buy the trade from you instead? Seems odd, as they'd lose the trade allowance and other reasons, but I digress....) needs to match exactly how the contract comes to the bank. As far as leverage, well....you have put miles on the vehicle at this point, and of course, you have the option to walk away from said deal, without the vehicle, and assuming they still have your trade that you sold to them (If that understanding is correct) you could then walk (literally) away from the deal. If everything was as they said it was, then it's more a moral question you're asking it sounds like, and one I'm not going to answer, because if a customer did me like that after I made good faith effort to help them, I'd be pretty pissed. So you have to find and follow your own moral compass there.
  19. Lurking around and around and around.
  20. I'm throwing a challenge flag here. I read back all the way, and we were dealing with PRA. So what it now sounds like is that you have multiple things reporting late: 1) TD Bank 2) Target (Or they're one and the same, as TD does run Target's Red Cards IIRC) 3) PRA -- Who's likely showing the TD/Target accounts they bought? Clearing PRA's via paying for delete would knock that one out, but it sounds like you're at a fork of which path you take. Paying OC makes PRA's spot on your credit report invalid as there's no debt to them if TD accepts payment, I *think* (Others can confirm) that they'd have to retract the account from PRA, which would then fall off. Or, if you pay PRA a lesser amount for delete, you'd still have to go through fighting TD/Target to have it removed by other means either way.
  21. Out of sheer curiosity, did you try their preapproval option? https://www.discovercard.com/application/preapproval/initial?scmpgn=res_ctr_prq_cstm_anim_dsply&iq_id=res_ctr_prq_cstm_anim_dsply Might as well link to other prequal ones through DoC. https://www.doctorofcredit.com/view-personalized-credit-card-offers/#Smaller_Card_Issuers
  22. If you go new? Depending on wants: https://www.ford.com/suvs-crossovers/ecosport/models/ecosport-s/ https://www.nissanusa.com/shopping-tools/build-price/cars/versa/2020/5-speed-manual-transmission/28862:BABW_:Ap4H4Jw/exterior https://www.toyota.com/yaris/ Solid options under $20k after taxes and tags. (Again, without knowing your location it's harder to pin down) This search offers a wide variety that can come to you in used format, and their financing I've heard good about, though never used them myself. https://www.carvana.com/cars/filters/?cvnaid=eyJwcmljZSI6eyJtaW4iOjY5OTAsIm1heCI6ODAwMH0sImZpbmFuY2UiOnsiZG93blBheW1lbnQiOjUwMDAsIm1vbnRobHlQYXltZW50IjoxMTV9fQ==
  23. Typically we could use a gift form and donation form to take care of it, and title transfer fees were around $20. I would assume that's still a valid workaround to get the tax credit, and would 9/10 times of a decent vehicle be more than worth the effort for the customer to fill out two forms. I think up here I've only ever titled ONE vehicle in LA, and it was simple enough, but I'm glad I don't have to go research this too 😛
  • Create New...

Important Information