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DumbUserName

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  1. Mike, I've been trying to follow too... see the link that Uber sent; Go to the BW posting, top of page 2; that allusion is made again at the very bottom of P 2, and continues onto the top of P. 3, with one of the "variables" you're looking for. I don't understand the cryptic nature at this point; BUT (1) I respect that guys shouldn't have to post the same things over & over & over... (2) I'm trying to figure out what it is (!) that gets us all to B.
  2. Very good advice here, Kuuner. If you can, anotherlevel, and if you're not familiar with the mediation process, then please do familiarize yourself with the general goals of mediation and structures of mediated results. A wise-guy might quip that "If no one's happy then it's probably the right answer." Walk in with two figures: one that would be your "ideal result" and one of your "lowest acceptable result." Better is better, obviously, but really, anything between the two should be thought-of as a successful result in a mediation.
  3. Lol. Philosophy major. Thanks, Cashnocredit.
  4. Ok then. Thanks for your earlier posts though. As I said, I appreciate the info, all.
  5. My BS detector is going effing wild right now. If you're a Lawyer in Jersey, PM me with details of your practice.
  6. Believe me... I've contemplated a freeze. It's a concern, but there's nothing 'eminent.' ...and I have to think that the more time that goes by, the lesser the risk. But it's always in the background. So, in my mind, I'm either paranoid because I freeze, or I'm paranoid because I'm still thinking about it after 2 years... I believe the golden mean lies in monitoring.
  7. If you're asking me, Its not necessarily EX; it's "anything." The long story is that I wound up working for a... you know. Among other things "fraud" was a forte of his (literally) and since I was employed by him, well, he's got my social, etc. He also didn't pay me partial wages-- almost skimming. Why stay at all? we were working hard; it was a start up; we believed in the biz with or without him... you know, the usual replies. Yeah, shame on me. I have a successful labor claim still outstanding from 2 years ago... and I can't collect because the business "failed." (Imagine that?) I've had this service for a good while as something I can keep an eye on once a month. Recently, he's reemerged in the scene, and I want to make sure that I'm not an unknowing party to something. (SOUNDS a little like partially pregnant, doesn't it?) but when it's a practiced fraudster you're talking about... well, every little bit of scrutiny helps
  8. great; similar costs. Thank you Archimaybe. I'll check that out once my current dispute with TU comes to fruition one way or the other. Can't be any 'worse,' I imagine. And in case anyone's inclined toward Mint Credit, again, I have no real beef with them; just trying to make sure I understand my options. thanks all! I genuinely appreciate your assistance! Keep the good advice & tips coming!
  9. ...I can think of a 'partially pregnant' or two... regardless... Thank you parisamour, but my primary interest is monitoring, not 'technically' the score. Maybe I'm disillusioned, but I think that IF one was going to be getting monitoring, then then it does make sense to get a score, while one's at it.
  10. Shifter & CV9....: Understood, respected, and appreciated... Thanks. What's the better method If I want monitoring with a score for a 'reasonable' fee?
  11. I asked these questions in another forum under a certain pretense, but didn't get a reply. Instead of bumping the thread there, I will ask the direct questions here: I am a subscriber to this service. Once a year, they give me my 3 credit scores; However, they have recently (past year, give/take) merged with Equifax, and thus I get my Equifax score monthly. Is Mint Credit considered a FAKO, or an (at least) "partial FICO" because of their relationship with that one CRA? Anyone aware of the general accuracy? Anyone have actual experiences, pro or con with Mint Credit? I don't mind them but I'm not in love, so if anyone has better monitoring services (I pay $16.99 mo) I'm all ears. Please, no gratuitous sales here; it will benefit the board if you tell us WHY you like "your" service. thank you, all! DUN
  12. All true, Kuuner. I'm thinking of the amount of time they take to actually act on a default, as opposed to the time that it takes to follow a statutory process. I have a belief that if there were another Lien, especially one with priority status, it may cause them to act faster, thus accelerating the overall process from 'this' point. I do agree that judgements are wiped out in a foreclosure, but again, specifics may vary by state.
  13. it's not the "idea" that you don't want to, it's the "idea" that you CAN'T that's a problem. Here's what Kuuner didn't say: If you can't afford the Mortgage and Taxes (...or Insurance, PMI, HOA fees, whatever) then you can't afford the house. Please, please, forgive me for that harsh review of reality. Again, we've all been in your position, that's how I (and many of us) found this board. Those words aren't a bash, Pencil, it's the truth. Your taxes are a LIEN. Always a Lien. Even for those of us who are current on our taxes, they are still a lien-- it just so happens that the payment on this lien is not yet due & payable. That's how property taxes are legally described. Well, yes & no. Not foreclose "right away", but "maybe faster than they otherwise would." Let's try this: You need to think of Liens as having a certain Priority. In a foreclosure-- or even a sale or refinance-- things get paid in this order. This is a bit crude and can be tweaked depending on state, but here's how it generally goes: 1) ALWAYS Property Taxes 2) OFTEN (depending on state) HOA Fees (Condo, Co-op, etc.) 3) Federal Tax Liens 4) (Depending on state) State Tax Liens 5) Everything else, according to the time that either the lien/judgement occurs or is recorded... again, depending on state. Notice that "everything else" includes Mortgages... 2 things to consider here: First, "amount" doesn't matter-- it's done in terms of TIME: First one on the property is the first one paid-- And second, that if one of the other Liens with priority (#1-4) is owed money, then your lender is going to get really nervous really fast. Will this cause them to foreclose faster? Maybe. It depends on the market, state, financial environment, and their lending/recovery philosophies. So yeah, Instead of foreclosing, The BEST THING (both for lender and for you) is to take a little extra money from you every month, bank it, and pay (Specifically # 1) FOR you instead of wondering whether or not you're doing it, yourself. If you don't have insurance, that'll make them real nervous, too. They'll escrow for that as well; not usually for HOA fees though, and Fed/State liens aren't something that anyone "plans" on, so they don't typically contemplate those. My advice, if at all possible, find the money (beg, borrow, or.... don't tell me!), offer to escrow taxes, and take it from there. Will it hurt? Yeah... but it already hurts now, and that's a way that you can likely keep your house.
  14. Just to elaborate a bit on what Ican said, because it's two crucial points. Whether a "Second" lender has recourse against you when the "first" closes out your Mortgage is going to vary from state to state. In those states where it's possible, the "first" can also go after you for the difference, but they seldom do. They take the house, and that's that. On the other hand, when a "First" forecloses and there's no surplus, the "second" lender is left with nothing. Just for clarity, and as a round number example: You buy the house for 300, have a Mortgage for 250 and a Second Mortgage for 50. It goes into foreclosure the next day. Let's say it sells at Auction for 200, the First will USUALLY (but not always) disregard the extra 50 on their books. They get the house or proceeds form Auction. The second Mortgagee, however, gets squat. Understandably, they're much more likely to try to recover SOMETHING. Again, without telling you what's happening in your state (I see there are now 3 interested parties and you'll each need to do the research yourself in your own jurisdictions), I would look into the lender recourse laws in your state. Also, if this is your principal residence, it'll matter in most places--look into the Homestead laws as well. Point here is that many states draw a distinction between this happening to your HOME, vs. an investment property, Commercial property, etc. Second homes DO NOT get the same protections -- they are treated like investment properties; sorry. Finally, keep in mind that loans are not usually sold one-by-one. Thousands are packaged up and transferred. It's just "paper" in exchange for money that's discounted at a certain rate, at this point. This could be the result of an 'error' from those banks, or the Assignee bought the paper SUPER CHEAP in the hopes of recovering something for it. In recourse states, just because "your Lender" isn't going to pursue, doesn't mean someone else won't. On the other hand, whether these guys can just come out of the ashes like a Phoenix (or a Satan) after 7 years, is another story. Definitely listen to the advice of the other guys on this board where this is concerned... but you should be aware of these nuances. Recourse is something that some of us acknowledge as part of the Note when we give a Mortgage, depending on the state and type of property. Good Luck.
  15. Hi, ColoGirl: I'm here as an salamander, so no flaming here...well, bad things happen too. It's likely a split for ALL of us, right? I just hope that I can somehow repay the community for the advice I receive here. :-) My expertise is in Real Estate. I definitely can't help you completely, but answer these questions and we'll see if we can set you on the right course: Where are the timeshares? How much did you pay for them? How many weeks do you own? Do you owe any money (loans) on the timeshares NOW? (I'm not talking about those monthly/quarterly fees-- goodness knows you can do without those right now!) How much/often do you pay those periodic fees? and How "popular" is the resort? --What I mean by that last one is that sometimes the management offices actually have lists of interested parties who would love to get a share. That's your best option. Sometimes, rarely, in a period of upswing (which technically they may be in, depending on the location,) the management offices will even buy them from you knowing they can sell them at a premium. Also consider your neighbors during your weeks-- you likely made some friends, right? Maybe THEY have friends who they'd love to party with for 2 weeks a year. The "communal" aspect of these properties is one of the highest selling points. See if your neighbors have friends who would like to purchase your unit. Finally, you likely won't recover everything (esp. those fees...) but have you considered renting out your weeks? Again, the management office may have interested parties for rental purposes, too, and definitely check with your neighbors for this. "Sure-- I'd love to bring Mom up to watch the kids in a different Unit while my wife & I go out on the town for a night!!" is a typical response. Let's start there & see what kind of answers you can come back with. Keep in mind this one other potentially crucial point if you sell: YOU WILL NEED TO FIND OUT if they'll charge you a brokerage fee to either do the sales work or to even pass on the lists of those people to you. In most resorts, they're entitled to commission if they place an owner someone in your unit/week(s), and this may even be written into your Agreement. It's just like buying a building, house, condo, co-op, or land, and they're the ones who are advertising this Unit & maintaining the units while you're absent for 50 out of 52 weeks a year. (or whatever it is. ) If you have them, look on your settlement statements from when you purchased the units. That'll give you a base-level idea of what it'll cost you to sell them now, keeping in mind that costs rise over time, and if you bought it from the Developer/owner itself, then their costs might be significantly lower than you would be charged on the Market. Look on the "seller's" side of that document for what they had to pay. Hope that helps-- hang in there and keep working at it! DUN

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