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Zanshiro

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About Zanshiro

  • Rank
    Chaos Dragon
  • Birthday June 4

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  • Location
    Maryland
  • Interests
    Martial arts, Finances, Nature, Travel, Nonprofits, Investing

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  1. So, a co-worker of mine I'll name John Doe asked me for help when he saw how often I helped clients get bad credit improved to be able to get out of worse situations with vehicles and wot-wot. Long story short, John had an issue a few years back with a divorce, and the ex ran up CCs before they split, and they were in his name. Her lawyers basically had him eat his own sausage so to speak, and now he's trying to recover his credit to get his daughter and himself a better future. I mostly sent him through triage and setup processes, and he's worked to write letters, most of which have been v
  2. Guess I'm a bit late on my quarterly updates...I suppose I should make them tri-annually instead? CC Debt 0% floats: 11,550 currently (Hopefully can get these zeroed with a few good commissions before need to next flip happens, 12m and counting) Mortgage: 104k @ 15yr initial @2.35% Bathroom Loan: 2.9k @ 6.99% (pre-rebate) remaining - down from 10.9k, accelerated paydowns with the longer term for cushion "just in case" Emergency accounts/investment rebuild: ~9k liquid, 55.7k various 401ks (Correction from last post, too, with amounts roth vs regular) Work prime -19
  3. DP - Coworker got LVNV collection from Comenity also, so I don't think they're too exclusive.
  4. I'll just add -- This can help you target starting points to attack: https://creditboards.com/forums/index.php?/topic/357257-cc-spreadsheet-for-open-office/ Fill it in and watch with wonder. On to the other goal you mentioned, however, the two "New" cards being in the 90%+ range pretty much preclude you from getting another BT offer or many offers of good loans right now. IMO, a better strat would've been to apply for cards/loans simultaneously (Before those new ones reported) and whatever you couldn't get on a cheap BT to pay off before expiration, take a personal lo
  5. Hey now. How much I spent in utilities last April has a direct correlation to how much savings I was able to put away. Don't overly dissuade utility savings (Yes, I know you're partly joking)
  6. One thing I do like seeing on Personal Capital...
  7. And they now have a $50 each person referral in place. And the 3% works amazingly well if your own business 'direct deposits' to you also.
  8. They're pretty horrid but at the rates I accrue them (Slower, but at lower cost per point), I'm okay with it. And as to the conundrum of simple statement credit vs hypothetical trip? Well, consider the value you place on your own free time and the opportunity costs in having to hunt for a semi-decent redemption at a place you'd feasibly want to go versus the joy of being done with TYPs and Scittybank...and then go on with peace of mind and a raised middle finger at your leisure.
  9. Hidden fees, you say? I didn't say what my fee was for brokering it, either
  10. Someone's almost always sadly going to try to tell you that you got screwed on most purchases you make if they can. Also people have a tendency to inflate the price of their house, and deflate the price they paid for a vehicle, in all my years working in those industries, it's a constant source of amusement.
  11. Anyone need a Shelby GT500 at 100k ADM, I'll be happy to broker that sale for you....
  12. Don't know what they're calling a "Destination Charge" that covers other expenses, but at least with Ford/Honda/Acura that's just wrong. That's what the dealership is charged by the manufacturer for shipping the vehicle to them, and is already covered in the MSRP. And most of those things...frankly, you should read your contracts, period, and know what you're signing. Use common sense in all cases. If you don't know what something is on a contract, and you're signing that you are paying for it, freakin' ASK. You always have the power to walk away.
  13. Alternate theory, if you get something with rebates, choose the option to pay the rebates to you by check, and you can then use the rebates funds to pay off the other loan, assuming that you'd qualify for the initial loan. That accomplishes what you're trying to do in a roundabout way, and without as much shadiness. The key is qualifying for it in the first place and finding a vehicle with a rebate that does what you need to do....
  14. Without knowing how it was processed and submitted, I can't really give advice on it, but yes, the dealership would be your point of contact as Marv stated. How they submitted the deal (It sounds like they didn't submit it with a trade...did they buy the trade from you instead? Seems odd, as they'd lose the trade allowance and other reasons, but I digress....) needs to match exactly how the contract comes to the bank. As far as leverage, well....you have put miles on the vehicle at this point, and of course, you have the option to walk away from said deal, without the vehicle,
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