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Car issue


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15 replies to this topic

#1 Saturngoddess

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 04:44 PM

Ugh. So, last year we were going to drive hubby's car to Texas, so we took it to our trusted mechanic (he's nice, but takes FOREVER to do a job). Apparently, one cylinder in our 2000 Hyundai Accent is dead. This was last April..

So, hubby has another problem with Accent - check engine light is on - (this happened about 4 or 5 months ago - maybe less). We took it to Hyundai, and they told us the EGR valve needed to be replaced - well, at $622. we decided to put it off, since the car seemed to be running fine. Unfortunately, now we need a smog check, and I don't think the car is gonna pass without the EGR valve working. Let me also say - Hyundai did not say a word about the engine's cylinder being dead either. I don't know if that is good or bad LOL.

So... now we are here, less than a year later, and smog is up, take car into our trusted mechanic who still says the engine is pretty much unrepairable. Dude - last time you said the car wouldn't last 1900 miles, and it has gone above and beyond that. He won't do anything on the car until the engine is rebuilt. The car isn't worth that :-(.


The car only has 4 cylinders and we haven't noticed ANY loss of power (granted, the car didn't have alot to begin with LOL). Is there any way this could be fixed without rebuilding? New rings or whatever.


We just don't have the money to support car payments right now, and our credit is not good since I've been unemployed. We do have my car, but it has 131k on it (still runs great though). I don't know what to do.... I say just get rid of it, but I'd like to think it's repairable, without $$$$$$. If we keep it, we have to get it smogged, and it won't pass (well, I'm assuming it won't pass - it didnt pass last time till I took it to hyundai and they did something on it - can't find that paperwork.


Any suggestions?



#2 jgill84

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 05:10 PM

If there were a dead cylinder you would most def notice/feel it. Car would have a really bad vibration, esp on a 4 cylinder car. I know in NC it wont pass with the check engine light on. Honestly I would get a 2nd opinion.If the hyundai dealer would have felt a dead cylinder they would have told you... Hoping to cash in on a big repair bill

#3 Saturngoddess

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 05:28 PM

If there were a dead cylinder you would most def notice/feel it. Car would have a really bad vibration, esp on a 4 cylinder car. I know in NC it wont pass with the check engine light on. Honestly I would get a 2nd opinion.If the hyundai dealer would have felt a dead cylinder they would have told you... Hoping to cash in on a big repair bill



See, that's the thing. We don't feel anything different. I can floor the dang thing and still have it have some get up and go. Nothing different is going on.

So, I should take it to the Hyundai dealer and have them fix the EGR valve? Would you mention the cylinder problem? Our mechanic has always been good (expect for the fact he takes forever). He doesn't charge us to diagnose the car, so it's not like he's gonna lie.

#4 unleashedfury

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 09:04 PM

EGR is a emissions control device. It controls NOx. so no your car won't pass the SMOG test due to excessivley high Oxides of Nitrogen.

A dead cylinder on such a small car would be very noticeable. and almost always spits a service engine light for a misfire code in the dead cylinder.

I would get another opinion but don't say anything about the vehicle being diagnosed at other shops. And see what they say,

As far as diagnostic charges go. A 15 minute diag charge I would take a hit on if I am getting a 4k engine job

#5 dawniedawn67

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 10:30 PM

Do you have an Auto Zone or Advance Auto where you are? They'll do a diagnostic check for free if your Check Engine light is on.

I have a Kia (same as a Hyundai pretty much) and the check engine light comes on every so often. According to the dealer, as long as it's not flashing it's not an emergency.

I'd definitely try to get a 2nd opinion.

#6 Saturngoddess

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 12:42 AM

Do you have an Auto Zone or Advance Auto where you are? They'll do a diagnostic check for free if your Check Engine light is on.

I have a Kia (same as a Hyundai pretty much) and the check engine light comes on every so often. According to the dealer, as long as it's not flashing it's not an emergency.

I'd definitely try to get a 2nd opinion.



Actually, they won't anymore (at least here in CA). I did buy a code reader and it gave me two codes (nothing to do with engine misfirings though. I got a PO441 and PO442. The 442 I learned is the gas cap. The 441 - Purge valve solenoid. I reset the Check engine light and I'm going to buy a new gas cap tomorrow. If I drive it enough and the code doesn't come back on, it should be good to go. If I can just get it through smog, then we can make other arrangements before it dies (like retiring it to the state of CA - which I can't do till July). Then I can get at least $1000 towards a down for a better car (and hopefully improve the credit and get a job in the meantime).

#7 radi8

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 01:39 AM

Don't reset it right before you go for the emissions check, they'll make you come back, lol. They'll want to see a certain number of drive cycles to validate the emissions operation.
Might check Rock Auto (www.rockauto.com) for the EGR valve if you need one. Dealer parts are sky-high.

If you had a cylinder miss you'd know it. Bad idle, shaking, rough acceleration... you'd hear the dead cylinder pulse missing in the exhaust. It has a distinct sound sorta like a farm tractor lol, pretty hard to miss. You'd also probably have a flashing CEL or at very least a misfire code and/or bank(x) too rich code stored.

Purge valve solenoid is usually a cheap part. Your car has a closed fuel system with a charcoal canister to catch gasoline vapors. When you start the car the purge valve opens momentarily to allow the engine to suck the stored vapors out of that canister and burn them. Having a leaky gas cap upsets that sealed system so it trips the light too.

The flashing check engine light means something has happened to endanger the catalytic converter. Often it's a misfiring cylinder. It doesn't mean your car is about to keel over, rather that you are about to be stuck with a large converter replacement bill.

#8 gamecockcountry

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 08:20 AM


Do you have an Auto Zone or Advance Auto where you are? They'll do a diagnostic check for free if your Check Engine light is on.

I have a Kia (same as a Hyundai pretty much) and the check engine light comes on every so often. According to the dealer, as long as it's not flashing it's not an emergency.

I'd definitely try to get a 2nd opinion.



Actually, they won't anymore (at least here in CA). I did buy a code reader and it gave me two codes (nothing to do with engine misfirings though. I got a PO441 and PO442. The 442 I learned is the gas cap. The 441 - Purge valve solenoid. I reset the Check engine light and I'm going to buy a new gas cap tomorrow. If I drive it enough and the code doesn't come back on, it should be good to go. If I can just get it through smog, then we can make other arrangements before it dies (like retiring it to the state of CA - which I can't do till July). Then I can get at least $1000 towards a down for a better car (and hopefully improve the credit and get a job in the meantime).



The gas cap may have just been loose. But if you have tightened it and it still happens then it may be time for a new one. I'd probably get one from Hyundai though. I've had a couple of friends who bought gas caps off the shelf of autozone, pep boys, etc and got check engine lights.

#9 mk_378

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 09:59 AM

EGR codes don't often require replacing the valve itself. More likely the exhaust passages leading to / from the valve are clogged and cleaning them out restores proper operation.

Edited by mk_378, 06 March 2012 - 10:01 AM.


#10 Saturngoddess

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:30 AM

Thanks. Actually, it wasn't the EGR valve, it is the purge valve solenoid. Hyundai wants $622. to replace this along with a diagnostic module? WTH is a diagnostic module?

Anyway - is this part easy to replace? Cause I'd do it myself over giving the Hyundai people $$$ to do it for me. I'll also get a gas cap at Hyundai :-).


I'll have my scanner with me, so I can make sure the system is in "Ready mode" before I take it to be smogged. I'll be doing some driving today - up to Laguna -turn car off - back to Seal Beach etc. I really hope this works :-)

#11 mk_378

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 11:41 AM

Thanks. Actually, it wasn't the EGR valve, it is the purge valve solenoid. Hyundai wants $622. to replace this along with a diagnostic module? WTH is a diagnostic module?

The purge solenoid is a little plastic valve typically mounted on the firewall. It is easy to replace (and should not be an expensive part). Again, it is often a peripheral problem rather than the valve itself. Make sure everything is hooked up first. Often the rubber hoses deteriorate or get eaten by rodents. There should be a schematic on a sticker on the underside of the hood.

#12 Saturngoddess

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 05:08 PM

UPDATE:

Even though I didn't replace either the gas cap or the PCV, the car PASSED smog today!!!! I'm so freaking happy I could jump for joy!!

The mechanic who told me my engine was dying said it wouldn't pass smog - I kinda wanted to go back and mention that I passed, but I need him for my car, so I kept it in check LOL!!!! It is blowing blue smoke out the back (hubby mentioned it when I came to visit him the other day in my quest to "ready" the system, but as long as it passed smog, we can hopefully retire it in July and get the $1k for it to use towards another car.

That's my excitement for the day!!

#13 mk_378

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 05:15 PM

Blue smoke means that it is burning oil. Keep an eye on the oil level (with the dipstick) because if you let it run out of oil, the engine is totally not going to go any more. When the "oil" light comes on, it is already too late. You might consider 20W50 oil, the "you need a new motor" motor oil. It is thicker so it takes longer to escape from worn parts and burn.

#14 Saturngoddess

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 10:45 PM

Blue smoke means that it is burning oil. Keep an eye on the oil level (with the dipstick) because if you let it run out of oil, the engine is totally not going to go any more. When the "oil" light comes on, it is already too late. You might consider 20W50 oil, the "you need a new motor" motor oil. It is thicker so it takes longer to escape from worn parts and burn.



We replace the oil pretty much every 1500 miles or so. It never goes 3000 miles now :-(. Thanks for the info about that oil. We've been using Mobil One - I'll have to check and see if they have that weight. If not, hopefully I can find it.

#15 Saturngoddess

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Posted 09 March 2012 - 03:08 PM

LOL. Last night, the CEL came on again. I'm like - It already passed smog, don't really care anymore. LOL..

Hopefully, this job I am looking for is going to pan out for me, so that hubby and I can carpool to work. Saves on gas and everything else.

#16 radi8

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Posted 09 March 2012 - 05:34 PM

We replace the oil pretty much every 1500 miles or so. It never goes 3000 miles now :-(. Thanks for the info about that oil. We've been using Mobil One - I'll have to check and see if they have that weight. If not, hopefully I can find it.



Mobil 1 is super oil, but I'm not sure it's worth the money in your situation. At this point I'd get the cheapest 20/50 I could find and use it.




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