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Chexsystems Help

Discussion and help for consumers who have trouble getting a bank account.

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    • Good evening all, I'm hoping to get some pointers on the best way to get a lower interest rate even with my crappy credit, I'll do my best to include all relevant info, but forgive me if I leave something out.  So here's my situation currently.
       
      About a year ago, (Feb. technically), I bought a 2015 Subaru WRX.  The price of the car was $19,999.  But they bullied me into getting every single back-end bell and whistle they offered, telling me my monthly payment would go up if I didn't get the extended warranty and a whole bunch of other bs that I tried fighting with them about, but they just didn't really listen and included it all anyway.  They knew I wanted the car, they knew I had poor credit, so they basically man-handled me.  So I got financed through Flagship Credit Acceptance at a cold hard 21%.  I have made a years worth (roughly) of payments now at a nice $500-$600 (official monthly payment is around $545/month) a month.  Since I got the car, my FICO has gone from a 500 to a 571.  On Credit Karma and similar sites it shows all of my payments being made on time.  (I was a few days late once or twice at the most).  But I'm hoping that this is enough to help me to refinance and get a lower rate so my balance actually diminishes, cause it's quite depressing to see it literally go nowhere pretty much.  My payoff amount is $21,522.31 the NADA value of the car is currently Clean trade in $15,150 and clean retail is $17,225.  I'm not sure which number lenders use in this case.  I have been at my job for 3+ years, I make roughly $50k a year, little less, and this is really the only debt I have besides a couple things in collections that I'm fighting with at the moment maybe about $2k worth.  
       
      The only company I have tried with thus far I believe is OpenRoadLending and I tried back in July and was declined.  Well that's my situation.  I'm really hoping to get some pointers/advice anything to help me get out of 21% hell.  Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for any help.  I appreciate it.
       
      Regards,
       
      Jeff W
      • 5 replies
    • I got a letter from collections on a medical debt and plan to use the HIPPA method. I have a few questions if anyone could help me answer and validate my planned approach :
      Debt Amount  ~ $4,700 Debt is Not showing up on Credit report DOS - Apr 2019 I know I owe the amount to OC but have not validated the debt with CA  
      Planned Approach:
       The debt is not showing up on credit reports so I don't plan to send a letter to CRA  I do owe the amount to OC and plan to pay directly to OC. Should I also send a DV letter to CA?  When using the HIPPA letter template, I do have to insert the State's name. Is this my state of residence or the state where the service was performed.   Should I send the banker's check as a single amount or 4 check's (The bill is for 4 amounts totaling to $4700)  
       
       
      • 3 replies
    • I get my credit score from Experian and they are constantly promoting Experian Boost to add points to your score.  I don't like the idea sharing more information and I'm assuming that it'll only make a difference with lower scores?  Is this true?  My score is 835 now so I don't need a boost but I can't help being curious.  
      Does anyone have a boost they can share?
      • 8 replies
    • Hi, I'm new here and got a notice from a credit agency on my private student loan.  It's been 3 years since I last paid as I was contesting the amount and got sick.  I signed for the loan in D.C. and the loan originated in OH.  I now live in OH.  I also stopped paying while I lived in NY (before I moved to OH).  I just got a letter from a CA based in NY state (don't know if the CA state location makes any difference).  My question is which SOL will apply?  OH, NY or the shorter DC SOL of 3 years?  OH has a number of SOLs, 6 years, 8 years so I'm not sure which SOL would even apply to the promissory note for the bank based in OH.  How could I look this up at a law library.  I'm not very familiar with the process if anyone could help with legal research ideas?  I'm also contesting the validity of the loan because the promissory note states that the repayment period is 240 months and I think I have passed this point.  Any help I can find would help a long way; very stressed out by this situation---there are so many ways this could go---if the CA goes through with a judgment and wage garnishment (I'm disabled and earn a very small part time income) can they revive the judgment every five years for 15 years (OH) even after the SOL expires on the private loan itself (3 yrs DC SOL, 6 yrs NY SOL, 6 or 8 yrs SOL OH)?  I don't know if I should just ignore the CA or write them to dispute this loan (and risk waking the sleeping giant) or wake the sleeping giant with a dispute letter and prepare myself to go to court (have no idea how I would defend myself but would like to dispute amount of the loan, SOL etc).  This all seems very risky.  Can this debt sold to a credit agency be invalid?
      • 16 replies
    • I have 2 loans for car at 5% and education (private) at 8% totallying around 12,000. Upon looking into consolidation loans and/or private bank loans I can not find a loan at less than 7% or 8%.
      My fico is at 770 and will likely go to 800 after a recent dispute. 
      If I use 0% intro rates, this would mean I would need to continue to open new accounts after  each 12 - 16 month 0% intro APR run. 
      Should I use credit cards at 0% to transfer this debt ?
      What are some other options if any? 
      • 14 replies
  • Posts

    • Ok thanks.  I get the idea. We’re looking for under 125k so most a payment should be less than $1000.  Right now between our rent and storage unit, we pay $570.  So a couple hundred more will still fit our budget.   we hope to refinance the Harley. But that’s not a certain at this point.  Also 2 of those cards are small so I’ll be getting rid of $45 this month and hope to eliminate one more when tax return comes back.   Thanks for the help. 
    • If you are referring to this, I hope they'll excuse me for not opening one.    1.6% APY would be lower than all of my savings accounts at bloodthirsty, for-profit banks.  
    • You cannot submit an application to a lender on our system.  Only a limited few in the dealership have access rights.   The bottom of the contract if it is a generic LAW contract will have the assigned lender.   That's why I suggested calling their bluff.  You get to see the numbers and the contract, so you would know who the approving lender is, if you are actually approved.   They can't make you sign anything.   And you don't have to worry about being an A**.   I am used to the bus driving.
    • Actually,  there is no purpose to a DV letter. They have already satisfied the FDCPA by providing the current and original creditors and the amount. They probably won't even respond unless you dispute the debt.
    • If you mistrust what is happening, go somewhere else.    I burned through the first 4-5 places before I got my last car, not because they seemed shady, it was just clear that we weren't going to arrive at agreeable terms (had nothing to do with credit; we didn't even get that far).

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