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Everything posted by Zanshiro

  1. Dare I ask which CU? And my dad was not a member of NFCU at the time, but I was eligible due to his service. They randomly select some to provide a DD214 of the relative (I was not selected, but I have a copy of his if I ever get called to provide it). I saw the prior posts from way back saying otherwise, but at least as of the last year, that has not been the case in my personal experience. Not sure if that's a YMMV thing, but they told me it wasn't the case, and the site shows familial eligibility too: https://www.navyfederal.org/membership/become-a-member/eligibility.php NFCU or PenFed might be better suited for the goal that you're trying to accomplish in this case. I think the NFCU Platinum has a no-BT fee 0% offer for 18 months. And with them tending towards generous limits, might be the path I'd recommend.
  2. Since the end of week passed, @cv91915, did you have that update?
  3. My out the box solution: Buy a cheap beater, absorb some of the miles from her lease, lower the lease's payments and get away from that method. Buy a cheap used car later.
  4. So updating the update after the mini-catastrophes, and with some life changes. While the last year and a half was going, I went back to school, finished my associate's (Business Management/Finance), and am adjusting to try and keep that plan on at least within the 5 years total of starting track. Total repairs after said flood and findings ended up around 37,000, which disgusts me, because that entire house could've likely been rebuilt for that. It makes me damn tempted to go to a trade school and learn building, honestly. CC Debt 0% floats: 37,000 currently (Yes, sadly up.) HELOC 43k Mortgage: 55.2k Student loan 0%: 2400 (Paying $300/mo to pay it off before grace period expires) Used car loan $3,400 @1.74% Emergency accounts: ~8k liquid, 17k 401k (work prime -12k of that Roth, rest standard), 12k (Robinhood, taxable 401k), 2k M1 Finance. Took a promotion at the PT job and it's now full-time, so around $800/wk as the second salary, 30% of it goes into the Roth 401k, rest goes to paydowns. Nothing like a kick in the shins while you're running a marathon, right? But yearly post for self-accountability.
  5. In the land of necroposting, because this was about this card. In my prequalification it shows: " BB&T Spectrum Cash Rewards Credit Card 0% APR on purchases and balance transfers for 12 months. 16.99% variable APR after 12 months2 3% Cash back on Gas1 2% Cash back on Utilities and Groceries1 1% Cash back on everything else1 10% Cash back if deposited in your BB&T checking or savings account1 Wait....re-read that. "10% Cash Back if deposited in your BB&T checking or savings account" I'm like...I'm sure that's just poor wording and it's like 3.10% (Rough addition mind you), and not actual 10% cash back...right?
  6. This. Typically it's someone who's aware of credit and knows they're not where they want to be. And then, of course, they expect a miracle 7% when they qualify for 18%+ Little we can do at that point, even on a special rate with a captive lender. Processing fees here have to be standard across the board to all customers if charged, so it always gives me an interior chuckle when a customer grumpily comes in having read forums and goes "That's not required by law, you can't put that on my contract" ... Well, no, it's not required by law that I sell you a car either, but here we are...
  7. Sounds like it... https://www.abc.net.au/news/2018-05-02/commonwealth-bank-confirms-loss-financial-records-20m-customers/9720928
  8. Or do you have the VIN/link? I know our prices are a lot lower in general in the DC area with the clusterducking of dealerships in this area, but with Ford's a la carte option methods, it's hard to say whether that's a good deal or not. Guesstimating in the price range you're looking at either a manual 101A with an accent package and active valve exhaust, or possibly a 101A automatic with 18" wheels...but too tricksy to tell. How long has it been sitting on the dealer's lot? Are you any of the qualifying special rebates (Military, first responder, college student or recent grad)? Do you have direct offers from Ford in certificates that add on to savings? Looks like a decent deal on both sides, as frankly, dealership will make a couple grand, you'll have the car you 'want' if that's the case. In my area: MSRP: 31,380 Disc: 2,100 Doc: 299 Tax: 1,774.74 Tags: 300 --------------- Total: 31,653.74 Rebate: 2000 (1500 + 500 select inventory) Unpaid: 29,653.74 A 100A manual would start your MSRP at about 27100. So that might be more the range you're looking for if it has to be a new Mustang? Alternately, look for a good used car. Buying a new vehicle's the fastest way to set fire to money that could be saved or invested.
  9. As a post-thought at this point, since I've been out of town a while...A lower threshold card at 0% might make more sense than a Slate too. Maybe like Barf of America's Americard 0% offer, much as I may loathe them, it works.
  10. Are you getting rid of the current vehicle you have? Or adding one to the stable? That may be a part key. Also, define "OK credit" and I might could have a better idea for you. As to the other, looking at an IL ZIP code (60106), there is no 0% offer available in that region; also ran that against the internal system and confirmed. The "Special Rate" offering does lose the $1500 in rebates. Presumably if you find a unit on the lot for a long time at a dealer who's willing to take a heavy loss on it, you could possibly get a deal with the special rate, but even with top-tiered credit, special rate in your region is 2.9% for 60 months, or 4.9% for 72. Putting in the "App for Marv" would probably help narrow things a bit!
  11. What do you project his score is? Many auto dealers will get an "automatic approval" on a higher score. Alternately, a credit union can offer solid rates. What type vehicle is it that he is looking for, etc? That plays a big role.
  12. That 91 day time. AmEx: 4,500 > 13,000
  13. Main ones I'd look at for that goal would be AmEx and Discover. Depends on her card goals, though. I always recommend prioritizing goals over aiming for pure CLI brands. If you're just looking for a CLI, for example, a store Synchrony might be better, but far less useful.
  14. After their ability to properly count your balance prior, I'm admittedly surprised that wasn't stricken from the list sooner!
  15. Hmmm, From the site, you choose "Manage" and it's "Credit Line Increase" In app, you go to the three bars in top left corner, choose "Account" and then "Credit Line Increase" Hope that helps!
  16. Is this only for referrals? That's what I'd read somewhere... https://www.doctorofcredit.com/chase-freedom-unlimited-3x-everywhere-for-the-first-year-signup-bonus-up-to-20000-in-purchases-available-via-referral/?utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=facebook
  17. Well, I'm looking at the annual fee: You said you mainly stay at hotels and such, so.... $325 Annual Travel Credit: Automatic statement credit(s) totaling up to $325 will be applied to your Account when a Card is used for purchases made directly from airlines, hotels, car rental companies, taxis, limousines, passenger trains and cruise lines That takes out $325 of the $400, leaving you a $75 fee to validate worth. If you don't have the TSA Global entry, yet... TSA Pre® or Global Entry Application Fee Statement Credit: Cardmembers may receive one (1) statement credit ($85 application fee for TSA Pre or $100 application fee for Global Entry) when the application fee for either program is charged to an eligible Account. Limit one (1) statement credit per every 4 years in connection with the TSA Pre or Global Entry program application fees. There would be $425 in value for your $400 AF *BEFORE* the points. As always, basically depends on your personal use and strategy.
  18. A reputable dealer can often use tax returns, or 'nudge' the banks to use them as a source of POI with a decent relationship with a bank. Also, with those cards paid, you might come back with an auto-approval and not have need of POI, in my experience. Let those balances report paid, see where your FICO turns up after that fact and I'd say start the online dispute as obselete. Those might work wonders on their own. (And the "$2 trick" as advised with $10 above)
  19. A few boosting today because I forgot for a while and was preparing: WF Cash Wise>>> 19,700 (+5,700) Barclays RCI >> 2,830 (+855) They hate me, conservatively - HP too XD Chase Slate >> 9,000 (+2,500) Chase PC Freedom Unlimited to Freedom Ultimate (5% categories which I use more often.) >> 9,000 (+3,800) -- Chase did, of course, do both CLIs on the same HP -- PenFed VP >> (Pending notice) Luckily I don't care about inquiries or have anything major upcoming save perhaps a HELoC redo in a couple years.
  20. Email for what SEEMS to be a nice offer, depending on how the Marriott points devalued after the merger. Ah well, half the rest of March to decide :D
  21. Once I get all the other things lined up, I'll aim for this too, likely taking chunks of it on 0% cards with manageable limits...I'm surprised you haven't used some of those transfers when you find the 0%/$0 ones. But then, you only have a 1.74% too, which is damned amazeballs for a mortgage, IMO.
  22. #1) Congrats on the bump, it should serve well. #2) I'm glad you got the two PFDs knocked out. Not sure your meaning on the "Failure to Pay" - If the CA doesn't report, paying it kinda is the PFD in a sense, because it never shows? Or is Cap1 still reporting on the report? If it's 6 years old, I'd be aggressively fighting that off, and at worst, in 6m TU would remove it as early obselete most likely. Who's the other account with, and assumptively it's also not reporting?
  23. Hmm, I can still fix before it goes out. And odd the bank didn't send me a 1098 on it; I'll have to poke online and see. Thanks, shows my scatterbrain with everything going on!

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