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Medical Billing & Medical Collections

NOT PAY FOR DELETE! Why Chat's HIPAA dispute method. May require repayment.


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  • Our picks

    • Hello good folks,
       
      Background: last October, Comcast locked my account because *a stranger* (mistakenly) paid for it with a credit card, and later disputed the charge with their credit card company and did a chargeback. Comcast made it so I couldn't use any type of credit/debit cards to pay. It took some give months to even expose this issue, as agents didn't know why my account was locked. I cancelled my account but they still wouldn't let me pay. Eventually, they sent it to collections, which very promptly hit my credit history with a "Collections" derogratory record.
       
      Unfortunate timing, because I'm in the market right now for a mortgage. Without this note, my credit history is close to perfect, with FICO8 of 835+, and VantageScore3 of 810+.  With this, the scores drop to about 710 and 760 respectively. Meaning, either mortgage denial or higher interest rate, leading to huge sums wasted.
       
      My questions are:
      1) What is the best way to get this rectified and get this record off my history?  
                  - Is it possible to do a "pay for delete"?  
                  - Should I be talking to Comcast or to the collections agency?  
                  - Is there something I need to to in the interim, like disputing the record?  
                  - What would be the fastest way to deal with this? Ideally, I want to apply for a mortgage in the next week if possible. If not possible, in the next 3-8 weeks.  
       
      2) Are there particular mortgage lenders that use a more favorable scoring so this one single negative record doesn't hurt my mortgage rate?  
                  - My understanding is, FICO8 has this 120+ point drop for the first negative record, while other scores (like VantageScore3) doesn't drop so dramatically. Is this correct?
       
      Thank you very much in advance.
      • 61 replies
    • So my DH had a Citi/Best Buy card that was charged off in 2017. After beginning our credit repair process, I noticed the account was reporting the payment history inaccurately on Equifax and Experian. We disputed many times, then ended up suing them for FCRA violations. They settled the case by forgiving the debt and deleting the account from all reports.
       
      But now they’re back! In 2020, they sent us a 1099-C for an amount just a little bit shy of the balance. I believe it was just the principal balance, which amounted to $4,600. Well, as you know, it’s tax season. And who decides to send us another 1099-C for the same account/debt? Titty bank. They put the full amount of the debt this time; which was about $600 more than the first 1099-C they sent.
       
      I have consulted my lawyer because it seems illegal for them to write off the same debt twice. He has advised we should sue them again. While I’m sure we can win the case, litigation and settlement takes about a year to do, based on our past experiences. It ended up costing us an extra $1,200 in taxes this year. What do y’all think? Should we spend more time and effort on this situation? I’m pretty sure Titty also violated terms in our settlement agreement for the FCRA case as well, in regards to them not pursuing further collection activity.
       
      Any advice would be appreciated.
      • 24 replies
    • I have come across a credit topic involving data point information that concerns AmEx's D* policy (which no longer exists) which triggered and raises an important question that may be of interest to anyone who has an AmEx credit card in their relationship history with AmEx.

      This is to give credit and courtesy to an excerpt from the @cashnocredit post...
       
       
      "I had an Amex in 1974, which closed in the early 80s. Opened a new one in 2011 but they didn't backdate me then. Had no record of it (which was always paid on time)."
       
      Question? 
       
      Does AmEx have all your previous applications and cards approved and store all positive and negative data indefinitely?
       
      • 42 replies
    • I decided to continue another year of my glorified spreadsheet. 2022 was a disappointment in the shenanigans dept. Most of the dive hotels I stay at did remodels during the pandemic. Not too many WTH moments. Disciplining myself to go under 5/24, allowed me to add a Chase CSP and CFU to the mix in 2022. The various dumpster dive apps I use paid off. To the tune of about $2000 in value.
       
      Inflation being what it is, I'm more hyper sensitive than ever on what spend goes on what card, to maximize spend multipliers.
       
      Credit Cards:
      Amex Gold & Every Day MR 441,390
      Amex Delta SkyMiles 205,415
      Citi MileUp MC American Airlines 69,345
      FNBO Amtrak Guest Rewards MC 135,948
      Chase CSP / CFU Signature Visa UR 101,559
      Chase IHG Traveler MC 66,064
      BofA Customized Cash Rewards Visa (3% Travel) $0.88
      Citi Double Cash MC (2% CB / TYP Everything) 21,186
      Citi Premier MC Thank You Points 34,280
      Choice Privileges Visa Signature 360,660
      WF Active Cash Signature Visa (2% CB Everything) $87.44
       
      Shopping Portals and Apps / Stacking Opportunities:
      DOSH (CB) $18.56
      Rakuten Amex MR Earning. Pays out quarterly. Points Pending: 6857
      Fetch Rewards (GC) 27,439 Points
      Ibotta (CB or GC) $7.65
      Upside (CB or GC) $14.15
      CoinOut (CB or GC) $8.65
      Payce (CB) $18.97
      Receipt Hog (CB or GC) 3156 Coins
      Receipt Jar (GC) 2013 Points
      Receipt Pal (GC) 4725 Points
      Shell Fuel Rewards (Earning AA Miles 2miles/gal.)
      Starbucks / Delta SkyMiles (Earn 1 SkyMile for every $1 spent at Starbucks)
      AA Simply Miles
      Airline / Hotel Dining and Shopping Portals
       
       
      • 135 replies
    • Hi Everyone!
       
      I have one last bad account, unfortunately a repo, that is still on my Experian and Equifax reports. Before Experian changed their report format, at some point last year the repo account said "on report until April 2023." Well, it's April and it's still showing. Could it be until the END of April? Would it be worth calling Experian's backdoor number and asking about it? Maybe sweet talking them to delete it early? lol
       
      What do you guys think? In comparison, this account was scheduled to drop off my Transunion report in January and was gone in December. Equifax is the worst and it show dropping from the report in July. 
       
      Thanks guys!
      • 15 replies
  • Posts

    • What cards can we look at to rebuild credit, normally I would google but you can’t rely on internet alone.   Right now only Experian is clean but she has a score of 578 Fico 8?, I believe.    Maybe one that will report to all 3 credit agencies, help.    She already had  capital one, first premier, Credit one. Any tips would be welcome, trying hard to build our credit to buy a home soon.
    • Plus, you're deferring costs an average of ~2 weeks, which is also a positive.
    • Personally, I don't get wound up about the precise best time to pay a credit card. When I rotate through my sock-drawered cars (small purchases every three to four months) I pay them off immediately. To try to time it for things show a precise balance, it's not worth the bother. Any balance you're trying to show on your credit report will change next month (either to zero or something else). Not worth it to me. Making sure your credit cards are paid on time should be your number one goal.  
    • I sent the HIPAA dispute letter to TU and Experian about a month ago. I've received a response from TU and from UCB. Nothing back from Experian yet, even though tracking shows the letter was delivered on September 1st. Ran my Experian report today and the collection is still there.    TU's response was: Investigation Results - Verified as Accurate. They just list the hospital and balance. UCB's letter is as follows:   Regarding Creditor:  xxxxx  xxxxx Medical Center UCB Reference number: 7xxxxxxxx Account Balance: $900   To Whom it may concern,   Please review the enclosed information that you requested regarding the above mentioned account. If you have any questions regarding this information, call our office at the telephone number above.    With this letter, they included a Medical Center statement, dated 09/06/23. It has an account number. It also lists several transactions from March 2022 along with their procedure codes and charges. It lists my insurance at the bottom, with 0 credits (I have a very high deductible). It also shows a total due of $900.   I really am not sure how this works, but it sounds to me that since this hospital statement was generated after the collection showed up on my credit report, that the hospital still owns the debt.  Can I possibly still negotiate with the hospital?  
    • My compulsive self got to me and I applied for a Varo Bank spending account. Easy enough. They sent me a debit card. For some reason, doing ACH pulls for me have been limited to $100, then I need to wait a few days before doing another, but no biggie. It's not like I needed the account. Maybe they'll eventually increase that.   After about a week my compulsive self got to me again and I applied for their Varo Believe "credit card." Their webpage says I must have a direct deposit (like a payroll deposit) totaling $500 in the last 90 days. I never did that, but there was a link on their website, and app, saying I'm prequalified (maybe because my credit score very high). To open the bank account, they don't do a ChexSystems hard inquiry, and for the Believe Card, there is no credit hard inquiry. Since I haven't applied for any other credit card in a while, I went ahead. The deal with the credit card, it's designed for people who have issues getting a credit card (poor credit or no credit). It's a secured card. It's so secure, that when you make a purchase the amount in the secured savings account (that earns no interest) is no longer available until you pay the card (which gets deducted from the same account and can be done automatically). For all intents and purposes, it's a debit card, but reports to the credit bureaus. The amount of your limit is what you transferred into (or out of) the secured savings account from your bank account. Once I created the account, I transferred $100, that must be done from the app, not the website. My limit is $100, unless I add more. There are no fees for this card. The Believe card should be arriving within a week or two.    Do I need the card? Nope, but it looks like a nice card in the picture. Vanity is everything.     
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