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    • Greeting CB family. straight to the point, I'm looking to purchase my first home within the next 6 month. But I currently have 3 negative accounts listed on my credit report. I tried disputing 2 of the 3 accounts online with the big 3, a year ago with no success. Here are the accounts:
      1. GreenDot Bank (Secured Card)
      Open: 1/4/2017: 
      Date updated: 6/19/2018
      Last payment: 3/11/2017
      Status: Charged Off
      Balance: $89
      -- I requested to have this account closed in March 2017. But the account was never closed and a annual fee was charged which represent the balance you see. How do i dispute this with Greendot Bank? They are the worse people to deal with. Sample letter(s)?
      2. Credit Collection Servic
      Placed for collection: 9/4/2014
      Date updated: 10/25/2019
      Balance: $239
      -- This is a old debt from Progressive insurance that I believe I owe. This account is due to be deleted 10/2021. Last i checked Progressive still owns this debt and even was willing to take payment for it over the phone. So should I pay this directly to Progressive? And will CCS have to automatically delete this account sense I will be paying Progressive directly? The amount owed make this worth not fighting over, plus having this negative collection account off my report is worth $239. What do you guys think i should do?
      3. Jefferson Capital System
      Placed for collection: 8/1/2017
      Date updated: 12/26/2019
      Balance: $1,520
      -- These people are the devil, they claim to own a debt they purchase from Verizon wireless. I've never had an account with Verizon wireless. i tried disputing this online, but it came back verified. They act like they want to help me get this account removed but want me to fill out identity theft forms. I'm not doing that until they show me proof this account even exist. How do I send certified debt validation letters to them? Does anyone have a sample letter? Should that be my next step?
      Any and all replies will be helpful. 
      • 8 replies
    • Link:  https://www.marketwatch.com/story/chase-hikes-the-annual-fee-for-its-popular-sapphire-reserve-card-to-550-and-rolls-out-new-perks-2020-01-08
      Quote:  "Chase JPM is increasing the annual fee on its popular Sapphire Reserve card, intensifying the ongoing competition with American Express’ Platinum card."
      Maybe I'm slow, but how does increasing the cost of a card intensify the competition?  Next, will American Express increase the price of their card to $1,000 to keep up?  Anyway, I wouldn't pay $550 for any card.  The benefits aren't worth it for me.  For $550 I could take a week vacation to Las Vegas if I want (I don't really care for Vegas, but I needed an example).
      Anyway, all my annual fee free not-very-fancy cards all work the same at McDonald's like the Sapphire Reserve card.
      • 21 replies
    • So my TransUnion score is about 60 points lower than the others. On the 3rd party sites that give me my score, they mention a derogatory account being the reason so I pulled my report and there are no derogatory accounts. 
      I called TransUnion and they were no help, trying to get me to buy something. 
      So here I sit, decided to buy my TransUnion score directly from them, found it to be 9.95, 19.95 and 24.95. The lower prices are displayed but then when I log in to buy, the other prices disappear and they want 24.95 
      Starting to feel a bit bullied. 😡
      Any idea why my score would reflect a derogatory mark but my report does not?
      • 12 replies
    • Hello Everyone,
      Happy New Year to all! Question for some pros. I disputed a Verizon Wireless collection account on all 3 CRA's. The usual "verified" thing happened on TRANS and EXP but, it was removed for EQ. 
      The question is, am I able to dispute again with TRANS and EXP stating that the account was removed on EQ simple and plain? If so, do I just dispute and say TL was inaccurate and removed from EQ and should have been removed on all 3, please remove?
      Thanks in advance!
      • 30 replies
    • Well, I exceeded an established limit set by a lender, 48.00 bucks and change.  Notice arrives referencing the delinquency having with an offer to remedy the default. Irksome is wording that implies the outstanding amount due is an amount to make the balance $0.00. While due really is a minimum payment 78.00 bucks even. 
      Someone with a better working knowledge of those laws regarding language, syntax, technicalities of painting, respond with insight including an answer to this question could the lender be on the hook for misrepresenting the amount, or some other infraction?
      To date, the account is open, no notice received of account closure wherein then the whole amount is due. 
      • 11 replies
  • Posts

    • read that UBS caps annual expenses for investment clients at $500 and that the AF for this card is included in that cap. That makes the card a little more interesting...
    • I love it! Shows it pays to read the fine print and get creative.   This is going to cost the mortgager more than the interest payments to service and escrow property tax. If I were them I'd forgive the rest of the loan and close it. But it's likely you are sui generis and the bureaucracy will likely do nothing. Now if there were thousands doing this clever hack, that could change.
    • When I posted this I had actually repaid all but the last $565.49, which I purposely left unpaid to see if I could do a 24.7-year installment loan hack with the help of another recast.     The recast is now complete, the plan (mostly) worked, and I've written about the experience in a new thread.
    • When we set out to repay our mortgage early, we faced the very real possibility of never having another open installment trade line on our reports.   So I decided to turn our soon-to-be-retired mortgage into an ultra-low-balance, open installment trade line to carry us through June of 2046 (or until we sell the house, whichever comes first).   In the process we ended up with a $2.80 mortgage payment.   To Replicate:   Step 1: Get a mortgage (or start with one you already have).  Step 2: Pay almost all of it off. Step 3: Have your balance recast (re-amortized over the remaining loan term).   Tips and Thoughts:   Check with your servicer for their terms and requirements; these comments are based on how ours works.   Recasts can only be initiated at the same time as an additional principal payment of $5,000+ is made. Recast requires a one-page form with original signatures, and generally takes 2 payment cycles to go into effect... but the timing isn't guaranteed. There is no cost. The P+I payment that is due each month doesn't change until the entire process is complete.   My original goal was to get the payment at or below $0.99/month, but pushing the principal balance too low would have created the risk of having the balance fully repaid in the event of a processing delay. In hindsight I should stopped having our taxes paid through escrow when the recast was initiated.  Our P+I payment plus 1/12 of the annual taxes pushes our "payment" to an amount that is greater than the loan balance.  This triggers a phone call each month from an agent who's very excited to walk me through the process of making my final mortgage payment... which is the opposite of what we want.     Exhibit A - Recast Agreement Excerpt:     Exhibit B - January 2020 Mortgage Statement Excerpt:      
    • I’m located Michigan I won’t be able tell when it was gotten before tomorrow going court house get copies of judgment n complaint 

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