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bozzburg

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  1. Hello Fellow CB'ers, Hopefully everyone is well! What does everyone think the fallout is going to be from a credit rating standpoint? I would imagine there are going to be MANY MANY people who are going to be getting dinged from lapsed mortgage, revolving credit, and loan payments being missed. How do you think this will be handled later on down the line? Do you think companies are going to be more forgiving with GW letters or if the marks are going to be left, do you think potential lenders will overlook the pandemic months if you get dings?
  2. I don't know about any of the above to be completely honest. I have never had a lapse in my health insurance since I've been an adult. I'm just curious about the laws surrounding validation. I've never received correspondence from these people so therefore I would have to assume that I was not given an opportunity for a debt validation request before they reported it.
  3. So is this something I would negotiate a pay for delete? Or in this situation do they just remove it after I pay?
  4. I can say for sure that Capital One will definitely take you to court. They took me to court over 2 cards I had with them. One had a balance of $450.00 and the other for $700.00.
  5. Medical debt for $200.00 just popped up on my CR's. Phoenix Financial. I never even received any communications from them or from the OC for that matter. I hate these JDB's
  6. Hello Fellow CB'ers, So just before I'm standing at the counter preparing dinner (Stuffed Cabbage) and my daughter says to me, "I wanna open a credit card soon"! I literally said, "Oh god that's scary"! So for all those with children, what was your first reaction to this? I have talked with my 19 year old daughter many times about this topic. I've gotten the usual "I KNOW" response but they really don't know. I'm seeking recommendations on her first card, proper preparation, and anything else helpful to the subject. Thanks in advance to all!
  7. Almost 4 years old. The amount is around $2,300. I am familiar with ARB. Good thought on that. I honestly didn't even think about that. I'll try some other methods first before that. I'd rather "backdoor" attempt to remove it then get into ARB. Like I said, you brought up a great point!
  8. Thanks Hege. Next up is JACK. I guess I just got mega lucky on EQ and they drug their feet. I'll take the victory on that one I guess.
  9. I feel like I'm being attacked here people. It was a snail mail dispute. Door to door, from time of dispute was 46 days. That's accounting for the mail. All I was really asking was "is this a viable method" for disputing? Was it ever tried? Was it succesful? My apologies for leaving out relevant info. It wasn't intentional.
  10. I disputed an old employee account where the balances were incorrect from an assumption of liability. I had a payment agreement that I was good on and the accounts were never properly combined so one went past due because they never combined on their end. So I stopped paying on it, it never got fixed and the wrote the account off almost 4 years ago. They updated it as an unpaid CO in November of 2019. I figured hell with it. So I disputed on all 3 as balance incorrect, never late. I got back "verified" results from TRANS and EXP but EQ deleted the account. So in essence, I was wondering if I can use the removed TL letter from EQ and re-dispute on EXP and TRANS for an easy deletion.
  11. Hello Everyone, Happy New Year to all! Question for some pros. I disputed a Verizon Wireless collection account on all 3 CRA's. The usual "verified" thing happened on TRANS and EXP but, it was removed for EQ. The question is, am I able to dispute again with TRANS and EXP stating that the account was removed on EQ simple and plain? If so, do I just dispute and say TL was inaccurate and removed from EQ and should have been removed on all 3, please remove? Thanks in advance!
  12. Hello CB'ers, Seems like a dumb enough question but... I'll start on both sides of the equation. I have had a bad credit file and while it was bad, my scores hovered around the 500-550 mark. This includes judgements, CO's, a slew of lates, etc.... Then when I learned more from this site, I cleaned my file up and got rid of negs. The highest I ever seen my score get was around 640. Then I hit a point where I was maxed on everything and my score sat around the 600-615 mark. Now at this point, I have only a school loan with a 6k balance and 1 MC CC with a $300 limit and no other debt. In addition, I have about 7 lates on 4 different accounts, 2 CO's and a settled account and my score is 586-592 (NOT FAKO's). When I was at my worst point, my score was only 30 points less. I dont really understand what it takes to get a 700 and above other then the obvious of starting with a completely clean file?
  13. Hello Fellow CB'ers, About a month ago, I sent a Goodwill letter to Synchrony requesting Goodwill on some late payments for 3 accounts. I finally received a response that essentially said that everything they are reporting is accurate. It's like they just completely glossed over my request as this was not what I was asking for. The intent of the letter was asking them if they could remove these late payments and it couldn't have been anymore obvious in the letter. This is the body of the letter: I am reaching out regarding accounts that I had with Synchrony Financial. These accounts were: Amazon (Sept. 2018, Oct. 2018 late payments) Care Credit Walmart (November. 2018 late payment) The reason for the contact is because in 2018, I suffered loss of employment. These 3 accounts were in good standing up until 2018 at which point I had to enroll in hardship programs to assist with keeping the accounts current because of high minimum payments. The Care Credit account was closed in good standing as Paid in Full. The Amazon and Walmart accounts were both Paid in Full and closed but I accumulated late payments on Amazon and Walmart (months outlined above). While I am fully aware that it is within FCRA law that accurate information is to be reported to a credit bureau, it is however not against the law to request or grant an adjustment of Goodwill to a consumer. I did not at anytime neglect any of my accounts with Synchrony Financial and PROMPTLY paid these accounts IN FULL when I had the available means to without them being charged off. I take my financial obligations with all of my creditors very seriously and had a fantastic credit standing before my loss of employment in 2018. I am requesting out of Goodwill if my Amazon and Walmart accounts can have the late payments removed and negative information also be deleted. If this request is granted, I ask if this information could be updated on all major credit bureaus.
  14. Thanks for the reply. The student loan is federal. Prior to this $28,000 a year gig, I was making around $80,000 per year as a sales rep. Didn't have enough federal taxes coming out for 4 consecutive years. During those times, I was in a pretty decent amount of debt spread across about 13 accounts plus an underwater lease payment. Minimums were consuming my paycheck and I kept cycling through my CC's and maxing out my cards in a never ending cycle. Thank the lord I'm outta that mess! Now that I am out of that, I haven't had any savings at all. So I would like to better plan for the "future", but again, I'm still kind of in deep even though I'm not in revolving debt anymore. I have pondered BK because I spoke to a tax lawyer and if I wait another 2 years, the tax debt "could be" dischargeable. But I really do not want to consider that option at this point. I have no assets of any kind, so nothing for anyone to take really. I also DO NOT qualify for an OIC either. As I said though, the interest and penalties on their IRS debt are making it impossible to ever pay down but I should also consider banking some money for savings. I just don't know where to begin.
  15. Hello All, Looking for some advice. The title says it all. I'm 37 and completely broke. I live paycheck to paycheck on a $28,000 a year salary living in NJ. Sucks royally. I would like to get my SHH.... together here. The good news is, I have no revolving debt. The bad news is, I still owe about $6500.00 on a student loan from 2004 and I am in the gut to the IRS for about $32,000. I am currently on a payment arrangement with the IRS, but I get CRUSHED with interest and penalties so pretty much my $400.00 monthly payment gets negated to about $73.00 principal. I will LEGIT probably be DEAD before I can get that paid off. So...... I opened up a ROTH IRA and was thinking of contributing money towards it to prepare for the future. Forgetting about the school loan, I know saving money is smart, but so would tackling this IRS debt all things considering. Assuming I really budget myself and contribute the $6,000 max per year to the Roth IRA, should I shorten the budget for that and put that towards the IRS or should I completely forgo saving any money and just hammer my IRS away until it's paid off and THEN save?

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