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whipped

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  1. CRAP!!! I REALIZED I MADE THE PAYMENT VIA USPS MONEY ORDER that in your guide was said not to ugh. In either case, nothing is on my report so that's a good thing... So I guess my question now is do I just wait for the M/O to clear and hope for the best? What should I do with the M/O from the CA?
  2. Interesting development. I followed the guide with the letter insert "a", made copies and made sure I sent it via CMRRR to the HIPAA department with the USPS money order specifically spelled out payable to the hospital. No contact with CA of course at all. The other day, the CA sends me a check for a refund on overpayment (apparently I paid a portion of it already). - I haven't cashed the check from the CA nor intend to (under $100) - Money orders (two since it was over $1,000) hasn't been cashed that I sent I'm assuming I wait until the money order is cashed; also assuming the hospital forwarded the money order to the CA? Also, this is the right link to check the 11-digit serial of the money order correct under 6401 inquiry? https://mois.usps.com/pls/pmoisnp/mois_external_pkg.main
  3. Hi WhyChat, it's the co-pay unfortunately. I will go through the process again. Thank you as always.
  4. It's been a while here and getting back in hot water. The medical collection is for around $1,000 which was rendered last summer for both accounts. I know it's valid but also I know I need to follow some steps. I did check all three CR's earlier and it's clean (and don't want any CR's on there as my last neg is about to come off completely by this fall). Do I still need to follow the medical-specific DV letter if I can pay with CMRRR? Thank you.
  5. My g/f's credit is in the 800's across the board with very little debt (auto loan for $13K or so only) with less than $500 in CC debt. Right now we're at a limbo as we eventually want to purchase the house we're renting but with her trying to nail down a job, talks of us applying together came into play. As my signature shows, it's in the low 700's across the board. The bad part is that my DTI is very high. My income is good along with 10 years of employment with the company I work for but because I pay child support each month including two vehicle payments (totaling close to $600) and other loans, my DTI shoots up in the 53-54% range no matter how I look at it. I'm completely assuming here but it would make sense for her to apply alone since my credit score would also drive up the interest rate? Would my DTI alone be a disqualifying factor and my income will not matter? Any help is appreciated Worst case we'll likely save as much as we can and put more down towards the house together and her applying.
  6. Thank you so much Brian! We are in New Hampshire (no sales tax but real estate & corporate taxes are very high).
  7. We will be buying a home next year but since my g/f has 800 FICO (pulled actual mortgage FICO recently) and due to our unique situation, she was wondering what she would qualify for by herself. We also like to make sure if something happens to either of us, her or I can pay for the mortgage comfortably (which I can). The purchase price of the new home will be $200K. The price is set as we're buying the home from her family. We will be putting the 20% down for her to obtain $160K mortgage. Her debt is very low currently even though she does not have a job (more on that at the bottom). Breakdown of the property: Purchase Price: $200,000 20% Down Payment: $40,000 Property Tax: $4,560 / year Home Insurance: (not sure?) Her Debt: Auto loan = $260/month ($16,000 or so left) Credit card = $50/month (~$2,000 total on one card) This is where it sort of gets tricky as right now she's looking for a job; she had a $75K/yr job but wants to take a step back and hoping to go as low as $40K/year. Realistically what is she looking at affordability wise? Does she need say $50K/year job or for us to put more on the down payment? Any help is appreciated. Thank you
  8. whipped

    CCT

    The email didn't work for me or get a confirmation :\ Had to call this morning. They weren't pushy at least. Canceled within five minutes with confirmation email.
  9. - Going in debt again - Too many toy cards - Not viewing CC as a way to save money and get bonus vs racking up debt
  10. What CV said...and you'll hear it over and over and over and OVER again as far as these store cards aka toy cards. Score won't jump nor it'll help with your credit journey if your primary goal is to increase the score "quickly". I wouldn't waste my time on them; think long-term and go for actual CC that offer benefits (like Chase, AMEX, etc). See my sig
  11. 800. Wish it was FICO 8 lol. FICO 8 is 749 currently. - Amount on revolving account is too high - Length of time bank/national revolving accounts have been established
  12. Depends on the region. I was with them for close to 10 years with the SERO plan. Was $55/month after tax with unlimited data but the tower upgrades were just awful. So bad that within two years there was almost no change in coverage that all other carriers have with full LTE. Enough was enough and switched to T-Mobile which is around $80/month after tax with same unlimited data. The no coverage with voice alone was a deal breaker in case of an emergency as I drive often with my kids. And this is with much faster LTE than Sprint. T-Mobile's customer service is also regional and not outside the US. The coolest customer reps I've talked to. Sprint is so scripted like most companies. I couldn't justify Verizon as I use over 30GB/month in data. Very happy with T-Mo. If you want an accurate coverage map, go to Sensorly.com and compare for your areas. It helped me a ton.

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