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I am new to this forum and excited to learn more as I go. I have used the search function but I don't seem to be hitting what I am looking for in particular and would love some advice. I am in the process of raising my scores from 760s-780s in FICO 8 scoring, to 800s+ and it appears my current limitation is my current credit to debt ratio, I have all the other boxes checked off including a credit history of 24 years and watch things closely with myfico.com account. Although my debts are very low, my CCs I have are:

Capital One (5 years) - $9,544 limit
Citibank Rewards (17 years) - $15,269 limit
Bank of America (5 years) - $1,800 limit

I have no other credit cards or retail cards. Possibly applying for an Amex is a good idea as well?
 
So the main crux, I have applied for CLIs but because I have not used the cards near their maxes a CLI will not be approved. I have considered making purchases with my business merchant provider account with the cards so the money goes back to me and I can immediately pay it back off.  What methods of "moving" funds around to increase credit usage have you found to be successful or are recommended?

Thank you for your knowledge on the matter. 

I would appreciate any help you folks can give me.  I had some lab work done and when the lab filed it with BCBS it got kicked back and I received a bill for it.  I emailed the lab to dispute the charges, and was told it had been filed with the wrong billing codes and that it would be refiled. I never heard another thing about it.
 
Almost 2 years later, the bill showed up on my credit reports as a collection.  After about a month of sending emails back and forth, I was told by the lab that the bill was submitted to the insurance company under the wrong BCBS policy number, so insurance refused to pay it.  This, of course, is contrary to them telling me it was initially filed with incorrect billing codes.  The lab never contacted me to try to get a correct policy number, never sent me a bill, never sent me a warning that it would go to collections.  Nothing.  Just two years later it's on my credit reports.  
 
Can someone please tell me the appropriate steps to take to get this collections removed?  The fact that they waited two years to drop this on me just boggles my mind.  BCBS has a 90-day timely filing requirement, so there's no way they can try to re-file it now.   Thanks!  

I have a medical bill between $100-$110 that that has been picked up by a debt collector. Original creditor wouldn't reverse despite offer to pay in full, read online to send to pay for delete. I sent a certified pay for delete which they received. The offer was to pay in full. I asked for them to respond within 15 days which would be the end of this week. So far I have not received any response via mail, just two phone calls asking me to call them.
 
According to credit karma (I used for the credit report/monitoring  info, not for the scores), it has not been reported to credit bureaus as of yet. I have no late/collections of any kind on my credit report. I understand that they don't have to respond but is there anything that I can do more on my end? Do people ever offer to pay more than the full amount for them to agree? Any advice would be appreciated.

A collection agency from whom I received no dunning letter whatsoever just poisoned my EX report with an old medical collection that was removed roughly 3 years ago from all of my reports - plunging my EX score 57 points .  Nothing has hit my EQ or TU reports yet.
 
Thankfully, having been down this route before, and with the help this this forum, I know what to do.  I was tempted to click on the dispute button on the Experian site, but I remembered that doing everything via snail-mail is highly recommended.
 
WhyChat, if there is anything else, other than reviewing your site with all of the directions, that I need to do, let me have it.
 
First step, opt out.

I came up with a goodwill letter to send for late payment removal. I found the cooperate office, please read and tell me if I should send or revise?
if revise give me some thoughts?
 
 
Purpose of letter? Customer  courtesy  late payment removal for account # 376XXXX
Would like accomplished? Get late payment removed 
Late payment reporting where? Experian, Transunion, Equifax
Late date? December 2019 (30 days late)
Why late? Online double payment applied toward balance instead of covering extra month 
Have you tried customer service? Yes, they are not helping.
 
Dear CEO Raul Vasquez,
 
I am reaching out to you because you’re the CEO of Oportun, and your customer service reps aren’t providing good customer service.
 
I had an account with you and I unintentionally messed up a payment online/making me the following month. It was a small error and I never missed a payment. 
 
I made a double payment and I didn’t understand that it would go towards balance and not towards next month. 
 
I ended up getting a late payment for December 2019.
 
I made all my payments on time- and paid my account in full.
 
I am asking a good will as a customer courtesy to remove late payment for December 2019, that is showing on all 3 credit bearus.
 
I am looking to getting more loans with you but would appreciate if you can help me out with this issue I’m having.
 
Thank you for your attention to this letter.
 
 
You can reach me at email:
Cell: 
 
 
 
 

What exactly does this mean?
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello everyone!
 
I am making this post because I am looking for some help brainstorming my next disputes for these two charge-offs. I have gotten these accounts deleted from Equifax and TransUnion, but I have not had any luck getting Experian to cooperate. I wanted to see if the community had any insights on what I might try next. I pulled these from my online Experian dispute portal (I also have the paper copies, but this was easier to upload and is nearly identical). There are so many different philosophies out there about disputing that I thought putting these out there might elicit some ideas I haven't tried.
 
On my paper reports, I have noticed that the balance shows as "not reported," but online it shows a dash where the balance should be. Both of these accounts are settled and I do not owe them any money, so I think a good argument can be made that the account must be reporting a $0 balance in order to be accurate. However, I have already disputed this issue with no success. The other thing I noticed is that BofA shows the full charge off amount was written off ($7,358) whereas Citi reports that $0 was written off. If these are both accounts that I settled with the original creditor that were not sold to debt buyers, then why would they show different numbers here? In addition, the account are not reporting the "disputed by consumer" notice, even though I have already disputed these with both Experian and the banks directly. Do you all have any advice/recommendations? Is there anything I am missing? Citi did send me a letter saying they would update the balance to $0, but that has not happened (and more than 30 days has elapse since then). Thank in advance for any guidance you can provide.
 
 

Since my first store credit card in the summer of 1992 (JC Penney), Experian has used some form of subterfuge to decimate my credit rating with them.
 
Their latest attempt to hornswoggle my credit report is actually frustrating me to the point of driving to their nearest corporate office (Schaumburg, IL).
 
I have disputed items that are both obviously incorrect to the human eye and to the CRA. They verify the items and finish my dispute at 4:09AM.
I request a reinvestigation. They verify it and finish the reinvestigation at 6:12AM.
 
My report is in Special Handling, so I am confused as to why some pissed off Bangladeshi is completing my requests (as evidenced by the time of completion) instead of someone stateside.
 
Nonetheless, I am overnighting 8 separate MOV letters to Experian requesting that they tell me who they spoke to at Montgomery Ward, and why an online catalog store told them I have an unsecured loan with them (when they do not offer such). Or how Gettington can tell me they cannot find anything they shipped to my non-existent address, yet can verify an account with Experian. (to name a few of my grievances).
 
I am simultaneously sending each of the 8 companies a "Hey, can you tell me who you spoke with at Experian" letter. I fully expect all 8 to tell me "WTF are you talking about? Nobody from Experian contacted us."
 
With paperwork in tow, I will find an FCRA attorney to hit them with 8 counts of FCRA malfeasance. I will look to settle with them for emotional damage, the violations, cost of preparing all notices (at $25 an hour) and whatever else is deemed just and proper.
 
At this point, I'm not sure its about getting items removed anymore; it is painfully obvious that Experian (et al.) has a penchant for shoving the proverbial ham candle up the consumer's keister, sans lube, and intends to continue to do so with little (if any) oversight for all of eternity.
 
I am still unsure if I can file action against LexisNexis for freezing my report in accordance with Georgia law (I am a Hoosier), and for referring to me as a female (my wife will verify my manparts if needed).
 
Guess I am looking for input, and possibly some caveats, before firing these letters off.

- Credit "Mix" -
 
Are Co-Branded cards classified as Retail or just another Revolving (CC) account?  My goal is to retain a "Retail or Store card" even though I loath store cards and thus I would choose a Co-Brand over the other if I had a choice.
 
I've noticed that different reporting, scoring and evaluation models/methods categorize accounts differently such as Lines Of Credit (LOC) are sometimes labeled as Revolving, Other, or Loan.
 
I have plenty of (Bank) Revolving CCs and LOCs however, some evaluation comments chastise me as I have no Retail (Store) accounts.  I figured, "OK.  Fine.  I'll get one".  Then I stepped into a pile of muck because of terminology and that's why I mentioned the above varying labels and need CB's member help. Please.
 
In my quest, I saw Target and Macy's have relatively-highly regarded (Retail) Store Credit Cards and as well, they have Co-Branded cards by Master-Card (Target) and Am-Ex (Macy's).  I decided to go for the co-branded cards rather than the dreaded Retail card...  That's when that pile of ignorant muck grabbed my foot and ankle preventing me from moving forward and thoroughly froze my brain - solid.  I'm stuck.
 
Are those co-branded cards classified Bank, Retail or Co-Brand Cards?
 
And yes, Home Depot and Lowes as well as many others have Co-Branded, Retail(?) cards.
 
Thanks in advance for the shared knowledge. 🖕
 

Hello,
new to the forum (glad I found it) , I have a collection agency called Simon's agency which is trying to collect on an already paid debt , I have reported this to the CFPB but I need your advice on how to proceed further.
Any help highly appreciated .

The car loan is through a credit union, and they started reporting my loan as "Included in bankruptcy". I thought the loan was an exemption so I could keep the car after discharge. I'm reading online that credit unions will sometimes refuse to reaffirm the loan. Is there a possibility I could lose my car when my bankruptcy is discharged?
 
I know I shouldn't be stressing, but I like to know possible outcomes so there are no surprises.

hello everyone i would like to get some advise. I went bankrupt 4 years ago due too medical bills and started on a clean slate. me and my spouse brought a house, i have 25k in credit card debt due too fixing to house up everything was going smooth until covid19 hit us financially. i can not afford to keep paying credit card and mortgage payments either one or other. does anybody have any advise on what i should do? i went bk 4 years ago and  i dont know what the best option is thanks.

I was bored so tried the US Alliance CU pre-approval and it came back positive.
 
How solid are their pre-approvals?  I'm surprised that with several INQs, many new accounts and being extremely Egyptian that they pre-approved me.  

Hello, so this is regarding a charge off from a local bank here in San Antonio.
 
My wife had a checking account, she asked the bank to close it-no luck.
 
They never did and some charges got returned but the bank did not pay those charges.
 
They ended up racking up my wife’s checking account to with NSF $540.00!
 
Best way to handle this charge off?

Hi,
 
Applying for a mortgage through 2 separate lenders and they are both able to pull from Transunion and Experian without an issue but they are unable to generate/ pull a report from Equifax. When they try to make a pull they are receiving the attached message "Equifax remark: inquiry information identified as fraudulent by consumer - report not available". Lender is using correct name and address, I'm also able to see my credit report through MyEquifax and third party credit reporting services.
 
Anyone have a clue? I tried calling Equifax multiple times with them saying there are no freezes or locks. I would like to go into contract but this is preventing me from doing so.

This topic comes up all the time so I thought it would be nice to have it in a clear concise thread for those who need it. The steps below will work to remove any public records that are negatively reporting to the Credit Bureaus. Tax Liens, Bankruptcy, Judgements will fall off like magic if you follow the proper steps.
 
Step 1: Freeze LexisNexis
 
I would also recommend obtaining your full file disclosure from them as well so you can see what is actually being reporting on you. You may be surprised how much there is.
 
https://personalreports.lexisnexis.com/access_your_full_file_disclosure.jsp
 
Since LN is one of the ways the CRAs turn to verify public record information, they will not be able to verify using this method if they cannot access your reports. You can do it online at
 
https://www.lexisnexis.com/privacy/for-consumers/opt-out-of-lexisnexis.aspx
 
or Call 888-497-8920 Usually have a decent wait time but it is well worth it.
 
Step 2: Remove all old addresses associated with the Public Record with all 3 CRAs. If the PR is associated to an old address and that address is still reporting then the CRA can verify the PR with your address. In my opinion the most effective way to do this is by Writing a letter CMRR asking the CRAs to remove all old addresses as you are afraid that someone could steal your identity. I would write the addresses you want removed in blue ink that way you can be assured it will go to an actual person for review.
 
Step 3: Freeze the other CRA's There are 3 other smaller CRAs that you need to freeze as well.
 
Innovis is the 4th CRA You may freeze online https://www.innovis.com/securityFreeze/index
 
Sagestream https://www.sagestreamllc.com/security-freeze/Fax Letter with all information to 8583126275
 
ARS type similar letter like you did for Sagestream with all the same info and Fax to 2166157642
 
Once the addresses associated with your Public Records are no longer reporting to the CRAs & you have LN, IN, SS, ARS froze then you can dispute your Public Record with Success using MOV letter.
 
You may also dispute the Public Records with LN but all you need to do is freeze it so they can't use LN to verify. This will also prevent any new PR from reporting.

I have an AMEX charge off from 2017 its paid but I want it off my reports I've called them but the guy on the phone just kept saying nope can't take it off even if paid.
I've even tried disputing them because they were reporting the wrong info but they just update with the right info. 
 
I was able to get approved for a different AMEx card two months ago so I know I'm not blacklisted 
 
I was wondering has anyone had any luck with something like this. 

I won't count cards like JCPenney, because I wouldn't expect them to have chops. 
 
Here they are:
 
Universal City Studios Credit Union Visa credit card 
Go Bank debit card 
American Express Bluebird debit card 
Navy Federal Credit Union Go prepaid debit card 
 
That is all.
 
 
 

I had USAA thanks to my retired Army father.
 
My husband I introduced to USAA but would have qualified on his own for 4 years in the Marine Corps.
 
From what I understand, he doesn't qualify for NFCU but I do.
 
So...should I jump through hoops for this credit union or do you think there is nothing significant gained over USAA??

I still have accounts reporting on EWS and have Chex frozen.
 
I had a major problem with BOA where an employee stole money, opened accounts
and left me owning BOA almost 60K. Nothing I could do about it, the employee had
the proper authorization according to BOA, but not according to the local DA.
 
That was 7 years ago..
 
Previous apps for BOA credit products referenced "prior relationship" as reason for denial.
 
Three days ago I got a pre approval from BOA for a credit card and took the offer. Let's see...
 
Credit card was approved and was invited to open a checking account.
 
Opened account online and got application in process screen. Figured that I would get a
denial and the credit card closed.
 
This morning, two days after opening online got an email saying the account is open.
 
I will make a $1500 deposit today as that is the minimum balance to avoid a service charge
and see what happens.  I will update this thread as more is revealed.
 
This makes two big banks I have got in over the last week.  BOA and Suntrust.
 
 

Hey credit boards, it’s killbadcredit I used to post but took a break. my credit has improved a lot, but I’m about to dispute 2 chapter 13 dismissed bankruptcy. They are from 2013 and 2014, yes they are mine attorney informed me wrong and had to refile that why I have 2.
 
The one from 2013 is about to fail off on October hopefully, how can I dispute other then too old to be on file? Experian actually told me I can’t use that excuse? Any tips 

Does anyone have any idea if I can expect for my mortgage scores to drop after refinancing?
 
Here's my situation:
I signed the loan docs for my refinance just this week. It's supposed to fund on Monday, September 28th. On Tuesday, September 22nd, I put an offer on an investment property that was accepted the following day (Wednesday, September 23rd).  I received a soft pull pre-approval, however I'm waiting until my refinance funds before doing a complete hard pull application, because I don't want any problems with refinance. Should I be concerned that my score is going to drop when my old mortgage is paid off and before my new mortgage is reported? Right now, my middle score is 747 and I don't want to scores to drop before I get pre-approved for my investment property purchase. Should I hurry and apply as soon as I know the loan is funded, so I don't take the risk of my score dropping because of the payoff of the old mortgage? Any of you mortgage gurus have any knowledge, insight or experience with this situation?
 
Thank you in advance!

Just financed new vehicle through GM Financial. Checked contract from purchase and it said MAY have pre payment penalty . Just hit my Experian as new account. How long do I have to wait to refinance?

If this is not the correct forum, if mods would help get it where it belongs I would be appreciative.
 
These are my auto 8 scores. According to Experian, my Auto 8 is now 693 (as of today’s update).
 
I was 580 a month ago. I got a lot of inaccurate and outdated info deleted. I got a secured discover card with $2k balance, a Capital One secured $1k limit, and a Credit One Amex with $300 limit (yeah, I know, but it’s Amex)
 
I gained about 100 points across the board in a little over a month.
 
I have 3% utilization in credit. 3 years perfect hx with car payment.
 
I’m a 1099 employee and want to lease for tax benefits. I like the Mercedes AMG C63 that is roughly $1,000/mo lease.
 
What do I need to do? Will Mercedes accept this with $200k annuAl income? Or do I need to wait for 720 Auto 8 FICO?
 
Other advice or suggestions is appreciated.
 
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just received a letter from an attorney in Virginia. (I don’t live in or near Virginia.) Attached to the letter was a warrant in debt that has a court date and a time for later this month for just under $300. The attorney says that the original is being forwarded to the court for filing.
 
Additionally it has my name (Ex. Tom Jones) on both the letter from the attorney and the warrant in debt paperwork. But the paperwork attached to the Warrant in debt is for my nephew (Ex. Tom Thaddeus Jones) who shares my first name but has always gone by his middle name his whole life which is different. It is his name (Thaddeus Jones) that appears on the signature line of documents, apparently from an apartment he lived in for a year.
I have never lived in Virginia. I never signed any paperwork for him. He lived with me in high school in another state after my brother died but that was 6 years ago.
 
First, is this really service or is the attorney fishing? I'm assuming they meant this for my nephew but the letter just had Tom Jones on it so I opened it. So how does this work? I can’t afford to travel 5 states away for this court date, so do I need to hire an attorney?
 
Second, I did contact my nephew who said he has never heard anything from the apartments complex after he moved out 2 years ago and swears he doesn’t owe them anything. When I went over the paperwork with him,  it seemed that something funny is going on. According to their own documents attached to the warrant, the lease was up on April 15th. He and the apartment manager signed the apartment inspection report on 4/16/2018. 4/16/2018 is listed as the vacate date. The inspection report also says "Rent Responsible Thru 4/16/2018".
What looks suspicious is the Statement of Charges.   First they charged him for rent for 16 days at $999. Then they charge him again for 14 days at $1342. Then they credit him back for 13 days at the higher rate and add $170 for rent for the 17th-20th. They then credit the rent payment my nephew made on his due date which was April 1st . Add to that a $70 late charge? Finally it shows the apartment was re-rented on April 20th.
 
Is it me or is this crazy? Not sure what I need to do at this point and don't know what to tell my nephew.
 
Thanks for any assistance.