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  • Our picks

    • Hello good folks,
      Background: last October, Comcast locked my account because *a stranger* (mistakenly) paid for it with a credit card, and later disputed the charge with their credit card company and did a chargeback. Comcast made it so I couldn't use any type of credit/debit cards to pay. It took some give months to even expose this issue, as agents didn't know why my account was locked. I cancelled my account but they still wouldn't let me pay. Eventually, they sent it to collections, which very promptly hit my credit history with a "Collections" derogratory record.
      Unfortunate timing, because I'm in the market right now for a mortgage. Without this note, my credit history is close to perfect, with FICO8 of 835+, and VantageScore3 of 810+.  With this, the scores drop to about 710 and 760 respectively. Meaning, either mortgage denial or higher interest rate, leading to huge sums wasted.
      My questions are:
      1) What is the best way to get this rectified and get this record off my history?  
                  - Is it possible to do a "pay for delete"?  
                  - Should I be talking to Comcast or to the collections agency?  
                  - Is there something I need to to in the interim, like disputing the record?  
                  - What would be the fastest way to deal with this? Ideally, I want to apply for a mortgage in the next week if possible. If not possible, in the next 3-8 weeks.  
      2) Are there particular mortgage lenders that use a more favorable scoring so this one single negative record doesn't hurt my mortgage rate?  
                  - My understanding is, FICO8 has this 120+ point drop for the first negative record, while other scores (like VantageScore3) doesn't drop so dramatically. Is this correct?
      Thank you very much in advance.
      • 61 replies
    • So my DH had a Citi/Best Buy card that was charged off in 2017. After beginning our credit repair process, I noticed the account was reporting the payment history inaccurately on Equifax and Experian. We disputed many times, then ended up suing them for FCRA violations. They settled the case by forgiving the debt and deleting the account from all reports.
      But now they’re back! In 2020, they sent us a 1099-C for an amount just a little bit shy of the balance. I believe it was just the principal balance, which amounted to $4,600. Well, as you know, it’s tax season. And who decides to send us another 1099-C for the same account/debt? Titty bank. They put the full amount of the debt this time; which was about $600 more than the first 1099-C they sent.
      I have consulted my lawyer because it seems illegal for them to write off the same debt twice. He has advised we should sue them again. While I’m sure we can win the case, litigation and settlement takes about a year to do, based on our past experiences. It ended up costing us an extra $1,200 in taxes this year. What do y’all think? Should we spend more time and effort on this situation? I’m pretty sure Titty also violated terms in our settlement agreement for the FCRA case as well, in regards to them not pursuing further collection activity.
      Any advice would be appreciated.
      • 24 replies
    • I have come across a credit topic involving data point information that concerns AmEx's D* policy (which no longer exists) which triggered and raises an important question that may be of interest to anyone who has an AmEx credit card in their relationship history with AmEx.

      This is to give credit and courtesy to an excerpt from the @cashnocredit post...
      "I had an Amex in 1974, which closed in the early 80s. Opened a new one in 2011 but they didn't backdate me then. Had no record of it (which was always paid on time)."
      Does AmEx have all your previous applications and cards approved and store all positive and negative data indefinitely?
      • 42 replies
    • I decided to continue another year of my glorified spreadsheet. 2022 was a disappointment in the shenanigans dept. Most of the dive hotels I stay at did remodels during the pandemic. Not too many WTH moments. Disciplining myself to go under 5/24, allowed me to add a Chase CSP and CFU to the mix in 2022. The various dumpster dive apps I use paid off. To the tune of about $2000 in value.
      Inflation being what it is, I'm more hyper sensitive than ever on what spend goes on what card, to maximize spend multipliers.
      Credit Cards:
      Amex Gold & Every Day MR 441,390
      Amex Delta SkyMiles 205,415
      Citi MileUp MC American Airlines 69,345
      FNBO Amtrak Guest Rewards MC 135,948
      Chase CSP / CFU Signature Visa UR 101,559
      Chase IHG Traveler MC 66,064
      BofA Customized Cash Rewards Visa (3% Travel) $0.88
      Citi Double Cash MC (2% CB / TYP Everything) 21,186
      Citi Premier MC Thank You Points 34,280
      Choice Privileges Visa Signature 360,660
      WF Active Cash Signature Visa (2% CB Everything) $87.44
      Shopping Portals and Apps / Stacking Opportunities:
      DOSH (CB) $18.56
      Rakuten Amex MR Earning. Pays out quarterly. Points Pending: 6857
      Fetch Rewards (GC) 27,439 Points
      Ibotta (CB or GC) $7.65
      Upside (CB or GC) $14.15
      CoinOut (CB or GC) $8.65
      Payce (CB) $18.97
      Receipt Hog (CB or GC) 3156 Coins
      Receipt Jar (GC) 2013 Points
      Receipt Pal (GC) 4725 Points
      Shell Fuel Rewards (Earning AA Miles 2miles/gal.)
      Starbucks / Delta SkyMiles (Earn 1 SkyMile for every $1 spent at Starbucks)
      AA Simply Miles
      Airline / Hotel Dining and Shopping Portals
      • 164 replies
    • Hi Everyone!
      I have one last bad account, unfortunately a repo, that is still on my Experian and Equifax reports. Before Experian changed their report format, at some point last year the repo account said "on report until April 2023." Well, it's April and it's still showing. Could it be until the END of April? Would it be worth calling Experian's backdoor number and asking about it? Maybe sweet talking them to delete it early? lol
      What do you guys think? In comparison, this account was scheduled to drop off my Transunion report in January and was gone in December. Equifax is the worst and it show dropping from the report in July. 
      Thanks guys!
      • 15 replies
  • Posts

    • They must have the same suppliers as the Diners Club folks.
    • Types of Checks: Cashier's check: This is a check guaranteed by the bank that issues it, not the account holder. Banks issue cashier's checks in exchange for cash or a withdrawal from the account holder's account. Certified check: This is a personal check that the bank has verified sufficient funds exist to cover the amount. The bank stamps the check "certified" and deducts the amount from the account holder's balance. Teller's check: This is similar to a cashier's check but is issued by a bank teller for a smaller amount. Official check: This term can be ambiguous without context. It could be a check issued by a government agency, a business, or even an organization like a university. Without further details, it's difficult to determine what type of check it is. Bank check: This term is also unclear without additional information. It could refer to a check drawn on the bank itself, a cashier's check, or another type of check issued by the bank. Association check: Similar to "official check," this term needs further context to understand its meaning. It could be a check issued by a professional association, a trade union, or other type of membership organization.
    • Understanding the Different Terms Drawn On vs. Payable At: Drawn on: This refers to the bank where the account holder has their funds. The check instructs this bank to deduct the amount from the account holder's balance and transfer it to the recipient. Payable at: This refers to the bank where the check can be presented for payment. It doesn't necessarily have to be the same bank the account is drawn on. Some banks allow checks drawn on other banks to be cashed at their branches, but they may charge a fee for this service.
    • Cleaning house, I found an account agreement from Coast Federal Bank from around 1996.  I had a checking account there, see, and I would've happily been one of those real-life customers in the TV commercials rhapsodizing about what a swell place it was to do your banking at.  It got eaten by Home Savings, then Washington Mutual, so now Chase etc... but anyway I was digging the account agreement (to be charmed by the historic "fees") and found this:   The following checks will be available on the first business day after the day of your deposit:  If your deposit is made in person to an employee of Coast Federal Bank; Checks made payable to you which are checks drawn on or payable at Coast Federal Bank; checks drawn on a Federal Reserve Bank or Federal Home Loan Bank; U.S. Postal Money Orders; California state and local government checks; cashier's, certified, teller's, association, official or bank checks; U.S. Treasury checks.   Questions: 1) How could there be a difference between "drawn on" Coast Federal Bank and "payable at" Coast Federal Bank?  How could a check be "payable at Coast Federal Bank" if it wasn't drawn on them? 2) Who the heck draws checks on a Federal Reserve Bank?  I thought the FRB's roles were kinda to provide banking services for the banks; not for folks 3) OK, I know what cashier's checks, certified checks, and teller's checks are; not sure what kind of power the word "official" has without more specifics (I believe there are children in possession of "official" Jack Armstrong Decoder Rings, for instance), also not sure how the phrase "bank check" gets anything done, and am completely at sea with regard to what an "association check" could possibly be.     (Yes I know this is all from 1996 and therefore the terms might have no relevance today; but that's exactly why I'm asking.  I'm charmed by the history of it.  (In fact I opened my account at their branch in an historic yes HISTORIC building on Montgomery Street in San Francisco; even thought the one at Jackson and Polk was closer.*))                                 *You heard me,    
    • Any general advice on how to do a recon?  Part of my "strategy" for winning a recon from PNC was to call them on Friday, figuring people would just be in better spirits because Friday   except work was insanely busy for me on Friday so I didn't even get a chance to call them.   The advice I've read says, unsurprisingly, to not be combative (duh) and be ready with reasons why you think approval is actually warranted.  In my case, PNC rejected me for one reason only:  "Number of revolving accounts." Not delinquencies (1 30-day late from five years ago), not utilization (I've been denied decades ago because "excessive [or 'sufficient'] utilization of revolving credit"), not excessive inquiries, not number of accounts opened in the past 24 months; just "Number of accounts."   I feel like I can address specific concerns they might have about the most recent accounts by pointing out that I've never owed $200 on my Verizon Visa, having opened it solely because having that card lowers my phone bill every month.  Meaning to me it's not a plastic pass to go nuts at Best Buy; it proves me instead as someone who does all he can to optimize his cash flow.  (Same is true of the BMO card, also showing a zero-to-low balance, because I use it to get 5% back on streaming, 3% on gasoline.  Cash back; not "spending power.")  I furthermore wonder if I could dress up those explanations by segue-ing from "This shows I optimize my finances" into "I was looking forward to PNC being a part of that!!  {4% back on gasoline means they defeat BMO, 3% at restaurants vies with Sapphire Preferrred.  (I am tugging at PNC's heartstrings, see.))     
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