GoEagles

Listen to this! In November of 2006, I was the victim of severe identity fraud. HSBC, Juniper Bank, Citibank and USAA were all involved. The perp basically took out hundreds of dollars from my HSBC Union Plus card, and then used a bad check from a Citibank account of mine to cover his tracks. At the time before then, I had only used the card once for a cash withdrawal for $60. In November, the person took out about $1,300 or so. I sent in an affidavit of fraud and filled out a police report as requested by everyone. I contacted HSBC, sent them the information, etc. So recently, this actually happened again, but only with Citibank and USAA, but this time they caught the blue shirt, and I am sure he did this before, but no have proof of this. I recently applied for a Best Buy MasterCard and was denied because of too many recent inquiries. I called HSBC and told them it wasn't me that was making the inquiries, but the person who stole my identity applying for accounts and CLIs. He was actually able to call and have my address changed so that he could have new cards sent to him after canceling the cards I had in my wallet. With this information, HSBC gave me the card for a wonderful limit of $300. No more than 2 hours later, HSBC Fraud department gets on the phone and tells me that the "spending habits" of taking out $1,300 over 2 days in November 2006 matches my previous "spending habit" of $60 in March of 2006. She also goes that I supposedly called HSBC that same day and spoke to someone (which I didn't) etc., and even though they know the check was fake and bounced, and that Citibank knew it was a fake check, they said they didn't need sense when they had facts in front of me since the same PIN was used in March and in November. How I don't know, can they give out PIN numbers over the phone, I have no clue, but I only used that PIN once. They wouldn't give me the number for the Executive Office, but gave me the mailing address of some P.O. Box in Salinas, CA. Obviously, I am ticked off. This is crazy, I canceled my Orchard Bank card today, will cancel my Best Buy MasterCard when it comes and the new Mastercard I do not want at all. The Best Buy store card is next. Do not do any business with HSBC, they are horrendous! Does any have an Executive contact?

I would say keep the Simplicity card. I don't think you can even apply for that card any more, plus it has no fees whatsoever, can't beat that. The new Citi Amex Platinum is pretty and shiny.

If you really want to save some money, get rid of those two credit cards you have. Rewards66 and Tribute will just bleed you dry with fees. With all of the fees you pay, you could get get a decent secured credit card such as Hooters Mastercard, Citibank, Bank of America or National City, or hell even Orchard Bank.

Hello All, I think I may have a small dilemma here and hopefully someone can help. Recently, I have been the victim of identity theft. Someone I know was able to call Citibank, Juniper and USAA and have a number of things changed, including SSN, Mother's Maiden name and more importantly, address. Now these addresses are listed as valid previous addresses. Experian won't dispute them online and I haven't called them yet, or TU or EQ for that matter, but I feel as though I might get the same response from that I got from EX online "We only report information that data furnishers give us and can't dispute this, etc". How can I correct this? Even better,l I puled a report today and now EQ has my previous address, not my current one. Any suggestions?

I can verify that this strategy works. I had the HARDEST time with the people at First Consumer's National Bank. After finding out somehow that three different subsidiaries of FNNI were collecting on the debt, I was able to get some nice email addresses of some people and had a deletion in less than 24 hours.

I soon as I saw SST/CB&T, I paid off my account. They place a hold on your account for 10 days for any payments over $200. So crazy. I closed my account as well. The credit line was only $750 anyway.

I HAD this card, and I would stay away if I were you. They took 10 weeks to return my deposit.

I don't know if it is easier for approval in store, but I wouldn't apply for the same card in store right after I got denied online. You got a lot of store cards already why not get yourself another visa or mastercard. I thought this would happen to me, but I went online to apply for the Gap and had EX pulled on me, and then thought, well go to the store and get an approval. They pulled EQ and got denied instantly because I just got denied. Wait 60 days and then go into the store with a card that has 6 months history! Good luck!

Trust me, you are better off without it. The interest rate is HORRIBLE and there really isn't a guarantee that it will turn into a VISA at all.

NC is a tough one. With a high score in the 700s on TU they said no with one lateness. NC is highly recommend around here because they aren't one of those secured cards with really high fees like some are and easy to get no matter what your credit history is, unlike secured cards from BofA, Capital One (invite only), CitiBank and Wells Fargo.

Yes. I am sure in the T&C you got when you received the card, somewhere buried in there you gave them the right to call for payment. Better to call and negotiate, rather than ignore them.

Over 600K? WOW! Who is most of your credit with? They never call you about F/R?

Not an expert, but I would imagine that if you have a court order for her to pay them, you need to enforce that. If it was a joint account, or you were the authorized user, you aren't responsible for the debt. Secondly, CAs don't have to respond to your request in 15 or 30 days or any time frame, they are not required to respond to any dispute in any specific amount of time like the CRAs. Send a second DV, rack the violations and then sue!

I've got 19 21 and 19 inquiries! lol There is someone on here with 55 inqs, on EX of all places! They won't see any *B* for 25 months!

Also, if others didn't know, they still charge you the $3 for two billing cycles or so while they close out your account, so try to have your account at a $6 credit OR be prepared to lose $6 from your $250 plus interest, if they give you any. I forget.