Jump to content

Please consider disabling your adblocker for CreditBoards if you have not already done so.  This site depends on advertising revenue to stay online.


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Zanshiro

  • Rank
    Chaos Dragon
  • Birthday June 4

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Interests
    Martial arts, Finances, Nature, Travel, Nonprofits, Investing

Recent Profile Visitors

801 profile views
  1. Hey now. How much I spent in utilities last April has a direct correlation to how much savings I was able to put away. Don't overly dissuade utility savings (Yes, I know you're partly joking)
  2. One thing I do like seeing on Personal Capital...
  3. And they now have a $50 each person referral in place. And the 3% works amazingly well if your own business 'direct deposits' to you also.
  4. They're pretty horrid but at the rates I accrue them (Slower, but at lower cost per point), I'm okay with it. And as to the conundrum of simple statement credit vs hypothetical trip? Well, consider the value you place on your own free time and the opportunity costs in having to hunt for a semi-decent redemption at a place you'd feasibly want to go versus the joy of being done with TYPs and Scittybank...and then go on with peace of mind and a raised middle finger at your leisure.
  5. Hidden fees, you say? I didn't say what my fee was for brokering it, either
  6. Someone's almost always sadly going to try to tell you that you got screwed on most purchases you make if they can. Also people have a tendency to inflate the price of their house, and deflate the price they paid for a vehicle, in all my years working in those industries, it's a constant source of amusement.
  7. Anyone need a Shelby GT500 at 100k ADM, I'll be happy to broker that sale for you....
  8. Don't know what they're calling a "Destination Charge" that covers other expenses, but at least with Ford/Honda/Acura that's just wrong. That's what the dealership is charged by the manufacturer for shipping the vehicle to them, and is already covered in the MSRP. And most of those things...frankly, you should read your contracts, period, and know what you're signing. Use common sense in all cases. If you don't know what something is on a contract, and you're signing that you are paying for it, freakin' ASK. You always have the power to walk away.
  9. Alternate theory, if you get something with rebates, choose the option to pay the rebates to you by check, and you can then use the rebates funds to pay off the other loan, assuming that you'd qualify for the initial loan. That accomplishes what you're trying to do in a roundabout way, and without as much shadiness. The key is qualifying for it in the first place and finding a vehicle with a rebate that does what you need to do....
  10. Without knowing how it was processed and submitted, I can't really give advice on it, but yes, the dealership would be your point of contact as Marv stated. How they submitted the deal (It sounds like they didn't submit it with a trade...did they buy the trade from you instead? Seems odd, as they'd lose the trade allowance and other reasons, but I digress....) needs to match exactly how the contract comes to the bank. As far as leverage, well....you have put miles on the vehicle at this point, and of course, you have the option to walk away from said deal, without the vehicle, and assuming they still have your trade that you sold to them (If that understanding is correct) you could then walk (literally) away from the deal. If everything was as they said it was, then it's more a moral question you're asking it sounds like, and one I'm not going to answer, because if a customer did me like that after I made good faith effort to help them, I'd be pretty pissed. So you have to find and follow your own moral compass there.
  11. The Lurk-A-Durk...a brand new dance.
  12. Lurking around and around and around.
  13. I'm throwing a challenge flag here. I read back all the way, and we were dealing with PRA. So what it now sounds like is that you have multiple things reporting late: 1) TD Bank 2) Target (Or they're one and the same, as TD does run Target's Red Cards IIRC) 3) PRA -- Who's likely showing the TD/Target accounts they bought? Clearing PRA's via paying for delete would knock that one out, but it sounds like you're at a fork of which path you take. Paying OC makes PRA's spot on your credit report invalid as there's no debt to them if TD accepts payment, I *think* (Others can confirm) that they'd have to retract the account from PRA, which would then fall off. Or, if you pay PRA a lesser amount for delete, you'd still have to go through fighting TD/Target to have it removed by other means either way.
  14. Out of sheer curiosity, did you try their preapproval option? https://www.discovercard.com/application/preapproval/initial?scmpgn=res_ctr_prq_cstm_anim_dsply&iq_id=res_ctr_prq_cstm_anim_dsply Might as well link to other prequal ones through DoC. https://www.doctorofcredit.com/view-personalized-credit-card-offers/#Smaller_Card_Issuers

About Us

Since 2003, creditboards.com has helped thousands of people repair their credit, force abusive collection agents to follow the law, ensure proper reporting by credit reporting agencies, and provided financial education to help avoid the pitfalls that can lead to negative tradelines.
  • Create New...

Important Information