Lots of updates and new information to vet. 🥴
I'll post the state by state list before merging into a single PDF for credit unions, with bookmarks for each state.
Post any updates, comments or related info about AL CUs.
**The final PDF will refer individuals to the CU website to verify membership requirements.
I'm and 27 and still relatively new to this process, there's no much to learn. I have been trying to build my credit for the last 3 years and it's been a slow-ish process. It was going well until I got sick and my engineering job fired me without notice so my insurance was not invalid.
There is one medical collection that has posted to TransUnion of $308 from Wakefield and Associates. From what I can see on Credit Karma, this collection is not on Equifax.
Experian I can't tell if it is posted there or not. I can see a negative collection from Experience on Discover's Credit Score Card. However, I have an energy bill that was in my name in which half ($53) was unpaid by an old roommate that's still showing 3 years later though it has been paid off since 12/9/16, so it may be that showing as delinquent/collection on Experian. It doesn't show the itemized adverse account list on that platform.
I only requested my annual credit reports for TransUnion and Equifax to have one more to pull if needed during the year. I believe I intended to pull Experian but got mixed up since I had issues with receving them online and had to do by mail.
I also just received the second and last medical collection of $568 in the mail from Account Resolution Services. This hasn't posted to of the CAs yet from what I can tell.
I'm attempting to use the HiPPA process for the $308 dollar collection. But when I went to put in the account number, which is what I did not have from Credit Karma, the CR is still showing the same account number format of 111111**** and I'm assuming that is not a valid account number to place on the dispute form. So now I'm confused.
Can someone please assist me? I'm confused and feel as though I'm missing some vital pieces of information to understanding and executing this correctly since I've been reviewing this process for months and the picture is still not as clear as I would like it to be.
Hello all! I have a few very specific questions about Chex, Tele and EWS. I'm interested in opening a bank account that fits the criteria below. I'm hoping someone knows the answers. Here is a bit of applicable information that will help you answer my questions. I have nothing negative in my past as far as EWS/Chex/Tele. However, I have really bad credit. I currently reside in Florida.
1. I know when your credit report/Chexs/EWS report is pulled by a specific bank; it leaves a record of that in the form of a hard or soft inquiry for 2 years for credit reports and 5 years for Chex/EWS.
Meaning anyone who gets a hold of that report afterwords knows from the "inquiry history" which bank ran a check on me. Does Telecheck have an "inquiry history" on their report as well? I could not find any information online on that.
If the answer is no then I'm ok with opening an account with a bank that does only a Telecheck. But I also wanted to know just in case......I looked at the "pinned threads" which lists which institution runs which check. However, there no information on accepting out of state/area residents. So my question is the following:
2. Are there any banks/CU's outside my state (FL) that will accept FL residents who also do not run any checks (Tele/Chex/EWS/credit report)? I'm ok with online only banks as well in case anyone knows of one that fits my criteria. I'm ok with them verifying my identity using my SS card/DL/passport etc. but I dont want to be ran in the systems mentioned above.
3. Also, I looked at the pinned threads with a list of banks by state. I noticed that a lot of them say sometime along the lines of "they offer second chance checking" but doesn't specify any checks the bank/CU runs. Are these institutions ones that don't run any check if you open a 2nd chance checking or is the information not listed because its not known.
My searchfu doesn't seem to be working well these days as a search just on HSBC only yielded seven threads here...but I remember much discussion in years past,
What is the current consensus on HSBC? Years ago, I had the Weekender card but it went by the wayside when CrapOne entered the picture (I try to avoid their cards at all costs). I was looking to add something else on the Mastercard network to try and even out my balance, and the 3% for the first year for the Cash Rewards card doesn't seem too horrid. It drops to 1.5% after the first year, so it becomes a sock-drawer card at that point. The no FTF fee is worthwhile from the standpoint of other options whilst traveling just because options are a good thing. No annual fee.
Anyone with recent experiences care to chime in and potentially talk me off of the ledge?
I had a credit card with Bank of America that first went delinquent in 2013. It was charged off a year later in 2014. BoA still owns the debt and I have been slowly paying it off every month. It's going to take me at least 3 more years to fully pay off this debt. Later this year will be 7 years since this account first went delinquent. Will this account be removed from my credit report even though it's not paid off? Thanks for the help.
From the MD PUC web site:
(It appears that they do not get involved with billing disputes, collections, or credit reporting)
The Commission is empowered to hear and decide matters relating to: (1) rate adjustments; (2) applications to exercise or abandon franchises; (3) applications to modify the type or scope of service; (4) approval of issuance of securities; (5) promulgation of new rules and regulations; and (6) quality of utility and common carrier service. The Commission has the authority to issue a Certificate of Public Convenience and Necessity in connection with an electric utility’s application to construct or modify a new generating station or high-voltage transmission lines.
First, congratulations on your success with this!!
Second, too many people give up after the first no. Sometimes it takes multiple tries.
Just because a tactic has a relatively low probability of success doesn't mean you shouldn't try!
I am by no means taking your wife's side, nor am I suggesting that your motivations are unjustified.
With that said, I've done post-mortem analyses on both of my failed LTRs.
I didn't realize it at the time, but it was over with Crash Test Dummy with Hair as soon as his student loan payments kicked in and he decided how we were going to manage our finances going forward -- and then informed me.
Don't misunderstand, I was a terrible boyfriend, mostly because I didn't respect him.
He usurped control of the money to give me the 🖕 for being so inattentive and distant, and I didn't try very hard to offer my own financial suggestions because I didn't want to lose the ability to play the victim card when we argued about other things.
The Cuban Who Couldn't Cook, was awful with money and made very little of it -- which is a really bad combo platter.
The first ~5 years were fine, but in the last 3-4 years I was bailing him out every 1-2 months. It wasn't a lot of money ($100 here, $500 there), but empty promises of eventual repayment eroded every atom of trust and respect.
For my half of the blame, I secretly enjoyed the leverage of having a partner who was indebted to me. Shame on me for that.
I really hope you can find a model that works for both of you.
Since 2003, creditboards.com has helped thousands of people repair their credit, force abusive collection agents to follow the law, ensure proper reporting by credit reporting agencies, and provided financial education to help avoid the pitfalls that can lead to negative tradelines.