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  1. We have a child/teenager who is about to turn 18 soon. Is it a bad idea to add them as an AU on a Credit Card account or should we try a different approach altogether?
  2. UPDATE: If anyone is interested. I paid the account balance down to between 5%-10%. I saw a good bump for me at least. It's been a while since I have been around a 600 or slightly over and that is where we are currently. I know that still isn't great...but I really wasn't expecting a score jump like we got. Thanks for the advice. I know I ask a lot of questions...but I want to be sure I understand and follow the advice correctly.
  3. I think I misunderstood what to do. I have a payment due on the 27th. The statements don't have a date on them. It's Capital One. The first statement is for less than 30 days and is from 5/8 - 6/3 and the second statement is from 6/4 - 7/3. Can I gather from those dates the statement date is the first number in the series and that is when I need to make sure the balance is where I need it to be for reporting? I can do it now as I don't anticipate needing to use the card between the payment due on the 27th and what date might be the date the statement was generated. I am sorry for s
  4. I honestly just dropped the ball on my reports. I haven't really had the time to monitor them like I did before due to some other personal things we had to work through that took a lot of our time. I had my reports sent to me and there are No PR's and I have 2 active TL's depending on which source you use. I have a personal loan from a finance company that reports on EQ only and then there is the Cap1 account which was just opened. I have some closed accounts that report a positive history...but the letters always say I don't have enough open TL's when we would apply for something. I think the
  5. I have visited both local banks and CU's (the one I am currently with and others locally) and while we have had conversations...it still all comes down with a score qualification. Maybe I didn't visit the right one...but I shopped around for the ones that I met their member qualifications. Even the one I have a relationship with currently for several years and good history says I need a score in the mid 600's for loan products for consideration (not a guaranteed approval). I have tried to get their products...but felt I need to work toward getting my score up in order to do so. I
  6. Unless I overlooked it and didn't see...the statement I got doesn't have a "statement date"...but does reflect a cycle. Mine says 6/3 - 7/2. I just got the statement today to my email. I am glad I asked and thank you for responding b/c I have been using around 50% of the balance and PIF as soon as I see I have a Payment Due. I guess I am going to have a high utilization report this month since my statement balance is about 1/2 my balance since it is a low limit card. If those dates are all I have...and if I understand right...I should make a payment on or before the 1st to bring my
  7. My scores aren't that great. All are in the low to mid 500's. So far I have only been able to get a Secured Card from Cap1. They seem to be the only one that would approve me. I just got my 2nd Statement today. For the purpose of rebuilding and trying to build my scores up...is there a formula to work with while trying to rebuid? Should I keep it to a certain % of Utilization each month and should I do the PIF when I get the statement or leave a small balance?
  8. In the process of activating a Capital One account (previous Capital One customer)...when I got logged in and activated the card...there was a Capital One 360 account that I had forgot about with an active balance. It looks like I have access to the previous Capital One account that was paid/closed; the new account that was just opened; and the 360 account. I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with the 360 Account from Capital One and if it is something that I should keep or just close? It looks like it is linked to my Capital One account and that is why I saw the account.
  9. For my own clarification...what does PC mean? I know it is a Product Change...but that is a term that I am not familiar with and want to be sure I understand it correctly. My initial thought was that a PC meant the Secured Card would graduate from Secured to Unsecured.
  10. Does BOA still offer that 99/500 Card?
  11. I am not sure if they will graduate the Secured Card or not. I would have to check and see. It seems the last time I called and asked (been a while) that they said I would have to reapply. Regarding Elan being owned by US Bank...would I be better off just trying to get a Secured Card issued by US Bank?
  12. I inquired with a local CU about their Secured Card options. They do have a Secured Card option...but they said it was through Elan Financial Services. Does anyone know anything about them? From what I was told and their site...it's a minimum deposit of $300-$5000 and won't be considered for at least 12 months before it could go Unsecured. I don't know if this is something worth considering or if I should move on to other options.
  13. I did the Capital One prequalifier and applied. I was approved for a Secured Card with $99 deposit. Are you limited to ONLY paying the $99 deposit for a $200 CL or can you pay more which would increase your CL by the additional amount you pay? I was also wondering...if that is the case...is this option only available at the time of deposit?
  14. Thanks for the help! I think what you said helps me to understand the part about determining what we owe. The other part of the equation is where I really don't know how to proceed. I don't know if I should respond to the Collection Letter that I received. Even going off of what the Provider states that I owe them...the fees associated with the collection seem to be double what the Provider states. I have had collections before...but this is the first time where a collector has added roughly $500-$600 (which is about the same as what I owe the Provider) in addition to the stated balance with t
  15. Thank you for your response. I just wanted to clarify that in taking this approach...do I need to still do some type of DV disputing the amounts inside the 30 day window as well or do I somehow also reference a DV with the same correspondence to the Provider and the Attorney? They did state that what the insurer was saying was not right (in their opinion) and they didn't have to adhere to the mandated writeoff's the insurance said they did. I talked with the insurance multiple times on different days to make sure this was right. The Provider never said what the outcome of checking
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