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VISA MC policies

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Complaints, discussions and rants regarding perceived merchant violations of CCC policy

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    • Hi, I'm new here and got a notice from a credit agency on my private student loan.  It's been 3 years since I last paid as I was contesting the amount and got sick.  I signed for the loan in D.C. and the loan originated in OH.  I now live in OH.  I also stopped paying while I lived in NY (before I moved to OH).  I just got a letter from a CA based in NY state (don't know if the CA state location makes any difference).  My question is which SOL will apply?  OH, NY or the shorter DC SOL of 3 years?  OH has a number of SOLs, 6 years, 8 years so I'm not sure which SOL would even apply to the promissory note for the bank based in OH.  How could I look this up at a law library.  I'm not very familiar with the process if anyone could help with legal research ideas?  I'm also contesting the validity of the loan because the promissory note states that the repayment period is 240 months and I think I have passed this point.  Any help I can find would help a long way; very stressed out by this situation---there are so many ways this could go---if the CA goes through with a judgment and wage garnishment (I'm disabled and earn a very small part time income) can they revive the judgment every five years for 15 years (OH) even after the SOL expires on the private loan itself (3 yrs DC SOL, 6 yrs NY SOL, 6 or 8 yrs SOL OH)?  I don't know if I should just ignore the CA or write them to dispute this loan (and risk waking the sleeping giant) or wake the sleeping giant with a dispute letter and prepare myself to go to court (have no idea how I would defend myself but would like to dispute amount of the loan, SOL etc).  This all seems very risky.  Can this debt sold to a credit agency be invalid?
      • 16 replies
    • I have 2 loans for car at 5% and education (private) at 8% totallying around 12,000. Upon looking into consolidation loans and/or private bank loans I can not find a loan at less than 7% or 8%.
      My fico is at 770 and will likely go to 800 after a recent dispute. 
      If I use 0% intro rates, this would mean I would need to continue to open new accounts after  each 12 - 16 month 0% intro APR run. 
      Should I use credit cards at 0% to transfer this debt ?
      What are some other options if any? 
      • 14 replies
    • Hello Everyone!  I am hoping someone can confirm that I am on the right path. 
      I am in Texas and I have 2 collection accounts with Capital Accounts(based in TN).
       
       
      1. $72 
      2. $380
       
      I sent a debt validation letter to the collection agency and they responded back with a ledger of the services. They are both for dental services from 2013 and 2015.   I believe they have violated a few fdcpa violations but wanted to confirm before I respond.
       
      1. "Interest"- the CA responded stating that the original balances were for $50 and $305. They blatantly state that the additional fees/ amount are for interest. They continue to add on interest, changing the balance by only a few dollars (typically $1-3 depending on the CRA).  They did not send me anything that shows that the original agreement between myself and the dentist had stated that interest would accrue. Is this not a clear violation of FDCPA 807 False or Misleading Representations- I thought that CA is not allowed to add interest to medical debt, unless it was stated in the original agreement with the OC. 
       
      2. HIPAA/ Medical Collections- The OC apparently faxed the collection agency a ledge of what services were done. I never gave authorization.  violation?
       
      3. Stature of Limitations is 4 years for Texas. I know this typically means they cannot sue me BUT do I have any leverage here? Based on the ledger they sent
             (a), current balance is $72, original balance was $52, 04/11/2013 was date of last payment made to the OC by my health insurance and the OC sold it to the CA
             (b), current balance is $380, original balance was $305, 10/13/2015 was date of last payment made to the OC from insurance company, and they wrote it off as bad debt 05/17/2017 and      sold it to the CA.
       
      I am familiar wit the medical collections forum, but wanted to see if  I have valid points when writing a response to the collection agency. 
       
      Thoughts?
       
      TIA!!
      • 18 replies
    • Greeting CB family. straight to the point, I'm looking to purchase my first home within the next 6 month. But I currently have 3 negative accounts listed on my credit report. I tried disputing 2 of the 3 accounts online with the big 3, a year ago with no success. Here are the accounts:
       
      1. GreenDot Bank (Secured Card)
      Open: 1/4/2017: 
      Date updated: 6/19/2018
      Last payment: 3/11/2017
      Status: Charged Off
      Balance: $89
       
      -- I requested to have this account closed in March 2017. But the account was never closed and a annual fee was charged which represent the balance you see. How do i dispute this with Greendot Bank? They are the worse people to deal with. Sample letter(s)?
       
      2. Credit Collection Servic
      Placed for collection: 9/4/2014
      Date updated: 10/25/2019
      Balance: $239
       
      -- This is a old debt from Progressive insurance that I believe I owe. This account is due to be deleted 10/2021. Last i checked Progressive still owns this debt and even was willing to take payment for it over the phone. So should I pay this directly to Progressive? And will CCS have to automatically delete this account sense I will be paying Progressive directly? The amount owed make this worth not fighting over, plus having this negative collection account off my report is worth $239. What do you guys think i should do?
       
      3. Jefferson Capital System
      Placed for collection: 8/1/2017
      Date updated: 12/26/2019
      Balance: $1,520
       
      -- These people are the devil, they claim to own a debt they purchase from Verizon wireless. I've never had an account with Verizon wireless. i tried disputing this online, but it came back verified. They act like they want to help me get this account removed but want me to fill out identity theft forms. I'm not doing that until they show me proof this account even exist. How do I send certified debt validation letters to them? Does anyone have a sample letter? Should that be my next step?
       
      Any and all replies will be helpful. 
       
       
       
      • 15 replies
    • Link:  https://www.marketwatch.com/story/chase-hikes-the-annual-fee-for-its-popular-sapphire-reserve-card-to-550-and-rolls-out-new-perks-2020-01-08
       
      Quote:  "Chase JPM is increasing the annual fee on its popular Sapphire Reserve card, intensifying the ongoing competition with American Express’ Platinum card."
       
      Maybe I'm slow, but how does increasing the cost of a card intensify the competition?  Next, will American Express increase the price of their card to $1,000 to keep up?  Anyway, I wouldn't pay $550 for any card.  The benefits aren't worth it for me.  For $550 I could take a week vacation to Las Vegas if I want (I don't really care for Vegas, but I needed an example).
       
      Anyway, all my annual fee free not-very-fancy cards all work the same at McDonald's like the Sapphire Reserve card.
       
      • 21 replies
  • Posts

    • Probably because most people's first experience with loans instead of credit cards are likely payday type loans. Hard to get a non PDL with no credit history. In this case the woman had her dad co-sign for a regular personal loan.   Generally, secured cards are more effective at rapidly building credit.
    • Be bold with the reimagined American Express Green Card. You could earn 30,000 Membership Rewards points
    • Yesterday I closed my Crate and Barrel MC. Ever since that my Facebook feeds have been covered in Care Credit ads.
    • I am embarrassed to admit I am back on these forums again after many years away.  Being less of a neophyte now, I jumped into my new situation head first.  I had about five collections dating back a few years but still at least two years away from aging off.  I disputed two medical collections with the Whychat method, both disappeared on TU and one disappeared on EX/EQ.  I sent the money order and letter this weekend to clear the other one.  The good news is that's the last collection on any of my reports.  In just a month or so, I also got Comcast, Dish Network, and Portfolio off my reports.     The bad news is my credit is less than stellar.  The good news is I learned my lesson and saved obsessively after my income changed a few years ago.  I am in the position to pay most of this stuff, which brings me to where I need help.  I need a plan of attack moving forward.  I had been burying my head in the sand, putting off buying a house until 2022 when this all ages off.  Towards the end of the year, I realized that's a bad approach and am more actively working to put myself in a better position.  The 5 collections going poof is a great start, but I have charge offs that need to be resolved and feel more permanent.  That's where I need help.   I have a total of 7 chargeoffs that all go back to around the same period in 2014-2015.  3 of them are with Big Bank #1 and range in amounts for 4k to 12k.  The two largest age off in the middle of next year.  The smallest of the three is early 2022.  My current plan is to let the big ones go until the SOL (mid 2020) hits.  From there, I can make some decisions.  Of course, I understand the risks.  Is this a bad idea?   As for the rest, it all ages off by the end of 2022.  So, I've paid or am in the process of paying it all down.  My two accounts with Amex total about 10k and age off the latest.  I have paid both and qualify for the Optima card application as soon as it all processes.  My Barclays account falls off in mid-2022, also.  It was paid through the Portfolio collection referenced in the first paragraph.  A BofA charge off disappearing in early 2022 has been paid off, as well.   So, I am wondering my next move.  I am in a good financial position right now.  I'd like to buy a house.  The market valuations are insane and I am a single guy that can be flexible, so I can be patient but anything I can do to put myself in a better position to pounce sooner seems worth it.  I have a Discover card that survived the mess of the tumultuous years that's paid down.  I recently got a CapitalOne card and will be adding the Amex in the next month or so.  That feels like enough credit for now unless someone suggests otherwise.  I paid off my student loans last year, which ironically tanked my scores a bit.  My current FICO scores (EQ/TU) are 590ish.  My VantageScore on CreditKarma is 690ish for both.  This is all pre paying down the 3 accounts referenced above.  I am assuming all that debt is tanking my utilization, so paying off some of these should bump my score some.  Nonetheless, the spread between the two sets of scores is interesting to me.     The whole debt validation/dispute game confuses me.  How should I approach the charge offs above?  Obviously, the three from Big Bank #1 I won't poke the bear on until the SOL later this year.  The others, though, they are all mine and seemingly correct.  What exactly am I disputing and how persistent should I be?  Is it at all realistic to get these deleted.  I have noticed subtle things like the age/fall off date for the Amex accounts re-age to something horrendous on EX in the last month or so.  So, I guess I could dispute that.  Beyond that which direction should I take.  I am a decent writer and enjoy the challenge.   Appreciate those who made it all the way through this.  Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated.         
    • Good strategy, though she may have to wait 10 years for the personal loan to fall off her reports before getting the best insurance rates.  State Farm once sent me a letter saying that they rate people worse if their first experience with credit was not a credit card.  

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