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Link2k

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  1. Can a bank/finance company deny to accept your insurance company if they are licensed and approved to conduct insurance in your state? If not does anyone know the relevant law stating such?
  2. Thank you! Yes, everything that they offer is terrible! I'll use it once every six months and PIF when the statement cuts. I was told to stay away from store cards because they would hold me back when it came to getting approval for the REAL DEAL cards when my credit gets better. They didn't tell me what CB they pulled so I don't know my current score to app for anything. I'm going to go "garden" for a while until a few more baddies fall off. Yet you didn't listen. You need to clean up your credit reports some more and then add new accounts. Otherwise, you'll be stuck in toy card hell. I didn't go CRAZY with the store cards! I added ONE Fingerhut card for the next two years and then I will close them. Cleaning up my baddies and NOT adding and new positive TL is considered HELL! I can't do one, without doing the other. If we ALL would have listened to the advice we were given, there wouldn't be a "Creditboards" website now would it? If you don't have any thing NICE to say, don't say ANYTHING at all I'm sorry. Here's your pat on the back. *pat pat* Adding toy cards won't get you stuck in toy card hell, but cleaning up baddies is far more useful than adding tradelines you won't use. This isn't an either or proposition.
  3. Not a loan officer but when I had an invalid collection pop up on my report just before close I was told it would need to be paid off or removed before close. Thankfully it was disputed and removed in a few days. In your situation I imagine they would want all collections and charge offs paid. As for likelihood I can't answer that but cost is going to come in to play. Do you know what your DTI would be with the mortgage?
  4. Definitely keep those they are helping more than hurting. Your plan sounds like a good one. In an and/or situation when it comes to credit apps for rewards cards you want I always recommend the and option.
  5. More robust credit lines is different than a thicker file, research lenders that are generous with CL's. Plenty of people fall into the more cards trap instead of what they want. For you it sounds like a few high limit cards and not a lot of middling 3-5k limits. Amex has been generous with me for limits but for you a charge card may be your best bet from a rewards/spending stand point, others with more experience with the Amex point system can recommend a card for you. As far as multiple accounts for one household with Amex I see no benefit. Better off to have a joint account combined income and the same member date, assuming one of your credit reports won't drag the other down.
  6. I see this concept confused a lot, here and in the real world so I will clarify here for future posters even though OP seems clear on it. Paying your CC before the statement cuts is beneficial in showing no usage and reporting a higher score that month, it will also avoid interest. Using this method with every card all of the time is detrimental as it looks like you never use your cards to possible lenders who pull your CR. The second way of paying no interest is to pay the card off by the statement due date instead of before the statement cuts. This still avoids interest however whatever the statement balance is shows up on your CR. It also gives you an extra 20 to 30 days of interest free borrowed money. The downside is your credit score can fluctuate wildly depending on spending, how many cards you have, and their limits. For anyone who will be applying for a credit product follow the advice of the above posters small $1 or $2 balance on one card for an optimal score before the credit pull and pay everything else before the statement cuts. For those gardening or comfortable being a month away from being in optimal CR mode for a pull, pay the statement balance by the due date. It will give you more time interest free, keeps you from applying without giving it thought and a cool down period (it won't stop you from applying but knowing you have to wait a month to have the optimal score may stop you from making a rash decision).
  7. What is your goal? The reason I ask is because a thin file, as long as you have at least 3 cards, won't prevent you from achieving anything. That being said all other things being equal a thicker file is better at keeping your score high if a balance does report. The only time I was ever asked about my file thickness was when I applied for an auto loan. They wanted to know why I didn't have more auto loans. If the goal is a thicker file because it's a criticism that CB members have given I would caution you to remember that everyone here has their own goals (arbitrary or otherwise). If you want to hit a magic number in CL there are better methods. If you are trying to bury any negative trade lines under newer positive ones I would still suggest putting energy into removing those (depending on your unique situation, likelihood of being sued/sol etc.) You already have 3 TL's I would get your husband up to 3 and then lay out what your actual goal is. All of that being said if ya either of you get an Amex, you should add the other as an AU as their are specific Amex benefits to being an AU
  8. Add them as an AU wait for it to report and then have them open their own cards, Walmart, Citi, and the now discontinued Zync were great about letting people with short clean histories get a start. She can get into the 740's in a couple of month's. (Granted she will still be denied for short history for the best cards but she will be on a golden path and then it's up to her to stick it out) Cosigning a card puts you on the hook for their spending, adding them as an AU gets better initial benefits (a pre-made positive history) with less drawback as you can always keep the card. BW had an entire thread on helping out people with no credit history. It's easy to get to the mid to high 700's in no time with a willing helper with established history such as OP. Edit: I would avoid the secured card path if she has a clean/no history, it's essentially tying up funds for no good reason when you can avoid all risk and achieve the same or better results without using a cent. I also would avoid the co-signed card due to the fact that it will take 6 months to generate a FICO if you go down that path. Again the AU/wait a month/apply for siblings own card is the fast track to their own independence and good credit.
  9. It took me about a month to get my account opened initially. When I later applied for an auto loan they offered me a CC without an extra pull which I accepted, they then never processed the card so after 2 or 3 weeks I called them back and they told me first it was still being processed and then after another call a week later they said it hadn't been submitted. Based on my experience they don't have great internal communication if you are worried calling them doesn't seem to hurt.
  10. I have the FICO score on my page as well. As a data point I only have a CC.
  11. I don't know how legit this can be, two of the board members are classic examples of "1 percenters." A former executive and a banker. Sounds like what always happens slap a friendly "we are hippies too" sticker on it and hope to capture the market by pretending to be part of a group you aren't in. It's all about advertising
  12. I didn't know about this until last week, if I would have known sooner I could have transferred my current 0% balance out and back to extend it another 12 months. Thats what I get for not reading CB everyday

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