Hello, I am 35 yrs old and have done nothing to protect or invest in my credit history or score. As a few weeks ago I changed my attitude in direction with this behavior and have since paid of a debt and even pulled my credit report at annualcreditreport.com. Now I am looking for ways to build credit and how to obtain it. Do I open accounts or etc?? This is very difficult because I am currently in the mid 530-590 score and I doubt helps. Please advise if you have been in the same situation. (Note: I have a car payment stil which I been late 4 times in 2.5 years) Thank you all in advance.
Cleaning my credit history & raising my credit score
Started by
surcast
, Apr 12 2012 02:16 PM
10 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 12 April 2012 - 02:16 PM
#2
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Posted 12 April 2012 - 02:18 PM
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#3
Posted 12 April 2012 - 02:47 PM
Cliff Notes version:
1. Opt out (optoutprescreen.com)
2. Delete old addresses from credit reports (difficult or impossible to do with Experian). Usually OK to do this online.
3. Delete unnecessary personal info from credit reports (phone numbers, driver's license numbers, employer info). Can be done before #2, but either way I prefer to do this separately. Usually OK do do this online.
4. Use 1-2 punch, starting with collection accounts that are the smallest and/or closest to SOL. These are generally easiest to remove because the CA is least likely to care about them. DV the CA, even if it's not within the 30 days, then use Jack Attack on the CRAs. Try to limit letters to the CRAs to 2-3 line items per letter. ALWAYS use CMRRR for all correspondence related to this. NEVER do this online.
5. If any CA comes back and verify, offer to pay for delete. Never just offer to pay off the line item.
6. If in the process of all of the above you get calls/letters from CAs, send DV letters and if already on your CRs, do 1-2 punch.
7. If you have lots of bad line items, start B*. Works better the more bad items you have.
8. Only at this point, while 4 through 7 have been well underway, try to apply for more credit.
Try not to move on to the next step until you have resolution from previous steps. Try not to have overlapping requests to CRAs. Yes, this takes time. It is worth it.
1. Opt out (optoutprescreen.com)
2. Delete old addresses from credit reports (difficult or impossible to do with Experian). Usually OK to do this online.
3. Delete unnecessary personal info from credit reports (phone numbers, driver's license numbers, employer info). Can be done before #2, but either way I prefer to do this separately. Usually OK do do this online.
4. Use 1-2 punch, starting with collection accounts that are the smallest and/or closest to SOL. These are generally easiest to remove because the CA is least likely to care about them. DV the CA, even if it's not within the 30 days, then use Jack Attack on the CRAs. Try to limit letters to the CRAs to 2-3 line items per letter. ALWAYS use CMRRR for all correspondence related to this. NEVER do this online.
5. If any CA comes back and verify, offer to pay for delete. Never just offer to pay off the line item.
6. If in the process of all of the above you get calls/letters from CAs, send DV letters and if already on your CRs, do 1-2 punch.
7. If you have lots of bad line items, start B*. Works better the more bad items you have.
8. Only at this point, while 4 through 7 have been well underway, try to apply for more credit.
Try not to move on to the next step until you have resolution from previous steps. Try not to have overlapping requests to CRAs. Yes, this takes time. It is worth it.
#4
Posted 12 April 2012 - 05:15 PM
First of all thank you JV01 for your input.
I checked out the optoutscreen.com and Im curious if that is something that I will benefit from?? dont I want to be offered these by creditors or insurers to make firm (preapproved / prescreened) offers of credit or insurance??
Also I got a bit lost here:
4. Use 1-2 punch, starting with collection accounts that are the smallest and/or closest to SOL. These are generally easiest to remove because the CA is least likely to care about them. DV the CA, even if it's not within the 30 days, then use Jack Attack on the CRAs. Try to limit letters to the CRAs to 2-3 line items per letter. ALWAYS use CMRRR for all correspondence related to this. NEVER do this online.
-Surcast
I checked out the optoutscreen.com and Im curious if that is something that I will benefit from?? dont I want to be offered these by creditors or insurers to make firm (preapproved / prescreened) offers of credit or insurance??
Also I got a bit lost here:
4. Use 1-2 punch, starting with collection accounts that are the smallest and/or closest to SOL. These are generally easiest to remove because the CA is least likely to care about them. DV the CA, even if it's not within the 30 days, then use Jack Attack on the CRAs. Try to limit letters to the CRAs to 2-3 line items per letter. ALWAYS use CMRRR for all correspondence related to this. NEVER do this online.
-Surcast
Cliff Notes version:
1. Opt out (optoutprescreen.com)
2. Delete old addresses from credit reports (difficult or impossible to do with Experian). Usually OK to do this online.
3. Delete unnecessary personal info from credit reports (phone numbers, driver's license numbers, employer info). Can be done before #2, but either way I prefer to do this separately. Usually OK do do this online.
4. Use 1-2 punch, starting with collection accounts that are the smallest and/or closest to SOL. These are generally easiest to remove because the CA is least likely to care about them. DV the CA, even if it's not within the 30 days, then use Jack Attack on the CRAs. Try to limit letters to the CRAs to 2-3 line items per letter. ALWAYS use CMRRR for all correspondence related to this. NEVER do this online.
5. If any CA comes back and verify, offer to pay for delete. Never just offer to pay off the line item.
6. If in the process of all of the above you get calls/letters from CAs, send DV letters and if already on your CRs, do 1-2 punch.
7. If you have lots of bad line items, start B*. Works better the more bad items you have.
8. Only at this point, while 4 through 7 have been well underway, try to apply for more credit.
Try not to move on to the next step until you have resolution from previous steps. Try not to have overlapping requests to CRAs. Yes, this takes time. It is worth it.
#5
Posted 12 April 2012 - 05:24 PM
Thank you JV01 for your input first of all.
But what did you mean by:
4. Use 1-2 punch, starting with collection accounts that are the smallest and/or closest to SOL. These are generally easiest to remove because the CA is least likely to care about them. DV the CA, even if it's not within the 30 days, then use Jack Attack on the CRAs. Try to limit letters to the CRAs to 2-3 line items per letter. ALWAYS use CMRRR for all correspondence related to this. NEVER do this online.
Also, dont I want to to include my name on lists used by creditors or insurers to make firm (preapproved / prescreened) offers of credit or insurance??
-Surcast
But what did you mean by:
4. Use 1-2 punch, starting with collection accounts that are the smallest and/or closest to SOL. These are generally easiest to remove because the CA is least likely to care about them. DV the CA, even if it's not within the 30 days, then use Jack Attack on the CRAs. Try to limit letters to the CRAs to 2-3 line items per letter. ALWAYS use CMRRR for all correspondence related to this. NEVER do this online.
Also, dont I want to to include my name on lists used by creditors or insurers to make firm (preapproved / prescreened) offers of credit or insurance??
-Surcast
Cliff Notes version:
1. Opt out (optoutprescreen.com)
2. Delete old addresses from credit reports (difficult or impossible to do with Experian). Usually OK to do this online.
3. Delete unnecessary personal info from credit reports (phone numbers, driver's license numbers, employer info). Can be done before #2, but either way I prefer to do this separately. Usually OK do do this online.
4. Use 1-2 punch, starting with collection accounts that are the smallest and/or closest to SOL. These are generally easiest to remove because the CA is least likely to care about them. DV the CA, even if it's not within the 30 days, then use Jack Attack on the CRAs. Try to limit letters to the CRAs to 2-3 line items per letter. ALWAYS use CMRRR for all correspondence related to this. NEVER do this online.
5. If any CA comes back and verify, offer to pay for delete. Never just offer to pay off the line item.
6. If in the process of all of the above you get calls/letters from CAs, send DV letters and if already on your CRs, do 1-2 punch.
7. If you have lots of bad line items, start B*. Works better the more bad items you have.
8. Only at this point, while 4 through 7 have been well underway, try to apply for more credit.
Try not to move on to the next step until you have resolution from previous steps. Try not to have overlapping requests to CRAs. Yes, this takes time. It is worth it.
#6
Posted 12 April 2012 - 05:25 PM
Thank you JV01 for your input first of all.
But what did you mean by:
4. Use 1-2 punch, starting with collection accounts that are the smallest and/or closest to SOL. These are generally easiest to remove because the CA is least likely to care about them. DV the CA, even if it's not within the 30 days, then use Jack Attack on the CRAs. Try to limit letters to the CRAs to 2-3 line items per letter. ALWAYS use CMRRR for all correspondence related to this. NEVER do this online.
Also, dont I want to to include my name on lists used by creditors or insurers to make firm (preapproved / prescreened) offers of credit or insurance??
-Surcast
But what did you mean by:
4. Use 1-2 punch, starting with collection accounts that are the smallest and/or closest to SOL. These are generally easiest to remove because the CA is least likely to care about them. DV the CA, even if it's not within the 30 days, then use Jack Attack on the CRAs. Try to limit letters to the CRAs to 2-3 line items per letter. ALWAYS use CMRRR for all correspondence related to this. NEVER do this online.
Also, dont I want to to include my name on lists used by creditors or insurers to make firm (preapproved / prescreened) offers of credit or insurance??
-Surcast
#7
Posted 12 April 2012 - 06:38 PM
Beginner's Credit Information
Look at the stickies for the "1-2 punch flowchart" thread
Read, read, read and have patience and that 500 score will turn into an 800 score with time.
Look at the stickies for the "1-2 punch flowchart" thread
Read, read, read and have patience and that 500 score will turn into an 800 score with time.
#8
Posted 16 April 2012 - 12:03 PM
Thank you Jaybee, I am definitely reading and doing lots of research to raise my credit.
The only thing that most of this creditors have is wrong information. For instance, my home address records and times are not consistant. I lived there for sure but a long time ago and the time frames are incorrect.
i dont know if that makes any difference or not, but just curious if it does.
The only thing that most of this creditors have is wrong information. For instance, my home address records and times are not consistant. I lived there for sure but a long time ago and the time frames are incorrect.
i dont know if that makes any difference or not, but just curious if it does.
Beginner's Credit Information
Look at the stickies for the "1-2 punch flowchart" thread
Read, read, read and have patience and that 500 score will turn into an 800 score with time.
#9
Posted 26 April 2012 - 02:50 PM
Does any one know a good vendor/website to help with credit report & credit score?
I am currently using Identity Guard and was wondering if another one is better thant this?
I am currently using Identity Guard and was wondering if another one is better thant this?
Thank you Jaybee, I am definitely reading and doing lots of research to raise my credit.
The only thing that most of this creditors have is wrong information. For instance, my home address records and times are not consistant. I lived there for sure but a long time ago and the time frames are incorrect.
i dont know if that makes any difference or not, but just curious if it does.
Beginner's Credit Information
Look at the stickies for the "1-2 punch flowchart" thread
Read, read, read and have patience and that 500 score will turn into an 800 score with time.
#10
Posted 26 April 2012 - 02:50 PM
Does any one know a good vendor/website to help with credit report & credit score?
I am currently using Identity Guard and was wondering if another one is better than this?
I am currently using Identity Guard and was wondering if another one is better than this?
Thank you Jaybee, I am definitely reading and doing lots of research to raise my credit.
The only thing that most of this creditors have is wrong information. For instance, my home address records and times are not consistant. I lived there for sure but a long time ago and the time frames are incorrect.
i dont know if that makes any difference or not, but just curious if it does.
Beginner's Credit Information
Look at the stickies for the "1-2 punch flowchart" thread
Read, read, read and have patience and that 500 score will turn into an 800 score with time.
#11
Posted 26 April 2012 - 03:56 PM
I lot of people (myself included) recommend USAA Credit Check Monitoring Premium (CCMP). They give 3 FAKO scores (not FICO) and you can check and update your report everyday from the CRAs (most important feature). It's around $12 a month, but after 2-3 months you can call and see if you are eligible for their reduced rate of $6 month. You don't have to be a member of the military to join, anyone can sign up.
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